TN: Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Liesse d'Harbonville 1996

Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Liesse d’Harbonville 1996:
This was an eye-opening Champagne. Brought it to dinner at MF Sushi in Buckhead last night. Exceptionally vibrant nose, aromas include tropical fruits, citrus peel and candied ginger. The first few sips reveal a wine with wonderful acidity and excellent competency. Apricots, peaches, smoke and toasted nuts seem to make the loudest noise, but what really stands out is the acidity. This wine has acid that can blast through almost any kind of cuisine, in our case it was fantastic next fresh wasabi, ponzu and delicate white fish. Everything about the wine (fruit, structure, length) seems fragile, restrained, even feminine, save the brilliant zip of acid. One thing to add however, I think this wine may be as revealing now as it ever will be. The next year to eighteen months should represent the best drinking window, IMO. For now though this is really nice. 92 points

Absolute STAR of an evening at the Hollywood Bowl earlier this year. All sold out…DRAT!!!

John,

Nice note. I’m still not sure exactly where this wine is headed and agree with you that it may not get better than it is today, but it also could surprise as both the 1988 and 1990 are still quite young. I’ve been waiting for them to settle down and still haven’t seen any signs. The acidity is very sharp as you note, but it is still a very tasty wine and completely different from the rest of the range.