A report from another interesting tasting I attended earlier this year! As we don’t get that much US wine here in the EU - especially small-production Napa Cabs - every vertical tasting of Napa Cabs is an really opportunity I wouldn’t like to miss!
I guess I don’t need to write anything meaningful about Philip Togni here, as I suppose many of you forumites know the producer better than I do. Nevertheless, the winery has a reputation of making great, ageworthy and quite old-school Napa Cabs, which was one of the key reasons I wanted to attend the tasting. Although some of the vintages we tasted were a bit too “Napa Cab” (in the modernist sense) for my taste, as a whole I did not get disappointed. Especially the 2000 vintage was honestly as much a proper claret as any grand vin from an old-school Bordeaux château!
And, as almost always, we had some extra blinds and non-blinds before and after the tasting proper.
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2019 Christophe Pichon St. Joseph Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (4.2.2022)
A blend almost entirely of Marsanne (95%) with a tiny bit of Roussanne (5%). Aged for 10 months in 0-3 yo oak barrels.
Luminous peach color. Juicy, sweetly-fruited and almost tropical nose of apricots, some ripe pear, a little bit of honeydew melon, light creamy notes of oak, a hint of sweet oak spice and a touch of apple sauce. The wine is broad, full-bodied and slightly oily on the palate with ripe, sweet-toned and somewhat tropical flavors of peach, some juicy nectarine, a little bit of savory oak spice, light sweet notes of apple sauce, a hint of mango and a touch of apple peel bitterness. At first the wine feels a bit flabby with a lot of gras, but the moderately acidity comes in on the backbeat, lending the wine good sense of balance and structure. The finish is ripe, juicy and somewhat sweet-toned with flavors of nectarine, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of chalky bitterness, light creamy oak tones, light woody notes of savory exotic spices and a touch of apple sauce.
This was a rather broad, voluptuous and ripe-fruited Saint-Joseph, but ultimately surprisingly balanced and harmonious for one. At first the wine was just super-rich and tropical, but that was due to the ripe, sweet-toned fruit overwhelming the acidity at first. Once the acidity joined in, the wine turned out to be much more balanced and enjoyable, although showing quite a bit of gras, typical of warmer-vintage Northern Rhône whites. An enjoyable wine from the weightier end of the spectrum, more likely to show its best now, in its youth than with age. Priced according to its quality at 19€.
(89 points) -
NV Soutiran Champagne Grand Cru Perle Noire Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4.2.2022)
Blanc de Noirs made with 100% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru vineyards in Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims. Based on 2012 vintage with older reserve vintages in the cuvée. 18% of the base wine was aged in old oak barrels sourced from Burgundy. Bottled on May 21st, 2014 and aged sur lattes for 5,5 years. Disgorged on October 14th, 2019. 12,5% alcohol, dosage 7,5 g/l. Total production 5375 bottles.
Medium-deep straw yellow color. Rather toasty nose with complex aromas of chopped nuts, some bready autolysis, a little bit of bruised apple, light woody notes of savory oak and a faint red-toned hint of cherry or ripe raspberry. The wine is rich, broad and moderately toasty on the palate with flavors of bruised apple, some autolytic notes of toasted bread and slivered almonds, a little bit of marzipan, light chalky mineral tones, a sweeter hint of ripe Golden Delicious apple that gets boosted by the richness from the dosage and a touch of savory wood spice. The mousse feels soft and persistent, the acidity quite high and very balanced. The finish is long, dry-ish and complex with layered flavors of chalky minerality, some mealy apple tones, a little bit of chopped nuts, light autolytic notes of brioche and yeasty French bread, a hint of bruised apple and a darker-toned touch of cherry.
A harmonious, very balanced and moderately toasty Blanc de Noirs where all the elements seem to fit wonderfully together: autolytic toast and nuttiness, classic BdN notes of bruised apples and cherries, quite bright acidity and a balancing streak of chalky minerality. Although the dosage showed a bit more than I would've wanted it to, this was probably the most "textbook Blanc de Noirs" in our lineup of four different 2012 BdNs. Although I favor freshness and lower dosage, this ultimately turned out to be my favorite because the overall character was closest to what I'd expect in a classic BdN (although only an inch above 2012 Hebrart Noces de Craie). Enjoyable stuff - while drinking mighty well right now, this will continue to improve for years more.
(93 points) -
2012 Philipponnat Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (4.2.2022)
Blanc de Noirs made with Pinot Noir sourced exclusively from Grand Cru and 1er Cru vineyards in Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Montagne de Reims - even though the wine is labeled "only" as Champagne. Vinified in vats with partial MLF and oak barrels without MLF. Aged sur lattes for approximately 5 years. Disgorged in September 2018. 12% alcohol, dosage 4,5 g/l. Total production 40793 bottles.
Pale lemon yellow color. Somewhat restrained nose with bright aromas of red apples, some autolytic notes of brioche, a little bit of leesy yeast, light nutty notes of slivered almonds, a creamy hint of rich custard character and a subtle touch of crunchy red-toned fruit. The wine is dry, ripe and silky on the palate with bright, dry flavors of red apples, some autolytic notes of bread or brioche, light juicy notes of yellow fruits, light marzipan tones and a creamy hint of leesy character. The mousse feels quite subdued and silky but also very persistent, whereas the acidity comes across as moderately high. The overall impression is fine-tuned and silky smooth rather than crisp and firm. The finish is dry, smooth and lengthy with balanced flavors of mealy yellow apple, some chalky mineral tones, light crunchy notes of fresh, spicy red apples, light leesy notes of yeast, a hint of custard and a nutty touch of slivered almonds.
A dry yet silky-smooth Blanc de Noirs that is more about finesse and suave overall character rather than power or emphasized toasty character. The wine is very accessible and approachable with no rough edges or anything that would stick out. A very reliable and thoroughly well-made effort. However, I prefer my BdNs with a bit more power, weight and toasty character, which is why this wine didn't manage to leave any lasting impression. I found it very enjoyable but ultimately perhaps a bit too predictable and lacking in character.
(91 points) -
2012 A. R. Lenoble Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs Bisseuil - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (4.2.2022)
100% Pinot Noir from 1er Cru vineyards in Bisseuil. Aged partially (35%) in oak for a few months. Bottled in early 2013, 12,5% alcohol, dosage 5 g/l.
Medium-deep to subtly reddish peach-yellow color. Very open, sweetish and creamy nose with aromas of vanilla custard, some ripe citrus notes, a little bit of sweet tropical fruit, light chalky mineral tones, a hint of creamy oak, a touch of leesy yeast and a whiff of savory wood spice. The oak influence is quite noticeable here. The wine is dry, firm and crisp with flavors of creamy oak, some vanilla custard, a little bit of leesy yeast, light notes of something metallic, hints of ripe lemony citrus fruits and juicy yellow fruits and a touch of chalky bitterness. The persistent mousse feels very crisp, firm and intense. The finish is long, crisp and zippy with rich flavors of creamy oak, some leesy notes of yeast, a little bit of fresh red apple, light vanilla custard notes, sweet hints of exotic yellow fruits and a touch of citrus zest.
This was a bit odd Blanc de Noirs; it was structurally very dry, crisp and zippy - especially for a BdN - but at the same time aromatically surprisingly rich, sweet and oak-driven. There were lots of creamy oak notes and vanilla custard flavors, and the typical Champagne fruit notes had a sweeter and rather exotic character to them. The crisp structure and rich, sweeter-toned flavors were a bit at odds against each other, making the wine feel a bit all over the place without that much focus. Furthermore, there was a vague metallic taste that peeked through the fruit at times, taking a small toll on the overall enjoyment as well. All in all, a somewhat weird experience for a Blanc de Noirs. Quite good in its own way, but not really in my wheelhouse.
(88 points) -
2012 Marc Hébrart Champagne Grand Cru Noces de Craie Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (4.2.2022)
"Wedding of Chalk". 100% Pinot Noir from 5 different parcels in Aÿ (Chauffeur, Cheuzelles, Longchamps, Pierre-Robert and Pruche), averaging 45 years old. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, bottle-aged for approximately four years from early 2013 until disgorged in 2nd of May 2017. Dosage 5 g/l. Served blind.
Quite pale lemon-yellow color. Somewhat restrained and fine-tuned nose with rather dry aromas of mealy yellow apples, some bready autolytic character, light floral notes of white flowers, a little bit of leesy yeast, a hint of chalk dust and a touch of bruised apple. The wine is ripe yet firm and dry on the palate with harmonious flavors of juicy red apple, some fresh white peach tones, a little bit of incisive steely minerality, light autolytic notes of custard pastry, a candied hint of white gummy bears and a touch of nuttiness. Quite silky and gentle overall feel, thanks to the moderately high acidity and medium-fizzy mousse. The finish is ripe, juicy and balanced with long, dry flavors of fresh white peach and ripe red apple, some incisive notes of steely minerality, a little bit of leesy yeast, light sweeter notes of apple sauce and an autolytic hint of brioche.
A very harmonious and silky Champagne that shows the typical Blanc de Noirs characteristics of ripe fruit and power. However, instead of being particularly toasty, autolytic or nutty, the emphasis here is on vibrant fruit and finesse. What's surprising, though, that this wine seemed somewhat less nutty and autolytic than the bottle that I tasted 4,5 years ago - the only difference between these bottles was that this bottle was aged sur lattes for four years and kept for another 4,5 years in a cellar, while the previous bottle was aged sur lattes for three years and kept in a cellar for only a year. If anything, I would've expected this wine to be the one with more nutty and autolytic notes, but whaddaya know, things turned out the other way around. Live and learn! Nevertheless, this is still a fine and eminently enjoyable Blanc de Noirs with real class.
(93 points) -
2011 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 14,5% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Deep, dark and only very slightly translucent purplish-red color. Quite open and rather ripe yet still surprisingly Bordeaux-like nose with layered aromas of juicy blackcurrants, some plummy tones, a little bit of herbaceous leafy character, light inky tones, a hint of tobacco, a touch of brambly blackberry and a whiff of alcohol. The wine is quite juicy and slightly warm on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants and succulent dark fruits, some blueberry jam, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tobacco and a hint of leafy greenness. The overall feel is silky smooth but also a bit soft, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and ripe, polished medium-plus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is ripe, rich and juicy with flavors of ripe blackcurrants and sweet plummy fruit, some savory wood spice, light smoky notes of toasted oak, a little bit of earth, a hint of gravelly minerality and a herbaceous touch of leafy greenness.
A rather old-school Napa Cab with a markedly Bordelais character - although a bit on the ripe side, the wine shows nevertheless great intensity with a nice, subtly herbaceous touch that contrasts nicely with the juicy cassis-driven fruit. However, compared to other vintages that were tasted, this wine had a surprisingly soft structure, which made the wine feel very accessible, but also a bit underwhelming in character and perhaps not promising that much on the aging potential. However, seeing how very youthful the wine still is, after 10 years of aging, it's quite obvious that this wine is still on its way up and it is not going to go on a decline anytime soon. Fine, well-made stuff. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(89 points) -
2010 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 14% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Dense, dark and fully opaque plum-purple appearance. Sweetish and surprisingly restrained nose with light aromas of fresh blackcurrants, some leafy notes, a little bit of brambly blackberry, light herbaceous notes of cooked bell pepper, a hint of licorice and a touch of asphalt. With some air the nose starts to slowly open up and flesh out. The wine is dense, chewy and full-bodied on the palate with ripe, slightly sweet-toned flavors of juicy plums and blackcurrants, some licorice, a little bit of roasted bell pepper, light inky tones, a glossy hint of toasty oak spice and a woody hint of pencil shavings. The overall impression is quite muscular and tightly-knit with the high acidity and firm, assertive tannins. The finish is dry, ripe and rather grippy with long flavors of sweet blackcurrants, some fresh dark plums, a little bit of savory oak spice, light inky tones, a hint of licorice and a herbaceous touch of roasted bell pepper.
An excellent, quite savory and rather structure-driven Napa Cab that has a slightly Bordeaux-like streak of herbaceous character running through from the nose all the way to the aftertaste, but otherwise is pretty much true to its place of origin with its ripe, very juicy and slightly sweetish fruit. The overall feel is slightly closed and although the wine slowly opens up with air, the overall feel still remains a bit reticent, making me think this wine isn't really open for business at the moment. It is still very youthful and vibrant in taste, and based on the tightly-knit structure, it feels like this wine was built to age for decades, not for years. At +10 years of age this wine is still far from ready and I'd say it still needs at least another decade to perform really well - even if the wine is pretty darn impressive and tasty already. I have no idea how far away the wine is from its absolute peak, but it's obvious that if one wants to taste this wine at its apogee, it's going to take time - but I'm completely sure it'll be worth it. Expect the score to go up as the wine ages.
(93 points) -
2009 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 14,5% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Dark, quite inky and almost fully opaque blackish-red color. Sweetish, somewhat evolved nose with aromas of wizened dark fruits, some pruney notes, a little bit of strawberry, light sweet notes of toasty oak spice, a hint of blueberry and a touch of boysenberry jam. The wine is ripe, silky and somewhat sweet-toned on the palate with rich flavors of black cherries, some wizened dark fruits, a little bit of savory wood spice, light toasty notes of cocoa, a hint of jammy blackcurrants and a touch of raisiny fruit. The overall impression is somewhat mellow and rather soft, thanks to the slightly modest acidity and ample but also very ripe and gentle tannins. The finish is ripe, somewhat warm and a bit mellow with round, sweetish flavors of blackcurrants and almost overripe dark plums, some savory wood spice, a little bit of boysenberry jam, light toasty notes of cocoa and a hint of bilberry. The high alcohol starts to show more towards the end of the aftertaste.
This was the first vintage in our vertical tasting that tasted more like Napa Cab than Bordeaux-inspired Cab. The fruit department here was noticeably on the ripe side that emphasized the sweeter flavors, whereas structurally this was probably the softest vintage we tasted. Although the wine doesn't feel particularly tertiary, the soft structure and the sweet-toned fruit flavors verging on pruney don't give that much promise in regards to the cellaring potential. Unlike the surrounding vintages 2010 and 2008, which seemed like wines built for the really long haul, this came across as an earlier-maturing vintage that is surprisingly close to its peak at the moment. All in all, this was an enjoyable Napa Cab, but quite unlike most of the more "old-school"-styled Togni Cabs we tasted: this was softer, sweeter and showing a bit more oak influence - and thus not really in my wheelhouse.
(88 points) -
2008 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 14% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Dark, somewhat extracted and almost fully opaque blackish-red color. Savory, spicy and still pretty youthful nose with intense yet a bit restrained aromas of licorice, some ripe blackcurrant, a little bit of fresh dark plum, light woody notes of cedar, a hint of tobacco, a sweeter touch of juicy black cherry and a whiff of baking spices. The wine is ripe yet dry and firm on the palate with a silky texture, full body and intense flavors of licorice root, sweet black cherry tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light umami notes of raw meat, a hint of fresh blackcurrant and a touch of juicy bilberry. The overall feel is harmonious and enjoyably structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and ample yet ripe tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is rich, ripe and quite savory with gentle yet firm tannic grip and long, dry flavors of juicy blackcurrants, some red-toned notes of strawberries and fresh cherries, a little bit of licorice root, light cedary notes of oak, a sweeter hint of soft, dark plum and a touch of earthy spice.
A wonderfully textural, firm and harmonious Napa Cab that certainly shows some ripeness, yet tiptoes wonderfully that fine line between ripe-fruited yet dry and savory in taste. The overall feel reminds me a lot of the terrific 2010 vintage, only this 2008 is showing a bit less intensity and structure. However, the overall impression is still remarkably youthful for a wine clocking in at 13 years of age, so I can imagine this wine easily needs another decade - or even more - to arrive at its plateau of maturity, and it will drink just fine for so much longer. Recommended, expect the score to inch up as the wine matures.
(92 points) -
2007 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 14,5% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Quite dense and concentrated blackish-red color with a slightly translucent, brick-red rim. Savory and quite powerful nose with aromas of toasty oak spice, some ripe black cherry, a little bit of juicy blackcurrant, light inky tones, a boozy hint of alcohol and a touch of autumnal leaves. The wine is ripe, rich and silky on the palate with a full body and slightly sweetish flavors of strawberries and blueberries, some plummy tones, a little bit of black licorice, light evolved notes of wizened black cherries, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of alcohol warmth. The structure relies mostly on the moderately high acidity, as the soft, resolved tannins contribute mainly to the smooth texture. The overall impression is rather ripe and a bit round. The finish is ripe, juicy and gently grippy with some alcohol warmth and rich flavors of juicy dark plums, some blueberry tones, a little bit of licorice root, light nuances of blackcurrant and a hint of sweet oak spice.
A rich, juicy and silky vintage of Togni Cab. Unlike most other vintages, which have come across as quite old-school and rather Bordeaux-like in character, this wine was noticeably more Napa in style, coming across as noticeably softer and sweeter in character with less emphasis on herbaceous elements and more pronounced fruit ripeness. The acidity feels high enough to keep the wine in balance, but the overall impression is a bit soft and I must say I prefer the vintages that have shown more structure and firmness. Although the wine does feel like it could age many years longer, based on its rather limited tertiary character, I really don't get the feeling that this wine is going to improve much with further aging. It is drinking pretty well right now and I suppose that within a few years this will be showing the greatest combination of youthful, ripe fruit and more tertiary complexity. Although there's no hurry with this wine, I'd say drink this vintage sooner rather than later and let the more structured vintages age some more in a cellar.
(90 points) -
2006 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 14,6% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Dark, slightly translucent and somewhat evolved deep pomegranate color. Savory, somewhat earthy and a bit restrained nose with slightly evolved, layered aromas of wizened blackberries, sweet dark plums, some autumnal notes of damp leaves, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, light blueberry tones, an evolved hint of smoky campfire character, a touch of fresh blackcurrant and a whiff of exotic spices. The wine is firm and full-bodied on the palate with a chewy, structure-driven and rather Bordeaux-like overall feel. There are intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants and fresh dark plums, some earthy tones, light woody notes of cedar, a little bit of gravelly minerality, autumnal hints of damp leaves and sous-bois and a touch of old leather. The wine is impressively structured with its high acidity and quite ample and still rather grippy tannins. The finish is savory, rather grippy and slightly warm with persistent, dry flavors of earthy and autumnal tones, some licorice root, a little bit of of toasty oak spice, light crunchy notes of fresh blackcurrant, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of leafy greenness.
A very impressive and structure driven Cabernet that is slowly inching towards its plateau of maturity. Structure-wise this is still a strapping youngster, showing still impressive tannic frame and good acidity, but fruit-wise the wine is starting to display more tertiary tones along with the juicy fruit flavors. The overall feel is rather ripe, but not excessively so, making the wine come across as a very "Napa" for a Cab, yet in a delightfully old-school style. As a whole, this wine is almost on par with the terrific 2005 vintage, but if push comes to shove, I'd say 2005 is slightly better with its slightly less obvious ripeness and moderate level of alcohol.
(94 points) -
2005 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). 13,9% alcohol. Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Quite concentrated and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a subtly evolved hue. Savory, slightly earthy-dusty and pleasantly evolved nose with aromas of fresh blackcurrants, some tobacco, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of juicy plummy fruit, a hint of sweet black cherry and a sweeter touch of wizened dark berries. Surprisingly little of anything in the way of wood. The wine is suave, balanced and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and dry flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light evolved notes of wizened dark plums, a little bit of toasty oak spice, a hint of campfire smoke and a touch of brambly forest fruits. Great sense of structure, thanks to the rather high acidity and ample, ripe tannins that gradually pile up on the gums, slowly making the wine turn more grippy than it initially appeared as. The finish is long, bold and moderately grippy with savory flavors of juicy blackcurrants, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of earth, light sweet nuances of wizened black cherries and a hint of leafy greenness.
A beautiful, classically styled Napa Cab that is a far cry from the modern, excessively ripe and heavily oaked blockbusters. This is really a wine you'd need to wonder whether it is a Bordeaux or Napa Cab - it's not yet a dead ringer for a Bordeaux, but close, very close. I love how the wine sort of is quite ripe, yet it is tucked into the background and the fruit flavors remain pretty dry and savory throughout, only letting glimpses of sweeter, more evolved fruit notes shine through. Quality-wise this was pretty much on par with the equally stunning 2006 vintage, but style-wise this was perhaps a bit more restrained, showing more savory qualities and less ripeness. All in all, pretty fantastic stuff that is drinking really well right now, but will keep on aging for many more years, possibly even decades. Highly recommended.
(94 points) -
2000 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (4.2.2022)
A blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (80-85%) with some Merlot (approx. 15%), Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (0-5%). Aged for approximately 20 months in oak barriques (40% new). Tasted in 2011-2000 Togni Cab vertical.
Deep, dark and somewhat translucent blackish-red color with an evolved dried-blood hue. The nose feels evolved, savory and very much Bordeaux-like in character with complex, seductive aromas of fresh blackcurrants, some tobacco, a little bit of herbaceous leafy character, light woody notes of pencil shavings, an evolved hint of smoke, a touch of gravelly minerality and a sweeter whiff of dried forest fruits. The wine feels dense, quite concentrated and surprisingly powerful on the palate, yet not at all heavy or particularly big, instead feeling only medium-to-moderately full in body. There are intense flavors of wizened dark forest fruits, evolved savory notes of gamey meat, some autumnal notes of damp leaves and forest floor, a little bit of fresh blackcurrant, light herbaceous notes of bell pepper, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of gravelly minerality. The high acidity and ripe yet still rather formidable tannins lend impressive sense of structure to the wine. The finish is very long, quite concentrated and rather grippy with intense dry flavors of ripe blackcurrants and fresh black cherries, some woody notes of oak spice, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of savory meat, a herbaceous hint of bell pepper and a sweet touch of dried dark fruits.
A beautiful, remarkably structured and stylistically very old-school Napa Cab that could be a dead ringer for a classic Cru Classé Bordeaux in any blind tasting. The wine shows some ripeness and remarkable sense of intensity and power, yet it is at the same time exceptionally fresh and surprisingly light on its feet. There are some evolved nuances both in the nose and in the taste, but there's still lots of room for further development in both departments and based on the still quite tightly-knit structure, there's no doubt this wine is going to keep just fine for many more years. Simply superb stuff. Drink now or keep another decade or maybe two. I wish all Napa Cabs were built like this. Highly recommended.
(96 points)
Posted from CellarTracker