A report from tasting of sweet 1990’s wines that @OtsoR threw about a year ago.
Some wines were in a great shape, others were already getting quite dead. Some also looked like motor oil yet were in a glorious shape. There seemed to be no rhyme or reason as to how the wines were performing - but then again, at that age, you just don’t get any great vintages, only great bottles.
We also had a blind bubbly in the beginning and a rather funky oddball in the end. Plus I brought that Suduiraut as an extra blind myself!
- 2013 Istenič Prestige Extra Brut - Slovenia, Posavje, Bizeljsko-Sremiški (7.8.2024)
A prestige cuvée made only in exceptional vintages. A blend of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%). Lot number 17012. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful, quite understated and somewhat yeasty with aromas of fresh red apple, light nutty notes of almond and a mineral hint of chalk dust. The wine feels quite light and neutral with a medium body and a bit dull flavors of borderline underripe white fruit, some rubbery reductive notes of air balloons, a little bit of extracted bitterness, light mineral notes of wet rocks and a hint of mealy yellow apple, The acidity feels high whereas the mousse comes across as sparse and medium in length. The finish is dull, somewhat short and a bit austere with a light aftertaste of unripe red apple, some pithy citrus bitterness, light crunchy notes of white fruits, a mineral hint of chalk dust and a touch of rubbery reduction.
A rather mediocre sparkling wine that feels like it was made with grapes that hadn't attained sufficient ripeness - what little fruit is here lacks intensity and comes across as somewhat shrill. The overall feel lacks charm and comes across as rather neutral and a bit austere. At 24,90€ this has been daylight robbery.
(67 points) - 1997 Franz Proidl Botrytis vom Veltliner Senftenberger - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal (7.8.2024)
A botrytized single-vineyard Grüner Veltliner. 16% alcohol.
Deep burnished golden yellow color with a pale coppery core. The nose feels sweet, slightly lifted with a bit rôtie aromas of almond paste, some cooked cream, light orange marmalade tones, a little bit of earth, a hint of caramel and a touch of nail polish. The wine feels sweet, hot and a bit weird on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of almond paste and turmeric, some boozy alcohol notes, light dried-fruit notes of Sultanas and dried apricots, a little bit of apple jam, a hint of earth and a touch of malty character. The high acidity lends good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is sweet, hot and somewhat extracted with a long aftertaste of dried apricots and Sultanas, some nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of extracted bitterness, light malty tones, a hint of caramel and a volatile touch of nail polish.
An interesting and still somewhat alive Austrian sticky, although the oxidative malty notes are starting to become a bit distracting. However, the biggest problem here is the excessively high alcohol - the 16% ABV simply makes the wine taste way too boozy and hot. Most fortified wines that can clock in at 20 to 21% ABV tend to feel less hot and more balanced than this wine! This is an interesting experiment, but not an entirely successful one. Can't really recommend.
(83 points) - 1995 Ernst Triebaumer Traminer Ruster Ausbruch Ried Mitterkräftn - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland (7.8.2024)
100% Gewurztraminer from Ried Mitterkräftn, made with partially botrytized grapes - not enough to be a Trockenbeerenauslese, but more concentrated and botrytized than a Beerenauslese. 15,5% alcohol.
Deep, luminous mahogany or concentrated maple syrup appearance. The nose feels dark-toned and somewhat roasted in character with bold aromas of syrupy molasses and caramel, some bruised apple, light coffee tones, a little bit of dark raisiny fruit, a volatile hint of nail polish, a touch of orange marmalade and a whiff of toffee. The wine feels rich and concentrated yet still remarkably somewhat airy on the palate with a full body and sweet flavors of syrupy molasses and bruised apple, some coffee tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light volatile nuances of nail polish, a hint of caramel and a touch of exotic spice. The sweetness seems to have started to subside with age and the moderately high acidity keeps the wine pretty nicely in balance. The surprisingly high alcohol stays remarkably well-hidden and the wine doesn't really appear hot or boozy at any point. The finish is sweet, juicy and evolved with a long, bold aftertaste of syrupy molasses, some nutty oxidative notes, a little bit of bruised apple, light volatile nail polish tones, a hint of coffee and a touch of caramel.
A rich, balanced and tasty dessert wine. This is basically an Austrian TBA at 30 years of age. Delicious with good sense of tertiary complexity and a nice, firm structure. I was surprised to learn that the wine was 15,5% in ABV, because the alcohol didn't really show through at any point. Nice stuff.
(91 points) - 1994 Cave de Turckheim Tokay Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles - France, Alsace (7.8.2024)
100% Pinot Gris.13% alcohol.
Quite deep amber color. The nose feels sweet, and quite fascinating with fragrant, characterful aromas of crushed cardamom, some apple jam, light orange marmalade tones, a little bit of powdered ginger, a hint of tangerine, a touch of dried peach and a spicy, green-toned whiff of Sichuan pepper. The wine feels silky, round and quite harmonious on the palate with a full body and sweet flavors of bruised apple and ripe tangerine, some dried apricot tones, a little bit of spicy wildhoney, light mineral notes of wet rocks, an oxidative hint of roasted nuts and a touch of cardamom. The medium-plus acidity feels rather modest for such a sweet wine, but it manages to retains some sense of balance nonetheless. The finish is long, harmonious and rather sweet with a complex aftertaste of orange marmalade, some Indian spices, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of spicy wild honey, an oxidative hint of roasted nuts and a touch of dried stone fruits.
A rather big, sweet and round SGN but one that still manages to come across as pretty balanced and thoroughly enjoyable. Sure, it could have a bit more acidity to come across somewhat more structured, but the wine is thoroughly enjoyable all the same with lovely richness, evolved complexity and depth of flavor. Perhaps not the most impressive SGN out there, but a lovely little drop all the same.
(89 points) - 1995 Josmeyer Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles - France, Alsace (7.8.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Gris. 12,5% alcohol.
Deep coppery amber color. The nose feels quite old and a bit dull with aromas of acacia honey, some earthy tones, a little bit of rye malt, light apple jam tones and a hint of oxidative nuttiness. The wine feels sweet, evolved and somewhat oxidative with a rather full body and a bit tired flavors of apple jam, some syrupy tones, a little bit of earth, light rich nuances of wild honey, a hint of saffron and a touch of stony minerality. The surprisingly high acidity lends some freshness and good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is long, lively and rather old with a medium-sweet aftertaste of bruised apple, some oxidative nutty tones, a little bit of syrupy molasses, light notes of saffron, a hint of dark-roasted coffee and a touch of honey.
A quite tasty SGN that is starting to get too old for its own good. You can taste that this has been quite impressive and wonderfully balanced sweet wine at some point, but now the wine is starting to get somewhat dull and tired. This is not yet in pieces, but already in a decline. No point in aging this any further - time to drink up.
(88 points) - 1999 Weingut Georg Schmelzer Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (7.8.2024)
100% Welschriesling. Made with botrytized grapes. 11% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and quite translucent syrupy-brown color. The nose feels rich, characterful and moderately evolved with sweet aromas of syrupy molasses and caramel, some dried peach, light volatile notes of nail polish and medicinal ether, a little bit of ripe tangerine, a hint of bruised apple, a touch of exotic spices and an oxidative whiff of chopped nuts. The wine feels rich, concentrated and complex on the palate with a full body and sweet flavors of ripe tangerine and bruised apple, some maple syrup, light volatile notes of medicinal ether and nail polish, a little bit of earthy spice and oxidative nuttiness, a hint of caramel and a touch of something metallic. The wine feels surprisingly fresh for a TBA with its wonderfully fresh, high acidity. The finish is long, complex and sweet with an intense aftertaste of maple syrup and caramel, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of ripe tangerine, light oxidative nutty notes, a volatile hint of nail polish and a touch of dried peach.
An attractive, complex and wonderfully evolved TBA that shows great sense of freshness, intensity and depth of flavor for a Welschriesling - a variety normally known as rather neutral, uninteresting and relatively low in acidity. This was thoroughly enjoyable and balanced all the way through - even if there was a little bit of VA, it didn't really distract one bit! The only thing that stuck out a little was that subtly metallic note that lingered underneath the fruitier flavors. I guess I might've rated the wine even higher without that metallic nuance, but even with it this was a superb little sticky. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 1999 Nittnaus TBA Neusiedlersee - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (7.8.2024)
A dessert wine made from botrytized grapes. Some sources say this is 100% Chardonnay, others say it is a white blend. I have no idea which one it is. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, concentrated amber color. The nose feels very rich, tropical and a bit oaky with aromas of pineapple and dried apricot, some caramel tones, a little bit of Bourbon-like vanilla and toasty oak spice, light botrytized notes of orange marmalade, a lifted hint of sweet, ethery VA, a creamy touch of panna cotta and a whiff of Sultana raisins. The wine feels complex, oily and somewhat sticky on the palate with a full body and lush flavors of caramel and dried pineapple, some vanilla oak tones, light cloudberry jam notes, a little bit of orange marmalade, a lifted hint of nail polish VA and a creamy touch of panna cotta. The medium acidity feels a bit modest for such a rich and lush wine, contributing to the luscious sweetness and sense of viscosity. The finish is very sweet, long and quite sticky with a complex, evolved aftertaste of syrupy molasses and dried tropical fruits, some creamy notes of panna cotta, a little bit of overripe pineapple, light Bourbon notes of vanilla and caramel, a hint of cloudberry jam and a volatile touch of nail polish.
A sophisticated but also rather luscious, heavy and viscous sweet wine where the rather noticeable, somewhat Bourbon-like oak impact lends a rather polished sheen to the already quite glossy wine. Basically the somewhat elevated level of VA makes the wine stand out a bit more. While thoroughly enjoyable and wonderfully complex with great sense of concentration brought by age, I feel the wine is a tad clumsy and ponderous - it would've come across as much more balanced with a bit more acidity, or a bit less residual sugar, or both. This is very good, but not a true stunner.
(90 points) - 1996 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Eiswein - Germany, Pfalz (7.8.2024)
100% Riesling. 9,5% alcohol. AP number 002 97.
rather cloudy and quite dull syrupy brown color. The nose is old, oxidative and quite unique with aromas of syrupy molasses and sweet malt bread, some fragrant caraway seed notes, a little bit of minty greenness, light raisiny tones, a hint of lemon marmalade, a touch of roasted nuts and a whiff of meat stew. The wine feels firm, oxidative and precise with a medium body and very sweet flavors of caramel and raisins, some sweet malt bread notes, a little bit of lemony citrus fruits, light apple jam tones, oxidative hints of dark-roasted coffee and nuttiness and a touch of minty greenness. The malty character is quite subtle, yet still rather pervasive. The bracing acidity lends a tremendous amount of incisive structure and electric energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, complex and racy with an intense, evolved aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and tangy salinity, some sweet notes of apple jam and malt bread, light spicy notes of caraway seeds, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, a hint of burnt coffee and a touch of minty greenness.
This was getting a bit too old and tired for pleasure, but the wine was nevertheless quite captivating with its complex tertiary notes that were quite unlike I've ever seen is a sweet (non-botrytized) Riesling. The malty and nutty notes of oxidation were nothing particularly weird, but the surprisingly noticeable minty green notes were definitely something I normally don't see in Rieslings made in any style. Add some caraway aromatics, and this was a very idiosyncratic wine indeed. Despite its very advanced overall feel, it managed to still offer some pleasure, thanks to its wonderfully brisk, racy acidity. I think this might've been a pretty wonderful sticky about a decade ago. At the moment the wine is in a decline and it isn't going to get better with any additional aging.
(87 points) - 1994 Kerpen Graacher Domprobst Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7.8.2024)
100% Riesling from Graacher Domprobst, made with botrytized grapes. 8% alcohol. AP 18 95.
Luminous, medium-deep reddish coppery color with a moderately pale burnished golden rim. The nose feels sharp, rich and very attractive with a pronounced streak of saffron, some apple jam, a little bit of maple syrup, light caramel tones, a botrytized hint of orange marmalade, a touch of bruised apple and a whiff of smoke. The wine feels rich, sticky in texture yet incisive in overall feel with a full body and intensely sweet flavors of saffron and Sultana raisins, some orange marmalade tones, a little bit of steely and saline minerality, light bruised apple notes, hints of roasted exotic spices and a faint tangy touch of acetic VA. The brisk acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is long, sweet and incisive with a rich, complex aftertaste of pronounced saffron, some caramel and burnt sugar bitterness, light lemony citrus notes, a little bit of steely minerality, a hint of apple jam and a touch of orange marmalade.
A beautiful, classically styled TBA approaching its plateau of maturity. The wine is evolved and doesn't feel young in any way, but with this much intensity and concentration, I feel there might be a little bit of aging potential still left in the wine. However, the wine is very impressive at the moment and doesn't really call for any additional aging. Superb stuff, highly recommended.
(95 points) - 1998 Müller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, Pfalz (7.8.2024)
100% Rieslaner from Gimmeldinger Schlössel, made with botrytized grapes. 10% alcohol.
Deep, dark syrupy brown color with a somewhat reddish mahogany hue. The nose feels sweet, concentrated and moderately volatile with aromas of maple syrup, some raisiny tones, a little bit of fig jam, light lifted notes of nail polish, a hint of orange marmalade, a touch of treacle and a whiff of dried tropical fruits. The wine feels sweet, broad and syrupy on the palate with a full body and quite intense flavors of syrupy molasses and caramel, some raisiny tones, a little bit of cherry jam, light lifted notes of balsamic VA and nail polish, sweet hints of orange marmalade and and maple syrup and a touch of exotic spices. The medium-to-moderately high acidity lends some sense of firmness and balance to the wine, but such a rich, luscious wine could use maybe a bit more freshness. The finish is long, rich and complex with a very sweet aftertaste of maple syrup and dried figs, some raisiny tones, a little bit of orange marmalade, light caramel nuances, a volatile hint of nail polish and a touch of fig jam. The wine ends of a rich, somewhat soft and quite sticky note.
A very tasty, luscious and impressively complex TBA with wonderful length and flavor intensity. However, the overall feel is quite viscous and sticky as the acidity feels a bit modest for such a sweet and concentrated wine. With a bit more acidity this might've been an exceptional wine, but that is not to say this isn't a terrific dessert wine already now. Most likely the wine is at its plateau of maturity now and probably has been there for some time. I doubt the wine is capable of evolving any further from here, but most likely the wine is not going to be falling apart anytime soon. Drink now or within the next decade.
(93 points) - 1998 Lambouri Apollonia Commandaria - Cyprus, Commandaria (7.8.2024)
A traditional blend of red Mavro and white Xynisteri, raisined for a prolonged period after the harvest but before the vinification. Aged for a minimum of 5 years before bottling. 13% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and quite dark reddish-mahogany color. The nose feels sweet, fragrant and quite noticeably volatile with a pronounced, ethery streak of ethyl acetate, some dried figs, light vanilla notes of oak, a little bit of nail polish, a hint of ample syrup, a touch of honey and an oxidative whiff of roasted nuts. The wine feels oily, even sticky, and a bit over-the-top on the palate with a full body and rich, luscious flavors of maple syrup and strawberry-vanilla ice cream, some volatile notes of nail polish, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light sweet notes of toasty oak spice, a hint of plum compote and a touch of cherry pits. The rather low acidity feels way too modest for such a sweet wine. The finish is long, sticky and quite unctuous with a very sweet aftertaste of syrupy molasses, some vanilla oak, light raisiny tones, a little bit of nail polish VA, a hint of strawberry jam and a touch of cherry pits.
A super-rich, unctuous and somewhat over-the-top Commandaria. The wine is surprisingly youthful for its age (and rather dark appearance) - for example the oaky notes have not gone anywhere in the past quarter of a century! - but that doesn't help with the fact that the wine feels a bit excessively sweet with a bit too little acidity to keep things in balance. While quite tasty, the wine quite quickly becomes a bit too tiring and ponderous.
(85 points) - 1940 Château Sisqueille Rivesaltes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Rivesaltes (7.8.2024)
Typically a blend of different Grenache clones - mainly Grenache Noir, but often with some Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris as well. After a few days of fermentation the wine is fortified to halt the fermentation. Kept is casks for approximately 70 years, bottled in 2011. 16% alcohol.
Evolved, deep and quite concentrated golden yellow color. The nose feels sweet, dark-toned and quite concentrated with complex aromas of dried dates and wizened dark plums, some caramel, light raisiny tones, a little bit of cigar box and exotic spices, a volatile hint of nail polish, a touch of strawberry jam and a whiff of dusty old wood. The wine feels concentrated, evolved - yet not old - and balanced on the palate with a full body and complex, sweet flavors of prunes and raisiny fruit, some peppery spice, light alcohol warmth, light gravelly mineral notes, hints of strawberry jam and dried red fruits and a touch of pipe tobacco. The surprisingly high acidity lends great sense of structure to the wine while offsetting some of the residual sugar sweetness. The finish is very long, warm and so complex with a sweet aftertaste of exotic spices and dried red fruits, some peppery tones, a little bit of balancing bitterness, light pipe tobacco nuances, a hint of dried dates and a touch of caramel.
A fantastic old Rivesaltes that feels very evolved but not particularly old - in the tasting where this wine was tasted, we had lots of aged sweet wines less than half as old as this wine, yet most of them seemed much older than this old-timer! Exceptional sense of depth, intensity and complexity with a wonderfully high level of acidity that keeps the wine so effortlessly in balance. These old Sisqueilles never seem to fail - they are constantly so amazing wines. Very highly recommended.
(96 points) - 1997 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (7.8.2024)
A blend of Sémillon (90%) and Sauvignon Blanc (10%). Aged for 18-24 months in French oak barriques (approx. 1/3 new, 1/3 once used and 1/3 older). 134% alcohol.
Deep maple syrup color. The nose feels a bit restrained but very complex and attractive with layered aromas of dried apricots and saffron, some botrytis notes of orange marmalade, light toasty smoky notes, a little bit of burnt sugar, a lifted hint of nail polish, a touch of cloudberry jam and a oaky whiff sweet exotic spices. The wine feels rich, balanced and complex on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of maple syrup and saffron, some orange marmalade, a little bit of dried pineapple, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of burnt sugar bitterness and a lifted touch of sweet VA. The mouthfeel is slightly viscous or oily, but the high acidity keeps the wine from tasting sticky or too sweet. The persistent finish is rich, evolved and nuanced with an intense, complex aftertaste of exotic spices and saffron, some honeyed tones, a little bit of dried apricot, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of burnt sugar bitterness and a touch of cloudberry jam.
A fantastic, balanced and classically styled Sauternes on its plateau of maturity. I'm sure the wine won't fall apart anytime soon, but as the wine is showing quite a bit of tertiary complexity and the fruit department feels like it is slowly starting to close down, I feel the wine is not going to improve with additional aging - at least not in this half-bottle format. A superb wine that can be drunk now and over the following decade or so. An absolute steal at just 18€ for a half bottle. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) - 1996 Alois Kracher Zweigelt TBA #5 Nouvelle Vague - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (7.8.2024)
100% Zweigelt aged in new French oak barriques. Bottled after 18 months of oak aging. 9,0% alcohol, 257,5 g/l residual sugar and 9,3 g/l acidity.
Very deep, dark and fully opaque blackish-brown color. The nose feels sweet, fragrant and quite distinctive with lush aromas of plum jam and raisins, some cherry marmalade, a little bit of blueberry juice, light volatile notes of balsamico, a hint of honeyed character and a touch of sweet oak spice. The wine feels huge, thick and exuberant on the palate with a full body and very intense, noticeably sweet flavors of cherry marmalade and overripe plums, some quince jam, light raisiny tones, a little bit of balsamic VA, light honeyed nuances, a hint of blueberry juice and a faint, tangy touch of acetic VA. Even if the wine is very thick, viscous and sticky in texture, the overall feel is still remarkably fresh and balanced due to the surprisingly high acidity. The finish is very sweet, long and complex with a rich and very intense aftertaste of pomegranate syrup and honey, some raisiny tones, a little bit of dried dates, light juicy notes of ripe dark plums, a volatile hint of balsamico and a touch of acetic sharpness.
A ridiculously over-the-top red TBA that is just textbook Kracher in every aspect. Tons of everything and then some. This would be even better if it weren't for the somewhat elevated level of VA - I don't mind those rich, subtly sweet balsamico tones but the understated yet perceptible notes of acetic sharpness do distract a tiny bit. Nevertheless, this is a fantastic dessert wine by all standards. It might be quite impossible to find anything as bold to pair with the wine, so I guess it is best served just on its own, without anything else. Or then with some sharp, pungent and salty blue cheese. Anything less bold will just get completely obliterated by this wine.
(94 points) - 2018 Jean Christophe Jezequel Aunis - France, Loire Valley, Vin de France (7.8.2024)
100% Pineau d'Aunis from vines up to 100 years old in Touraine. Vinified in whole bunches for two weeks. Aged for a year in old barriques and demi-muids. 12% alcohol.
Pale, very translucent raspberry-red color with a wide, almost colorless rim. The nose feels wild, lifted and somewhat smoky with aromas of bretty funk and ripe pomegranate, some reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, light phenolic notes of leathery funk and smoke, a little bit of brambly raspberries, a hint of barnyard and a lifted touch of VA. The wine feels fresh, wild and funky on the palate with a light body and crunchy flavors of brambly raspberries and phenolic spice, some bretty notes of barnyard and leather, a little bit of acetic VA, light appley notes (making me think there is some malic acid here), hints of tart lingonberries and cranberries and a touch of smoky reduction. The wine is pretty firm and structured with its high acidity and medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is lively, wild and somewhat grippy with a moderately long aftertaste of phenolic spice, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of smoky reduction, light appley nuances, bretty hints of barnyard and animale and a touch of tart lingonberry.
An enjoyably firm and fresh but otherwise rather generic and anonymous glou-glou bistro wine from the natty end of the spectrum. As the wine is dominated by bretty notes, some reductive qualities and a little bit of acetic VA, it's hard to see much varietal characteristics of Pineau d'Aunis. Maybe the smoky and spicy tones, but as they blend together with the smoky phenolic notes and reductive nuances of gunpowder smoke, it's pretty impossible to tell. While a relatively balanced and enjoyable wine in its own way, I found it quite hard to get excited about the wine.
(84 points)
Posted from CellarTracker