A report on our Ramos Pinto tasting from last spring.
Ramos Pinto is one of the pioneering producers in making Douro table wines; Barca Velha (debut vintage 1952) was basically the only dry table wine of note until the early 1990’s, when producers like Niepoort and Ramos Pinto started making their own dry reds and whites, making the rest of the region follow in suit a little bit later on.
However, already in 1974 the people at Ramos Pinto started researching with experimental vineyards which grape varieties were best suited to the climate of the Douro valley. And the results from these experiments were not used only for Port wine production, but were also vital when the table wine production began in earnest in Douro.
Ramos Pinto owns four quintas: the larger Quinta do Bom Retiro (about 70 hectares) and the smaller Quinta da Urtiga (3,5 hectares) in Cima Corgo; and Quinta da Ervamoira (quite flat and rather huge at 150 hectares of planted vineyards between the altitudes of 100 m and 350 m asl) and smaller Quinta dos Bons Ares (20 hectares at 600 m asl) in Douro Superior. The latter two quintas in Douro Superior were selected for these experiments: traditional red Douro varieties were planted in controlled rows at Quinta da Ervamoira; traditional white Douro varieties along with some international varieties were planted at the cooler Quinta dos Bons Ares.
Although Ramos Pinto is famous for their long history with Port wines, we were more interested in tasting the dry table wines of the winery in this tasting. The wines spanned a period of 20 years, beginning with the 2012 vintage and ending with 1992 - one of the first vintages Ramos Pinto made. As an interesting tidbit: the oldest wines we tasted predated the creation of the Vinho Regional Duriense appellation, so they were bottled under the Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes appellation, which covered the whole Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro province (nowadays there are two VR’s: Duriense for wines made in the Douro valley and Transmontano for wines made elsewhere in the province).
And, as always, we had some extra wines before and after the tasting proper (forgot to include that Baumann-Zirgel wine in the lineup photo!):
- 1990 Bacalhoa (Aliança) Bairrada Angelus Reserva - Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada (29.3.2024)
A blend of Baga and Tinta Pinheira. 12% alcohol.
Fully opaque, old and somewhat hazy syrupy-brown color. The wine smells like a Tawny Port or a sweet Madeira with rich, tertiary and quite oxidative - yet not sharp or pungent - aromas of raisins and dried dates, some maple syrup, light arrack tones, a hint of caramel and a touch of meat stew. The wine feels mellow and rather oxidized on the palate - not unlike a Tawny Port without any residual sugar - with a medium body and tired flavors of raisins, some caramel, light maple syrup tones, a little bit of dried dates, a hint of ripe figs and a touch of arrack. The structure relies more on the still relatively grippy tannins than on the soft medium acidity. The finish is long, oxidative and rather grippy with a tired, tertiary aftertaste of raisins and dried dates, some maple syrup, light earthy tones, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of old leather and a touch of caramel.
Although more or less fully oxidized, the wine was still surprisingly pleasant! It didn't have any sharp, pungent aldehydic notes that usually characterize oxidized red wines. This felt more or less like a Tawny Port or a Madeira, only without any sweetness. Not really what the wine was supposed to be, though. The wine didn't really break the bank at 8,25€, but I must say it still wasn't worth the price.
(NR/flawed) - 2020 Baumann-Zirgel Pinot Gris Le Renard & La Lune Rouge - France, Alsace (31.3.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Pinot Gris. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added sulfites. 14,5% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar and 5,8 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Luminous, translucent, medium-deep raspberry-red color. The nose feels very reductive and quite flatulent at first, but after the reduction blows off, there are fresh aromas of Fuji apple, some crunchy redcurrants, light cherry tones, a little bit of savory spice, a hint of smoke and a faint lifted touch of sweet VA. The overall impression is that of a light red wine. The wine feels dry, juicy and quite ripe on the palate with a medium body and surprisingly clean flavors of brambly raspberries and sweet Fuji apples, some savory spicy notes, a little bit of waxy funk, a hint of fresh cherry and a subtly volatile touch of nail polish. The wine is medium in acidity with very light and supple tannins, making the overall feel pretty gentle and mellow. The finish is dry, juicy and barely grippy with a moderately long aftertaste of brambly raspberries, some savory spice, light appley tones, a little bit of smoky phenolic character, a hint of crunchy redcurrants and a touch of sweet VA.
A surprisingly nice and tasty, albeit a bit soft and mellow wine that technically is an orange wine, smells and tastes more like a red wine (with some white wine elements) and ultimately drinks like a rosé wine. I really don't know what to think of this wine, but it is fun and enjoyable all the same. Quite idiosyncratic, if anything. What's nice, though, is that even though the wine is made in a fully natural no-SO2 style, its wild and natty elements are quite subtle and in the background. This is wonderfully pure and clean effort in this style often marred by very natty and forbiddingly funky wines. A superb purchase at 15€.
(90 points) - 2017 Szentesi Pince Fekete Muskotály - Hungary, Észak-Dunántúl, Etyek Buda (31.3.2024)
100% Fekete Muskotály aka. Black Muscat - although the producer believes this is a distinct variety. Fermented spontaneously. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, pale raspberry-red color with an orange hue. The nose feels very fragrant and floral with perfumed aromas of rosewater, some raspberry juice, light red apple nuances, a hint of quince and a touch of exotic spices. The wine feels supple and quite soft on the palate with a rather light body and characterful flavors of roses, some bitter spices, a little bit of crunchy whitecurrants, light grapey tones, a hint of ripe red apple and a touch of lychee. The medium acidity is a bit on the soft side and the tannins come across as very light and supple. The finish is dry, floral and very slightly grippy with a medium-long aftertaste of ripe redcurrants, some perfumed notes of roses, a little bit of juicy red apple, light spicy nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of lychee.
A fun, quite simple and tasty little red wine that honestly smells and tastes like a Muscat white wine - only with vaguely red-toned overtones. There's relatively little in the way of structure, so the focus is almost exclusively on the fragrant, floral qualities. While the wine feels very playful and nothing too serious, it is obvious that this is nevertheless a serious, well-crafted wine. Although the wine is a light-bodied red wine, maybe one should approach it more like a dry rosé (that just happens to smell and taste like rosewater)?
(87 points) - 2012 Ramos Pinto Branco Bons Ares - Portugal, Douro, Vinho Regional Duriense (31.3.2024)
A blend of traditional Douro varieties (60%; mainly Viosinho and Rabigato) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%) from high-altitude (600 m above sea level) vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are harvested in two tiers; the first tier is cold-soaked with the skins for 12 hours, whereas the second tier undergoes a selection, after which the grapes are crushed gently and gently pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks (90%) and oak barrels (10%) for 8 months, bottled in spring 2013. 13,5% alcohol, 6,6 g/l acidity and pH 3,05.
Somewhat pale yet still quite intense lime-green color. The nose feels intensely aromatic and quite tropical with a pronounced streak of Sauvignon Blanc's green currants and currant leaves, followed by notes of honeydew melon, some ripe gooseberries, a little bit of damp wool, light floral nuances, a hint of crunchy red apple and a woody touch of sawdust. The wine feels fresh, youthful and lively on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of ripe green currants, some woolly notes of lanolin, a little bit of yellow gooseberry and tart Granny Smith apple, light woody notes of sawdust and untoasted oak, a perfumed hint of floral character and a touch of stony minerality. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and energy to the wine. The finish is lively, crunchy and quite acid-driven with a moderately long aftertaste of green currants, some gooseberries, light woody notes of sawdust and untoasted oak, a little bit of damp wool, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of tart appley fruit.
A surprisingly fresh white that is dominated quite heavily by the Sauvignon Blanc component - if I were to taste this wine blind, I'd never put this in Portugal! With its tropical elements and subtle oak influence, I'd probably go to new world instead. Although the wine is still surprisingly youthful and wonderfully crunchy, the woolly and sawdusty elements take a great toll on the vibrancy and freshness of the flavors, making the overall feel a bit dull. I have no idea if aging is going to help with these qualities, or if they have emerged with age. Although the wine wasn't bad in any way, I found it hard to get excited about it. This was an order of magnitude below the 2011 vintage of the same wine. Not really worth the price at 18,82€.
(85 points) - 2011 Ramos Pinto Branco Bons Ares - Portugal, Douro, Vinho Regional Duriense (31.3.2024)
A blend of traditional Douro varieties (60%; mainly Viosinho and Rabigato) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%) from high-altitude (600 m above sea level) vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are harvested in two tiers; the first tier is cold-soaked with the skins for 12 hours, whereas the second tier undergoes a selection, after which the grapes are crushed gently and gently pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks (90%) and oak barrels (10%) for 8 months, bottled in spring 2012. 13,5% alcohol, 6,4 g/l acidity and pH 3,1.
Quite pale yet still relatively intense lime-green color. The nose feels quite fruity and somewhat tropical with aromas of ripe red apple and cantaloupe, some fragrant floral tones, a little bit of ripe gooseberry, light honeyed nuances, hints of green currants and currant leaves, a touch of creamy oak and a woolly whiff of lanolin. The wine feels lively, fresh and focused on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of fresh red apple and cantaloupe, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of ripe red gooseberry, light zesty citrus fruit nuances, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of tart passion fruit. The high acidity lends great sense of structure and energy to the wine. The finish is ripe yet lively and acid-driven with a long, dry aftertaste of ripe yellow fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light juicy notes of cantaloupe, a hint of sweet spice and a touch of passion fruit.
A tasty, harmonious and still remarkably youthful Portuguese white. Just like the 2012 vintage, this wine is much younger than you'd expect - although it is showing maybe a bit more evolution than the 2012 vintage. Maybe it is this sense of development, but this 2011 vintage comes across as much more harmonious, balanced and complete - the Sauvignon Blanc aromatics are not in-your-face anymore and the oaky nuances don't feel woody, but more integrated and creamy, complementing the exotic fruit flavors beautifully. All in all, a very nice and thoroughly enjoyable effort. At 27€, this was much more expensive than the 2012 vintage, but the wine manages to deliver for the price. Recommended.
(91 points) - 2009 Ramos Pinto Branco Bons Ares - Portugal, Douro, Vinho Regional Duriense (31.3.2024)
A blend of traditional Douro varieties (60%; mainly Viosinho and Rabigato) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%) from high-altitude (600 m above sea level) vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are harvested in two tiers; the first tier is cold-soaked with the skins for 12 hours, whereas the second tier undergoes a selection, after which the grapes are crushed gently and gently pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks (90%) and oak barrels (10%) for 8 months, bottled in spring 2010. 14% alcohol, 4,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,4.
Deep and quite concentrated neon lime-green color. The nose feels rich, juicy and quite expansive with sweet-toned aromas of acacia honey and cantaloupe, some developed creamy tones, a little bit of poached pear, light pineapple nuances, oxidative hints of apple core and bruised apple and a touch of savory spices. The wine feels round, oily and concentrated on the palate with a very full body and rich flavors of honeydew melon and nectarine, some peach marmalade tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light nutty notes of chopped almonds, a hint of pineapple and a touch of bruised apple. The level of acidity comes across as quite modest, making the wine feel a tad blowzy. The finish is juicy, long and somewhat evolved with a rather concentrated aftertaste of sweet peachy stone fruit and overripe pineapple, some developed creamy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light nutty notes of slivered almonds, a hint of savory spice and a touch of bruised apple.
A rich and enjoyably complex but also quite heavy and cumbersome white. It feels as though the wine itself has aged gracefully, but the combination of very ripe fruit flavors and rather modest acidity have made the overall feel quite soft and clumsy, both contributing to the lack of freshness. I guess the cooler vintages of this wine can be pretty impressive once they reach this stage of evolution, but this wine has not benefited as much from the aging, due to the noticeably high level of ripeness, relatively high alcohol and pretty low acidity. Not maybe worth the approx. 30€ price.
(87 points) - 2010 Ramos Pinto Douro Duas Quintas Branco - Portugal, Douro (31.3.2024)
A blend of Viosinho (50%), Rabigato (30%) and Arinto (20%) from two quintas in Douro Superior: the weight and power come from Quinta de Ervamoira (vineyards at 150 m above sea level) and the freshness comes from Quinta dos Bons Ares (vineyards at 600 m above sea level). The grapes are first cold-soaked for 12 hours, then gently pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks (90%) and French oak barrels (10%), bottled in February 2011. 13% alcohol, 4,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,4.
Slightly hazy, medium-deep lime-green color with subtly golden-yellow highlights. The nose feels ripe yet fresh with aromas of peach and greengage, some apple jam, light developed creamy tones, a little bit of honeysuckle, a fragrant hint of aromatic green herbs, a dull, woody touch of untoasted oak and a touch of savory spices. The wine feels rich, characterful and slightly oily on the palate with a full body and harmonious flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple and honeyed richness, some developed creamy tones, a little bit of greengage, light spicy and herby notes, a woody hint of sawdust and a sweet touch of apple jam. The medium-to-moderately high acidity lends welcome sense of balance and structure to the wine that might otherwise feel a bit too heavy and viscous. The finish is rich, juicy and somewhat evolved with a long, complex aftertaste of apple jam, some greengage, light developed creamy oak tones, a little bit of beeswax, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of herby spice.
A sophisticated, tasty and pleasantly developed Douro white. Although the overall feel is pretty balanced, the wine still could use a bit more acidity as it feels now a bit heavy and ponderous. Nevertheless, there's some lovely depth and complexity to the flavors and the wine is quite true to the region. A fine wine from the weightier end of the spectrum - but getting a tad expensive for the quality at 34€.
(90 points) - 2007 Ramos Pinto Douro Duas Quintas Branco - Portugal, Douro (31.3.2024)
A blend of Viosinho (50%), Rabigato (30%) and Arinto (20%) from two quintas in Douro Superior: the weight and power come from Quinta de Ervamoira (vineyards at 150 m above sea level) and the freshness comes from Quinta dos Bons Ares (vineyards at 600 m above sea level). 85% of the grapes are directly pressed; 15% of the grapes are first macerated with the skins, then gently pressed. Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks (80%) and French oak barrels (20%), bottled in spring 2008. 13,5% alcohol, 5,8 g/l acidity and pH 3,4.
Moderately evolved golden yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels rich, open and evolved with layered aromas of ripe nectarines, some caramel tones, a little bit of extracted waxy and spicy character, light dried pineapple tones, a hint of beeswax and a touch of smoke. The wine feels broad, oily and quite heavy on the palate with a full body and rich, evolved flavors of honey and juicy apricots, some beeswax, light spicy wood notes, a little bit of sweet almond paste, a hint of greengage and a touch of stony minerality. The alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The medium acidity feels a bit modest, making the overall feel somewhat soft and ponderous. The finish is big, rather warm and somewhat heavy with a rich, long aftertaste of honey and beeswax, some overripe apricot, light caramel tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, extracted hints of waxy character and robust spice and a nutty touch of almond.
It feels the wine has evolved in the right direction, but age has also concentrated the wine - that must've been quite ripe to begin with - and now the acidity feels somewhat inadequate for such a voluminous wine. I like the tertiary complexity here, but without the vital freshness from the acidity, the overall feel becomes quite heavy and clumsy. This is a fine and enjoyable effort for a sip or two, but starts to feel like a chore after a little while. Although the wine is still full of life and doesn't really show any oxidative qualities, I nevertheless feel the wine has seen better days and might've been more balanced and enjoyable while it was still a bit younger. Comes across as pretty expensive for the quality at 48€.
(88 points) - 2008 Ramos Pinto Bons Ares - Portugal, Douro, Vinho Regional Duriense (31.3.2024)
A blend of traditional Douro varieties, Touriga Nacional (50%) and Touriga Francesa (10%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) from vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 2 weeks. Aged in vats (60%) and French oak barrels (40%) for 18 months. Bottled fined and filtered. 14,5% alcohol, 5,0 g/l acidity and pH 3,6.
Dark, somewhat translucent black cherry color with a slightly evolved dried-blood hue. The nose feels savory, meaty and quite tertiary with aromas of ripe cherries and juicy red plums, some herbaceous notes of leafy Cab character, light smoky tones, a little bit of savory spice, a hint of beef jerky or even prosciutto and a touch of dried dates. The wine feels tertiary and somewhat oxidative on the palate with a medium body and aged flavors of tobacco and soy sauce, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant and tart red plum, light earthy nuances, a hint of ferrous blood and a sweet touch of prunes. The wine is quite high in acidity with quite assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is evolved, long and tannic with a dry, tertiary aftertaste of earth and wizened red plum, light savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of ferrous blood, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, a hint of crunchy redcurrant and a touch of raisiny dark fruit.
A surprisingly old and tired Douro red - I was expecting these to last easily at least 15-20 years, whereas this wine feels like it must've hit its peak before its 10th birthday and has now been in a decline for some time. This is still enjoyable for a somewhat anonymous old wine - especially the tannic structure is still very much unresolved - but it is obvious that this wine must've been much more vibrant some time ago. Now only a quite senescent and somewhat oxidative wine remains. Not really worth the 35€.
(84 points) - 1996 Ramos Pinto Bons Ares - Portugal, Trás-os-Montes, Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes (31.3.2024)
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 2 weeks. Aged in traditional oak pipas for 8 months. 12% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent black cherry color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels surprisingly youthful and vibrant with attractive aromas of sweet dark fruits, some cassis notes of Cabernet, a little bit of juicy plummy fruit, light minty green nuances, a hint of fresh bilberry, an evolved touch of meat stew and a fragrant whiff of pipe tobacco. The wine feels dry, clean and quite silky on the palate with a medium body and somewhat evolved flavors of ripe red plums, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light sweeter nuances of dried bilberries, a hint of minty greenness and a touch of woody oak spice. The overall feel is enjoyably structured and balanced with the moderately high acidity and firm medium-plus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is lively, juicy and somewhat grippy with a long, moderately evolved aftertaste of ripe dark fruits, some pipe tobacco, light developed notes of meaty umami, light minty herbal nuances, a sweet hint of wizened bilberries and a touch of wood.
A sophisticated, harmonious and tasty Douro red more or less on its plateau of maturity. I was quite surprised how relatively youthful the wine was - especially when the 2008 vintage of the same wine was already quite tired and oxidative! Although moderately evolved, this wine shows no signs of oxidation or tiredness. I doubt the wine is going to evolve much further from here, but most likely it isn't going to fall apart anytime soon, either. Drink now or within the next 10-ish years. Great stuff. Priced according to its quality at 47€.
(92 points) - 1994 Ramos Pinto Quinta dos Bons Ares - Portugal, Trás-os-Montes, Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes (31.3.2024)
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 2 weeks. Aged in traditional oak pipas for 8 months. 13% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent black cherry color with a moderately evolved maroon hue. The nose feels attractive and somewhat evolved yet not old (nor particularly youthful) with seductive aromas of tobacco and ripe red plums, some licorice tones, a little bit of dark forest fruits, light green nuances of minty greenness and Sichuan pepper, a tertiary hint of beef jerky, a touch of prunes and a whiff of dried flowers. The wine feels evolved, velvety and very attractive with a medium body and layered, somewhat sweet-toned flavors of wizened dark plums, some minty green tones, a little bit of saddle leather, light evolved notes of beef jerky, a hint of earthy spice and a touch of licorice root. The medium-to-moderately high acidity feels high enough to keep the wine in balance, but the structure relies mostly on the ample, firm and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, evolved and quite tannic with a savory and somewhat tertiary aftertaste of dried dark fruits, some dried flowers, a little bit of licorice root, light minty green nuances, a hint of ripe forest fruits and a touch of saddle leather.
A beautiful, harmonious and wonderfully evolved Douro red. I guess the wine would come across even more impressive with a little bit higher acidity, as the acidity feels the only part the wine is lacking a little bit - but this is a very complete and harmonious wine all the same. As the age is starting to show, it is pretty obvious that the wine is on its plateau of maturity, and has been there for some time. Although the wine doesn't show any signs of going downhill, I guess it wouldn't hurt to play it safe and drink the wine sooner rather than later. Terrific stuff, solid value at 49€.
(93 points) - 1992 Ramos Pinto Quinta dos Bons Ares - Portugal, Trás-os-Montes, Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes (31.3.2024)
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards at Quinta dos Bons Ares in Douro Superior. The grapes are fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 2 weeks. Aged in traditional oak pipas for 8 months. 13% alcohol.
Somewhat evolved and moderately translucent dark cherry color with an aged rusty hue and a pale brick-orange rim. The nose feels complex, layered and quite captivating with evolved aromas of prunes and mint jelly, some beef jerky, light cassis nuances, a little bit of blueberry juice, light fragrant notes of violets, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of dried herbs and a whiff of strawberry. The wine feels silky and evolved yet still relatively firm on the palate with a full body and complex, evolved flavors of tobacco, ripe blueberry and minty herbal character, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of eucalyptus, light fragrant nuances of pipe tobacco and cumin, sweeter dried-fruit hints of prunes and raisins and a touch of cigar box. The wine still retains good sense of structure with its moderately high acidity and ample, relatively grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, sweet-toned and pretty grippy with a long, tertiary aftertaste of prunes and wizened blueberries, some minty green tones, a little bit of beef jerky, light cedary nuances of wood, a hint of eucalyptus and a touch of cassis.
An excellent, beautifully evolved and harmonious Douro red at full maturity. The developed Cabernet Sauvignon component lends a vaguely old-school Bordelais feel to the wine, but the fragrant floral nuances and blueberry tones are all about Touriga Nacional. Although it is obvious the wine isn't young anymore, the wine was still in a much better shape I anticipated. As it is now on its plateau of maturity - and has been there for quite some time - it is obvious that the wine is not going to get any better with additional aging. You really want to catch the wine while it is still singing, so better to drink any remaining bottles sooner rather than later! Good value at 55€.
(94 points) - 2005 Ramos Pinto Douro Duas Quintas - Portugal, Douro (31.3.2024)
A blend of Touriga Francesa (40%), Tinta Roriz (40%) and Touriga Nacional (20%) sourced from two almost neighboring estates ("Duas Quintas") in Douro Superior, which are Quinta dos Bons Ares at the altitude of 600 m, and Quinta de Ervamoira at the altitude of 150 to 200 m above sea level. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks. Aged in stainless steel tanks (80%) and oak casks (20%) for 18 months. 13,5% alcohol, 5,1 g/l acidity and pH 3,7.
Somewhat evolved cherry-red color with a tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels very repulsive with a strong, musty hit of mold and mildew.
A bad case of TCA here. This bottle was 36,27€ down the drain.
(NR/flawed) - 2001 Ramos Pinto Douro Duas Quintas - Portugal, Douro (31.3.2024)
A blend of Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional sourced from two almost neighboring estates ("Duas Quintas") in Douro Superior, which are Quinta dos Bons Ares at the altitude of 600 m, and Quinta de Ervamoira at the altitude of 150 to 200 m above sea level. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks. Aged in stainless steel tanks (80%) and oak casks (20%) for 18 months. 13% alcohol.
Evolved, slightly translucent and quite dark red color with a developed rusty-maroon hue and a thin, colorless rim. The nose feels evolved, even quite old, and a bit funky with aromas of beef jerky and wizened dark fruits, some smoky phenolic tones, a little bit of dried fig, light cedary notes of wood, bretty hints of farmhouse funk and old leather, a sanguine touch of iron and an earthy, herby whiff of garrigue. The wine feels firm, evolved and dry on the palate with a full body and quite tertiary flavors of ripe dark plums and gravelly minerality, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of tobacco, light bretty notes of leathery funk and barnyard, a hint of dried figs and a touch of gamey meat. The overall feel is still pretty stern and structured with the quite high acidity and rather grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and grippy with an aged, tertiary aftertaste of tobacco and ripe cranberries, some wizened red plums, a little bit of stony minerality, light savory notes of meaty umami, dried-fruit hints of raisins and dried dates and a touch of bretty funk.
A nice, serious vintage of Duas Quintas that has pleasantly funky overtones of brett that don't really obfuscate anything, only lend a touch of rustic complexity. However, the overall feel here is starting to get quite old and tertiary, making the wine come across as somewhat tired and raisiny. Structurally the wine shows very little development, but flavor-wise it is starting to get pretty senescent. I guess this might've been on its plateau of maturity some 5-10 years ago, but now it is slowly sliding downhill. High time to drink up, while the wine still offers depth and complexity, not just anonymous old wine flavors. Starting to feel a bit pricey for the quality at 40,11€.
(89 points) - 1994 Ramos Pinto Douro Duas Quintas - Portugal, Douro (31.3.2024)
A blend of Touriga Francesa (45%), Tinta Roriz (40%) and Touriga Nacional (15%) sourced from two almost neighboring estates ("Duas Quintas") in Douro Superior, which are Quinta dos Bons Ares at the altitude of 600 m, and Quinta de Ervamoira at the altitude of 150 to 200 m above sea level. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks. 20% of the wine was aged in old oak casks for 8 months. Bottled in spring 1996. 12,5% alcohol.
Moderately pale and somewhat evolved brick-red color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels sweet, evolved and wonderfully fragrant with moderately tertiary aromas of beef jerky and pipe tobacco, some fried mushroom tones, a little bit of wizened cherry, light pruney tones, a hint of sun-baked earth, a touch of game and a perfumed whiff of dried flowers. The wine feels evolved, dry and velvety on the palate with a full body and complex flavors of game and beef jerky, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of earth, light tobacco notes, a hint of dried figs and a touch of fried mushroom. The overall feel is firm and pretty tightly-knit, thanks to the moderately high acidity and ample, grippy tannins. The finish is evolved, savory and grippy with a complex and quite intense aftertaste of wizened black cherries and beef jerky, some earthy tones, a little bit of tobacco, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of dried figs and a touch of gamey meat stew.
A complex, attractive and still pretty structured Douro red at full maturity. Just as the other 1994 Ramos Pinto reds I've tasted (Duas Quintas Reserva and Quinta dos Bons ares), this is also a superb wine that shows remarkable depth, complexity and intensity. Most likely the wine is on its plateau of maturity and has been there for quite some time, so it doesn't benefit from any additional aging. However, I don't see the wine falling apart anytime soon, so there is no great hurry with this wine, either. Drink or keep. Terrific value at 42€.
(94 points) - 2012 Saints Hills Black - Croatia, Dalmatia, Srednja i južna Dalmacija (31.3.2024)
Often labeled as "Black Dalmatian" or "Black Dalmacija". 100% Plavac Mali from two vineyards: Sv. Roko in Komarna and Sv. Lucia in Dingač. Aged in concrete tanks, barriques and old oak vats. Bottled unfiltered. 15% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat translucent and moderately evolved pomegranate color with aged maroon highlights. The nose feels sweet, powerful and sunny with rich aromas of raisins and dried figs, some plummy tones, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, light blueberry nuances, a hint of boysenberry, a touch of vanilla and a spirituous whiff of alcohol. The wine feels dense, chewy and somewhat heavy on the palate with a full body and intense, ripe and slightly sweet-toned flavors of prunes and raisins, some dried figs, light oaky notes of vanilla and cloves, a little bit of ripe boysenberry, tertiary hints of smoke-cured meat and saddle leather and a touch of farmhouse funk. The high alcohol lends some noticeable heat to the palate. The overall feel is pretty firm and muscular, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and ample, assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is powerful, grippy and quite warm with a long, intense aftertaste of raisins and dried dates, some wizened figs, a little bit of dark pruney fruit, light vanilla notes of oak, hints of boysenberries and blueberry juice and a touch of saddle leather.
A tasty and quite punchy red that feels a bit too ripe and / or aged for its own good. It's hard to assess how pruney the wine has been in its youth - it's not uncommon for Dingač wines to be heavy and raisiny, but less so for Komarna wines - and it's entirely possible that these dried-fruit flavors have developed with age. Nevertheless, the wine still feels a bit too ripe, no matter how it drinks now; the alcohol warmth comes across as quite pronounced and the acidity feels a tad low, while it is still sufficiently high to keep the wine in balance. I guessed this was an aged California Zinfandel, which wasn't that far off, since Plavac Mali is a progeny of Zinfandel and shares many aromatics. All in all, this was a pretty enjoyable wine from the bigger and heavier end, but I think less oak and less ripeness would both benefit the wine greatly.
(88 points) - 2004 Château Tour Saint-Pierre - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (31.3.2024)
Typically a blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Aged for 2 years in French oak barriques and 350-liter casks. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat translucent cherry-red color with an evolved maroon hue and a pale orange rim. The nose feels dry and savory with slightly oxidative aromas of leather and beef jerky, some licorice tones, a little bit of smoke-cured meat, light juicy notes of red plums and blackcurrants, a little bit of sous-bois, a hint of game and a faint leafy touch of herbaceous character. The wine feels dry, firm and silky on the palate with a medium body and harmonious flavors of tart red plums and gravelly minerality, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of forest floor, light crunchy notes of redcurrants and blackcurrants, a hint of tobacco and a touch of old leather. The overall feel retains still good sense of structure, thanks to the rather high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and quite grippy with a somewhat evolved aftertaste of redcurrants, some ripe blackcurrants, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light woody notes of cigar box and pencil shavings, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of forest floor.
A tasty and harmonious Bordeaux at full maturity. Tasting the wine blind, I immediately recognized it as a Bordeaux, but thought it was a bit older - perhaps from the 1990's? - and was surprised to learn that it was a 2004. However, I guess it's not a big surprise that a lesser-known St. Émilion wine from an "ok" vintage at 20 years of age might not be young anymore... Anyways, it feels like the wine is peaking now - perhaps has been there for a while - and doesn't show any signs of decline yet. Drink now or within the next handful of years. Good stuff and really a bargain at just 13€.
(91 points) - 1994 Château Moulin de la Rose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (31.3.2024)
12,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent and quite evolved dried-blood color with a pale rim. The nose is immediately recognizable as an aged Bordeaux with classically styled aromas of wizened blackcurrants and woody notes of pencil shavings, some bell pepper tones, a little bit of old leather, light autumnal notes of leafy forest floor, a smoky hint of chipotle and a touch of dried red plums. The wine feels savory, silky and quite lightweight on the palate with a light-to-medium body and dry, somewhat lean flavors of wizened blackcurrants and old leather, some herbaceous leafy tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light crunchy notes of redcurrants, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of cooked bell pepper. The overall feel is balanced but also quite supple and open-knit with the moderately high acidity and gentle, rather resolved medium tannins. The finish is juicy, dry and gently grippy with a long, evolved aftertaste of wizened blackcurrants, some woody notes of cedar and pencil shavings, light herbaceous bell pepper tones, a little bit of old leather, a hint of tart dark berries and a touch of sous-bois.
An attractive, harmonious and pleasantly evolved Bordeaux at full maturity. I feel this bottle was a bit better than the slightly more volatile one we had a year or two ago. While the wine is nothing that would blow your socks off, it still manages to tick all the correct boxes from the "proper claret" category. If you want a nice, aged Bordeaux, this is definitely a solid choice.
(91 points) - 2018 Somlói Vándor Pince Kabar Nagy-Somló - Hungary, Balaton, Nagy-Somló (31.3.2024)
100% organically grown Kabar. The wine is supposedly from the 2018 vintage, but the label doesn't mention anything about the vintage. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe and sweet-toned with aromas of juicy Golden Delicious apple and quince, some chopped herbs, light creamy tones, a little bit of honeyed richness, sweet hints of apricots and greengage, a woody - almost sawdusty - touch of untoasted wood and a whiff of damp wool. The wine feels firm, crisp and lively on the palate with a medium body and flavors of steely minerality and wet rocks, some ripe lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of fresh apricot, light sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, a hint of creaminess and a touch of waxy funk. The brisk, zippy acidity lends great freshness and energy to the palate. The finish is fresh and crisp with a long, dry aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple and other crunchy white fruits, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of creaminess, light honeyed tones, a sweet hint of greengage and a touch of salinity.
A nice, fresh and mineral Somlói white. However, the overall feel is - quite typical of Kabar - pretty linear and a bit nondescript. I guess this kind of wine would be pretty neutral and underwhelming if it came from other parts of Hungary, but the volcanic soil of Somló lends enough freshness, acidity and minerality to the wine to keep things interesting. This is a solid choice if you are looking for a zippy, mineral white, but otherwise this is maybe a bit too linear and neutral in character. Enjoyable stuff all the same. Maybe the wine might gain some depth and complexity with additional aging?
(90 points) - 2014 Giuseppe Quintarelli Cà del Merlo Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT (31.3.2024)
This is an "appassimento" version of sorts of the regular Quintarelli Valpolicella, made with fruit sourced from a single vineyard, but with a blend that is more or less the same as in Valpolicella: Corvina and Corvinone (55%) with some Rondinella (30%), the remainder (15%) rounded out with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Croatina, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. 50% of the grapes are vinified directly, 50% undergo the appassimento, process, ie. are dried for two months to concentrate the flavors and the sugars. Both the components are fermented spontaneously. When Quintarelli Amarones are racked off the grape skins, the wines for Cà del Merlo undergo the Ripasso process, ie. they are are racked on the Amarone grape skins that still contain some residual sugar, triggering a second fermentation. Once the second fermentation is finished, the wine is racked into old Slavonian oak barrels and aged for approximately 7 years. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 15% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, moderately translucent blood-red color. The nose feels sweet and youthful - almost primary - with aromas of cherry marmalade and ripe black cherry, some plummy tones, a little bit of licorice, light blackberry jam tones, a hint of blueberry, a touch of baking spices and a whiff of sweet VA. The wine feels youthful and rich yet not heavy on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of cherry marmalade and blueberry jam, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of stony minerality, light salty liquorice tones, a savory hint of extracted spice and a touch of dark plummy fruit. The wine is surprisingly high in acidity for such a rich, concentrated wine, whereas the ripe, fine-grained tannins are a bit more supple than I expected. The finish is dry, juicy and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of strawberries and ripe black cherries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of stony minerality, light blackberry nuances, a hint of cassis and a touch of baking spices.
A harmonious and balanced effort for a "Ripasso" - although I wouldn't expect anything less from Quintarelli. The wine was simply screaming "Italy" from the first whiff and just one sip confirmed that this must be an Italian red - very few other countries produce wines with those inimitable cherry notes and especially that streak of sour cherry bitterness. It took us a little while to home in to Valpolicella, but that's probably because nobody ever brings Valpolicella wines to blind tastings! Despite this, the wine had all the Valpolicella wine markers - although the overall style is much closer to an Amarone, due to the sense of power, concentration and high alcohol. I was surprised by the vintage - the wine seemed very much younger than 10 years old, and seeing how 2014 was a rather cold and wet vintage, this wine didn't show any signs of a weak vintage. All in all, a superb wine that is still on an incline and will probably keep aging and improving for many years more. Recommended.
(92 points) - NV Bierbrouwerij Koningshoeven La Trappe Quadrupel - Netherlands, Berkel-Enschot (31.3.2024)
From a 0,75-liter bottle. Lo4A019. Best before January 2022. 10% alcohol.
Quite pale, clear, nutty-brown color with a luminous yellow rim. A large white head that disappears quite quickly. The nose feels fragrant, rather sweet and quite fruity with aromas of banana, some pear, light bready and grainy malt tones, a little bit of developed nuttiness, a hint of peachy stone fruit, a touch of dry phenolic spice and whiff of toffee. The beer feels rich, somewhat evolved and slightly sticky on the palate with a full body and subtly sweet flavors of mushy brown banana, some herby spice, light hazelnut notes, a little bit of phenolic spice, evolved hints of bruised pear and Sultana raisins and a touch of syrupy richness. The carbonation feels very fine and soft. The finish is long, somewhat sweet and slightly evolved with a rather complex aftertaste of syrupy richness and hazelnuts, some grainy malt tones, a little bit of herby hops, light sweeter notes of dried dates and Sultana raisins, a hint of mushy brown banana and a touch of phenolic spice. The hop bitterness feels rather modest.
A classically styled Quadrupel - maybe a tad too sweet and modest in bitterness, as always. The style is surprisingly pale for a Quad, coming across as a slightly darker and sweeter version of Tripel instead (a style that is already quite heavy and sweet). I must admit that the beer seems to have benefited from aging, as this time the brew was a tad more complex compared to my previous experiences with this label. In essence, the beer might have a "best before" date, but as it often is with these high-end brews, it might be an indication of "best after" date instead (at least if the beer is kept properly in a sufficiently cold cellar). I've often said that La Trappe Quadrupel might not be at the same level with the best Trappist Quadrupels, but it is still a nice, hefty brew in its own right. This bottle didn't change that view.
(90 points)
Posted from CellarTracker