Last night our Bordeaux group got together at Bobby Van’s for a Mouton tasting. I didn’t actually own any Mouton, but Frank generously agreed to a trade. I arrived to the round table to find a bubbly waiting, couple whites followed soon after.
2008 Gaston Chiquet Special Club
Almost every time I drink a special club (usually Bara, Michel, or Gimmonet for me) I think I should buy these more. Add Chiquet to the list. Lemon, apple, and sourdough toast. Nicely balanced, fun. B++
2014 Louis Michel Montee de Tonnerre
I liked this a lot though my neighbor did not. Fresh, vibrant, flinty. B+
1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Much more advanced than another recent bottle, OTH and oxidized. C-
Unfortunately we were well into the reds by time appetizers arrived, I wouldn’t recommend ‘86 Mouton and crabcake as a match. Porterhouse went fine with later reds.
Solo
1970 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
I had a pretty good bottle of this a few years ago, but this is past it. Good color, but some caramel/soy on the nose, pruney on palate, and tired clipped palate. C+/C
Second Flight
1985 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
This had a different character than the others tonight, but I liked a lot in a Figeac kind of way. Funky with noticeable (but not offensive to me) barnyard, obvious acids, red fruits with leather and cedar. A-/B+
1986 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Big but with approachable tannins, young black fruit, just developing mocha, cigarbox, and earth notes. Really a beautiful (young) wine. A-/A
Third Flight
1988 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Tannic, lean, I tend to like ‘88 more than most, but this was a little too ‘88 for me. B-
1989 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Plusher style, some lead pencil and tobacco, moderate finish. B+
1990 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Surprising some green notes for a ‘90, but a nice mature midbodied claret if not what one might expect from a 1st in a ripe year. B/B+
Fourth Flight
1995 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Lush and plush with sweet black fruits, nice length, maybe a bit held in reserve. B+/A-
1996 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Tight, structured, just some cassis peeking through, maybe just shut down hard but even allowing for that I thought a bit disappointing compared to the other ‘96 Firsts I’ve had. B+/B
Final Flight
2000 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Young, structured, but pretty approachable. Red and black fruits, a little coffee and spice, funner now than the ‘05 though I think the ‘05 wins on potential. A-/B+
2003 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
The sweetness and ripeness are there, but I’m happy to not find this OTT ripe. Most overt oak, big tannins, moderate finish. B
2005 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Even though this is young and primary, there’s some leather and spice peeking out, a little espresso too. Very full scaled, but nice balance of tannin, acid, and fruit A-/B+
Group voting (3/2/1 format)
1986 29 pts
2000 17 pts
1989 11 pts
2005 5 pts
1985 3 pts
1995 1 pt
Very fun night.
I thought the highs were VERY good, though a couple wines were a little disappointing for their vintage.
Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.