TN: mostly California

A few of us got together for a California themed dinner the other night and had a good time

It was nice to try to so many ‘special occasion’ wines with real enthusiasts.

We were lucky in that everything showed great, and that nothing was tainted.

Our venue struggled though to handle their patrons that night, and it took four hours to conduct the dinner. Normally we are in/out of this place for wine dinners in 2.5-3 hours.

Many of these I’d heard of, but never had, so it was also very educational.

12 Potts “Turf War” [Napa? Sonoma?] I did not get the precise titling of this small lot bottling. I think there’s only a few hundred cases made. It was also my first experience with any of Aaron Potts efforts. This had been breathing for a couple of days, or under gas, and was opening up. Dense, syrupy, 45 seconds of finish. Most of us had never had one of these, and it was pretty much inhaled. It’s a big, modern cult styled cabernet. A- or so on my card. I could not taste any tannin, but I’m told there are plenty enough to age.

09 Kistler Parmalee Hill Stone Flat Vineyard Chardonnay [Napa?] It’s been a long time since anyone treated me to a Kistler chard! Long finish, not heavy, more medium bodied. A very impressive wine, but I’m lucky that I don’t get so much more out of these than I do from more commercial (and cheap/available!) chards. Another A- for us. For those who shared this, thank you.

83 Dominus [Napa] From what I understand 1984 was the first year they released wine, although 83 was actually their first vintage, and only released much later. I had not even known that 83 was available in the retail market. But here it was. If you closed your eyes, it would have been an example of a very fine Bordeaux. Medium bodied, a bit of lightening at the edges, very balanced among all the elements. I thought it was like a great 82 Pomerol. This bottle brought up a lot of discussion of what’s been the greatest Dominus people had tasted. Nearly everyone who’d tried the 1994 thought it was their favorite. solid A for this. Probably better to drink now, rather than hold further.

02 Bond ‘Matriarch’ [Napa] Made in a different style, and I think the first time I’d tried something from the Harlan stable in many many years. This had the most impressive texture of anything we’d tried - rich, lush, plummy. I had not known the labor intensive methods, as well as technology, that goes into these - at a berry by berry level. Very glad to have tried this, super stuff. A- One of those wines which has high levels of tannin I’m told, but I could not taste any. It tasted very youthful to me.

96 Togni [Napa] These take a long time to mature, and I think this is entering a good period now. It’s very balanced, medium bodied, and packed with flavor. It reminds me of a fine 1990 Bordeaux, made with some restraint, and designed to age. Sandalwood on the nose, and a long finish. This and the Dominus are in a much different style than the Pott and Bond. Solid A for this too. I’m hoping the modern Clos du Val’s pick up just a little DNA from their vinous grandfathers here! I think its fine now, but can be held longer if desired.

10 Saxum “Broken Stones” [Paso Robles] My first experience with this producer. Huge 15.1% abv on this. Very powerful opulent nose. Full bodied, even bigger than the Pott. A mostly Syrah blend, in the GSM Rhone camp. It is however not at all like a Cote Rotie or anything. Sweet fruit. Impressive today, but I think would blossom with age. I like older Rhones though. A-[/b] on my Francophile scorecard.

We then moved on to a number of dessert wines.

03 Coutet [Barsac] A honeyed, thicker Coutet. Full, lush, butterscotchy. People often compare 2003 Sauternes to 1990 because of the viscosity. A- for me. I was happy to see this as this estate is one of my 3 favorite sweet Bordeaux. Medium gold in hue, no acid.

03 Clos Haut Peyraguey [Sauternes] I don’t see this very often, maybe the last time I had one was the 2001 a decade or so ago. This is darker, more orange hued, than the Coutet. Low acid, full bodied, some citrus notes. Maybe a B+

91 Newlan Late Harvest Riesling [Napa?] I had never heard/had one of these curiosities. But apprently TomHill had a comment on one. Very little made, probably a byproduct of noble rot, rather than deliberate. The label claims 47.5 Brix, which one of our group says is not possible. Very dark, gooey, and looked like a PX type of sherry. Others liked it, I thought it was a bit too much on the caramel flavors. It’s a B. But glad to have tried it.

Thanks everyone for the great offerings. If people are in the metro Sacramento area, feel free to drop me a line and join us at the next dinner.

It was a great night. I was happy to share the Kistler and Saxum with the crew. The Saxum was fun and explosive. The Dominus was a real treat. The Togni was my wine of the night. It’s in a great place right now and has a perfect mix of upfront fruit and mature wine complexity. Can’t wait to get together with such a nice group of folks.

Honorable mention to the Chateau Coutet that was in a great place and paired very well with the butterscotch and macadamia nut brownie.

Sounds nice. Put me on the list.

Yup, Arv…I had that one not too long ago. Defin itely pretty thick stuff. A product of botrytis. 47.5 is not that touch to attain.
Tom

There’s a few California late harvest Rieslings that have the unctuous fluidity of a Sauternes but still have the pear / peach / citrus / honey taste of a sweeter Riesling. Of course I’m going to mention Arrowood because their Saralee’s Vineyard is fantastic.

EDIT: Just checked two bottles of the Arrowood. The label says the '09 is 36.0 brix, and the more unctuous '06 is 43.0 brix.

In case anyone is interested, here’s the Lab Reports on the two bottles I mentioned above:
AW 06 SLV copy.pdf (2.78 MB)
AW 09 SLV copy.pdf (2.73 MB)