MOSTLY BAROLI GATHERING AT AGGIO - Aggio restaurant, Baltimore (12/4/2014)
Todd T was in town and I travel to Baltimore to further my Barolo education. Aggio cooked a wonderful tasting menu that complemented wines very well.
Champagne
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2004 Bollinger Champagne Grande Année Rosé - France, Champagne
Subtle yet decadent nose of warm red fruits, raspberry, also a hint of ripe yellow fruits, cookie dough and caramel. Incredibly airy, really fine shy mousse that quickly evaporates in the mouth, decadent shy sweet red fruit driven palate impression, and lovely clean finish. Obviously youthful but incredibly tasty. (94 pts.) -
1999 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
Rich ripe yellow fruits, lemon zest, a hint of slightly unripe pineapple, white flowers and mineral. Sweet ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and clean ripe medium finish. Very ripe style, very good concentration and structure. (93 pts.)
Valentino
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1974 Valentino Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The last time I had this wine was three years ago and the impression remains the same. Incredibly dark color for a 40 year old wine. Expressive nose of extremely ripe black fruits that you get in a mature ripe zinfandel, dry black cherry, cherry liqueur, strong iron note, raisin, leather, grilled mushroom, lavender, pine, leather and earth. Exceptional concentration, generous rustic sweet fruits and still noticeable tannins. What is fascinating is that despite so many different elements in the nose, the palate is straightforward. Really impressive and tasty. It will last forever but drinking at the peak. (94 pts.)
78
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1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Medium nose, ripe black fruits, chocolate, cola, anise and iron. Good concentration, sweet dark fruit driven palate impression, warm and round, hollow middle palate and medium to short finish. This bottle seems slightly past its prime. The overall expression is a bit monolithic. (90 pts.) -
1978 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This particular bottle seemed light and delicate, shy red fruits, raspberry, mint, cedar, iron, anise and raw mushroom. Very light palate. Not sure whether this is a correct bottle. However, I really liked the delicate palate and light red fruit driven nose. (91 pts.)
Giacosa and Borgogno
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1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Complex nose displaying decadent sweet red fruits, rose, tree bark, leather, mint, pine needle, iron, licorice, roasted chestnut, truffle and earth. Excellent concentration, decadent red fruit driven palate impression, broad and warm mouthfeel, beautifully layered fruits, bright acidity and lovely seamless long finish. Sweet decadent fruit reminded me the 78 Rionda riserva and pine needle/mineral reminded me the 78 Villero riserva, both drank less than a week ago. This is neither as polished nor as precise as the 78 Riservas but as enjoyable. It improved a lot with air. (97 pts.) -
1985 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Classico Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Very youthful but monolithic nose displaying red fruits, ink, tar and earth. There is a noticeable TCA/dirty damp cellar like note that Gregory attributed to a dirty barrel. The dirty nose is bothersome and clips the finish. (87 pts.)
Bartolo Mascarello
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1982 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Uplifting and energetic nose displaying sour cherry, onion, cranberry, iron and mineral. Very polished palate, crunch red fruits, good mineral presence and lovely long finish. Showed really well. (94 pts.) -
1985 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Much riper and darker than the 82. Black fruits, pine, licorice, mint and mineral. Very good concentration, warm and round dark fruit driven palate impression, nicely integrated tannins and good finish. Most including myself preferred the 82 for the vibrancy. (93 pts.)
Cascina Francia
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1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Feels even more youthful than the 90 Monfortino had less than a week ago but not as precise. Youthful black fruits, a hint of VA/balsaminco that is not bothersome, iron, charred steak and ink. Exceptional concentration, sweet dark fruit driven palate impression, noticeable but sweet tannins and lovely long finish. This is a very youthful wine that is drinking exceptionally well. (96 pts.) -
1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
My contribution. It seemed slightly off with noticeable nail polish/VA note. Very mineral driven wine. MY batch had a noticeable bottle variation. NR (flawed)
Scarpa
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1978 Scarpa Barbaresco Tetti di Neive - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Just like the 85 Borgogno a bit dirty. Very youthful, red and black cherry, tar, chestnut and earth. Very good concentration but damp and dirty palate impression that clips the finish. The dirty note didn’t blow off. Caveat emptor. NR (flawed)
Yquem
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1988 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Served slightly too cold for my palate, intense yellow fruits, apricots, crème brulee, lemon candy and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, exceptional density yet incredibly light and airy. Once again the texture of D’Yquem is very unique. Intense yet perfectly balanced D’Yquem. (98 pts.)
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