Had the 2015 Gonon St Jo for the first time last night (with Asher). Adrian’s note captures it descriptively. We both really really liked it. It’s very good. Except for me it can’t make up in energy and sheer palate impact and flavor what I find it lacks in complexity and even transparency. (This is a big Gonon.) It’s entirely possible, however, we drank the bottle too quickly — over about an hour — to get the full picture. And obviously we were not comparing wines blind. But, off hand, at roughly the same price or maybe even less these days, personally I’d rather have the likes of 2015 Benetiere and Gilles in the cellar. Or 3-5 bottles of 2015 Texier Brezeme Serine VV per one Gonon when it’s released next year. Or backfill certain 2013s still available.
I popped a bottle several months ago and consumed it solo over two nights. It’s Gonon on steroids. I like it, think it’s very good and a crowd pleasure - walking the line between AFWE and ripe/big/bold. I can see how some ight find it a little too much. I do not prefer it to 2013, 2010 or the delicious and transparent 2011. For my palate, 2011 could be drinking best right now, but ten+ years out, I give the nod to 2013 and 2010. Jason, have you had the 2011?
I just popped a 2015 Les Iles Feray after reading your note, curiousity piqued. I popped one some time back on release. I lament the days when I got case allocations of this stuff and it was under $25, and not too long ago, under $20. It was and is a fantastic drinker. This 2015 is the most flavor-packed and dense Les Iles Feray that I have ever had. This does not drink like a second label; I’d line it up with any winery’s main St. Joe. It’s excellent, complex, and yes, quite ripe. It walks the line as well, balancing the ripeness and power with seared meat, iron-inflection, brine and pepper spice. Nobody will think this is anything but Northern Rhone. Like the vein of citrus acid as well. Chewy, chalky, sweet tannins. Damn this is pleasureable, rich but delicious. I could not kill the bottle, but am enjoying what’s before me. Perhaps I should have had it with a grilled ribeye.
We had a choice to drink 2015 Les Iles Feray instead. We wanted to try the St Jo. Maybe next time at the restaurant.
I can’t remember honestly if I had 2011 St Joseph. I know I tried 2009 and 2012, and many earlier vintages, but it’s never been a wine I focused on. (PSA: Last night we were told the 13 is ornery and disjointed right now - a shut down phase.)
This note must have been incepted in my mind, as last night I had a hankering for some Tex-Brez, so I opened a 2010. First hour at cellar temp, was pretty subdued; silky but lacking excitement. As it warmed up with air, wow this thing shot fireworks. Such wonderful bramble and depth. Best showing so far. Chapeau Eric!