TN: Monprivato Vertical

WINE TALK
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MONPRIVATO VERTICAL - Chez Goldberg, Greenwich Village, NYC (2/4/2023)

This was the Saturday evening of La Festa del Barolo. As has become a tradition, Ben and Wendy hosted a group of friends for a wonderful meal and wine dinner.

Photos and more details can be found on my website.

Starter

Flight 1

Steve’s homemade country paté and liverwurst, along with store-bought salumi (prosciutto, speck). Served with homemade baguettes.

  • 1971 Filippo Sobrero & Figli Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Predominantly from Monprivato. Double-decanted at 4:30pm.] Complex nose of forest floor, tar, and sour cherries. Lovely and elegant in the mouth. Juicy, long finish. Really a stunning wine, still in superb shape. (95 points)
  • 1974 Filippo Sobrero & Figli Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about noon.] Weird nose. Not a good bottle. (NR/flawed)
  • 1971 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [This was a leftover from the Gala of La Festa del Barolo the night before. Not sure when it was decanted, but it had been open at least 24 hours.] Lovely, complex perfume. Elegant and expansive in the mouth. A beautiful wine seemingly at its peak. Amazing. (95 points)
  • 1988 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about noon.] Beautiful! Dark and rich. Lots of fruit. So uncharacteristic of the 1988 vintage in Barolo. Surprise of the evening. (94 points)

Flight 2

Homemade pappardelle with mushroom sauce.

Flight 3

  • 1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about noon.] Big bouquet of black fruit, tar, and roses. Still, a huge, young wine, with many years ahead. Seems younger than the last time I had it. A wow wine with a great future. 95-97 (96 points)
  • 1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about 3pm for 2 hours.] OMG, I thought the regular Monprivato was big. This is massive. Loads of black fruit on the nose and palate. It's just as well that I don't own this, since I won't live to taste it at its peak. Tasted again around 11pm. Slowly opening more and more. 97-99 (98 points)

Flight 4

Braised short ribs with polenta, haricot verts.

  • 1997 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about 1pm for 4 hours.] Lovely nose of red fruit, menthol and spice. Lots of sweet fruit and tannin in the mouth. Stunningly long finish. Very impressive for what I've found to be a hit and miss vintage for Barolo. (94 points)
  • 1998 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Opened around 3:30 pm and double-decanted around 6:30pm.] The most forward wine since the 1990. Sweet fruit and spice in the nose. Sweet and spicy in the mouth with delicious long fruit finish. Time to start drinking these. (93 points)

Flight 5

  • 1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about noon.] Gorgeous nose of tar, roses, and loads of fruit. Long, complex. Another wow wine from 1999. (96 points)
  • 2000 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Opened around 4pm, then double-decanted around 7pm.] Muted black fruit nose. Long and tasty, but not the depth or complexity of the last 5 or 6 wines. Still, a tasty beverage to drink over the coming decade. (92 points)
  • 2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    [Double-decanted about noon.] Another great Monprivato. Still big and tight. Needs another decade to fully show its stuff. Cherry nose. Long, sweet, juicy finish. A great way to finish the evening. 95-97 (96 points)

Another glorious evening of great food, friends, and wine. Monprivato is unquestionably one of the Grand Crus of Barolo.

There was also Wendy's fabulous key lime pie.

Posted from CellarTracker

10 Likes
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I love Mascarello Monprivato and love these notes.

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Cheers, what a lineup!
Love Monprivato myself and wanted to ask - have you noticed any shifts in style throughout the decades - or any particular vintages that stand apart?
Ive had most recent vintages and its very much roses, red fruit, tar, while you do mention black fruit once or twice. If I recall correctly the 15 was more darker toned.
Also, in my opinion, Monprivato is relatively quite approachable young - many other Baroli are undrinkable while the seamless, ethereal texture and savoury aromatics do allow to mind less the tannins and acidity… the 2017 was great about a month ago.
In terms of approachability, have you also noticed any changes throughout time?

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Great notes Ken.

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Thanks for the fascinating report, Ken.

1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

[Double-decanted about noon.] Gorgeous nose of tar, roses, and loads of fruit. Long, complex. Another wow wine from 1999. (96 points)

I’m curious where you see this in its evolution – adolescence, early adulthood, middle age? I take it it’s not a crime to drink it now.

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Apologies for the slight hijack, but am also interested for my own stored bottles.

Btw, have had this in about 3 (maybe 4) wine dinners, bottles brought by others, and I was consistently wowed.

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It’s amazing how many corked and otherwise off bottles of the '99 Monprivato are reported on CellarTracker:

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I’ve opened four bottles from a case. One was corked. Two were terrific. One was merely good.

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adolescence is exactly the right word, but maybe more 17 than 12? Anyway, it should drink well for 20 years or more.

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Which vintage?

I have 34 TNs in CT for Mascarello Monprivato and only one corked bottle. I know others have had higher rates.

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1999, in response to @John_Morris’ post immediately above mine.

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I think Mascarello Monprivato is one of the most traditional Barolos, so the style reflects the vintage. So the 1998 was sweet and quite drinkable from release. The 1996 and 2001, not so much.

Also, whether the Ca d’Morissio Riserva was made in that vintage. If not, the Ca fruit goes into the regular Monprivato. The Ca parcel is all Michet, which tends to produce more black fruit. There was no Ca produced in 1998, 1999, or 2000.

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That’s a very interesting observation Ken, thanks for sharing! Is that something you have notice for Michet in general or perhaps mainly related to the plot of Ca d’Morissio?

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Michet in general.

Cappellano’s Pie Franco is also 100% Michet. Often the Rupestris leans toward red fruit while the Franco more black. Still, I had both last fall from 2001 and they were almost indistinguishable.

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