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2013 Cline Cellars Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (19.6.2021)
Deep and concentrated yellow-green color. Dry and rather woody nose with aromas of fresh yellow fruits and just-split oak staves, some cloudberry tones, a little bit of vanilla pod, light sappy notes of herbal greenness, a hint of creamy oak and a sweeter touch of apple jam. The wine is broad, full-bodied and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with flavors of apple jam, vanilla and sweet clove-driven baking spice, some ripe nectarine notes, a little bit of cooked cream and a hint of peach marmalade. The moderately high acidity keeps the sweetness and full body somewhat in check, but the overall feel could use a bit more freshness and acidity. The finish is long, somewhat sweet-toned and rather oak-driven with lush flavors of ripe apricots, creamy oak, some vanilla and cloves, a little bit of pineapple, light stony mineral notes and a sweeter hint of apple jam.
A somewhat balanced and rather oak-driven Cali Chardonnay that is still relatively youthful for its age. This is not a butter bomb in any way, but it nevertheless feels a bit over-the-top with its overbearing oak character. The acidity manages to keep the wine balanced - especially if the wine is served cool enough - but the more the wine opens in the glass, the oakier it becomes. This is just too sweet-toned and oaky for my palate. (81 pts.)
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2018 Lagar de Cervera Albariño Rías Baixas - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (19.6.2021)
100% Albariño from O Rosal and Cambados subregions. The grapes were crushed and cold-soaked for 10 hours before fermentation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures. 15% of the wine underwent MLF after the primary fermentation. Aged in stainless steel tanks with periodical bâtonnage. 12,5% alcohol, 6,45 g/l acidity, 0,38 g/l VA and 24,8 g/l dry extract.
Pale yellow-green color. Very youthful, fragrant and slightly primary nose with aromas of tropical fruits like papaya and Asian pear, some peach candy notes, a little bit of primary banana marshmallow character and light floral notes of rosewater. The overall aroma is somewhat atypical for an Albariño. The wine is crisp, firm and racy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and rather primary flavors of lemony citrus fruits and tart Granny Smith apples, some banana marshmallow, light perfumed notes of rosewater, a little bit of peach candy and a hint of tangy saline minerality. The bracing acidity lends great sense of structure and intensity to the wine. The crisp, racy finish is very mouth-cleansing with its acid-driven flavors of lemony citrus fruits and green apples, some pear, a little bit of key lime, light sweet notes of peach candies, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of stony minerality.
A very nice, crisp and serious Albariño with a very fragrant and perfumed overall character, which I really do not associate with Albariño - truth be told, this wine was so aromatic that if it were served blind, I would think it must be a blend with a not insignificant amount of Muscat in the mix. Nevertheless, this is pretty lovely everyday white with lots of tropical fruit and tons of brisk acidity. At the moment the wine feels a bit too primary for my taste, thanks to its candied notes of banana marshmallows and peach candies, but I can imagine this wine will turn more serious after a few years in a cellar if it just loses its primary qualities. (89 pts.)
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2011 Torre de Oña Rioja lat 42 Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A Rioja red made by Torre de Oña, a brand owned by La Rioja Alta - but the wine can’t be found in the website, so I wonder if this is just a wine made for the Nordic market? 14% alcohol.
Moderately translucent and somewhat evolved black cherry color with an almost completely colorless rim. Sweet, fragrant nose with aromas of ripe red cherries and black raspberries, some vanilla tones, a little bit of strawberry jam, light toasty oak notes, a hint of old leather and a touch of dried figs. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and moderately bitter on the palate with a silky mouthfeel and quite savory flavors of tart lingonberries, somewhat pronounced sour cherry bitterness, some cranberry tones, a little bit of leather, light oaky notes of vanilla and toasty mocha, a sweet hint of strawberry jam and a touch of savory wood spice. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, as the very ripe and soft tannins really do not contribute at all to the structure, only to the texture. The finish is dry, moderately oaky and rather bitter with long flavors of tart lingonberries, sour cherry bitterness, some ripe black raspberries, a little bit of vanilla, light toasty oak notes of mocha, a hint of fragrant new leather and a touch of dried figs.
A decent Rioja Gran Reserva that is enjoyably dry and bitter despite the hot and very dry vintage. However, the oak component feels a bit too pronounced and unintegrated here, lending a rather dominant note of sweet vanilla and mocha oak to the nose and to the taste, and the spicy wood notes seem to accentuate the bitterness of the fruit a bit too much at times. Furthermore, the wine is lacking completely in tannic grip, making the wine feel too soft and silky - this kind of relatively powerful, dry and bitter wine really calls for a little bit of grip, making it feel somewhat one-sided and lacking in balance without any tannic backbone. All in all, I’m not particularly thrilled by this wine - it feels like it needs a lot more age to integrate the woody tones better with the fruit, but the structure really doesn’t call for any further aging. At approx. 20€ - the price at which the wine retails here in Finland - it feels very overpriced for the quality. (85 pts.)
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2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (80%) form 30-yo vines and Garnacha (20%) from old vineyards planted at high altitudes in La Rioja Baja. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel, aged in stainless steel tanks until April 2005. The Tempranillo wines were aged for 36 months in American oak barriques averaging 4 years old and the Garnacha wines were aged for 30 months in 2nd and 3rd use American oak barrels. Blended and bottled in December 2008. 13,6% alcohol, 5,9 g/l acidity, pH 3,62 and 0,81 g/l VA.
Moderately translucent, dark cherry-red color. Sweet-toned, somewhat restrained and quite nuanced nose with reticent aromas of wizened figs and sweet black cherries, some dried aromatic herbs, a little bit of vanilla oak, light oxidative nuances of savory meatiness, a hint of woody oak and a touch of old leather. The wine is dry, firm and moderately full-bodied on the palate with quite powerful flavors of dark plums and sour cherries, some vanilla oak, a little bit of fragrant new leather, light ferrous notes of blood, spicy hints of dried dill and peppery spice and a sweeter touch of ripe red-toned fruit. The overall feel is pretty tightly-knit and structure-driven with the high acidity and ample tannins that at first feel quite ripe and gentle, but the start to pile up on the gums quite quickly, turning the wine relatively stern and grippy. The finish is long, dry and gently bitter with a little bit of alcohol warmth and quite bold flavors of ripe dark plums, sour cherry bitterness, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of vanilla oak and savory wood spice, light leathery notes, a hint of dried dill and a touch of stony minerality.
A still very firm, structured and relatively tightly-knit vintage of Ardanza. The overall feel here seems a bit reticent compared to the bottle I had a few years ago (June 2017), so the wine might be now in some sort of closed phase. The tannins also seemed to have resolved a little bit, but not much - the overall impression is still quite firm and moderately grippy. Although the wine is drinking pretty nicely right now, I really can’t understand for the life of me how somebody could think this is an “old” or “fully mature” Rioja, since the wine is still very similar to a freshly released vintage of Ardanza and is yet to show very little if any evolved qualities - in my books this wine is still brimming with potential for future development and is still decades away from its peak. A wine like this ages on a geological time scale and requires tons of age before it starts to actually exhibit any mature qualities. Still an impressive vintage of Ardanza and with the 2007 vintage this was my favorite in our mini-vertical of Ardanza 2004-2008. A fine wine that can be left in a cellar for ages. (93 pts.)
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2005 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (80%) form 30-yo vines and Garnacha (20%) from old vineyards planted at high altitudes in La Rioja Baja. Fermented and macerated in stainless steel, aged in stainless steel tanks until May 2006. The Tempranillo wines were aged for 36 months in American oak barriques averaging 4 years old and the Garnacha wines were aged for 30 months in 2nd and 3rd use American oak barrels. Blended and bottled in July 2009. 13,7% alcohol, 1,6 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,56.
Moderately translucent, dark cherry-red color. Contrasting the somewhat closed 2004 vintage that was tasted alongside, this wine felt more expressive and solar in quality with sweet-toned aromas of sunny cherries and strawberries, some sweet oak spice, a little bit of vanilla, light oxidative notes of meat stew, a hint of dill, a touch of dried figs and a whiff of new leather. The wine feels ripe, quite open-knit and silky on the palate with a full body and sunny, somewhat sweet-toned flavors of leather, wizened figs and ripe dark plums, some vanilla tones, a little bit of oxidative meat stew, light toasty notes of sweet oak spice and a hint of juicy strawberry. The overall feel is balanced and round, but also a bit soft for an Ardanza, thanks to the moderately high acidity and ripe, well-behaved tannins that contribute more to the texture than to the grip. The lengthy finish feels firm, gently grippy and somewhat on the dry side with slightly evolved flavors of sweet dried figs and strawberries, some vanilla, a little bit of leathery funk, light syrupy oxidative notes, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of allspice.
A pleasantly ripe, sunny and textural Ardanza that surprisingly feels a bit evolved for an Ardanza this “young” - normally these wines at a glacial pace, so it is somewhat odd to see mature, even slightly oxidative notes in an Ardanza barely 15 years old. In our mini-vertical of Ardanza 2004-2008, this was in my books the softest and ripest vintage and also most evolved in quality. The vibrant and accessible style contrasted nicely the more closed and tightly-knit vintage 2004, but at the same time came across as a bit too soft and less impressive. However, some people in the tasting considered this vintage to be very concentrated and and miles away from its peak, whereas I thought this wine was probably the most “ready” vintage - perhaps still another decade away from its apogee, but the most evolved in style and definitely ready to go. A great wine - as Ardanza almost invariably is - but in our mini-vertical this vintage was my least favorite. (90 pts.)
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2007 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (80%) form 30-yo vines and Garnacha (20%) from old vineyards planted at high altitudes in La Rioja Baja. Fermented and macerated for 15 days in stainless steel, aged in stainless steel tanks until March 2008. The Tempranillo wines were aged for 36 months in American oak barriques averaging 4 years old and the Garnacha wines were aged for 30 months in 2nd and 3rd use American oak barrels. Blended and bottled in November 2011. 13,5% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar, 5,7 g/l acidity and pH 3,57.
Deep, dark and moderately opaque blackish-red color with a hint of evolved maroon hue. Relatively dry and earthy nose for an Ardanza, setting it apart from the typical style. Savory, layered aromas of wizened dark fruits, game and tobacco, some spicy notes of vanilla and allspice, light sweeter notes of ripe black cherries, a little bit of new leather, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of incense. The wine is dry, dense and savory on the palate with a moderately full body and flavors of fresh dark plums, pipe tobacco, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of new leather, light notes of vanilla and peppery spice, a sweeter hint of dried figs and a touch of gamey meat. The overall feel is quite structured and tightly-knit for an Ardanza with the high acidity and ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, moderately grippy and subtly warm with a dry aftertaste of sour cherries and fresh dark plums, tobacco, some wizened figs, light oaky notes of vanilla and savory wood spice, a little bit of sweet black cherry, a hint of earth and a touch of licorice root.
In our mini-vertical of Ardanza 2004-2008 this wine stood apart from the typical style of the label with its relatively savory and somewhat earthy overall style, which contrasted the somewhat fruitier, softer and a bit more vanilla-driven overall character of other vintages - a quality that was echoed by 2007 LRA Gran Reserva 904. This vintage was relatively firm, sinewy and structure-driven effort in which the overall emphasis wasn’t that much of the ripe fruit and vanilla oak, but instead on dry and more earthy flavors and still quite tightly-knit and relatively youthful structure, making it feel more “old-school” than the other vintages, which seemed a bit more “polished”, to varying degrees. Some attendees in the tasting commented how the lack of ripe fruit here seemed to promise less aging potential than the other vintages, but I thought exactly the opposite: unlike the softer and fruitier vintages (2004, 2005, 2008), this vintage seemed to be slightly less accessible at the moment, but instead promising more aging potential than the other vintages we tasted. Although 2007 as a vintage wasn’t considered to be of as high quality as the others, I wouldn’t be surprised if this turned out to be the best vintage in the long run. A terrific wine that is going to get so much better with further aging. Drink the surrounding vintages and keep hands off of these bottles. (94 pts.)
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2008 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (80%) form 30-yo vines and Garnacha (20%) from La Pedriza vineyard planted at high altitude in La Rioja Baja. This is the first vintage that was made completely from fruit sourced from own vineyards (traditionally at least a part of Garnacha has been purchased). Fermented and macerated in stainless steel, aged in stainless steel tanks until March 2009. The Tempranillo wines were aged for 36 months in American oak barriques averaging 4 years old and the Garnacha wines were aged for 30 months in 2nd and 3rd use American oak barrels. Blended and bottled in March 2013. 13,5% alcohol, 1,8 g/l residual sugar, 6,1 g/l acidity and pH 3,56.
Deep, dark and only very slightly translucent ruby red color with a subtly evolved maroon hue. Open and rather sweet-toned but also slightly restrained nose with nuanced aromas of ripe figs and sweet black cherries, some pruney tones, a little bit of leather and meaty character, light oaky notes of vanilla and cedar, a lifted hint of VA and a touch of cloves. The wine is ripe and silky but also pretty dry and more medium-bodied rather than full-bodied on the palate. Intense flavors of sour cherries and tart lingonberries, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of tobacco, light sweet notes of black cherries and prunes, oaky hints of vanilla and cedar and a touch of bitter woody spice. The overall feel is enjoyably structured and sinewy, thanks to both very high acidity and very ample but also quite ripe tannins that bring nice firmness to the mouthfeel and slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is quite dry, moderately grippy and wonderfully long with quite complex flavors of tart red plums and crunchy cranberries, some sweet ripe figs and pruney notes, a little bit of leather, light oaky notes of vanilla and cedar, a slightly bitter hint of savory wood spice and a touch of jammy red fruit.
A very balanced, classically built and thoroughly textbook Ardanza. The overall feel is slightly drier and more structure-driven than in vintages 2004 and 2005, but contrasting to the dry and quite tightly-knit vintage 2007, this wine feels slightly softer and sweeter. Contrasting this bottle to the one I had a few years ago when the wine was just released (September 2017), I felt the vanilla nuances had integrated a little bit with the fruit, but the overall impression was still rather woody - however, that is something that can be expected of Ardanza. All in all, the wine shows terrific balance between the fruit, the structure, the oak and the overall intensity. Seeing how very little the wine had aged in 4 years, I expect it to continue to improve for many more years, even decades. Although the wine can be drunk just fine at the moment, I doubt it will show its best until a few decades from here. A very promising vintage by all accounts. (93 pts.)
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2010 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 18 days in stainless steel tanks. The alcoholic fermentation was followed by MLF, which took almost 100 days to finish. Aged for 4 years (from March 2011 to March 2015) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in July 2015. 13,5% alcohol, 5,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,55.
Youthful, luminous and somewhat opaque dark ruby color that turns to cherry red towards the rim. Very ripe, sweet-toned and almost jammy nose with aromas of blackcurrant jam, cooked meat, some cherry juice, light spicy notes of vanilla and cloves, a little bit of ripe blueberry, a hint of licorice, a touch of stony minerality and a whiff of diacetyl - which seems to grow as the wine opens in the glass - lending a sweet touch of caramel and butterscotch to the wine. The overall aroma here is noticeably different to any other vintage of 904 we had in our vertical tasting (1989-2010), thanks to the jammy qualities and the diacetyl component. The wine feels firm, dry and medium-bodied on the palate, but at the same time surprisingly polished and glossy. There are quite lush flavors of ripe blackcurrants and wild strawberries, vanilla oak, some sweet notes of raspberry jam and wizened dark plums, a little bit of meaty umami, light mulled wine nuances of cloves and Christmas spices, a hint of fresh bilberry and a touch of diacetyl, lending a nuance of butterscotch to the wine. Despite the noticeably ripe and even somewhat jammy taste, the wine is impressively structured, thanks to its wonderfully high acidity and ample, assertive tannic structure. The finish is ripe, rich and quite grippy with long, powerful flavors of black cherries and ripe blackcurrants, some licorice, a little bit of sweet mulled wine notes of vanilla and cloves, light diacetyl nuances of butterscotch and caramel, a hint of prunes and a touch of toasty mocha oak.
An impressively structured, concentrated and powerful vintage of 904 with an understated yet noticeable overtone of diacetyl, which seems to accentuate the ripe blackcurrant notes and lends a sweet, slightly jammy and somewhat creamy butterscotch quality to the taste, making this vintage feel noticeably different to all the other vintages we had in our vertical. The overall feel is surprisingly glossy and sweet with a more blackcurrant-than-red-fruited overall taste, making this vintage have a somewhat Ribera del Duero quality to it. I hope the wine is just too young for its own good and caught in a poor moment; structurally the wine is very impressive due to its great acidity and firm tannic backbone and obviously it is built for the long run, but flavor-wise it’s quite hard to recognize that this wine is supposed to be the same wine as the preceding vintages we tasted - the style was so different and honestly not that much to my liking. I really hope we just opened the bottle way too early and +10 years of aging might make the wine to drop its baby fat and get its game better together. (88 pts.)
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2007 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks. The alcoholic fermentation was followed by MLF, which took almost 100 days to finish. Aged for 4 years (from April 2008 to April 2012) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in February 2009. 13,5% alcohol, 1,5 g/l residual sugar, 6,5 g/l acidity and pH 3,56.
Brooding, deep and moderately opaque blackish-red color with a deep ruby rim. Somewhat sweet-toned and slightly evolved nose that feels very true to the 904 style: complex aromas of wizened dark plums and dried figs, some new leather, light notes of blueberries and red cherries, a little bit of classic Rioja elements of dill and vanilla, sweeter hints of cooked strawberries and raspberry liqueur and a lifted touch of balsamic VA. Lots of things going on here. Contrasting the sweetish nose, the wine is surprisingly dry, stern and tightly-knit on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of fresh red plums, meaty umami, some blueberry and wild strawberry tones, a little bit of tobacco and leather, light sweeter notes of ripe black cherry, an oaky hint of cedar and a sweet touch of vanilla. The overall feel is quite sinewy and muscular, thanks to the noticeably high acidity and ample, rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry and moderately tannic, but also rich and juicy with a long aftertaste of tobacco, vanilla and juicy black cherry, some meaty notes of umami, a little bit of - perhaps bretty - leather and farmhouse funk, light fruity notes of wild strawberries and fresh bilberries, an evolved hint of dried figs and a touch of pipe tobacco.
A very impressive and promising vintage of this label: the nose feels like a textbook 904 with its vanilla-tinted Rioja aromas, but on the palate the wine turned out to be noticeably drier, more acid-driven and stylistically quite tightly-knit in contrast to the preceding vintages. Just like Ardanza 2007, also this wine felt relatively youthful and perhaps a bit closed at the moment, but at the same time very promising. While both this and Ardanza 2007 seem to hold much promise for the future, Ardanza felt more accessible and rewarding at the moment, while this 904 was more brooding and only developing in the right direction. For the fans of classic, acid-driven and structured Rioja reds, this is a wine that is going to be something truly great with enough wait. Most likely it will take another decade or two before this vintage reaches its plateau of maturity, but seeing how this wine has improved since my last taste (September 2017), I have no doubts this is a great old-school vintage of 904 in the making. Highly recommended. (93 pts.)
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2005 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 15 days in stainless steel. Aged for 4 years (from March 2006 to March 2010) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in November 2010. 13,5% alcohol, 1,4 g/l residual sugar, 5,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,61.
Surprisingly youthful appearance for its age; dark, luminous and moderately translucent ruby core that turns to pale raspberry towards the rim. Rich, quite sweetish and relatively dark-toned nose with ripe aromas of wizened dark plums and ripe black cherries, some meaty notes, a little bit of licorice, light herbal notes of dill and dried aromatic herbs, oaky hints of vanilla and toasty mocha and a touch of savory wood spice. Contrasting the previous 904 vintages we’ve had in the tasting (1989-2004), this wine feels sweeter and fuller in style with more noticeable ripeness and quite intense flavors of black cherries and wizened figs, some toasty mocha oak, light whiskey notes of vanilla, a little bit of meaty umami, light licorice tones, a hint of dill and an evolved touch of beef jerky. Despite the ripeness and slightly sweeter overall taste, the wine is nevertheless pretty firm and structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and quite assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is ripe, rather grippy and very lengthy with powerful and somewhat sweet-toned flavors of sweet black cherries and prunes, some toasty mocha oak, a little bit of meaty umami and charred game, light notes of dill, a hint of vanilla and other sweet spicy notes of oak and a touch of ripe black cherry.
Contrasting the previous vintages of 904, this 2005 was markedly different in style, suddenly showing more ripeness, weight and concentration than any other vintage. While you could taste that all the wines were cut from the same cloth, the fruit flavors were definitely from the darker end of the spectrum, contrasting the typically more red-toned fruit of 904, and the oak influence was much more noticeably to the fore, showing not only the classic notes of vanilla and savory old wood spice, but also darker-toned flavors of mocha and sweet, toasty oak spice. I wonder whether this wine is just aging even more slowly than 904 normally is, coming across as much more youthful than the other vintages, or if the winemaking here has changed somewhat? At least this wine was noticeably more structured and muscular than Ardanza 2005, which was a ripe but also a surprisingly soft and mellow vintage compared to the other Ardanzas. All in all, this was a big and impressive vintage 904, but not entirely to my taste - it felt sweeter and more concentrated than what I’ve grown to expect from the wine. It might be just the vintage, but this was more about clumsy blockbuster expression than finesse in my books. I hope the wine will drop its baby fat and pick up some tertiary complexity with further aging. (90 pts.)
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2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 14 days in large oak vats, then moved into stainless steel tanks for MLF. Aged for 4 years (from January 2005 to January 2009) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in February 2009. 13% alcohol, 1,2 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,47.
Deep, medium-to-relatively little translucent blackish-red color with a hint of evolved brick-red hue. Surprisingly restrained nose for a 904 with understated yet complex aromas of ripe figs and wizened dark plums, some toasty oak notes, a little bit of vanilla, light lifted notes of sweet VA, smoky and perhaps bretty hints of burnt hair and farmhouse funk and a touch of dill. The wine is dry, firm and medium-bodied on the palate with relatively fresh and slightly funky flavors of black raspberries and ripe figs, meaty or gamey umami, some funky notes of leather saddle and horse stable, a little bit of vanilla, light crunchy notes of sour red plums, a lifted hint of balsamic VA and a touch of raisiny fruit. This vintage seems to lack some weight and concentration that were present in the surrounding vintages (2001, 2005) and the overall feel is slightly more funky than is typical for a 904. The overall structure is quite tightly-knit, thanks not only to the atypically high acidity (pH below 3,5!) but also to the medium tannins that at first feel quite resolved and mellow, but slowly pile up on the gums, turning the wine quite grippy. The finish is moderately grippy with slightly reticent flavors that feel both slightly sweeter and more umami-rich than the midpalate. A long aftertaste of ripe figs and raisiny fruit, leather saddle, some gamey meat, a little bit of vanilla, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of tart lingonberry and a smoky touch of cigar. The VA lends a nice touch of balsamic lift to the end of the aftertaste.
At first this 2004 felt an underperformer in out 1989-2010 vertical of 904 Gran Reserva, coming across as lighter in both body and taste. However, it only takes a bit of coaxing to understand that there is more to this vintage than is obvious from the first impression; the wine whispers rather than sings. It is definitely less flashy than 904 normally is - just as Ardanza 2004 was compared to the other vintages - but it is possible that the wine is just in a slump now and needs more years to come around. And while the wine might be a bit lighter in body, it is definitely not lacking in complexity or structure. As a whole, the wine might not be as impressive as 904 normally is, but there’s still potential for this wine to improve noticeably with further aging - although I must point out that the wine feels slightly funkier and a bit more volatile to an average 904, so people who are not so keen on these rustic qualities in their wines, you are warned. (91 pts.)
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2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 14 days in large oak vats, then moved into stainless steel tanks for MLF. Aged for 4 years (from February 2002 to May 2006) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in June 2004. 12,7% alcohol, 3.5 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,62.
Moderately translucent and surprisingly youthful dark cherry-red color (for a 20-yo wine) with a subtly evolved maroon hue. Somewhat restrained and moderately evolved nose with layered, fine-tuned aromas of sweet wizened figs, ripe boysenberries and cooked strawberries, some meaty notes, a little bit of sun-baked earth, light Rioja notes of dill, vanilla and pipe tobacco, a hint of sun lotion and a sweet touch of balsamic VA. The overall bouquet is wonderfully seductive, but also slightly restrained compared to the surrounding vintages of 904. The wine feels dry, firm and surprisingly youthful on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of ripe red plums and tobacco, some tart notes of lingonberries, light bitter sour cherry tones, a little bit of dill and vanilla, a hint of blood orange and a savory, umami-rich touch of gamey meat. The overall feel is very balanced, but also quite round and gentle for a 904: although the wine is high in acidity, the tannins feel surprisingly gentle and textural and the fruit has a certain plush softness to tit. The finish is very long, rich and savory with intense, layered flavors of gamey meat and tobacco, old leather, some sour red plums, a little bit of dried cranberry, light leathery notes, a tangy hint of salinity and evolved nuances of savory wood spice and dried dill.
A harmonious, complex and wonderfully umami-rich vintage of 904. Overall the wine feels like it is slowly inching towards its plateau of maturity, but has still long way to go. Contrasting to the 1989 and 1998 vintages that were tasted alongside, this vintage felt slightly softer in comparison; especially after the moderately structured 1998 vintage, this felt quite gentle in comparison. However, the richness and the depth of fruit here make up for the slightly softer structure, making the wine feel impressively nuanced and promising good potential for future development. The wine is drinking wonderfully right now, but most likely it will continue to improve for many years more. All in all, a delightful vintage of 904 that carries the ripeness typical of the vintage with grace and shows wonderful sense of balance, depth and complexity. (93 pts.)
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1998 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 14 days in large oak vats, then moved into stainless steel tanks for MLF. Aged for 4 years (from December 1999 to spring 2004) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in April 2004. 12,6% alcohol, 6,07 g/l acidity, 0,91 g/l VA and 30,9 g/l dry extract.
Developed and slightly translucent maroon-hued dried blood color with a thin, orange rim. Evolved, savory and somewhat smoky nose with aromas of gamey meat and pipe tobacco, some sweeter notes of dried figs, a little bit of leathery funk, light raisiny notes, oaky hints of vanilla and savory old wood spice and a touch of dill. With some air the nose gains a bit more sweetness as the dried-fruit aromas gain a bit more prominence. The wine is dry, moderately evolved and somewhat concentrated by the age with a moderately full body and complex, quite mature flavors of gamey meat and umami, pipe tobacco, some dried-fruit notes of dried figs and wizened sour cherries, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of leathery funk. At first there’s only a barely noticeable undercurrent of dill and vanilla oak, but these notes start to emerge slowly as the wine opens. The wine still retains great sense of structure, but it relies more on the very high acidity than on the quite resolved tannins that contribute more to the texture than to the grippy structure. The finish is long, gently grippy and rich in developed umami notes with complex, mature flavors of meat stew and dill, tobacco, some old leather, a little bit of ferrous blood, light evolved nuances of soy sauce and beef jerky, dried-fruit hints of wizened cherries and dried dates and a tart touch of ripe lingonberry.
A delicious, harmonious and beautifully evolved vintage of 904. The overall feel here is relatively evolved - this vintage shows so much of those savory, matured nuances that the 1989 vintage that was tasted alongside felt almost more youthful than this vintage. However, in comparison this vintage shows more sense of ripeness, concentration and structure. It’s hard to assess whether this wine is now at its peak, or if it is going to develop from here - aromatically the wine feels fully mature, but structurally there seems to be still some room for evolution - but I doubt one is going to lose much if the wine is drunk now. Although the wine is drinking nicely right now, I’d wager it can be easily kept for another decade or longer. All in all, this is pretty consistent with the previous bottle of 1998 LRA 904 I had three years ago, but perhaps showing a bit better this time with more depth and intensity of fruit. A fine old Rioja by all accounts. (94 pts.)
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1989 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo aka. Carignan and Graciano (10%). Fermented in large oak vats over 8 months. Aged for 4 years (from June 1990 to June 1994) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in July 1994. 12,5% alcohol, 5,6 g/l acidity, 0,85 g/l VA and 26,3 g/l dry extract.
Moderately translucent and rather evolved maroon color with a pale orange rim. Wonderfully fragrant, evolved and complex nose with intoxicating aromas of wizened cranberries, meat stew and dill, old leather-bound books, some vanilla, a little bit of new leather, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, dried-fruit hints of raisins and dried dates and a touch of farmhouse funk. The wine is dry and firm yet silky on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and savory, tertiary flavors of sour cherries, meat stew, some wizened cranberries and dried lingonberries, a little bit of dill, light notes of tobacco, savory hints of new leather and gamey meat and a touch of vanilla oak. The structure relies mostly on the acidity as the ample tannins feel fully resolved and mainly contribute to the silky texture, not to the structure. The remarkably persistent finish is dry, complex and silky with very gentle tannic grip and a savory aftertaste of sour cherries, dried cranberries, beef jerky, some leather saddle notes, a little bit of tobacco and meat stew, light dried-fruit notes of raisins and wizened figs, a hint of vanilla and a touch of tertiary umami character.
A beautiful, harmonious and wonderfully classic 904 caught in a perfect spot. The wine is slowly starting to get tertiary and virtually all the tannins seem to have melted away, resulting in a wine that retains the hallmarks of a great 904 - vibrant, dry red-toned fruit, high acidity and a balanced backdrop of vanilla oak - but also sports tons of mature complexity that has only contributed to the depth of flavor without overwhelming any of the vibrant fruit qualities. This is really a textbook example why one should keep on aging these wonderful wines. I’d say the wine is now on its plateau of maturity - and has been there for some time - and I doubt the wine continues to improve from here. Most likely it will keep good for years, perhaps even for a decade - or longer - but the only direction the wine is going to go from here is down. Drink or keep. (95 pts.)
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NV C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Clarete 3 Año - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (19.6.2021)
The exact age of the wine is unknown, but it was sold as a 1950’s bottle. It is an NV bottle aged for approximately 3 years. If Clarete meant the same thing back then as it does now, it is a missing link between a rosé and a red wine, i.e. a red wine made with a not insignificant portion of white grapes in the blend. No mention of ABV% in the label.
Evolved, fully translucent rusty red color with a deep brick-red core and a limpid, straw-yellow rim. Very evolved, savory and rather meaty nose with aromas of roasted spices, some wizened red plums, a little bit of old leather, light dill notes, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and a touch of beef jerky. The wine is dry, savory and quite acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and flavors of tart lingonberries, some wizened cranberries, a little bit of rusty metallic character, light bitter notes of sour cherries, a hint of leather saddle and a touch of stony minerality. The overall feel is balanced with the high acidity and a slightest touch of tannic grip. The finish is dry, savory and long with a subtle hint of tannic grip and a complex, evolved aftertaste of gamey meat, tart lingonberries, some wizened cranberries, light leathery notes, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and a touch of smoke.
A very evolved Rioja red (or Clarete) that is still remarkably alive given its age. Sure, the wine feels very tertiary and the first signs of oxidation have started to creep in, but the wine is still in an outstanding condition and it doesn’t taste just like an anonymous old red wine with lots of age, but instead shows good Rioja typicity. Pretty lovely stuff that manages to offer lots of pleasure even at +60 years of age. Wow! (91 pts.)
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going to sleep soon. But yeah, my circadian rhythm is a bit tardy - I prefer to go to sleep late and wake up as late as possible!![[wow.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/7/7d450e9830889c8943b674446a21b7254cad657e.gif "wow"){kind=small}
For the most part, I thought the wines were still quite young, the 1989 being now fully mature and the 1998 approaching full maturity with some room for evolution. With 2004 and 2005 I thought they both were still quite young at the moment and not really showing their best:
