I guess if anybody knows anything about Rioja, they must know La Rioja Alta, one of the most famous wineries in the region.
The winery was founded in 1890 when five Basque and Riojan families pooled together some of their vineyards located in the Rioja Alta region and hired a French winemaker, one monsieur 'Vigier*, to make some “Bordeaux-style” wines after phylloxera had wreaked havoc on the French vineyards. The first wine he made was Gran Reserva, which later gave name to their legendary 890 Gran Reserva.
In 1904, Don Alfredo Ardanza, one of the LRA founders, suggested that his Bodegas Ardanza could be merged with La Rioja Alta. With this merger LRA acquired some premium vineyards in the Rioja Alta region, enabling them to craft even better wines. To commemorate this leap in quality, the later on created a “second flagship” wine; 904 Gran Reserva.
In late 2024 we had a tasting to see what all the fuss was about this 1904 vintage. To give some perspective, we also included a bunch of other vintages of GR 904 - and one GR 890 as well.
In addition to these LRA wines, we also had a blind introductory white from Italy (which I managed to identify quite quickly and easily) and after the tasting a handful of Iberian blinds from the cellars of the attendees - that fizzy Bageiras red came from my stash.
One observation I made in this tasting: I’m not sure LRA 904’s are built for the really long haul. Sure, some exceptional vintages have normally stayed fine for remarkably long periods of time, but based on my previous experience, I’ve always thought that 20-35 years from the vintage is more or less the sweet spot for LRA GR 904 - most of the 1990’s bottles I’ve tasted have still been fine, but anything older than that and it’s a crapshoot. This tasting did nothing to change my mind about for how long one should age these wines.
- 2013 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco Terlano Riserva Vorberg - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano (25.10.2024)
The grapes are harvested from the Cru Vorberg. Fermented in old 3000 to 7000-liter oak casks, full MLF, aged for 12 months in oak casks. 14% alcohol, 3 g/l residual sugar and 6,1 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Medium-deep and somewhat concentrated lemon-yellow color. The nose feels sweetish, nuanced and somewhat concentrated with aromas of honey and beeswax, some persimmon, a little bit of cantaloupe, light apple jam tones, a hint of mineral spice and a touch of ripe apricot. The wine feels firm, expressive and quite concentrated on the palate with a rather full body and intense, focused flavors of acacia honey, some passion fruit and ripe pineapple, light apricot tones, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of apple jam and a touch of beeswax. The high acidity makes the overall feel impressively fresh and structured despite the richness and sense of concentration. The finish is firm, long and concentrated with a dry, focused aftertaste of persimmon and beeswax, some cantaloupe tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light juicy apricot nuances, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of herby spice.
An impressive powerhouse of Pinot Blanc that is superb already now, yet showing surprisingly little age for its 11 years of age - apart from that wonderful sense of richness and concentration these wines develop as they evolve. Although the wine doesn't feel super-young anymore, it is obvious that there is still a lot of mileage in the tank. The wine can be drunk now, but I'm sure this will continue to evolve and improve yet for another decade or two - and keep for even longer. This is an amazing vintage of Vorberg that will make beautiful old bones. Very highly recommended.
(94 points) - 2010 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 18 days in stainless steel tanks. The alcoholic fermentation was followed by MLF, which took almost 100 days to finish. Aged for 4 years (from March 2011 to March 2015) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in July 2015. 13,5% alcohol, 5,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,55.
Somewhat translucent and slightly evolved cherry red color with a faint brick-red hue. The nose feels rich, dark-toned and somewhat sweetly-fruited with aromas of strawberries, black cherries and boysenberries, some vanilla, light notes of dried dill, a little bit of toasty oak spice, a hint of developed meaty character, a touch of sweet smoke and a faint whiff of licorice root. The wine feels dry, firm and quite youthful on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tart cranberries and red plums, some sweeter darker-fruited tones, a little bit of vanilla, light nuances of dill, a hint of sweet, toasty oak spice and a faint lactic touch of diacetyl. The overall feel is pretty structure-driven with its high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, long and somewhat grippy with a crunchy aftertaste of tart cranberries and red plums, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light vanilla and dill tones, a hint of earth and a faint touch of diacetyl.
Last time when we tasted the wine some three years ago, it felt very sweet-toned, glossy and almost jammy due to its elevated levels of diacetyl. You could taste that there was a tiny bit of diacetyl in this bottle, too, but it felt much more modest and understated here, not distracting in a similar way. I didn't care for that previous bottle, but conversely this bottle was a pretty nice effort; still quite youthful, but also showing good sense of balance and depth of flavor. The tannins seemed to have slightly resolved over the few years, or the wine felt softer and a bit less grippy or assertive for some other reason this time. All in all, this is a nice, fresh and harmonious vintage of 904 that drinks nicely now and continues to evolve and improve for a good number of years more - as long as the level of diacetyl stays in check.
(91 points) - 2004 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 14 days in large oak vats, then moved into stainless steel tanks for MLF. Aged for 4 years (from January 2005 to January 2009) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in February 2009. 13% alcohol, 1,2 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,47.
Deep, somewhat translucent blackish cherry red color with a hint of evolved brick-red hue. The nose feels a bit understated but also nuanced, savory and quite classically styled with layered aromas of wild strawberries and red plums, some vanilla, light meaty nuances, a little bit of dried dill, a hint of old wood, a brambly touch of ripe black raspberry and a sweeter whiff of dried fruits. The wine feels somewhat understated but also enjoyably elegant and airy on the palate with a medium body and dry flavors of crunchy cranberries and sour cherries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of leathery funk, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of dried dill and a touch of old oak. The structure seems to rely much more on the fresh, bright and quite incisive acidity than on the somewhat open-knit medium tannins. The finish is long, dry and somewhat grippy with a crunchy, layered aftertaste of cranberries and wild strawberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of old leather, light savory notes of meaty umami, hints of woody oak spice and vanilla and a touch of dried dill.
Just like I wrote about this wine the last time - some three years ago - I find that this particular vintage is one that whispers rather than sings. LRA's 904 is typically quite bold and occasionally even somewhat brash Rioja, but this vintage seems to be surprisingly airy, delicate and poised for the label. It might come across as somewhat thin next to a bigger and more concentrated wine, but it isn't lacking in flavor - there is even some intensity and persistence, although the wine never once comes across as particularly in-your-face. Surprisingly enough, I found the bottle we previously tasted somewhat different - it had more obvious toasty oak tones, but it also had a bit more of bretty funk as well. This wine didn't exhibit toasty oak tones as much, and even the vanilla nuances were relatively subtle - especially on the palate. There was a tiny bit of bretty leather, but nowhere as near as before. Even though I like funky and rustic wines, I admit I found this bottle a bit more elegant and enjoyable than the one we had before. Nice stuff, recommended.
(93 points) - 2001 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented and macerated for 14 days in large oak vats, then moved into stainless steel tanks for MLF. Aged for 4 years (from February 2002 to May 2006) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in June 2004. 12,7% alcohol, 3,5 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,62.
Deep, moderately translucent and somewhat dark cherry-red color - surprisingly youthful appearance for a +20 yo wine. The nose feels ripe, expressive and somewhat concentrated with quite intense aromas of dark fruits and sweet black cherries, some smoky tones, a little bit of licorice, light vanilla nuances, a hint of juicy strawberry, a touch of dried dill and a faint whiff of blackcurrants. The overall impression is very similar to the 2004 vintage - only somewhat more open, expressive and more concentrated here compared to the slightly understated aromatics of the 2004. The wine feels dark-toned, quite ripe and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of red plums, ripe blood orange and fresh wild strawberries, some tobacco, light licorice notes, a little bit of dill, a hint of new leather and a touch of toasty oak spice. The structure seems to rely quite evenly on the fresh acidity and the firm, moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, savory and somewhat grippy with an intense aftertaste of red plums and wild strawberries, some licorice tones, a little bit of vanilla, light nuances of dill, evolved hints of earth and beef jerky and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A wonderfully serious, even somewhat concentrated and very promising vintage of the 904 that is still surprisingly youthful for its age. This was my third time tasting the wine, and my impression was very similar with the first bottle I had tasted in 2021 - the more recent bottle (tasted in 2022) seemed a bit more rustic and slightly more evolved compared to the other two wines. While those two wines were different, I thought they were on par with each other in terms of quality - just somewhat different from each other. This bottle, on the other hand, seemed to perform even better than either of the wines I've had before. This is probably the best young vintage ("young" here meaning post-millennium) of the 904, and even if the wine is drinking really well right now, I can see it evolving and improving for at least another decade, or even more. Very highly recommended.
(94 points) - 1997 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented in large oak vats for 12 days, then moved into stainless steel tanks for MLF. Aged for 4 years (3/1998-4/2002) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old, but includes some new barrels as well. 13,2% alcohol, 6,24 g/l acidity and 0,93 g/l VA.
Deep, dark and rather opaque blackish-red color with a somewhat evolved mahogany hue. The nose feels smoky, evolved and rather savory with quite intense aromas of wizened black cherries, some pipe tobacco, light leathery tones, a little bit of ripe figs, a hint of dried dill and a touch of sun-baked earth. The wine feels dry, firm and moderately evolved on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of wizened black cherries and tart cranberries, some dried dill, light ferrous notes of blood, hints of vanilla and leather and a touch of crunchy red plum. The overall feel is pretty sinewy and structure-driven with the high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is lively, crunchy and somewhat grippy with an intense, dry and lengthy aftertaste of tart lingonberries and sour cherries, some dried cranberries, a little bit of earth and leather, light notes of dried dill, a hint of wizened ripe figs and a tertiary touch of meaty character.
A tasty, firm and harmonious 904 approaching full maturity. There might still be a little bit of room for further improvement, I but I suspect any evolution is going to be quite minimal - apart from the eventual decline, naturally. This was miles better than the prematurely aged and quite tired bottle we tasted back in 2016, but still not on par with the 2001 and 2004 vintages we tasted at the same time. A fine wine all the same, and a rather classic example of the 904 - not too big, definitely not light or wimpy, showing classic Rioja aromatics of red-toned fruits, leather and dill. Nice.
(92 points) - 1989 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo aka. Carignan and Graciano (10%). Fermented in large oak vats over 8 months. Aged for 4 years (from June 1990 to June 1994) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in July 1994. 12,5% alcohol, 5,6 g/l acidity, 0,85 g/l VA and 26,3 g/l dry extract.
Medium-deep and moderately translucent brick-red color. The nose feels surprisingly understated with quite reticent and moderately tertiary aromas of wizened red fruits, some earthy tones, a little bit of dried dates, light leathery notes, a hint of fried mushrooms, a touch of dried dill and a faint oxidative whiff of soy sauce. The wine feels silky, somewhat mellow and quite tertiary on the palate with a medium body and somewhat restrained flavors of sweet wizened dark fruits, some dried figs, a little bit of old leather, light notes of dill, a hint of mushroomy funk and a touch of tart lingonberry. The overall feel is on the firm side yet quite gentle with the moderately high acidity and quite ample yet still rather resolved tannins that still pack some grip, but contribute more to the silky texture. The finish is long, mellow and somewhat grippy with an evolved, savory aftertaste of leather and dried dates, some meaty notes of smoky Speck, light leathery tones, a little bit of earth, a hint of sweet raisiny fruit and a touch of tart cranberry.
While the wine feels like it is at full maturity, I feel it has lost some of its richness and complexity that our previous bottle showed in 2021. I expected that the wine would keep fine for years, maybe even decades, but this one doesn't really reach the level of nuance and harmony we had seen before. I guess there is starting to be considerable bottle variation at this age - which definitely isn't unheard of - or then this vintage is starting to decline. This is still a fine and harmonious wine, but I was expecting a little bit more, based on my previous experience.
(92 points) - 1987 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Mazuelo aka. Carignan (10%) along with a tiny addition of other local red varieties. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, then blended into large oak vats and aged for 6 months. Aged for 5 years (from May 1988 to May 1993) in American oak barrels that are on average 4 years old. Bottled in July 1994. 12,5% alcohol, 5,6 g/l acidity, 0,81 g/l VA and 27,1 g/l dry extract.
Old, cloudy syrupy-brown appearance. The nose feels old and pretty oxidative with tertiary aromas of meat stew and beef jerky, some wizened red fruits, light earthy notes, a little bit of tobacco, hints of dried dates, figs and dark raisiny fruit, a touch of woody oak and a whiff of brown spices. The wine feels tertiary, somewhat sweet-toned and quite tired on the palate with a moderately full body and rich flavors of dried dates, raisiny dark fruit and earth, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of salty beef jerky, light smoky nuances, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of hoisin. The overall feel is quite gentle with a somewhat lower acidity I've come to expect from 904 with fully resolved and rather mellow tannins. The finish is long, oxidative and slightly grippy with a very tertiary aftertaste of raisiny dark fruit and dried dates, some leathery tones, a little bit of earth, light notes of tobacco, an oxidative hint of beef jerky and a touch of wood.
This was already past its peak and by quite a distance. While still drinkable, the overall feel was that of an anonymous, old and tired red wine that has started to turn oxidative due to its age. I was surprised how soft and mellow the structure was here - I feel the 904 comes across as higher in acidity than this. Leaving the wine unrated. - 1982 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (85%), Mazuelo aka. Carignan and Graciano (total 15%). Fermented and aged in large oak vats for 6 months. Aged for 5 years (from spring 1983 to early 1988) in American oak barrels. Bottled in March 1988. 12,5% alcohol, 1,5 g/l residual sugar, 5,0 g/l acidity, 0,79 g/l VA and 27,9 g/l dry extract.
Very deep, evolved and quite opaque blackish-red color with a tertiary mahogany hue. The nose feels evolved, sweet-toned and also slightly green-toned with aromas of tobacco and wizened red plums, some leafy and herbal tones, a little bit of earth, light tertiary notes of meat stew and prunes, a hint of savory wood spice, a touch of leathery funk and a whiff of plum liqueur. The wine feels ripe, silky and quite savory on the palate with a full body and complex tertiary flavors of red plums and sour cherries, some Cabernet Franc-ish herbaceous tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness and crunchy red plum, light notes of loose tobacco, a sweeter hint of prunes and raisiny tones and a touch of dill. The wine still retains quite a bit of structure with its medium-to-moderately high acidity and pretty stern and relatively unresolved tannins. The finish is long, ripe and pretty grippy with a firm, nuanced aftertaste of sour cherries and red plums, some smoky salt-cured meat, a little bit of loose tobacco, light woody notes of savory oak spice, herbaceous hints of autumnal leaves and roasted bell pepper and a touch of leathery funk.
A very distinctive vintage of the 904 - I can't remember if I've ever had a Rioja red that had exhibited such herbaceous notes that reminded me so much of Cabernet Franc! The nose had more green-toned aromatics, whereas the nuances had more bell pepper-like herbaceous nuances. However, even if the wine showed some green and herbaceous notes, it didn't come across as unripe or weedy at any point - no, on the contrary, the wine seemed relatively ripe and muscular by all accounts. It seemed very evolved and most likely it had been on its plateau of maturity for many, many years - but even then the wine didn't seem one bit too old. Maybe even slightly more youthful than what I'd expect from a +40 yo Rioja red! This may be a bit atypical, yet also a fine and harmonious vintage of the 904, now at full maturity.
(93 points) - 1973 La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
Bottled as "Reserva", not as "Gran Reserva" - the designation under which 904 is normally bottled today. 12,2% alcohol.
Rather pale and fully translucent cherry-red color with a tertiary brick-orange hue. The nose feels dry and quite restrained with light aromas of old leather and sun-baked earth, some wizened red cherries and dried blackcurrants, light smoky tones, a little bit of beef jerky, a volatile hint of balsamico and an autumnal touch of forest floor. The wine feels dry, understated and a bit dull on the palate with tertiary flavors of salt-cured meat and dried dark fruits, some smoky tones, a little bit of leather, light balsamic nuances, a hint of loose tobacco and a touch of gravelly earth. The overall feel is pretty tough and angular, thanks to the moderately high acidity and still rather assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is long, tired and tannic with a tertiary aftertaste of loose tobacco, some smoky tones, a little bit of beef jerky, light tart cranberry notes, a hint of old leather and a ferrous touch of blood.
An impressively structured but otherwise rather faded old Rioja. Some people who managed to catch the wine quite soon after popping the bottle open said that the wine was pretty lovely for some moments, but faded away quite quickly. I never managed to catch the wine in that phase - to me, this wine was pretty much dead on arrival. Leaving it unrated. - 1970 La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
Bottled as "Reserva", not as "Gran Reserva" - the designation under which 904 is normally bottled today. This is a blend of Tempranillo (85%), Mazuelo aka. Carignan, Graciano and Viura (total 15%). Fermented and aged in large oak vats for 12 months. Aged for 6 years in American oak barrels that are on average 18 years old. 12,3% alcohol, 5,9 g/l acidity, 0,68 g/l VA and 26,5 g/l dry extract.
Pale, evolved and sully translucent maple syrup color with a burnished golden rim. The nose feels dull and musty with aromas of damp cellar, some forest floor, light sweet notes of dried dates, a little bit of old leather and a hint of wet cardboard. The wine feels dull, hollow and dusty on the palate with a medium body and understated, earthy flavors of forest floor, some dusty tones, a little bit of tart red fruit and a hint of something metallic. The structure juts out quite badly due to the lack of flavors, making the wine feels quite tough and angular with the high acidity and still moderately grippy tannins. The finish is dull, short and grippy with flavors of dusty earth, some metallic tones and a hint of tart red fruit.
A mildly corked bottle - although the wine might've been pretty thin and dead even without any TCA, based on its rather limpid, brownish appearance. (NR/flawed) - 1968 La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
Bottled as "Reserva", not as "Gran Reserva" - the designation under which 904 is normally bottled today. 12,5% alcohol.
Quite dark, somewhat hazy and rather opaque coffee-brown appearance. The nose feels old, sweetish and very tertiary with aromas of raisiny dark fruit, some autumnal notes of forest floor, a little bit of dried figs, light sweeter nuances of coffee liqueur, volatile hints of nail polish and balsamico, a touch of dried flowers and a whiff of prunes. The wine feels evolved and very tertiary on the palate with a medium body and rather dried-up flavors of beef jerky and sweet raisiny fruit, some coffee tones, a little bit of dried dates, light woody nuances, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of forest floor. The structure is still there, thanks to the high acidity and still relatively grippy tannins. The finish is old, somewhat dull and moderately grippy with a rather long and tertiary aftertaste of raisiny dark fruit and prunes, some beef jerky, light gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of of coffee, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of woody oak spice.
An old vintage of the 904 that is slowly wandering deeper and deeper into the anonymous old wine territory. I guess it might still be possible to identify the wine as Rioja, should it be served blind, but as the overall flavor profile is so aged and tertiary, it definitely wouldn't be easy. I guess this might've been a lovely wine at some point, but it must've been a decade or two ago. Certainly it is possible that this was dust a bottle kept in less-than-optimal places and a well-kept bottle is still singing, but one has to remember that at this age, there are no great wines, only great bottles. This definitely wasn't one.
(86 points) - NV La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
Most likely a bottle from the 1960's - the label is similar to the 1960's 904s, but the part that normally holds the vintage is empty here. Bottled as "Reserva", not as "Gran Reserva" - the designation under which 904 is normally bottled today. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, quite translucent and rather evolved maroon color with a brick-orange hue. The nose feels oxidative and pretty tertiary with aromas of sweet raisiny fruit and dried dates, some beef jerky tones, a little bit of loose tobacco, light notes of tar, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of smoked meat. The wine feels tertiary and quite tired on the palate with a surprisingly full body and very evolved flavors of beef jerky and oxidative soy sauce, some tobacco, light earthy tones, a little bit of tar, a sweeter hint of prunes and a touch of balsamic VA. The structure relies mostly on the moderately high acidity, as the ample yet almost fully resolved tannins mainly contribute to the rich texture of the wine. The finish is dry, tired and gently grippy with a medium-long, savory aftertaste of meaty umami and salty beef jerky, some tobacco, light earthy nuances, a ferrous hint of blood and a sweeter touch of prunes.
While drinkable and even somewhat enjoyable in its very evolved state, the wine was nevertheless quite oxidative - borderline oxidized - at this point and not really what it should've been anymore. Our expectations weren't particularly high for this particular bottling, and I'd say they were more or less met. Leaving the wine unrated. - 1904 La Rioja Alta Rioja Cosecha - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (25.10.2024)
This is the legendary vintage made after La Rioja Alta merged with Bodegas Ardanza in 1904 and gained access to some exceptional vineyards, the wine later giving birth to their famous Gran Reserva 904. This bottle was sourced from Paternina's cellars.
Old, somewhat cloudy syrupy-brown color with a reddish dried-blood hue. The nose feels sweet, pruney and mushroomy with aromas of mahogany and gamey meat, some syrupy tones, a little bit of old leather, light smoky notes, an oxidative hint of soy sauce, a touch of nutty rancio and a whiff of sweet VA. The wine feels old, tangy and very tertiary on the palate with a medium body and somewhat tired flavors of beef jerky and sharp aldehydic salinity, some dried-fruit notes of dried dates and dark raisiny fruit, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light tart notes of lingonberries and sour red plums, a hint of tobacco and a touch of smoke. With air a faint metallic undertone appears, too. The wine still retains an impressive sense of structure with its very high acidity and still gently grippy, quite resolved tannins. The finish is long, tired and slightly grippy with a tertiary aftertaste of sweet-toned raisiny and pruney notes, some tart lingonberry, light oxidative notes of soy sauce and consommé, light smoky nuances, a hint of beef jerky and a touch of something metallic.
This is already past its peak - which is not that surprising, considering how the wine is whopping 120 years old - but still enjoyable for an old, fully tertiary and somewhat oxidative wine. Well, at least at first, when it hadn't had enough time to develop that slightly metallic note that distracted a bit from the pleasure. I didn't expect the wine to be particularly alive anymore, and it certainly lived up to these low expectations. At +800€, I must say this was not money well spent, but at least I've now tasted a piece of history. - 1994 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano (3%) and Mazuelo (2%). Aged for 6 years in American oak barrels (from June 1995 to June 2001). 12,8% alcohol, 6,65 g/l acidity and 0,98 g/l VA.
Dark and somewhat translucent cherry-red color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels ripe, slightly toasty and somewhat evolved with sweet-toned aromas of wizened dark fruits, some gamey tones, a little bit of dill, light juicy notes of fresh black cherries, a hint of vanilla and a developed touch of meat stew. The wine feels firm, moderately ripe and still quite savory on the palate with a moderately full body and nuanced flavors of cranberries, juicy red plums and tart lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, light pipe tobacco tones, a little bit of dill, evolved hints of earth and meat stew and a touch of vanilla. The wine comes across as quite muscular with its high acidity and ample, still rather grippy tannins. The finish is sweet-toned, somewhat evolved and quite tannic with a long and intense aftertaste of tart lingonberries, some wizened sour cherries, a little bit of dill, light evolved notes of earth and meat stew, a hint of vanilla and a woody touch of savory oak spice.
A rather ripe but also enjoyably savory and very sophisticated Rioja that isn't a big blockbuster, but definitely not a featherweight player either. Definitely less exuberant than many LRA wines, emphasizing more meaty and earthy tones instead of the overt vanilla oak nuances and more punchy fruit. Maybe not an instantly impressive wine, but definitely has its own charm. I thought the wine seemed almost prematurely evolved back in 2017, but when tasting it now, it seems almost unchanged. Or maybe we had a prematurely developed bottle back then and the wine seems more appropriately evolved for its age now, when it is 30 years old? Go figure.
(92 points)
The extra blinds:
- 2021 Quinta das Bágeiras Espumanto Bruto Natural Tinto - Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada (25.10.2024)
100% Baga. Fermented in old wood tanks. Bottled within a year from the harvest. Bruto Natural, ie. the wine is non-dosé. 13,5% alcohol. Bottle #682 of total 4414 bottles.
Dense, subtly hazy and fully opaque blueish-red color with a faint inky rim. The nose feels at first quite reductive with somewhat flatulent notes of reduction. These notes blow off quite quickly, fortunately, revealing aromas of blueberry juice, some cinnamon tones, a little bit of boysenberry, light cassis nuances, a hint of something vaguely lactic and a faint primary touch of candied raspberry jelly. The wine feels dry, youthful and crunchy with a moderately persistent and quite fizzy yet relatively sparse mousse, a medium body and crunchy flavors of crowberries and brambly black raspberries, some blueberries, a little bit of fresh red plum, light herby tones, a hint of tart lingonberry and a touch of ripe blackcurrant. The wine is quite high in acidity with rather ample and relatively grippy tannins. The finish is long, dry and quite grippy with a fresh, dark-toned aftertaste of fresh blueberries and tart lingonberries, some sharp crowberry tones, a little bit of juicy boysenberry, light blackcurrant notes, a hint of something herby and a faint lactic touch of cherry yogurt.
A fun, tasty and distinctive red sparkler. The wine is very much Baga with its tart fruit flavors, ample tannins and somewhat lean overall profile, but even then, this is definitely a sparkling wine and not a red wine with bubbles. A style so rarely seen at these latitudes it is a bit hard to wrap your head around it, but I love it all the same. If you don't mind the tannins and tangy fruit profile, this drinks really nicely on its own, but I guess this wine would be so much better if it was allowed to age for another 5-10 years to develop some tertiary complexity and then was paired with something that would fit this kind of dry and light yet pretty tannic stuff really well - like a steak tartare or a very cheesy pizza. At 8,25€, this has been a bargain.
(90 points) - 2006 Ramos-Paul Serranía de Ronda - Spain, Andalucía, Sierras de Málaga, Serranía de Ronda (25.10.2024)
A blend of organically farmed Tempranillo (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Merlot (10%) and Syrah (5%) from vineyards overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar, planted at the altitude of 1000 m above sea level. The wines are vinified with a minimum-interventionist philosophy at the nearby El Chantre winery owned by Ramos-Paul. 14,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dense, almost fully opaque black cherry color with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels quite rich with intense aromas of ripe dark fruits, some green notes of minty herbs and leafy nuances, a little bit of cassis, light eucalyptus tones, a hint of juicy blueberries and a touch of developed meaty character. The wine feels dense, ripe and quite chewy on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of dark plummy fruit, some blueberry and cassis tones, a little bit of peppermint, light spicy notes of cracked peppercorns, a hint of wood and a salty touch of beef jerky. The overall feel is pretty muscular and structure-driven with its moderately high acidity and still pretty grippy tannins. The finish is long, extracted and rather grippy with an intense, slightly sweet-toned aftertaste of dark fruits, some gamey tones, a little bit of blueberry, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a greenish hint of peppermint and a touch of extracted bitterness.
A rather serious but also quite ripe and extracted powerhouse of a wine that was quite hard to pinpoint anywhere. We managed to identify it as a Spanish red quite quickly, but after that things got quite hard and I managed to guess Andalucía only because I had tasted one other wine from this producer some time before. Although the wine is starting to show a little bit of age, it is still surprisingly youthful for its age and I can see it improving a little bit more with additional aging. A surprisingly nice effort for such a big and muscular wine; drink or keep. Worth the price at approx. 33€.
(91 points) - 2011 Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva Culmen - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
A blend of Tempranillo and Graciano from Pago El Rincón, considered to be the best parcel within Viña Lanciano, consisting mainly of very old bush vines. Fermented in tronconical oak vats, aged in new French oak barrels for 22 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Dense, fully opaque blackish-red color with a faint youthful, blueish hue. The nose feels dense, dark-toned and quite concentrated yet not particularly expressive with somewhat understated aromas of dark fruits, some licorice, light woody tones, a little bit of loose tobacco, a hint of ripe blueberry, a toasty touch of sweet oak spice and a fragrant whiff of violets and elderflowers. The wine feels dense, somewhat extracted and a bit polished on the palate with a full body and quite intense flavors of crunchy red plums and crowberries, some woody tones, a little bit of licorice powder, light ferrous notes of blood, a toasty hint of sweet, dark-toned oak spice and a touch of salinity. The wine feels surprisingly fresh and firm with its high acidity and ample, quite tightly-knit tannins. The finish is dry, dark-toned and grippy with long and intense aftertaste of dark plums and ripe bilberries, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light tart notes of cranberries, a hint of fresh blueberry and a touch of licorice.
A rather big, brooding and quite modern Rioja blockbuster - but a surprisingly good and impressive at that. I do prefer the drier, more red-toned and rustic style of old-school Rioja and I am not the biggest fan of these blocky, extracted wines aged in new French oak, but I must admit that despite its rather polished modernist leanings, the wine performed remarkably well with its relatively fresh fruit profile and impressively firm, tightly-knit structure. I think the wine would've been a lot more lovely without all the toasty tones, but this was nevertheless a much better wine than I ever expected it to be. Seeing how the wine still comes across as pretty youthful and oak-driven at 13 years of age, I can imagine the wine still needs at least another decade before it starts to show well. Pretty decent stuff now, but definitely has lots of upside.
(90 points) - 2022 XXVI Talhas Alentejo Mestre Daniel - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo (25.10.2024)
A blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez and Tinta Grossa. Fermented spontaneously and left to macerate with the skins for 5-6 months in earthenware talhas. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, quite deep yet moderately translucent blood-red color. The nose feels clean and attractively fruit-forward with aromas of blueberries and elderberries, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light peppery tones, a hint of licorice root and a touch of exotic spices. The wine feels youthful, clean and lively on the palate with a medium body and fruit-forward flavors of blueberries and elderberry juice, some spicy notes of cracked peppercorns, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light floral nuances of violets, a hint of crowberry and a touch of licorice root. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the supple medium-minus tannins. The finish is dry, lively and crunchy with a fresh and moderately long aftertaste of tart lingonberries and fresh blueberries, some peppery tones, a little bit of elderberry, light floral notes of violets, a primary hint of raspberry jellies and a ferrous touch of blood.
A surprisingly nice and characterful little wine what was enjoyably clean, fragrant and expressive in style. With its youthful, fruit-forward overall feel I'd say this wine probably drinks best young. I don't expect the wine to fall apart anytime soon and probably it will even evolve and improve for a few years, but I'd say that even if the wine might keep for a good number of years, this isn't a wine built for the long haul - this is more like a nice, fresh weekday red that works as a good substitute to lighter wines like Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Dolcetto or Poulsard. This has been a good purchase at approx. 15€.
(89 points) - 2006 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (25.10.2024)
100% Viura from Viña Gravonia (aka. Zaconia) vineyard in the municipality of Zaco, purchased in 1909-1912 and replanted in 1925. Harvested in late September 2006. The wine gets its name because it is a Spanish emulation of the classic whites of the Graves region. After the spontaneous fermentation, the wine is aged for 4 years in predominantly old American oak barrels and bottled unfiltered in 2011. Labeled "Crianza", although the wine is effectively a Gran Reserva. 12,5% alcohol, 5 g/l acidity. Total production 50,000 bottles.
Deep, luminous and somewhat concentrated burnished golden color. The nose feels complex, expressive and somewhat sweet-toned with aromas of oxidative nuttiness, chopped almonds and apple jam, some caramel tones, a little bit of honeycomb, light bruised apple notes, a hint of browned butter, a touch of wood and a zesty whiff of ripe citrus fruits. The wine feels slightly concentrated and a bit viscous yet still very firm and dry on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits and bruised apple, some oxidative nutty tones, a little bit of browned butter, light nuances of caramel and honeyed richness, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of savory old wood. The wonderfully brisk and racy acidity makes for a wonderful counterpoint to the richness of flavors and the textural mouthfeel, retaining the sense of freshness to the last drop. The finish is long, firm and very complex with an intense, developed aftertaste of caramel and bruised apple, some oxidative notes of roasted nuts, a little bit of browned butter, light saline mineral nuances, zesty citrus hints of orange and lemon and a woody touch of old oak.
A beautiful, classic and so stunningly fresh vintage of Gravonia. This has been a consistently wonderful vintage since its release and this bottle was no exception - I guess the wine has developed a tiny bit of additional richness and sense of concentration from the first bottle I tasted, but otherwise the wine is evolving at a glacial pace. I'm sure the wine will keep for many, many more years - probably even decades - and I can imagine there might be some room for additional improvement in the wine, but seeing at how slowly the wine evolves, I have no idea how long it will take for this wine to show any meaningful development! At just 12,60€, this has been a screaming bargain.
(94 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
