LAFITE ROTHSCHILD VERTICAL - Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C. (5/4/2022)
Bijan organized a Lafite vertical dinner. Eric Kohler, the technical director of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, was plan to join us but had to cancel. Eight of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink 12 vintages of Chateau Lafite.
As usuasl, we were situated in the classic private room. This has to be one of the top wine services of my life time. It was interesting and educational to taste through six decades of Lafites. It was remarkable that almost all of them expressed “lead pencil” which is the trademark of Lafite. All the wines showed extremely well.
Champagne
The 96 Comtes was incredible once again.
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Slight pink/cooper color. Beautiful complex nose displaying subtle sweet red and yellow fruit, raspberry, pomegranate, peach, apricot, apple cider vinegar, caramel, marzipan, yeast, smoke and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of subtle red and yellow fruit, rich and sweet but also showing a very good balance and harmony, bright acidity and strong mineral, and a seamless long sweet red and yellow fruit driven finish with yeast and apple vinegar at the end. This incredibly complex Champagne has a very “natural wine” impression. Very unique, delicious, and natural expression. (97 pts.) -
1996 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Perfectly mature nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, lemon curd, candied lemon peel, baked apple, candied ginger, burnt sugar, oyster jus, sweet spices, and crushed rocks. I have consistently found a beautiful floral note in the 96 CDC which is fascinating. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of sweet yellow fruit, very find generous mousse, rich and decadent yet also pure and precise, bright acidity, strong oyster shell mineral, and a seamless long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with oyster jus and burnt sugar at the end. The 96 CDC is drinking incredibly well. I actually prefer the overall balance and decadence of the 96 CDC over the 96 Salon which is more focused. (99 pts.) -
1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Beautifully mature yet focused nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow fruit, apple, baked apple, lemon curd, honey, light caramel, brioche, white pepper and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of decadent yet pure yellow fruit, very fine generous mousse, sweet and generous but also displaying excellent precision and detail, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a long concentrated sweet yellow fruit driven finish with honey at the end. This is drinking beautifully but I seem to prefer the 96 CDC in the past five years. (97 pts.)
White
The Charmes was much better than I anticipated.
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2012 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le MĂ©al - France, RhĂ´ne, Northern RhĂ´ne, Hermitage
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe slightly dry yellow fruit, perhaps peach and apricot but not quite clear, honey, cool mountain stream, sweet spices and steely mineral. Excellent concentration, packed yellow fruit, ripe and sweet but also cool and steely, medium acidity, strong steely mineral, and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with honey and steel at the end. The fruit is concentrated but not descriptive, expressing mostly as honey. IMO, these high end Chapoutier and Guigal whites should be drunk upon release. I am not sure how they will develop. (91 pts.) -
2006 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Cuvée Bahèzre de Lanlay Faiveley (Hospices Auction Group) - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Beautifully mature nose displaying delicious yellow fruit, lemon curd, pina colada, pineapple, vanilla/oak, and sweet spices. There isn’t much mineral expression. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered yellow fruit, sweet and user friendly, medium acidity, lacking mineral, and a long delicious yellow fruit driven finish. I tasted a bunch of top ’06 white Burgundies upon release and thought the 06 was a bad white Burgundy vintage as they were very rich and cloying. The time really helped this wine. This feels very modern and tasty. Some may find it too modern.
P.S. Apparently I had this in 2011. (93 pts.)
64 and 75
Some thought they were tired. I actually liked the tertiary dominating nose.
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1964 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Slightly cloudy but good color, also a very sound cork. Fully mature complex nose displaying subtle sweet red fruit, strawberry, raspberry, sous bois, eucalyptus, mint leather, mushroom, cedar, and damp earth. There is a hint of VA that is not bothersome. Fully integrated palate, medium concentration, subtle red fruit, fluid perhaps slightly thin, warm and round, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium long subtle red fruit driven finish with leather and mushroom at the end. This has 94 point nose but 90 point palate. If you like really mature claret, this is not a bad wine to try. (92 pts.) -
1975 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Bright dark red color, a slightly crumbling cork. Fully mature nose displaying sweet red fruit, strawberry, plum, a hint of cassis, cedar, sous bois, lead pencil, cinnamon, light caramel, soy, tree bark and mineral. Nicely integrated palate, silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity, earthy mineral, still showing slightly coarse tannins, and a medium long slightly dry red fruit driven finish. This was unyielding forever. Even after almost half of a century, it still shows a bit of coarse tannins. I like the old school claret expression. (95 pts.)
86
For the past five years, the 86 Lafite seems more backward than the 86 Mouton. This was frightfully young.
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1986 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense black fruit with a hint of red, crème de cassis, red currant, ink, licorice, light caramel, cedar, lead pencil, and mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black fruit, unctuous yet silky and fluid, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, still noticeable tannins, and a long intense black fruit driven finish with lead pencil at the end. The red fruit becomes more noticeable with air. Ironically, the 86 Lafite seems more backward than the 86 Mouton in the past five years. This is an incredibly wine but still needs time. (98 pts.)
88, 90 and 94
The 90 was drinking the best for most of us, incredibly open and delicious.
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1988 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive nose displaying subtle red fruit, strawberry and cherry, also a hint of crème de cassis, strong cedar, spearmint, cabernet mineral dust, sweet spices and mineral. There is a hint of green/bell pepper which is not bothersome. Very good concentration, nicely layered red fruit, silky, bright acidity and strong mineral, very noticeable slightly coarse tannins, bright acidity and a medium long subtle red fruit driven finish with lead pencil and green at the end. This seems slightly disjoined and angular at the moment. A bit masculine expression. (94 pts.) -
1990 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Perfectly mature nose displaying sweet opulent black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, crème de cassis, strawberry, caramel, cedar, lead pencil, black truffle, cinnamon and mineral. Perfectly integrate palate, layers upon layers of rich black fruit, silky and fluid, beautifully balanced and detailed, bright acidity, strong mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a seamless long rich black fruit driven finish with caramel and cedar at the end. Perhaps the best drinking Lafite of the night. Absolutely pleasing wine. (98 pts.) -
1994 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Medium expressive nose displaying subtle black fruit with a hint of red, a hint of crème de cassis, red currant, plum., strong lead pencil, bitter milk chocolate, green bell pepper, ash and mineral. Medium concentration, nicely layered black fruit, silky, slightly hollow mid palate, bright acidity, strong mineral, noticeable angular tannins and a medium long subtle black fruit driven finish with lead pencil at the end. Perhaps due to the other great Lafites, this seems a bit angular and hollow. The nose is still quite enjoyable, kinda classic claret. (93 pts.)
96 and 00
Both were incredible but almost too young.
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1996 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive youthful nose displaying intense black fruit, strong crème de cassis, blackberry, black cherry, ink, strong lead pencil, cabernet flora note, a hint of cedar and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense perfectly ripe black fruit, rich and opulent but also excellent precision and balance, silky and fluid, bright acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a seamless long concentrated rich black fruit driven finish with ink and lead pencil at the end. This seems even richer but showing less tannins compare to the 86. (98 pts.) -
2000 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Explosive nose displaying perfectly ripe black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry, black cherry, strong lead pencil, bell pepper/jalapeno, coffee, cedar, cabernet floral dust and crushed rocks. Perfectly ripe fruit and a hint of green coexist which is really fascinating. I also noticed the ripe fruit and green in the 00 Mouton. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense cassis fruit, incredibly rich and silky, perfect amount of acidity and strong mineral, noticeably but silky tannins, and a long intense black fruit driven finish with lead pencil and jalapeno at the end. The palate is incredibly rich yet there is a hint of green. It may become perfect in another decade or two. (98 pts.)
01, 02 and 03
These expressed the vintages perfectly. The 03 was drinking exceptionally well and also showed a great future ahead.
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2001 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Beautifully mature nose displaying perfectly ripe red fruit with a hint of black, strawberry jam, plum, a hint of cassis, lead pencil, strong cedar and earth. Perfectly integrated palate, subtle sweet red fruit, silky, elegant and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with lead pencil at the end. This is the most elegant Lafite of the night that demonstrates the beauty of the 01 vintage. Drinking beautifully. (95 pts.) -
2002 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive nose displaying concentrated black fruit, blackberry, crème de cassis, ink, milk chocolate, dark spice, vanilla, lead pencil, cedar and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, rich and opulent, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, a hint of sweet tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with cedar and vanilla at the end. It is fascinating to find the similar vintage typicity in Bordeaux. Just like the 02 Mouton, it shows excellent concentration and ripeness but is a bit chunky. The generous fruit and concentration are also similar to the 02 Burgundy. It is enjoyable due to the generous fruit but can easily improve for a couple more decades. (95 pts.) -
2003 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Expressive hedonistic nose displaying opulent black and red fruit, crème de cassis, red currant jam, blackberry, cappuccino, milk chocolate, cabernet floral dust, strong lead pencil, cedar and mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of opulent black fruit, intense and rich but also perfectly balanced and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long black fruit driven finish with perfume and milk chocolate at the end. Stylistically, this is the closest to the 90 but has better balance. It is also the second most enjoyable Lafite for the current drinking along with the 01. A great future ahead. (99 pts.)
09
It was like a barrel sample but even more concentrated, simply perfect.
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2009 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I tasted at the 09 En Primeur and thought it was the best wine of the vintage along with the 09 VCC and Beausejour Duffau. I put money where my mouth is and bought a lot. This bottle is from the last two cases that I purchased the day before Bob gave the wine 99pts. The Lafite market crashed and I have been stuck with what I bought. Explosive nose displaying incredibly concentrated primary black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry concentrate, ink, liquid smoke, cabernet floral dust, milk chocolate, strong lead pencil and crushed rock. Unbelievable concentration, layers upon layers of intense primary black fruit, unctuous and opulent but also showing perfectly balanced and weightless, bright acidity and mineral, the tannins are completely masked by the opulent fruit, and the never ending finish. Perhaps the most concentrated Lafite, even bigger than the 86, 96, 00 and 03. This will be one of the greatest Lafite of our time. (100 pts.)
88 Yquem
Simple the perfect way to end the evening!
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1988 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Hedosnistic nose displaying intense yellow fruit, peach cobbler, apricot tart, mango, pinepalle, strong botrytis, crème brulee, saffron, candied ginger, candied orange peel and steely mineral. Exceptoanl concentration, layers upon layers of intense sweet yellow fruit, unctuous and rich but also showing perfect balance and precision, perfect amount of acidity and strong steely mineral and a seamless long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with honey and saffron at the end. Absolutely delicious yet also profound. (98 pts.)
This was truly educational and also so much fun. A great time was had by all.
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