TN: Inventory Day & Then Drinking The Cripples and Infirm

My brothers and I gave my Dad a Christmas present of a day helping him inventory his cellar and put it on cellar tracker. He has been collecting wine since the 70’s and had only a vague idea of what he had in inventory. It has been stored in a temperature controlled (but warmer than ideal wine temps) storage room in NYC for most of its life. Inventorying nearly 1400 bottles took 5 of us all day.Most of his bottles were actually in good shape, but a few were not. That evening we sat down to drink some of the problem bottles we culled from the herd that day:

1961 Chateau de Chambrun - Cork had fallen into the bottle, fill was about halfway up the bottle. Actually not terrible - quite a lot of bricking, leather and funky earth on the nose. Nice red fruit on the attack, but a little thin and metallic on the finish.

1967 Cos d’Estournel - Fill to bottom shoulder. Very light color, rainisy porty nose, shot on the palate.

1967 Chateau de Pez - Fill slightly above bottom shoulder. Still solid core of color, some significant bricking on the rim. Leather, mint, tobacco and nice clean dark earth on the nose. Nice tart blackberry fruit with fully resolved soft and mellow tannins. While not a blockbuster, a very pleasant drink and surprise.

1966 Luigi Bosca Barolo Reserva - Good fill, clean cork which came out easily in one piece. Lots of dark colored sediment at the bottom and light orange colored liquid at the top. Horrible nose of port upon opening and totally shot on the palate. Tried shaking it up to mix the two components, still awful. Let it sit for two hours, still awful. Then poured out in the sink and a great aroma of spicy, peppery underbrush and earth rose up out of the sink as if all the good stuff was in the bottom of the bottle but not in the liquid.

Late 60’s (approximately) Oude Libertas Pinotage - No label left, but capsule showed producer. My Dad knew it was pre South African embargo, so most likely 1968-1972. Fill was good, but we figured there was no way a 40 year Pinotage would be drinkable. Very funky mushroomy nose upon opening, but that blew off after a few minutes. Lots of clay, spicy pepper and red cherry fruit on the nose with soft red furit and spciy ginger on the palate. Damn good and a total surprise!

With dinner (slow smoked brisket which was out of this world):

198+3 Chapoutier Cote Rotie - Seeping cork, fill top shoulder however. Great nose of herbs de provence, oregano, gamey meat (wild boar?), freshly crushed peppercorns and wildflowers. Sweet candied spice on the attack with lovely floral notes. All tannins fully resolved, but still plenty of life left and a great blalance between acid and fruit. Outstanding.

198+5 Delas Frères Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette - Also seeping cork, fill mid shoulder. Bacon fat, candied black fruit and white pepper on the nose. The aroma just filled the room from the decanter. As it opened up, a nice feral note of underbrush really crept into the nose. Very elegant, soft tannins - still quite lively on the palate and again in a great place balanced between acid, fruit and structure. Also outstanding.

Just goes to show that well made wines are hardier than we think sometimes!

Great story, Jud - thanks. How fun that would be…

Old Barolo is a funny thing. I had a couple of not dissimilar experiences with 71 Barolos I bought at auction. The fills were terrible and I opened them sheerly out of morbid curiosity about 10 years ago. They were thin, tannic and nasty to begin with, but damn if they didn’t blossom in the glass with some time, with dried rose hips blossoming from the glass.

Sometimes there’s an issue of sediment in old Barolo. Some people believe they should be stood upright for a couple of days and then decanted off the sediment, and that if you don’t do that, you risk getting bitterness. I don’t know how yours was handled; I just mention this.

Sounds like a fun evening, rewarded with some nice surprises.

Have done some cellar inventory/evaluation for some customers, and its always surprising how well wines survive. Did one where the cellar A/C had conked out over the summer and wines were actively dripping through their corks to the point where the carpet was saturated and sticky. Some of the wines had traveled back and forth with their owners to Australia and Chicago, so lord knows what else happened to them over the years. Bottles of mid-60s Grange only half full, early 70s Barolos below the shoulder. Made my stomach hurt looking at some of them. So they let me keep a few things just for fun, and I opened them with friends (with several backup on hand just in case) as much out of morbid curiosity. Shockingly, none of the wines were undrinkable, and though I lack the experience to say exactly what most of these wines were supposed to taste like at their best, there was some level of interest and enjoyability to all of them. The biggest shocker was a 1930s Red Burg that was at best only half empty that was a bit stewed but had intriguing earthy notes and definitely identifiable as Pinot Noir. Better than some of the 96 White Burgs I’ve had lately.
The moral: Don’t throw away anything, but always bring a backup plan…