TN: Il Poggione and Beaune Tuerons

Brunello di Montalcino Il Poggione 2004: Decanted for two hours and served with grass-fed beef hamburgers. Kinetic, with ripe, sweet, juicy tannins. I have enjoyed more austere styles of Brunello, but only a schoolmarm or a killjoy would fail to smile at the wine’s vivacity and joie de vivre. Powerful and balanced almost in equipoise, displaying equal measures of concentration, grip and fraicheur. Long and focused, contemplative, finish. A wine of grace and power. Will improve for the foreseeable future, but present now. 94

Beaune Les Tuerons Chateau de Chorey 2005: Slow oxidation over four hours and consumed over the next four; we saw this wine only in profile. A profound nose of cherries and soil was always on offer, but tight, sometimes astringent tannins lasted for hours. Should have been decanted, or simply left alone. Powerful, focused, disciplined wine. Only needs time. Some beautiful vignettes emerged: Vosne-like exoticism, a spree of baking spices, illuminations of unperceived structures. Good glycerin weight, sexy chew and persistent fruit. I respect the wine now; I supect I will love it in the future. 92

Welcome to Wineberserkers, Chris. Bummer about the Beaune. I don’t have the Tuerons '05, but actually have been planning to pop open a Vignes Franches or Cras, which sounds like a bad idea at this time. Thanks for the notes.

Hi Chris,

As Lew said, welcome. Nice note on the Il Poggione. Captures well some of the better 04 Brunellos from traditionalists… fleshy and seductive but not too far, wines that are just damned enjoyable to drink now and should age fairly well, even if they’re not quite as classically styled. I’m quite a fan of the better 04’s …

Thanks for the warm welcome, guys. I’ve learned quite a bit from both of you already. Happy to be here.

Thanks for the Il Poggione note, Chris. It’s a bit of a surprise but good to know it is opening up already.