I can’t remember if Ilkka posted anything about our Gassac sessions on last May, so if he did, I apologize for the repetition!
Anyways, at some point more than a year ago, fellow forumite @Mikko_R told us (me and @IlkkaL, that is) that he had a bottle of 1991 Mas de Daumas Gassac that we should polish off together.
“Sure thing, no problem” was our answer.
“There’s just this one little thing”, he said - “that’s going to be a six-liter bottle.”
Oh well.
Suddenly a fun little task had turned into a serious mission with a real purpose! We contacted a few of our common friends and finally - after long and arduous negotiations and re-schedulings and whatnot - we finally managed to come together on a nice but maybe a bit chilly May evening.
Our get-together involved:
-drinking wine
-decanting the six-liter bottle into a plastic box (we didn’t have anything else with volume of more than six liters)
-going to sauna
-drinking beer
-cooking
-drinking wine
-eating
-playing good old 8-bit Nintendo
-drinking wine
I don’t know why, but actually we had a bunch of other wines in addition to that behemoth of a bottle. And some beers as well. I guess each one of us was thinking that one has to be properly armed when going into battle!
Anyways, here’s the battle report from last May (beers not included in the photo):
-
NV Sierra Nevada Atomic Torpedo DIPA - USA, California, Central Valley, Butte County (21.5.2022)
A West-Coast DIPA that is also trying to be a juicy East-Coast IPA. 8,2% alcohol.
Luminous, pale coppery color. A rather modest off-white head. Rather sweet and tropical nose with aromas of caramel, some apricot-driven stone fruit, a little bit of biscuity malt, light hoppy notes of lemon rind, a sweet hint of syrupy molasses and a touch of pine resin. The beer is hop-driven and slightly sweet on the palate with a full body and quite juicy flavors of caramel malt, some ripe apricot, a little bit of grainy malt, light grapefruit-driven notes of zesty citrus fruits, a hint of peach candies and a touch of pine needles. The carbonation feels quite mellow and - as is typical for a West Coast IPA - the hop bitterness comes across as pretty pronounced. The finish is long, quite sweet and moderately bitter with flavors of caramel and toffee-driven malt character, some zesty grapefruit tones, a little bit of bready malt, light resinous tones, a hint of ripe apricot and a touch of exotic fruits.
A very nice, tasty and drinkable IPA that turned out to be a DIPA! Sure, the beer is somewhat rich, tropical and sweet-toned, but it carries its relatively high alcohol surprisingly well at all times, and the hop bitterness comes across as very balanced between the moderately full body and tropical fruit flavors. I honestly thought this was a juicy, lower-ABV IPA with somewhat more pronounced hop bitterness, which tells something about the balance here, I guess. A positive surprise, but seeing how dangerously smashable this is for its ABV, this can be a pretty treacherous brew indeed.
(93 points) -
NV Bière Ribella Alchemia - France, Corsica (21.5.2022)
A "grape ale", made with blending beer (60%) and unfermented Nielluccio must (40%). No idea how old the beer is, but it was purchased in September 2018. Best before December 31st, 2021. 6,5% alcohol.
Hazy pale pinkish-orange color with a large white head. Fascinating, fruity and hoppy nose with aromas of fragrant floral tones, some ripe grapefruit, a little bit of juicy grapey fruit, light waxy tones and a biscuity hint of malt. The beer feels fruity, balanced and off-dry on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and fascinating flavors of wild fragrant flowers, some grapey fruit, a little bit of pithy grapefruit bitterness, light resinous notes of hops, a hint of biscuity malt and a touch of sweet waxy character. Very soft and silky carbonation and medium hop bitterness. The finish is long, moderately bitter and slightly sweet with rich, layered flavors of ripe grapey fruit, some grapefruit, a little bit of waxy richness, light resinous tones, a hint of floral lift and a touch of biscuity malt.
A very fun, characterful and tasty fruit beer that is very balanced in all respects - not only is it very drinkable and tasty, but the balance between the grapey Nielluccio fruit and the malty beer flavors is right on point. Furthermore, the beer seems to have developed some interesting waxy complexity over the years and - best of all - it doesn't seem to have suffered at all from the age, even when it is already past its BBE date! A terrific brew by all accounts.
(93 points) -
2019 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (21.5.2022)
100% Chardonnay from 1er Cru Les Forêts. Fermented mainly in enamel tanks, a small portion in oak pièces. Aged on the lees for 6-12 months, after which the wine is racked into oak pièces (a small portion of which are new) for further aging. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous and quite pale lemony yellow-green color. The nose feels restrained and pleasantly nuanced with aromas of ripe golden apples, some honeyed tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light primary notes of fresh pear, a hint of herby greenness and a touch of waxy richness. The wine feels ripe yet precise and incisive on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of sweet golden apples, somewhat pronounced apple peel bitterness, a little bit of cantaloupe, light oaky notes of creaminess and savory wood spice, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of waxy richness. The acidity feels moderately high. The finish is quite long with ripe yet bright and dry flavors of steely minerality, some herbal spice, a little bit of creamy oak, light juicy notes of golden apples and peach, a hint of savory old wood and a touch of cantaloupe.
A nice, fresh and precise but also surprisingly bitter 1er Cru Chablis. Even though the wine was quite true to the region - at first I even thought to myself that "what kind of wine would be so Chablis-like?" - I didn't go to Chablis first, because the wine felt a tad too ripe and modest in acidity for a Chablis. But I guess that's what you often get with these warmer vintages. I guessed a few other regions before somebody ventured Chablis 1er Cru with their guess. So I guess the wine was pretty true to the region after all. It's a lovely wine by all accounts and definitely not as big and tropical as some of its peers, but I still have some adjusting to do with these warmer vintages - this just wasn't as spry, chiseled and zippy as I want my Chablis. Yet, I've no reason to lament, as this is still a lovely, balanced and mineral white with solid sense of freshness and precision. The somewhat bitter minerality might bring some difficulties in pairing the wine with certain dishes, though.
(90 points) -
2009 Argyle Riesling Nusshaus - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills (21.5.2022)
Medium sweet. 9% alcohol.
Intense, youthful and medium-deep lime-green color with golden-yellow highlights. Remarkably youthful, sweet-toned and varietally correct nose with aromas of lemon marmalade, some honeyed tones, a little bit of classic Riesling petrol, light reductive nuances of rubber, a hint of ripe peach and a floral touch of apple blossom. The wine feels vibrant and light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with intense, quite youthful flavors of lemon marmalade and ripe grapefruit, perfumed notes of orchard flowers, some honeydew melon, a little bit of steely minerality, light evolved notes of petrol, a hint of candied ginger and a reductive touch of rubber. The overall feel is enjoyably balanced with the rather high acidity that keeps the sweetness nicely in check, although there's some viscosity in the mouthfeel. The finish is rich, medium-dry and slightly oily with a long, vibrant aftertaste of sweet stone fruits, some honeyed tones and nuances of beeswax, a little bit of lemon marmalade, light steely mineral tones, a hint of petrol and a touch of candied ginger.
A wonderful, lovely and thoroughly tasty off-dry Riesling that drinks like a Mosel Kabinett. And to be honest, I served the wine blind to a bunch of winos and every single one of them guessed Mosel Kabinett - some even ventured guesses on the producer. Most guesses on the vintage were also on the younger side - nobody thought the wine was +10 years old. When told the wine was not from the old world, the first guesses went to New Zealand. However, after that people went quite immediately to the US Western Coast - although the age came as a sort of surprise to the tasters. All in all, a great Riesling that can hold a candle to its German peers. Can be drunk now, but most likely will improve over the next 10 or so years. An excellent purchase at 18,80€.
(91 points) -
2016 Denis et Didier Berthollier Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Les Salins - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron (21.5.2022)
100% biodynamically farmed single-vineyard Bergeron (Roussanne) from a steep, terraced 20-yo vineyard in lieu-dit Les Salins. Fermented spontaneously in stainless steel, aged for 12 months in stainless steel (80%) and old oak casks (20%). 15% alcohol. Total production 2100 bottles. Tasted blind.
Slightly evolved and rather pale golden-yellow color. Rich, waxy and somewhat evolved nose with aromas of chopped nuts and marzipan, some roasted pine seed tones, a little bit of honey, light peachy tones, a hint of wool and an autolytic touch of toasty - almost grainy - character. The wine is dry but also quite substantial, oily and even surprisingly concentrated on the palate with flavors of honey and chopped nuts, some roasted pine seeds, a little bit of beeswax, light peachy notes, an evolved or autolytic hint of brioche and a sweet touch of apple jam. The medium-plus acidity keeps the wine somewhat in balance, but doesn't help much with the big body and slightly viscous mouthfeel. The finish is rich, moderately warm and slightly sweet-toned with very ripe flavors of apricot, some honeydew melon, a little bit of marzipan, light nutty notes of pine seed, sweet hints of ripe pineapple and apple jam and a touch of beeswax.
A huge, concentrated and somewhat nutty effort that is much bigger than I anticipated from a Savoie white. My first guess was a hot-vintage Chenin (I thought of 2009 based on the somewhat evolved, nutty overall character), after which I guessed a Roussanne or a Roussanne-Marsanne blend from Northern Rhône. All in all, a big, somewhat heavy and a bit clumsy, yet at the same time quite characterful, fascinating and enjoyable white. Although I prefer whites with more acidity and less body and alcohol, this was still a relatively nice effort for such a burly powerhouse.
(89 points) -
2018 Domaine U Stiliccionu Ajaccio Antica - France, Corsica, Ajaccio (21.5.2022)
100% biodynamically farmed Sciaccarello (aka. Mammolo) from granite soils. 100% destemmed fruit, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated with the skins for a month. No SO2. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, translucent pomegranate color with a pale reddish rim. The nose feels sweetly-fruited, fragrant and quite ripe with bright aromas of juicy red fruits, some wild strawberries, light cherry tones, a little bit of licorice root, a hint of redcurrant juice, a touch of leathery funk and a brambly hint of fresh raspberry. The wine feels dry, bright and silky on the palate with a medium body and pure flavors of cherries and ripe raspberries, some licorice tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light wild strawberry tones, a hint of pomegranate juice and a touch of stony minerality. The wine is rather high in acidity with very sparse and gentle tannins. The finish is juicy, quite long and subtly grippy with a quite ripe yet still dry aftertaste of licorice and wild strawberries, some bright cherry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light meaty notes of umami and a hint of stony minerality.
A beautiful, delicious and super-tasty naturalist red from the lighter end that showed wonderfully fragrant overall character, refreshing red-toned fruit and very little if at all any funk despite its no-SO2 upbringing. Delicious stuff, but very hard to guess - even though I've tasted U Stiliccionu wines before, I had no idea where we were with this wine!
(92 points) -
2017 La Vigne des Pères (Aymeric Paillard) St. Joseph Petit Pere - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (21.5.2022)
13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, slightly translucent and moderately inky cherry-red color. Quite wild and lifted nose with aromas of ripe boysenberries, some bretty notes of leather, a little bit of acetic VA, light crunchy nuances of black raspberries, a hint of medicinal ether and a sunny touch of sweet red fruit. The wine is fresh, lively and quite sauvage on the palate with a medium body and ripe yet pretty dry flavors of crunchy cranberries and fresh bilberries, some acetic notes of VA, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light inky tones, a bretty hint of leathery funk and a lifted touch of ether. The wine is surprisingly high in acidity for a 2017 Syrah with moderately assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is long, savory and quite grippy with moderately wild flavors of cranberries, some fresh bilberries, a little bit of acetic VA, light tart notes of lingonberries, a hint of bretty leather and farmhouse funk and a touch of sappy herbal spice.
An enjoyably fresh and crunchy effort for a 2017 Saint Joseph, but also one that is quite heavily lifted with a streak of VA that isn't just subtle and sweet, but at times a bit sharp and pungent with almost vinegary acetic notes. With a less volatile overall feel, this would've been a very impressive effort for the hot 2017 vintage, but the elevated levels of VA made the wine a bit hard to enjoy fully. I guess I need to return to this producer to see whether all their wines are this acetic, or if this was just a bit more sauvage vintage than usual.
(88 points) -
1991 Mas de Daumas Gassac - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault (21.5.2022)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (71,7%), Syrah (10,2%), Merlot (4,9%), Cabernet Franc (3,5%), Malbec (3,5%), Pinot Noir (3,5%), Tannat (1,7%) and the remaining 1% rounded out by a blend of Barbera, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo from Italy. Fermented and macerated for 20 days in stainless steel tanks, aged for 12-15 months in oak barrels ranging from new to 7 years old. 12,7% alcohol, 5,46 g/l acidity and pH 3,59. Total production 66,340 bottles, 2,045 magnums and some larger-format bottles. This was from a whopping 6-liter bottle decanted into several smaller decanters. Decanted for 2 hours.
Slightly translucent and somewhat rusty cherry-red color with a pale brick-orange rim. The nose feels evolved and pleasantly rustic with aromas of leather and stable floor, some sweet nuances of wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of leafy herbaceous character, light raw meat notes, a hint of crunchy lingonberry and a ferrous touch of blood. The wine feels savory, meaty and quite sinewy on the palate with a medium body and somewhat rustic flavors of leather and horse stable, some wizened redcurrants, a little bit of juicy blackcurrant, light notes of tobacco, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of phenolic spice. The overall feel is pretty structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and ample yet silky and quite resolved tannins that contribute as much to the structure as to the smooth texture. The finish is long, savory and gently grippy with mature flavors of crunchy redcurrants, some bretty notes of leathery funk and farmyard, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light sweet notes of wizened blackcurrants, a hint of tobacco and a touch of dried red plums.
An excellent, beautifully evolved old Gassac at its peak right now. I have no idea how the smaller-format bottles of 1991 are, but while the wine might not continue to improve any more from here, it seems obvious this wine will keep for many, many more years in this kind of humongous format. It took some time and effort for six guys to polish a bottle of this, but hey, anything for - um - science! Great stuff. The bottle definitely wasn't a cheap buy at 350€, but boy did it deliver.
(95 points) -
2005 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos - Hungary, Tokaji (21.5.2022)
A blend of Furmint (70 %) and Hárslevelű (30 %). Aged for 24 months in oak barrels. 10,5% alcohol, 160 g/l residual sugar and 8,9 g/l acidity.
Luminous and quite pale coppery-orange color. Sweet, concentrated nose with intense aromas of caramel and orange marmalade, light honeyed tones, a little bit of dried pineapple, light sultana nuances, fruity hints of canned apricots and dried exotic fruits and a touch of mushroomy funk. The wine feels firm, lively and wonderfully crunchy on the palate with a medium body and very intense flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and grapefruit preserve, some honeyed tones, a little bit of canned pineapple, light orange marmalade tones, a hint of beeswax and a touch of pear jam. The overall feel is sweet, yet still remarkably structure-driven and light on its feet. The finish is sweet yet crisp, lively and zippy with intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits and honey, some apple jam, a little bit of steely minerality, light exotic notes of pineapple and dried apricots, a hint of Sultana raisins and a touch of caramel.
A beautiful, harmonious and wonderfully zippy Tokaji that is remarkably crisp and acid-driven despite being so sweet in taste. Although the wine was wonderfully harmonious already when I previously tasted it (more than ten years ago!), it has evolved in the right direction and is still on its way up. Although there are some signs of evolution, the wine is still far from being mature - and fortunately there is still a lot of room for further improvement. This is super delicious already now, but I can see the wine improving easily for another decade or even more. At just 18,09€ for a half-liter bottle, this has been a screaming bargain.
(94 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
And here’s Mikko decanting the wine back into the six-liter monstrosity:
your not related are you? And thanks for all your notes!
now i want one!