The first one (Pelletiere Nebbiolo) wasn’t in the picture, sorry about that.
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2016 Pelletiere Estate Nebbiolo Riserva - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District (23.9.2020)
14,7% alcohol, 3 g/l residual sugar, 6,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,38. Tasted blind.
Youthful and moderately translucent dark ruby red color. Ripe, juicy and somewhat sweet-toned nose with brooding aromas of black cherries, some licorice, a little bit of marmaladey blackberry, light plummy tones, hints of savory wood spice and sweeter toasty oak and a floral touch of rose petals. The wine is ripe, juicy and moderately full-bodied on the palate with somewhat sweet-toned flavors of black cherries and strawberries, some licorice, a little bit of savory oak spice, light floral notes of roses, a hint of mocha and a touch of tobacco. The overall feel is firm and balanced with the quite high acidity and sparse yet quite grippy tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is quite long, moderately grippy and somewhat warm with juicy flavors of strawberries, some red plums, a little bit of licorice, light cherry tones, a sweet hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A quite big and ripe but also enjoyably balanced and tasty example of a new world Nebbiolo. Comes across like a balanced and well-made modernist Langhe Nebbiolo or Barbaresco with a sunny Californian overall quality. Although I’d love to see a bit more tannins and less use of oak, this wine certainly shows that Nebbiolo can produce surprisingly serious wines outside Italy. Most likely this will continue to improve at least a handful of years and keep for much longer. Priced according to its quality at $40. (91 pts.)
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2019 Trediberri Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (23.9.2020)
Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. 7 days of maceration. Aged for 6 months in concrete and stainless steel. 14% alcohol. Decanted for 3,5 hours.
Youthful, translucent and beautifully luminous ruby red color with a thin, colorless rim. Super-juicy, youthful and very primary nose with almost candied aromas of strawberries, ripe raspberries, some licorice, a little bit of cherry marmalade and a hint of earthy spice. The wine is round, very youthful and somewhat warm on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and very primary flavors of black raspberries, strawberry jam, some licorice, a little bit of marmaladey red cherry, light fruit candy tones and a hint of exotic spice. The structure relies on the moderately grippy tannins than on the soft medium acidity. The finish is juicy, quite warm and somewhat grippy with medium-long flavors of sweet strawberries, some raspberry candies, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light cherry marmalade tones and a hint of spice.
A soft, mellow and all too primary Nebbiolo. Tastes more like fruit candy due to its overwhelming, primary fruit character and noticeable ripeness. Most likely the wine will gain more balance after 1-2 years in a cellar as the primary fruit flavors fade, hopefully letting the acidity come better to the fore, but I doubt the wine will ever become particularly balanced. Lacks the freshness and seriousness I look for in a Nebbiolo. Somewhat of a disappointment. (82 pts.)
Extremely pale, limpid and very translucent reddish-orange color with a colorless rim. Dry, youthful and somewhat floral nose with aromas of garrigue, dried flowers, some ripe raspberry, a little bit of licorice, light sweet notes of wild strawberries, a hint of ripe red plum and a smoky touch of tar. The wine is ripe, silky and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with juicy yet relatively light flavors of raspberry marmalade, some strawberry, light cherry candy tones, a little bit of overripe red plum, a hint of earthy spice and a touch of something metallic. The overall feel is quite mellow with the moderately high acidity and very gentle, ripe tannins that contribute more to the texture than to the grip. The finish is juicy, medium-long and quite fruity with mellow flavors of wild strawberries, some raspberry candies, a little bit of earth, light gravelly mineral tones and a hint of licorice root.
A ripe, quite soft and very accessible Langhe Nebbiolo - i.e. very unlike the stern and muscular vintage 2016 that came across more like a lighter Barolo. This one lacks the depth, power and grippy structure introduced in that vintage, coming across as fruitier and softer, exhibiting sweeter overall taste and higher alcohol with surprisingly mellow tannins and relatively modest acidity. This is enjoyable as a relatively light and fruity red wine, but quite underwhelming for a Nebbiolo. Drinkable, but nothing particularly memorable. Probably best for earlier consumption - doesn’t show that much cellaring potential. (85 pts.)
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2018 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (23.9.2020)
The fruit is sourced from old Vigna del Castello vineyard in Sinio, outside the Barolo region, but some lots from Vigna del Pozzo in Castiglone Falletto in the Barolo region are blended in. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Aged first for 8 months in stainless steel and then for a further year in large Slavonian oak casks. 13,5% alcohol. Decanted for 4 hours.
Pale, beautifully luminous and very translucent cherry red color with a brick-orange hue and a colorless rim. Seductively fragrant, floral and subtly sweet-toned nose with aromas of licorice, red cherries, some cool herbal tones, a little bit of jammy strawberry, light notes of rose hips, a perfumed hint of rose petals and a mineral touch of warm sun-baked rocks. The wine is dry, savory and wonderfully focused on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of cherries, raspberries, some rowanberry marmalade, light fruity notes of arctic bramble, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, a ferrous hint of iron and a touch of smoky earthiness. The overall feel is quite tightly-knit with the high acidity and balanced, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, dry and quite grippy with bright flavors of brambly raspberries, some blood, a little bit of cherry, light floral notes of roses, a hint of arctic bramble and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A beautiful, classic and very balanced Langhe Nebbiolo with a very fresh, bright and harmonious feel despite the relatively warm vintage. This wine wasted tasted alongside the vintage 2017, and while that one felt weightier and more concentrated, it’s really hard to assess which one was better. They are like two sides to the same coin - the 2017 felt more like a Baby Barolo, while this one feels lighter and more delicate, but not baby anything - more like a serious Barbaresco or Roero Nebbiolo than a “mere” Langhe Nebbiolo. Fine stuff, but all too youthful at the moment. Needs both food and some hearty food if opened now - however, I’d wait for at least 5-8 years more with this one. Expect the score to go up with age. Recommended. (92 pts.)
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2017 Cascina Fontana Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (23.9.2020)
The fruit is sourced from old Vigna del Castello vineyard in Sinio, outside the Barolo region, but some lots from Vigna del Pozzo in Castiglione Falletto in the Barolo region are blended in. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Aged first for 8 months in stainless steel and then for a further year in large Slavonian oak casks. 14% alcohol. Decanted for 4 hours.
Quite translucent dark ruby color with brick-red highlights. Quite big, fruity and somewhat sweet-toned nose with brooding aromas of black cherries, licorice root, some dusty earth, a little bit of charred meat, light marmaladey notes of strawberries, a hint of sappy herbal character and a touch of sweet blueberry. The wine is ripe, moderately full-bodied and quite rich on the palate with surprisingly dry flavors juicy raspberries, some sour cherry bitterness, light gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of sanguine iron, a crunchy hint of cranberry and a touch of licorice. The overall feel is pretty stern and tightly-knit with the assertive and relatively tough tannins and high acidity. The finish is pretty tightly-knit, somewhat warm and quite tannic with long flavors of raspberries, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light earthy tones, hints of licorice and anise and a touch of smoke.
A very stern, serious and structured Nebbiolo that is more like a true Barolo than a “mere” Langhe Nebbiolo. The wine feels slightly more closed and less expressive than in February when I had the wine last time, but this is nevertheless pretty impressive and thoroughly well-made stuff. Seeing how youthful, structured and relatively tough the wine is, I can see it evolving easily for another decade or so. Despite the warm vintage, the wine comes across as surprisingly balanced with the fresh acidity and good sense of precision. Great old-school stuff and definitely among the best Langhe Nebbiolos I know. (91 pts.)
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2017 Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (23.9.2020)
From what I’ve understood (couldn’t find confirmation), this Langhe Nebbiolo is made mostly with purchased fruit. 14% alcohol. Decanted for 4 hours.
Clear, very translucent and quite pale ruby red color. Savory and somewhat restrained nose of licorice, some smoky tones, a little bit of dark forest fruit, light mineral notes of sun-baked rocks and earth, a hint of old leather and a touch of ripe red plums. The wine is quite full-bodied and very ripe on the palate with rather tightly-knit and very dry flavors of ripe dark forest fruits, some leather, light notes of earth, a little bit of licorice root and a hint of gravelly minerality. The overall feel is pretty lean with the high acidity and moderately grippy tannins, yet the mouthfeel is surprisingly suave and silky. The finish is quite tight and tannic with dry flavors of sour cherries, some tart cranberries, a little bit of earth, light gravelly mineral notes and a hint of licorice root.
A ripe yet enjoyably structured Nebbiolo that feels relatively understated fruit-wise. I can imagine this kind of tannic wine might feel excessively tough and aggressive for many, but I found this structurally very enjoyable. However, flavor-wise the wine came across as relatively linear and simple, lacking the depth I look for in a Bartolo Mascarello. This wasn’t a bad wine in any way, it just didn’t leave a lasting impression. Hopefully it will open up and pick up some depth and complexity in the cellar. Let it wait for a long time - this is built for it. (89 pts.)
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2016 Burzi Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
The fruit is sourced from several vineyards in La Morra, planted to 100% Nebbiolo Lampia clone and aged from 25 to 60 years of age. Macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged in 3000-liter Austrian oak botti casks. 14,5% alcohol.
Pale, translucent brick-orange color. Big, brooding and quite impressive nose with bold and attractive aromas of cherry marmalade, some strawberry, light pomegranate tones, a little bit of smoky funk, sweet nuances of very ripe figs, a hint of wizened red plums and a touch of pipe tobacco. Despite the intensity, the nose isn’t overwhelming, but instead quite elegant and fine-tuned. The wine is ripe, dry and juicy on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of juicy black raspberries, some succulent red plums, light sanguine notes of raw meat, a little bit of funky, savory spice, a hint of crunchy cranberry and a mineral touch of gravelly earth. The overall feel is textural and quite silky with a relatively gentle structure that relies more on the moderately high acidity than on the gentle, well-behaved medium tannins. The high alcohol lends some warmth to the palate. The finish is ripe, gently tannic and quite long with dry flavors of crunchy cranberries, some tart red plums, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light brambly notes of black raspberries, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of tobacco.
A lovely, clean and attractive Barolo. Quite textural and accessible for its age, lacking the tough, tightly-knit tannins one would expect from a Nebbiolo clocking at 4 years of age. The overall style is quite gentle, transparent and more concentrated on the purity of fruit than on power and structure. It’s hard to assess whether this will be a long-lived wine, but the wine is drinking mighty well right now and probably for the next 4-6 years. Definitely a wine made for the fans of classicist, Burgundian wines, but probably not one for those who equate power, concentration and extraction with quality. (92 pts.)
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2016 Trediberri Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
Fruit sourced from several plots in La Morra, including 20% from the Capalot Cru. Fermented spontaneously in concrete tanks with a pied de cuve started with indigenous yeasts. 2 weeks of maceration over the fermentation, followed by a week of post-fermentative maceration. Aged for 21 months in 2500 and 5200-liter Slavonian oak botti casks, then blended together in concrete and plastic tanks, left to settle for some months and then bottled. 14% alcohol.
Moderately dark yet translucent brick-red color with a thin, colorless rim. Somewhat restrained and slightly dusty nose with fine-tuned, savory aromas of sun-baked earth, dark forest fruits, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of ripe cranberry, light juicy notes of wild strawberries and a hint of red cherry. The wine is dense, moderately full-bodied and quite tightly-knit on the palate with bright, clean flavors of black raspberries, some crunchy red plums, light ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light notes of tobacco and a hint of earth. Very classicist overall feel. Good, firm structure with its high acidity and quite assertive tannins. The finish is dry, juicy and quite tannic with long, clean flavors of cranberries, some sour cherries, a little bit of bloody game, light stony mineral tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of tar.
A ripe yet enjoyably muscular and just enough austere Barolo that shows quite a bit of fruit without coming across as particularly fruity. Very serious effort with a sinewy, structure-driven overall feel. Doesn’t feel particularly primary, but it is very obvious that this is a mere baby now and the wine is brimming with aging potential. Somewhat approachable now - especially with something hearty to chew on while drinking this - but will be so much better with age. Delicious and very promising Barolo made in uncompromising old-school style. Much better than the 2014 and 2015 vintages. Highly recommended. (93 pts.)
Moderately dark yet translucent brick-red color with a wide, almost colorless rim. Sweet, fragrant and very floral nose with seductive aromas of roses and dried flowers, some strawberries, a little bit of licorice, light gravelly mineral tones, a brambly hints of boysenberries and arctic bramble and a touch of cloudberry jam. The wine is noticeably ripe and juicy on the palate with a full body and quite intense flavors of strawberries, some licorice, light brambly notes of boysenberries and arctic bramble, a little bit of earth and a hint of fresh red cherry. The overall feel is quite structured with the moderately high acidity and quite grippy tannins, yet the wine feels quite approachable with a silky smooth texture. The high alcohol lends some noticeable heat to the palate. The finish is quite tannic with ripe and very juicy yet dry flavors of black cherries, some gravelly minerality, light meaty notes of umami, a little bit of jammy raspberry, a hint of earth and a floral touch of rose petals.
A very ripe yet serious Barolo with a beautiful, fragrant nose. However, on the palate the wine comes across as very rich and juicy with surprisingly much emphasis on the sweet fruit tones and rather high alcohol. While not soft in any way, this wine feels - quite surprisingly - more ripe and sweet-fruited than the 2015 vintage, which showed more firmness and carried its high alcohol better. I don’t know if the winery just has a microclimate that favored 2015 over 2016. Nevertheless, this is good and thoroughly old-school stuff. Not as good as their 2015, but close enough. Will get better in a cellar. Recommended. (92 pts.)
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2016 Alessandria Silvio Barolo Bricco Chiesa - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
All the grapes are sourced from the Bricco Chiesa Cru located in the comune of La Morra. It’s made with Nebbiolo clones Michet and Lampia. Average production 3000 bottles. 15% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite pale and quite translucent red color with a burnt clay hue. Very big, lush and seductive nose with quite powerful aromas sweet black cherries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of exotic spice and allspice, light marmaladey notes of raspberries, a hint of wizened red fruits and a touch of juicy dark plums. The wine is rich, full-bodied and quite noticeably warm on the palate with intense and surprisingly oak-driven flavors of very ripe black cherries, chocolatey mocha oak, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light caramel tones, a hint of raspberry marmalade and a balsamic touch of VA. The structure relies more on the assertive and noticeably grippy tannins than on the soft medium acidity. The finish is warm, juicy and tannic with long, powerful flavors of ripe dark fruits, some sweet toasty oak, a little bit of chocolatey mocha character, light jammy notes of red fruits, a hint of caramel and a touch of allspice.
An impressively tannic but also noticeably ripe and quite lush Barolo with a rather polished, oak-driven taste. The nose here was wonderfully complex and attractively harmonious, showing barely any oaky tones, but on the palate the wine turned out to be of completely different style, coming across as very modern with heavy emphasis on sweet, oaky flavors of chocolatey mocha and caramel. Furthermore, the acidity feels surprisingly soft here for a 2016 Nebbiolo and the alcohol gets a tad too pronounced - it feels as though the already noticeably ripe 2015 vintage of this same wine was more balanced than this one, even though 2015 was much warmer by any standards and 2016 was supposed to be a great, classic vintage. All in all, despite its beautiful nose and terrific tannic structure I found this wine a bit too hard to appreciate. It is just too oaky, sweet and high in alcohol for my taste. Perhaps it suits a Napa Cab-appreciating palate much better. (88 pts.)
Quite pale and fully translucent ruby red color with a little bit of bricking, especially towards the limpid rim. Very attractive but also quite restrained and slightly dusty nose with dry aromas of sweet strawberries, some sandy earth tones, a little bit of salty liquorice, light gamey notes, a hint of fresh black cherry and a touch of rose hip. The wine is dry, silky and wonderfully textural on the palate with a proportionate, moderately full body and vibrant, savory flavors of black raspberries, some fresh cherries, light earthy tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, a hint of leather and a touch of alcohol warmth. The overall feel is not flashy, just very suave and harmonious. Very impressive, tightly-wound structure of high acidity and assertive, grippy tannins. The finish is quite dry, rather tannic and pretty savory with bright flavors of gravelly earth, some black cherries, light brambly notes of raspberries, a little bit of old leather, a sanguine hint of iron and a touch of sweeter, darker fruits.
A beautifully stern, wonderfully unapologetic and thoroughly old-school Barolo. This is definitely not an accessible crowdpleaser. Although Cristian Boffa is a newcomer to the Barolo producer scene, the wine is as classic as any good old-school Barolo. There are lots of things going on here, but they are not definitely in-your-face; rather, the wine is attractively understated and fine-tuned with a great sense of harmony between the body, the structure and the nuanced flavors. All in all the wine is still very tightly-knit and structure-driven in style, probably calling for more than 10 years before the wine hits its drinking window. Seeing how youthful the wine is now, I doubt the wine is going to show its best before its 20th birthday, so I heartily recommend to stock up on this now and start enjoying them bottles only after a fair period of time. Very highly recommended. (94 pts.)
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2016 Curto Marco Barolo La Foia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
An organic Barolo from La Morra, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and aged in oak casks. Bottled with minimal sulfites. 14,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and rather luminous yet pretty translucent dark ruby color with a pinkish rim. Youthful, rather primary and somewhat sweetish nose with vibrant aromas of ripe red fruits, some bretty funk and notes of leather saddle, light black cherry tones, a little bit of brambly raspberry, a hint of peppery spice and a more savory touch of phenolic bretty spice. The wine is ripe, quite big and full-bodied on the palate with moderately concentrated and slightly funky flavors of ripe black cherries, some bretty notes of barnyard funk, a little bit of new leather, light licorice root tones, a bright red-toned hint of brambly raspberry and a rustic touch of phenolic spice. The overall feel is still very tightly-knit with the high acidity and still rather substantial and grippy tannins. The finish is very long, noticeably grippy and quite powerful with lengthy and intense flavors of ripe black cherries, some funky stable floor tones, a little bit of soft dark plum, light sanguine notes, a hint of phenolic spice and a sweet touch of sunny red-toned fruit.
A beautifully structured, enjoyably rustic and dead-serious Barolo made in an unpolished and unapologetically old-school style. The wine has its share of bretty funk, but the wine doesn’t come across excessively funky or at all natty. No, instead it is very alike the similarly rustic Barolos of G. Rinaldi and B. Mascarello. True to the spectacular vintage 2016, the wine is still very tightly-wound with its noticeably structure-driven style. Shows tons of promise for future development, and while not particularly approachable at the moment, the wine is very impressive all the same. Hands down among the greatest Barolo wines of 2016 I’ve had. Probably I need to keep my eyes peeled in case a random bottle happened to pass me by, because if you like classic, rustic Italian reds, this is definitely stuff you’ll want to fill your cellar with. (95 pts.)
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2016 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Grinzane Cavour - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
A traditionalist Barolo made with organically farmed grapes sourced from a 1-hectare vineyard located in the comune of Grinzane Cavour. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 30-40 days with the skins and aged in large Slavonian oak botti casks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 15,5% alcohol.
Luminous and very translucent ruby-red color with a brick-orange hue. Fragrant and dense yet not super-rich nose with aromas of very ripe cherries and dark forest fruits, some licorice root, a little bit of smoky earth, light floral notes of rose petals, a hint of wizened red plums and a funky touch of animale. The high alcohol lends a boozy touch to the nose. The wine is noticeably concentrated, full-bodied and quite hot on the palate with very ripe, dry-ish and intense flavors of soft black cherries, some gravelly minerality, light licorice root tones, a little bit of sweet red plums, a floral hint of roses and a touch of something vaguely funky. The high alcohol lends some obvious heat and the overall feel is quite stern and muscular with the high acidity and quite ample and chewy yet not overtly grippy tannins. The finish is very long, quite hot and rather grippy with intensely juicy flavors of black cherries, some juicy red plums, a little bit of stony minerality, light earthy tones, a hint of licorice root and a touch of farmhouse funk.
A complex, powerful and VERY ripe Barolo that - contrary to expectations - isn’t as over-the-top as the high alcohol (15,5%!) would lead you to believe. The 2015 vintage was clocking at “only” 15%, yet it felt blowzy and overtly porty in style, and while stylistically this vintage feels even more ripe with higher alcohol, the wine seems to come across as more balanced and harmonious than the 2015 vintage. Compared to the Paiagallo 2016 that was tasted alongside, this Grinzane Cavour 2016 is more muscular and tightly-knit, showing more aging potential, while Paiagallo seems more open for business right now. However, seeing how super-ripe these Canonica Barolos are, I really don’t see them aging as long as the best Barolos out there. Although as old-school as it gets, I’d still argue these wines are meant to be drunk before or around their 10th birthday, not kept for decades. Furthermore, while these wines are very impressive, they still don’t speak to me that much. Although I love old-school Barolo above almost any other style of wine, I prefer old-school Barolos with less weight and ripeness and more emphasis on finesse. (91 pts.)
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2016 Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
A traditionalist Barolo made with organically farmed grapes sourced from a 1,5-hectare Paiagallo vineyard; while Canonica is not the only producer having holdings in this Cru, he is the only one making single-vineyard Barolo from this Cru. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, macerated for 30-40 days with the skins and aged in large Slavonian oak botti casks. 15,5% alcohol.
Luminous and very translucent ruby-red color with a brick-orange highlights. Almost identical with Canonica Grinzane Cavour 2016, only very slightly paler in hue. Sweet, complex and slightly wild nose with somewhat restrained aromas of very ripe black cherries, some licorice, a little bit of sun-baked earth, light lifted notes of balsamic VA, a hint of boysenberry jam and a touch of boozy alcohol that seems to singe the hairs in your nostrils. The wine is very ripe, concentrated and quite voluptuous on the palate with a remarkably full body and quite intense flavors of sweet black cherries, raspberry jam, some wizened figs, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light lifted notes of balsamic VA, a hint of overripe boysenberries and a touch of licorice. The high alcohol lends some obvious heat to the palate. Overall the wine has a firm yet silky texture with its moderately high acidity and ample yet relatively smooth, textural and ripe tannins. The long finish is rich, ripe and quite grippy with concentrated and moderately weighty flavors of black cherries, some blackberry jam, a little bit of balsamic VA, light wizened figs, a hint of boozy alcohol and a touch of earth.
A massively big and ripe Barolo with tons of everything and then some. Even though vintage 2015 was warmer (well, hotter) than 2016, this wine seems to show more weight and ripeness than Paiagallo 2015. However, it might be possible that Canonica’s vines could’ve shut down at some point in 2015, because the wine felt somewhat off-balance and slightly green, while this is remarkably balanced and harmonious for such a blockbuster Barolo. Although the alcohol level is ridiculously high, the wine carries it with surprising ease. Compared to the Canonica Grinzane Cavour 2016, this wine is silkier, less muscular and more fruity in style, coming across as relatively accessible despite its young age. While Grinzane Cavour 2016 seems like a wine that could actually evolve in a cellar, this Paiagallo doesn’t seem like a wine meant for prolonged aging. It might develop for a handful of years, but I doubt this super-ripe Canonica style lends itself that well for cellaring purposes. I can imagine this will drink better now than in +10 years. All in all, a bit too ripe, weighty and over-the-top in style for my taste, but still surprisingly enjoyable an effort for the style. (90 pts.)
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2016 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
A blend of fruit from Ravera, Cannubi-San Lorenzo and Le Coste. Until 2009 the wine was known as Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera, but changed to Tre Tine in 2010 after the law was changed so that the label couldn’t bear multiple Barolo Crus. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Macerated for a month with the skins. Aged for 3½ years in large botti casks. 14% alcohol.
Rather pale and very translucent brick-red color with a pale, burnt clay orange rim. Somehow reticent yet still quite concentrated nose of black cherries, some balsamic VA, a little bit of sweet smoke, light sweet nuances of soft strawberries, bretty hints of leather and stable floor and a touch of raspberry jam. Overall the nose feels surprisingly clean (i.e. not obviously funk) for a Rinaldi. The wine is textural, youthful and savory on the palate with a moderately full body with dry and quite intense flavors of stony minerality, old dry leather, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of juicy dark plum, light earthy tones and sweeter hint of wizened dark berries. The overall feel is pretty firm and structured with its high acidity and ample, grippy tannins, although slightly less so than Rinaldi Brunate 2016. The finish is ripe, juicy and quite grippy with long, dry flavors of black cherries, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of leathery funk, light sanguine notes of iron, a brambly hint of black raspberries and a touch of tobacco.
A beautiful, textural and harmonious Barolo with outstanding sense of balance between the fruit and the structure. Compared to Rinaldi Brunate 2016, this wine feels slightly lighter and delicate in style, but also showing a bit more restraint on the bretty undertones, while Brunate was slightly more funky in style. While both the wines were quite tannic, neither one of them was particularly aggressive and forbidding even this young. Brunate seemed to have a bit more muscular tannic structure, but ultimately Tre Tine might’ve felt slightly more grippy, as the lighter fruit and body gave more room and presence for the tannins. All in all, I think that Brunate is slightly more impressive in comparison and while the differences of Tre Tine and Brunate are quite minuscule, the wines nevertheless have their differences; Brunate coming across more “Bordelais” and Tre Tine more "Burgundian in style. Most likely Brunate will be the longer-lived wine out of these two, but this Tre Tine is still enormously seductive with its sense of grace and finesse. Very highly recommended. (95 pts.)
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2016 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Macerated for a month with the skins. Aged for 3½ years in large botti casks. 14% alcohol.
Rather pale and very translucent brick-red color with a pale, burnt clay orange rim. Fragrant and more savory than sweet nose with an understated hint of bretty funk typical of Rinaldi, followed by fine-tuned aromas of black cherries, some sun-baked earth, a little bit of roasted game, light leathery tones and a hint of balsamico. The wine is dry, sinewy and slightly funky on the palate with a full body and nuanced flavors of ripe cranberries, sour cherry bitterness, meaty umami, some farmhouse funk, a little bit of phenolic peppery spice, light bretty notes of leather saddle, a tart-yet-sweet hint of lingonberry jam and a touch of charred game. The wine is high in acidity with firm, grippy tannins, making the overall feel wonderfully structured but not too aggressive or tightly-wound. The finish is savory, quite grippy and gently funky with very long and quite intense flavors of dark forest fruits, leather saddle, earth, some crunchy cranberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light charred meat tones, a mushroomy hint of truffle and a smoky touch of phenolic spice.
An outstanding old-school Barolo and a textbook example of Rinaldi’s style in youth: the wine is savory and quite tannic, yet remarkably silky and not forbiddingly structure-driven in style despite its young age. The wine speaks volumes on its aging potential, yet it is relatively approachable for such a young Barolo. The fruit here feels wonderfully nuanced and detailed, yet the wine exhibits the typical, rustic funk that is very typical of Rinaldi. The wine isn’t noticeably bretty or funky, but comparing it to cleaner, more polished Nebbiolos makes the funky edge here pretty obvious. All in all, a very beautiful Barolo that has almost everything I want from in a well-made, traditionalist Nebbiolo. Exceptional already now, but can get even better with extended cellaring. At the moment the best 2016 Barolo I’ve tasted. Very highly recommended. (96 pts.)
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2016 Francesco Borgogno Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (23.9.2020)
A traditionalist Barolo from Brunate Cru in La Morra. Macerated with the skins for 30 days, aged for 3 years in 3000-5000 liter Slavonian oak casks and for approximately one year more in bottles before release. 15% alcohol.
Deep, moderately dark and quite translucent ruby red color with a brick-orange hue. Ripe, dark-toned and quite sweetish nose with lush aromas of black cherries, dark plums, some cherry marmalade, light ethery notes of VA, a little bit of boozy alcohol and dried-fruit hints of raisins and dried dates. The wine is noticeably ripe, very full-bodied and quite voluptuous on the palate with a chewy yet somewhat soft mouthfeel and juicy flavors of black cherries, licorice, some jammy strawberry, a little bit of balsamic VA, light sweet notes of dried dates and ripe figs, a hint of blackberry marmalade and a touch of boozy alcohol. The overall feel is quite warm and somewhat lacking in definition, thanks to the medium acidity. The tannins are quite ample and moderately grippy, piling up on the gums. The finish is big, ripe and chewy long, with some obvious alcohol heat and concentrated flavors of black cherries, some licorice root tones, a little bit of overripe strawberry, light bitter notes of sour cherries, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of raspberry jam. The ample tannins make the wine end on a rather grippy note.
A very lush, voluptuous and noticeably ripe Barolo that feels bigger and weightier than your typical Barolo, but at the cost of precision and freshness. The wine is pretty old-school in the sense that it has great tannic backbone and there’s not a smidgen of oak, but the wine is lacking the freshness, brightness and acid cut I look for in a good Nebbiolo. It feels like the fruit quality was high, but it was picked just too late, since the wine is bordering on overripe. I guess the wine might become better and more poised if given enough time in the cellar, but no amount of aging is going to give a wine this big and ripe the freshness and precision that comes with high acidity. Tasting this alongside Rinaldi’s impeccable Barolo Brunate 2016, the differences became even more obvious. But on the other hand, the price of this wine was less than 30€, so I guess it still delivered for the price. (87 pts.)
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