TN: Heinrich Naked White 2017 (Austria)

It’s been a long time since I tried a Heinrich. I remember them for modern style, polished, oaky reds. Hence it was a bit of a surprise to see them go the “natural” route. This Naked White 2017 however goes all trendy and natural: Chardonnay & Pinot Blanc mainly with a dash of the other local varieties; left overnight on skins and stems; spontaneous fermentation in old oak, unfiltered, no added sulphur. Hazy (the label even instructs us to shake the bottle before opening). Lovely sour aromas, reminds me a bit of Cantillon’s beers, grapefruit bitterness, Riesling-like lift and freshness (which is kind of strange since the blend doesn’t use Riesling at all). But there’s also a sweeter undertone to all this, kind of like melon, though not in the cold ferment sense. Delightfully acidic and vivacious, bright fruit, good grip. Many “orange” wines aren’t fun and they can be a bit tough. This still stays on the side of fun and moreish while still being interesting. I like this one quite a bit. Buy again? At c.20€ I think I’ll definitely try it at least once more.