G.D. VARJA SEMINAR; 2018 VS 2019 - Boston University (2/23/2023)
We had the pleasure to attend a tasting of the wines of G.D. Vajra hosted by Gordon's Fine Wines at Boston University and presented by Giuseppe Vajra himself.
While G.D. Vajra is a relative “newcomer” to Piedmont, having only been establish in the late 1940s, the wines are ultra traditional in their fermentation and elevage. The family has been farming organically since the 1970s and takes great pride in their selection massale vineyards. Their Barolos are macerated for approximately 30 days, depending on the vintage, and the wines are typically matured in large neutral Slavonian botti. Many of their vineyards are high elevation, which, combined with the long macerations, tend to produce very aromatic and silky wines.
After two starter flights, the seminar turned to a comparative tasting of the 2018 and 2019 vintages across Vajra’s various crus, including two wines from Luigi Baudana, a small estate the family acquired in 2009 and continues to produce in the original Baudana cellars. The table was set for a very interesting, and enlightening, seminar.
Aperitif
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NV G.D. Vajra N.S. della Neve - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola
A great way to start the seminar and completely unexpected as we've never seen or heard of this wine. As Giuseppe noted, Italians "love French bubbles," so they started making their own. Apparently, this is not widely available outside the winery. It was delicious.
The wine is a 50/50 blend of Nebbiolo and Pinot Nero (Noir) done via Metodo Classico. Most of the grapes come from the Nostra Signora Della Neve vineyard in Roddino. The vineyard is very steep, requiring that all work be performed by hand, from pruning to harvest. The soils are poor and calcareous, which lends a touch of chalky minerality to the wine.
The grapes are harvested early in the morning into small bins which are transferred directly to the winery to preserve maximum acidity and fragrance. The Pinot is direct press juice. The Nebbiolo is saignée and gets about 6 hours of skin contact, which gives the wine its very pale, pink color. The wine is fermented in neutral vessels and spends 60 months (!) on the lees prior to disgorgement.
The wine has a very fine mousse and a delicate nose of strawberries, currant, and peonies. On the palate, the wine adds a dose of dry extract and chalk. The acidity is fantastic and there is a very nice texture to the wine. The finish is long, dry and ever so slightly bitter. A perfect aperitif.
A very nice bottle of bubbles at $30 that certainly gives the "French bubbles" a run for their money.
2021 Dolcetto & Barbera
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2021 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba
This was a wonderful Dolcetto. I will be honest in saying that I often find Dolcetto uninspiring. Perhaps it's not meant to be? Either way, it takes a lot for me to use the word "wonderful" when describing Dolcetto.
The Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati is sourced from selection massale vineyards planted in the late 70s and early 80s when everyone else was tearing up their Dolcetto vines. Apparently, Aldo was a fan of Dolcetto and decided the loss of the varietal from Barolo proper was something he could not suffer. So, as his neighbors tore up their vines, he asked to take cuttings from the healthiest plants, which he then planted in the Coste di Vergne and Fossati vineyards of Barolo. These vineyards could be planted to Nebbiolo and produce a Barolo wine worth twice as much, but it isn't always about $ to the Vajras; it's about preserving a sense of history and place.
Apparently, the vineyards are a beautiful mess of Dolcetto genetics, making the pruning and farming a labor of love. The plants are all different, so they require individual attention. Like all of their vineyards, these grapes are grown organically. The fruit is picked late by Dolcetto standards, which is possible due to the white marl and high elevation of the vineyards. Fermentation lasts two to three weeks. Gentle punch-down and pump-overs are used. Fermentation and aging takes place in neutral vessels and stainless.
As for the wine, it presents with a very deep purple color in the glass with a pink rim. On the nose, the wine is fragrant with notes of sour cherry, licorice and thyme. The palate is silky with good acidity. I would call the wine "juicy," but it has a serious side, as well. It's a Dolcetto that makes you think, which is unusual, at least to me. At $25, it's a great value and a good introduction to how the Vajras approach their wines. -
2021 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba Superiore - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore
Like Dolcetto, Barbera is a wine that I often find uninteresting. This was definitely a step up, as far as Barbera goes, but for me was probably the least impressive wine from the seminar. For those of you who really love Barbera, however, this is a wine to seek out.
Like the Dolcetto, this wine is sourced primarily from old vines that are planted in Barolo proper. In fact, many of the vines are in one of Vajra's famous crus; Bricco delle Viole. The remaining vines are just outside of Barolo in the Bricco Bertone vineyard. "Bricco" often appears in the name of Piemontese vineyards and generally means "top of the hill," so these are high elevation sites. The goal for the "Superiore" is "a Barbera that behaves like a Barolo." In other words, they intend this wine to age and develop complexity with time in the bottle. On that note, macerations are long (~30ish days), like their Barolos, taking place in neutral Slovenian oak botti. Punch downs, pump overs, and submerged cap may all be used, depending on the vintage.
The wine presents with a bright purple color and a garnet rim. The nose smells of blackberries, plum, and a hint of cocoa. On the palate, the wine has zippy acidity and a generous mount feel, along with blue and red fruits. The finish is long and grippy. The wine should age well and I wonder what it might taste like in 15 years.
Coste di Rose Flight
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2018 G.D. Vajra Barolo Coste di Rose - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The tasting of Barolo proper and the comparison of 18s and 19s began on a very strong note with this wine.
Coste di Rose is a small site in Barolo proper located on a steep slope close to the border with Monforte d’Alba. Most of Vajra's vines are situated in the top part of the vineyard, where geological processes have exposed seem of ancient oceanic sandstone. The soils are approximately 50% sand. Giuseppe confessed an urge to plant ungrafted Nebbiolo on the site, but it seems the risks may be too high to stomach.
That said, the sandy soils provide this wine with something special. The wine is very high toned and floral, with impressions of ripe red cherry, rose water, tar, mint, and spice. The texture is the very definition of "silky." The acid is not lacking, but not overt. The finish is long and gives a perception of sweetness to the wine.
This wine demonstrates very clearly the approachable nature of the 2018 vintage. I think a parallel can be drawn to 2009 red Burgundy; ripe without being raisiny and definitely capable of aging. This wine is drinking really well right now, but aging will not likely cause any wrinkles to appear. Drink or hold. -
2019 G.D. Vajra Barolo Coste di Rose - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Continuing the comparison of 2018 vs 2019, we moved onto the 2019 Coste di Rose. As mentioned, this is a small, sandy, steep vineyard.
The 2019 is decidedly more "savory" than the 2018. The wine is still high-toned, due to the site and soil. The red cherry and rose water are still present, but the tar, mint, and spice present on the '18 are here replaced with savory notes of Eucalyptus, thyme, and rosemary. This wine is more tannic and brooding than the '18 and has seemingly higher acidity. The finish is dry and a touch bitter from the more robust tannins.
This wine gave a good introduction to the much more "classic" 2019 vintage. Patience will be required for these wines to fully come together and become seamless, but that's clearly where these are headed. Hold.
Bricco delle Viole Flight
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2018 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The comparative tasting of Vajra's 2018s and 2019s continued with the Bricco delle Viole. As previously mentioned "Bricco" basically means "hill" and is often appeneded to vineyards at the top of various hills in Piedmont. Bricco delle Viole, or "Hill of Violets," is one of the most famous crus in Barolo as it is the highest, rising from 400 to 480 meters above sea level. This elevation puts it above the morning fog, meaning it sees more sun that many other vineyards in Barolo. The elevation, however, also means the vineyard experiences drastic diurnal temperature swings, which helps the grapes ripen slowly, preserving aromatics and acidity.
The 2018 was harvested in mid October and definitely shows the signatures of the vintage; it is easy to love and a pleasure to drink now. Vinification was traditional, with gentle punch down and rinsing of the cap, followed by an extensive period of maceration under submerged cap (cappello sommerso). Malolactic was in stainless steel. Like all of their wines, it was aged in large Slavonian casks for nearly 4 years.
The wine has a beautiful garnet color in the glass. Very transparent. The nose smells of roses and violets with hints of mint and tar. On the palate, the wine presents red fruits, a hint of sweet spice, fine acidity, and a streak of chalky limestone. As with most 2018s, the tannins are very silky and fine, making the wine abundantly approachable, despite its youth. The finish is pleasantly long and slightly tannic. A really fine Barolo. One of my favorites from the tasting. Drink or hold. -
2019 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Upon tasting the 2019 Bricco delle Viole, it became clear there is definitely a savory signature on the wines from this vintage. I would not necessarily call it "pyrazine", but there is an herbaceous quality on the nose; thyme, rosemary, and eucalyptus. Perhaps an ever-so-faint hint of green pepper that may, in fact, come from pyrazines. It wasn't as overt as in a Loire Cab Franc, by way of comparison. Much more subtle and not distracting in any way. It contributes to a sense of robustness in the wines, rather than a sense of being thin or underripe. These notes were present on all of Vajra's 2019s, regardless of the cru.
On the palate, the wine presents bright red fruits; cranberry and strawberry. The fruit is interlaced with a tannic structure that is much more pronounced than on the 2018. Perceived acidity is higher on the 2019. Will this combination of higher perceived acidity and grippier tannins allow the 2019s to age longer or more gracefully than the 2018s? Perhaps. It will be really interesting to see how these wines develop over time.
Ultimately, the 2019 Bricco delle Viole is a very classic presentation of Barolo. It seems a little disjointed at this point, likely because it was only recently botttled, with some characteristics sticking out rather than blending together harmoniously. That said, I firmly, truly believe these rough edges will be worn smooth with time in the bottle. In 5-10 years, this will be a staggeringly good bottle of classicly made Barolo. Hold.
Ravera Flight
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2018 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Its easy to see why the Raveras were placed where they were in the tasting; they are POWERFUL. There is a "WOW" factor when drinking these wines. Ravera is probably the most famous cru in the town of Novello and is composed of a mixture of ancient oceanic marls mixed with sandstones and clay. There is a high proportion of iron and manganese in the soil compared to other parcels farmed by Vajra. The plots Vajra farms are between 320 and 340 meters above sea level, which helps the grapes ripen slowly and retain their aromatics.
Vinification is similar to their other wines; 3x manual sorting, indigenous yeasts, gentle punch downs combined with a period of submerged cap maceration. Malo in the spring, followed by aging for 30ish months in large, neutral Slovanian oak botti.
The first word I wrote when tasting this wine was simply "Wow." The 2018 Ravera is a stunning wine. Beautifully balanced and powerful. The nose is exotic and multi-faceted, inviting you to revisit with your nose as often as possible. The fruit profile is slightly darker than the other 2018s we tried. The wine also has a very clear mineral influence from the iron and manganese. The acidity is more pronounced than on the other 18s, at least to me. The tannins had a bit more grip. The texture borders on umami. In short, this 2018 just had a little "extra" everything. The finish is long and luscious. While this wine is BEGGING to be consumed now, doing so would be a crime. Hold to be rewarded in spades.
My favorite wine of the tasting. -
2019 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Like the 2018 version, Vajra's 2019 Ravera had a "Wow" factor that captures you immediately. By far the best 2019 we tasted.
Vinification is similar to their other wines; 3x manual sorting, indigenous yeasts, gentle punch downs combined with a period of submerged cap maceration. Malo in the wpring. The maceration on the 19 was slightly longer than the 2018 and took place, as usual, in large neutral Slovanian oak casks.
Again, this wine shared the savory qualities displayed by the other 2019s. The fruits were more red and high-toned than the 2018. Think bing cherry, red currant, and red licorice. Definite hints of thyme and sage on the nose. The palate was grippy with tannins and laced with acidity. The finish was mouth watering and long. This was the most fully evolved and "put together" 2019 in the tasting. That said, like the others from this vintage, patience will be rewarded.
This may turn out to be the best 2019 made by the family. Hold.
Luigi Baudana Flight
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2018 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Being a big fan of Vajra prior to this tasting, I am ashamed to admit we were completly ignorant of the family's other set of wines produced under the Luigi Baudana label. The story goes that Luigi and his wife Fiorina did not have an heir and when Luigi started getting older and experienced a health issue in the late 2000s, suddenly everyone became their best friends and started inviting them to dinner and checking on Luigi to see how he was recovering. The overtures were obvious to Luigi and mostly unwelcomed. Where were all of these "friends" throughout the years?
The Vajra family, however, did not make an approach. I am not sure they were even interested in acquiring the estate, but one of Luigi's true friends was also friends with the Vajras and suggested that Luigi go talk to them. He apparently made a secret visit to take a tour of the Vajra estate with some of his friends. I guess he liked what he heard and the very slow, polite, courtship dance began and ultimately concluded with the Vajras agreeing to become the stewards of the Baudana estate and brand. They continue making the wines at the historic Baudana cellars, which are reportedly TINY, and will likely do so in the future.
Regarding the Baudana cru and the wine made therefrom, no one knows whether the family name came before the vineyard and hamlet name, or vice versa. The origin is lost in time. Either way, it is a hidden gem among the vineyards of Serralunga. It was apparently once a very well known and prestigious cru that somehow fell out of prominance. Today producers in the cru, like the Vajras, are working hard to restore it to it's former glory. The vineyard features fossil ladel oceanic marls that have a distinct, bluish tone. In Serralunga d’Alba, Nebbiolo ripens a few days earlier than in Barolo. Vininfication and aging are done in the typical Vajra manner.
The 2018 was one of the most transparent wines in terms of color and robe. This may have been the most "feminine" 2018 we tried, but that may also be just an impression due to the power of the Ravera flight that preceded these wines. The nose was floral with a hint of pine sap and pitch. The acidity was fantastic on this wine and the tannins very supple. The finish was juicy and sweet. Drink or hold. -
2018 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A true "curveball" wine for this tasting. This flight featured two wines from 2018, rather than a 2018 and 2019 from the same cru. The suprise twist? This 2018 Ceretta had the same "savory" signature as the 2019s. When Giuseppe tasted the wine, he assumed, likely due to the herbaceous notes, that this wine was a 2019 Baudana rather than a 2018 Ceretta! Note; the wines were chosen by Gordon's who hosted the tasting.
The soils in Cerretta are a combination of marl and sandstone and vinification is in the typical Vajra style with aging in large, neutral Slovanian botti.
The color is a deep ruby with garnet rim. The wine is probably the most serious and brooding of the 2018s we tasted. On the nose, there is tar and the same savory qualities we found present in the 2019s; thyme, black tea, and eucalyptus, with a hint of balsamic. On the palate, the fruits are dark red; black cherry and cranberry. There is an impression of iron and chalk. The tannins are powerful, but smooth. The finish is long and mouth watering with a pop of mint and menthol.
Perhaps a perfect wine to end with as it seemed to bring together many of the best qualities of both vintages. A great wine in the making, this is one to hold.
This was a fantastic tasting. Vajra's wines are just so pure and transparent. They are exactly what we look for when buying Nebbiolo.
One conclusion we drew from this fabulous seminar is that the vintage and producer have a very distinct influence on the way a Barolo presents and that the terroir has a secondary, but noticeable, impact. In other words, the similarities imparted to the wine by the vintage were more prominent than those imparted by site. Perhaps over time, the site signature will move to the forefront and the vintage variation will recede? It might be interesting to do this same tasting with older wines. Enlightening, either way.
So, which vintage did we prefer; 2018 or 2019? Well, it is not a fair question, really. Both vintages are fantastic and you would be lucky to own some from each. Ultimately, we preferred the 2018s due to their approachability. The wines are just so, so charming. It doesn't help that 2018 is our son's birth year, so perhaps there is a little selection/confirmation bias coming into play.
The fact that the 2019s had only recently been bottled may have also handicapped those wines, which I truly believe will turn out to be amazing wines in ~10 years.
Ultimately, if you like easy to drink, not overtly tannic Barolos, go with 2018. If you like them more classically tannic and don't mind the savory/herbaceous note we found present in all of the 19s, I am quite certain that vintage will reward patience in the long term.
Posted from CellarTracker