This Friday four notes on four examples of Loire fizz (“The Friday Fizz Four”?), all distinctive in their own way, all fine for drinking now, and all relatively inexpensive.
Two ‘commercial’ wines to start, first up the Flamme d’Or cuvée from Gratien & Meyer, a very large producer based near Saumur, their headquarters a distinictive art deco edifice lookingdown onto the Loire itself. I must confess I don’t tend to drink much from Gratien & Meyer, as I have always associated them with the commercial, profits-through-quantity side of the sparkling wine business. This cuvée, however, was very good indeed, rich, satisfying and yet firm and fresh as all Loire sparklers should be.
Bouvet-Ladubay is similarly commercial, an old firm established in 1851 they buy in fruit from over 150 growers to turn out a complex array of wines some of which in my experience can be very good. I often find the cheaper cuvées, such as the Mlle Ladubay range which is intended for supermarket shelves to be more appetising than the more pricy cuvées, some of which are tarted up with too much oak, residual sugar or fluffy packaging, whereas the ‘lesser’ wines with their freshness, acid and ‘lick-a-stone’ mouthfeel speak much more of the Loire to me. The Rubis is a blend of Cabernet, Gamay and Grolleau and although a demi-sec I’ve never had any problem with the sugar on the palate.
Gratien & Meyer Flamme d’Or Crémant de Loire NV: Current release. A ‘golden flame’ if the name is to be believed, but I am happy to write that this wine is much more typical of the Loire than that rich and exuberant title suggests. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, the colour is pale, pale straw, and the bead plentiful, giving a bone-white head of bubbles. The nose is quite delightful, with elements of stone fruit, especially white peach and even mango. This carries through onto the palate, where there are notes of tangerine too. But what keeps it in the Loire is a dry texture, creamy minerality and fresh, vivacious acidity. There are even notes of vanillla, but reminiscent of a fresh seed pod more than anything effusively oaky. A very stylishly composed wine indeed. Drink now to get it at its best, I suspect. 17.5+/20 (September 2009)
Bouvet-Ladubay Rubis Rouge Excellence Demi-Sec NV: Current release. A blend of Cabernet, Gamay and Grolleau. Dark, dusty, black cherry hue, and a vibrant purple froth when poured into the glass. Why do some sparkling reds give a clear/white froth, and others purple? On the nose crunchy dark fruits, plum skin and cherry stone character, with a touch of fatty smoke. Nice weight, a little fleshy but not over the top, well-judged residual sugar giving some body rather than sweetness, balancing out the smoky, crunchy fruits. More summery in style on the palate, with strawberry and loganberry alongside the more grippy fruit elements noted on the nose. Nice, gentle mousse, and just a little tannin in the finish. Good. 16/20 (September 2009)
A move upriver from Saumur to the Touraine duo of Vouvray and Montlouis is necessary for the next two wines. In the case of these two, an interesting comparison of two low-sugar cuvées from Jacky Blot and François Pinon. First up the Triple Zero from Jacky Blot, a cuvée named for the ‘no added sugar’ approach as outlined in my note below. This is a very good wine, although the midpalate is a little flat, something I find with a lot of examples of the extra-brut style. On this occasion I take more pleasure from Pinon’s Non-Dosé cuvéé, but I would be very happy drinking either of these two wines, or indeed either of the two described above.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Pétillant Triple Zero NV: Purchased Summer 2009. The ‘triple zero’ denotes no added sugar at fermentation, or with the liqueur de tirage or indeed with the dosage. This wine has a pale hue and a very subtle bead, with just a few streams of moderately small bubbbles. The nose caries the aromas of sweet, ripe and perfumed dessert apples and a light minerality, very soft in style, suggesting richness. In the mouth it has a creamy entry, is bone dry underneath, with a slightly flat midpalate but lovely style though, with lots of appley, chalky Chenin character. More creamy again at the finish. Great acidity here despite the slightly soft-focus fruit, and a gentle mousse. Supple, full, cream-soda mouthfeel with a bitter edge just at the finish. Moderate length. This is very entertaining, stylish, dry and a great aperitif. 16.5/20 (September 2009)
François Pinon Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé NV: Purchased Summer 2008, at the domaine. A pale golden hue on inspection, and a plentiful bead - as I have noted before. The nose has a lovely, green, nettly, minerally character, with a impressive rocky edge too. Following on the palate has a rich and slightly creamy character, although there’s no doubt that this is wine defined by crispness, freshness and acidity. Lovely, fresh, sour and sappy, juicy and mouth-watering, this is a delightful wine which makes great drinking on a warm day (rare I know) or as a fresh aperitif. Delicious. 17/20 (September 2009)