TN: For Greek wine geeks: Nykteri vs. Xinomavro

WINE TALK
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Well, this really wasn’t a whites versus reds stand-off, but just an interesting tasting on Greek wines in two flights: the first one showcasing a bunch of different Santorini Nykteris and the second one being a mini-vertical of Kir-Yianni’s Ramnista Xinomavro.

A small preface for those unfamiliar with Greek wines: Nykteri is the traditional high-quality dry white of Santorini, which is often the most expensive flagship wine of most wineries.

Historically three styles of wines were made in Santorini: the most esteemed was the unctuous and virtually indestructible Vinsanto made from raisined white grapes; then there was the rustic Brusco that was made from either red grapes or lesser-quality white grapes that were heaped on the winery vat floor during the harvest and once the harvest was over, the grapes were stomped with feet, resulting in a rough, astringent and already partially oxidized dry wine, that could’ve been very high in alcohol if it was mainly Assyrtiko and relatively low if it was made with red grapes, as those rarely attain high must weights in Santorini; and finally Nychteri or Nykteri (roughly translating to “nighttime” or “night job”) that was made with high-quality white grapes that were picked during the nighttime when the air and the grape bunches were cool and pressed directly before the sun rose - these wines were mainly or entirely made from Assyrtiko and used to be much more valued than the everyday Brusco. Historically all the wines of Santorini were more or less oxidative, but Nykteri was made so that it was protected from oxygen as much as possible, so it was noticeably closer to the style of contemporary white wines if compared to any other style of Santorini wines.

The modern style of Nykteri might bear relatively little resemblance to the historic examples of the style, but the requirements for the wine still reflect the historic winemaking processes: the wine is required to be made predominantly or completely with Assyrtiko, but the fruitier, lower-acid varieties Aidani and Athiri are permitted; the wine is required to age for at least 3 months in oak, but many producers barrel-age their wines for 12 to 18 months; the wine must be made from late-harvested grape varieties, so Nykteris are virtually always higher in alcohol than the straight Assyrtikos, unless the proportion of Athiri and/or Aidani in the blend is high. When I visited Santorini in 2016, I noticed there was a lot of stylistic variation between the wineries especially in Nykteri and many wines were made in a “modern”, rather oak-driven style; fortunately the wines in this tasting showed much more judicious use of oak - a really welcome change.

Kir-Yianni’s Ramnista is a Xinomavro, and although it isn’t the winery’s flagship wine, it is perhaps their best-known wine. It is made with grapes sourced from the vineyards surrounding the winery in Naoussa, Greece, which are divided into plots by the soil type and different clones of Xinomavro. Typically the wine is macerated for 12-15 days with the skins, then aged for 18 months in French and American oak 225-liter barriques (75%) and 500-liter demi-muids (25%), of which 25% new oak, 75% used and finally bottled lightly filtered. In this tasting we had not only the regular Ramnista bottlings, but also a trio of special-release 2011 Ramnista made only from certain parcels that were vinified and bottled separately. It was very interesting to taste through these different parcel versions, as they showed more variation between each other than the different vintages of regular Ramnista!
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  • 2019 Gaia Nychteri - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (4.4.2021)
    This is the re-interpretation of Gaia Barrel-Fermented Assyrtiko: now it is mainly Assyrtiko with a little bit of Aidani and Athiri blended together, fermented and aged in French oak barriques and larger casks. 14% alcohol.

Quite intense yellow-green color. Intense and moderately oak-driven nose, but not overdone in any way. Aromas of ripe lemony citrus fruits, creamy oak, some salty liquorice, a little bit of savory wood spice and vanilla, a hint of pineapple and a touch of coconut. The wine feels ripe, intense and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with concentrated flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and spicy red apple, somewhat pronounced notes of salty liquorice-fruit candies, a little bit of pineapple, light creamy notes of oak, a hint of vanilla and a smoky touch of toasted wood. The medium-to-moderately high acidity keeps the wine quite nicely in balance, although the wine comes across as a bit softer and more round than Santorini wines typically do - probably a combination of warm vintage and inclusion of lower-acidity Aidani and Athiri. Long, layered and quite persistent finish with an intense, tangy aftertaste of saline minerality, ripe citrus fruits, salty liquorice, some fresh apple tones, a little bit of vanilla, light savory notes of oak spice, a hint of candle smoke and a touch of grilled pineapple.

A very ripe and still very youthful Santorini white. In our tasting of six Nykteris, this was the only one with very obvious oak influence - the other wines were obviously aged in oak, but unlike this wine, didn’t exhibit any overt oak aromatics. While the oak notes here felt a bit unintegrated at this point, the wine didn’t come across as overdone or over-oaked, just too young for its own good. I can imagine the wine come together much better after another 4-6 years in a cellar. A good and enjoyable effort, although lacking a bit in the acidity department. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 31€. (89 pts.)

  • 2019 Gavalas Winery Assyrtiko Nykteri - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (4.4.2021)
    Although Nykteri is often a blend of Assyrtiko, Aidani and Athiri, Gavalas Nykteri is 100% Assyrtiko. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for 6-8 months in light-toast French oak barriques. Annual production 5000 bottles. 14% alcohol.

Pale straw yellow color. Clean, fruity nose with aromas of fresh peach and cantaloupe, some floral notes of apple blossom, light primary nuances of candied gummi bear character, a little bit of creamy richness and a hint of juicy citrus fruits. Clean and quite textbook Santorini nose, but perhaps with a very ripe and candied edge. The wine feels bright, focused and medium-bodied on the palate with intense flavors of tangy salinity, ripe lemony citrus fruits, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of juicy golden apple, light fruity notes of white peach, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of cantaloupe. The overall feel is balanced and structured. The finish is ripe, quite intense and somewhat fruit-forward with bright flavors of tangy salinity, sweet Golden Delicious apple, some cantaloupe, a little bit of ripe orange, light candied notes of gummi bear, a hint of creamy richness and a touch of savory wood spice.

A balanced, tasty and well-made Nykteri, although not a particularly characterful or memorable one. Shows good sense of structure despite all the ripeness, but lacking a bit in depth - perhaps the wine will gain some additional complexity as it ages and loses its candied primary fruit? What’s great here, though, is that the wine isn’t such an oak monster as it was a few vintages ago when I last tasted it! Now the oak use feels very judicious, letting the Assyrtiko character stay much better to the fore and keeping the woody tones in the background where they belong. It feels Gavalas is moving into the right direction with this label. I can imagine this will get better with a few additional years in a cellar, but it will keep for much longer. Priced according to its quality at 27,30€. (90 pts.)

Quite pale lemon-yellow color. Noticeably ripe, solar and even somewhat alcohol-heavy nose that immediately reminds me more of Alsatian hot-vintage Pinot Gris, not Santorini. Aromas of overripe golden apples, waxy tones, some apricot, a little bit of boozy fusel alcohol, light notes of plastic and a hint of petrol smoke. The wine feels noticeably ripe, quite oily and moderately ponderous on the palate with a full body and lush flavors of overripe apples, waxy tones, some boozy alcohol, a little bit of pear juice, light notes of acacia honey and a hint of sweet nectarine. Medium-plus acidity. The alcohol lends some obvious warmth to the palate. The finish is rich, concentrated and moderately warm with bold flavors of overripe apple, waxy tones, some sweet nectarine, a little bit of cantaloupe, light plastic notes, slightly oxidative hints of nuttiness or bread and a touch of savory wood spice.

A rather atypical example of Santorini white - had this wine been tasted blind, I would’ve guessed an Alsatian Pinot Gris from a hot vintage. It is heavy, oily and excessively high in alcohol; normally Santorini whites carry their relatively high alcohol with surprising ease, but this wine does not. It is lacking badly in the typical Santorini characteristics of minerality, salinity and incisive acidity, instead emphasizing sweet and borderline overripe fruit. Lacking in balance, this wine isn’t fun to drink. It gets rather unpleasant quite quickly and doesn’t feel like it would pair well with any dishes I can come up with. Heavily overpriced for the quality at 42€. (79 pts.)

  • 2018 Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko Nykteri - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (4.4.2021)
    Although Nykteri is often a blend of Assyrtiko, Aidani and Athiri, this Nykteri is 100% Assyrtiko. First the grapes are crushed and left to macerate with the skins for 12 hours. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. 14% alcohol.

Pale straw yellow color. Ripe and subtly wild nose with aromas of lemon-driven citrus fruits, some sweet golden apple tones, a little bit of waxy character, light steely notes of minerality, a hint of nuttiness or savory wood spice and a touch of alcohol. The wine feels ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and rather concentrated on the palate with intense flavors of ripe citrus fruits, tangy salinity, some white peach, a little bit of stony minerality, light oak notes of creaminess and savory wood spice, a hint of chopped nuts and a touch of steely minerality. The alcohol stays surprisingly well-hidden and the rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is bright, tangy and quite saline with intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sweeter notes of juicy white fruits, light creamy tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of waxy character and a touch of alcohol warmth.

A classic, harmonious Nykteri. The wine doesn’t really come across as oaky, but there is a subtly woody undercurrent that tells this is not your typical Santorini Assyrtiko. The overall feel is quite ripe and rather concentrated, but true to the Hatzidakis style, the wine keeps its sense of balance really well in check. Drinking nicely right now, but most likely will improve over the next decade or so. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 35,90€. (91 pts.)

  • 2018 Venetsanos Winery Nykteri - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (4.4.2021)
    Assyrtiko (95%) with a little bit of Aidani and Athiri blended in. A short pre-fermentation cold soak is followed by fermentation in oak. Aged for 4 months in French oak barrels ranging from 225 to 500 liters. Alcohol 14%.

Medium-deep straw-yellow color. Ripe, juicy and sweet-toned nose with aromas of succulent yellow fruits, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of creaminess, light floral notes of apple blossom and honeysuckle and a hint of ripe pear. The wine is ripe, juicy and full-bodied on the palate with somewhat obtrusive streak of alcohol. Rich flavors of sweet golden apples, some tangy salinity, light notes of pear, a little bit of overripe waxy character and extracted bitterness, a savory hint of woody spice and a touch of creamy oak. The overall feel is quite round and somewhat balanced with the medium-plus acidity. The finish is round, waxy and somewhat heavy and ponderous with lush flavors of wizened golden apples, some extracted bitter tones, a little bit of juicy peach, light stony mineral tones, a hint of savory oak spice and a touch of salinity.

Meh. This wine feels too flabby and too extracted for a Santorini, lacking in freshness and drinkability. Feels very similar to Tselepos Nykteri 2018, which was similarly heavy and overripe. Although the oak use is obvious here, it fortunately isn’t overdone and with some aging it might actually integrate with the fruit. However, as a whole, the wine is missing balance as it feels too ripe, too extracted and too high in alcohol with too little acidity and no sense of precision. It really doesn’t strike me as a wine that could as gracefully in a cellar as Santorini wines normally do. Overpriced for the quality at 31€. (81 pts.)

  • 2017 Artemis Karamolegos Nykteri Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (4.4.2021)
    A blend of Assyrtiko (90%), Aidani and Athiri (the two filling out the remaining 10%). Aged in old 500 liter barrels for 16 months before bottling. 14% alcohol.

Pale whitish-yellow color. Ripe, fruit-forward and slightly sweetish nose with vibrant aromas of juicy lemony citrus fruits, some floral notes of honeysuckle, a little bit of creamy oak and savory wood spice, light tropical fruit notes of pineapple and peach and a hint of stony minerality. The wine is dry, medium-bodied and somewhat concentrated yet not particularly heavy on the palate with intense flavors of ripe citrus fruits, tangy salinity, some spicy red apple tones, a little bit of creaminess, light notes of stony minerality, a hint of juicy peach and a touch of savory wood spice. The racy acidity lends great sense of structure to the wine without making it too lean or aggressive. Overall the wine has the air of a textbook Santorini white. Crisp, long and mouth-cleansing finish of tart lemony citrus fruits and fresh red apples, some creamy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light spicy notes of savory wood, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of fresh, crunchy peach.

An excellent, enjoyably complex and wonderfully intense Nykteri. Even though the already excellent vintage 2014 showed very judicious use of oak, this is even better in that aspect, showing mainly just creamy oak-aging qualities without any obvious oak aromatics. The wine is still very youthful, but brimming with promise. An outstanding wine already now, but will improve for years more. The best wine in our lineup of six Nykteri wines. Solid value at 28€. (93 pts.)

  • 2015 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (4.4.2021)
    Macerated for 12-15 days with the skins, one third in open-top fermentors. Aged for 18 months in French and American oak 225-liter barriques (75%) and 500-liter demi-muids (25%); 25% new oak, 75% used. Bottled lightly filtered. 13% alcohol, 2,7 g/l residual sugar, 5,4 g/l acidity, 0,57 g/l VA and pH 3,42.

Somewhat dark yet quite translucent cherry red color with a pale, almost colorless rim; looks lighter in color than vintages 2013 and 2012 sitting in neighboring glasses. Savory, dark-toned and still quite youthful nose with rather sunny aromas of licorice root, black cherries, some gravelly earth tones, a little bit of sweet, toasty oak spice, a sweeter hint of raspberry marmalade and a touch of raw meat. The wine feels dry, savory and quite serious on the palate with a medium-plus body and quite chewy flavors of ripe wild strawberries and sour cherries, some ripe tomato, a little bit of savory wood spice, light sweeter notes of wizened dark fruits, a sanguine hint of bloody game and a touch of sweet, toasty oak. The structure seems to rely more on the rather tough and assertive tannins than on the medium-plus acidity that feels a bit on the low side for a Ramnista. The finish is dry, long and quite noticeably grippy with flavors of quite pronounced sour cherry bitterness, juicy wild strawberry, some savory wood spice, light gravelly notes of earth, a little bit of cooked tomato, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of tobacco leaf.

A tough, serious and structured Xinomavro that feels somewhat less sweet and less oaky than the last time I tasted this (2½ years ago). Overall the wine seems to be developing into the right direction: it feels enjoyably structured and true to the variety with a nice and healthy tannic grip and a balanced undercurrent of bitterness, very typical of Xinomavro. Although the acidity could be a tad higher here, I do enjoy how savory the wine is how modest the alcohol is for a contemporary Ramnista. Although I was a bit hesitant if this vintage would turn out great with age, my reservations were unfounded - this seems to be a wine that is going to be terrific in another decade or so. Great value at 21,50€. (90 pts.)

  • 2013 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (4.4.2021)
    Macerated for 12-15 days with the skins, one third in open-top fermentors. Aged for 18 months in French and American oak 225-liter barriques (75%) and 500-liter demi-muids (25%); 25% new oak, 75% used. Bottled lightly filtered. 14,6% alcohol, 3,3 g/l residual sugar, 5,5 g/l acidity, 0,65 g/l VA and pH 3,54.

Somewhat dark and rather translucent garnet color. Very sweet, rich and lush nose with sunny aromas of cherry marmalade and sun-dried tomato, some pruney notes, a little bit of overripe blackcurrant and strawberry jam, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of earth and a sweet touch of clove. The wine is ripe, sunny and silky on the palate with medium-to-moderately full body and somewhat sweetish flavors of black cherries and almost overripe blackcurrants, some meaty umami, light pruney tones, a little bit of balsamic VA, a hint of tomato and a touch of strawberry jam along with an understated hint of sour cherry bitterness. The overall feel is quite dense and balanced with the medium-to-moderately high acidity and textural, powdery tannins that slowly pile up the gums and make the wine feel rather grippy. The finish is noticeably ripe, rather hot and moderately grippy with lush flavors of marmaladey red fruit and wizened black cherry, some overripe blackcurrant, light notes of gravelly earth, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of tomato stalk and an evolved umami hint of meat stew.

An impressively concentrated and quite chewy but also surprisingly ripe - almost overripe - vintage of Ramnista. The lush, sweet and borderline jammy fruit department and at times almost obtrusive alcohol make the wine feel very solar and also rather atypical for Ramnista. Although there are some matured nuances here, the overall feel is still quite youthful and somewhat unresolved. However, I doubt any amount of aging will make the wine lose its super-ripe and slightly marmaladey qualities. I’m not particularly fond of this vintage, it seems to be lacking the je-ne-sais-quoi of Ramnista. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 22,98€. (87 pts.)

  • 2012 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (4.4.2021)
    Macerated for 12-15 days with the skins. Aged for 18 months in French and American oak 225-liter barriques (75%) and 500-liter demi-muids (25%); 25% new oak, 75% used. Bottled lightly filtered. 14% alcohol, 3,6 g/l residual sugar, 5,5 g/l acidity, 0,68 g/l VA and pH 3,47.

Deep, rather dark and moderately translucent black cherry color - darkest of the three Ramnistas (2015, 2013, 2012) we had. Savory and relatively youthful nose of dusty earth, tobacco and sun-baked rocks, some black cherries and black raspberries, a little bit of raw meat, light notes of savory wood spice, sweeter hints of wizened dark fruits and figs and a touch of balsamic lift. The wine feels ripe, silky and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and layered flavors of black cherries and slightly wizened dark berries, some raw gamey meat and umami, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of licorice. At first the wine feels velvety smooth, but the high acidity and ample, assertive tannins kick in on the backbeat, turning the wine suddenly very structure-driven and sinewy. The complex finish is slightly evolved and subtly sweet-toned with layered flavors of brambly black raspberries and wizened dark fruits, some gravelly minerality, a little bit of balsamic richness, light raisiny tones, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of toasty oak spice. The wine ends on a rather grippy note, thanks to the ample tannins.

An excellent, classic vintage of Ramnista. The overall feel is very structured and despite the quite obvious ripeness, the wine doesn’t come across as a sweet crowdpleaser, but instead a very firm and savory wine that is starting to show the very first signs of maturity. Based on my previous experiences with this vintage, this is going in the right direction and will continue to improve for many more years. Terrific value at 19,89€. (92 pts.)

  • 2011 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista Limni - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (4.4.2021)
    100% Xinomavro from the Kir-Yianni estate vineyard block #05, planted in 1972 (i.e. 39 yo vines). A separate single-parcel bottling from the lots that are normally used in making Ramnista. 14,6% alcohol, 2,9 g/l residual sugar, 6,7 g/l acidity and pH 3,2. Total production 350 bottles.

Luminous and rather translucent raspberry red color with a subtly evolved rusty hue. Sweetish and moderately evolved nose with slightly tertiary aromas of raisins, gamey meat and hoi sin, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of sunny red-toned fruit, light sappy notes of herbal lift, a hint of tobacco and a dusty touch of sun-baked earth. The wine feels ripe, sunny and quite concentrated on the palate with a medium body and surprisingly high acidity. Intense flavors of sour cherries, ripe cranberries, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of meaty umami, light evolved notes of tobacco and sweet raisiny fruit, mineral hints of sun-baked rocks and gravelly minerality and a woody touch of cigar box. The wine is lively and impressively structured on the palate with its high acidity and quite ample, sandy tannins that pile up on the gums. The finish is sunny yet savory with pronounced tannic grip and long, complex flavors of crunchy cranberries and sour cherries, some wizened black cherries, a little bit of meaty umami, light tertiary notes of raisiny dark fruits and hoi sin, a hint of toasty oak spice and a touch of stony minerality.

A ripe and sunny Ramnista that is remarkably lively, concentrated and structure-driven on the palate. A great combination of muscular structure and juicy, slightly sweet-toned fruit. The wine is starting to exhibit some tertiary characteristics, and even though the wine doesn’t feel fully mature yet, it feels like it is slowly getting closer to its peak. Nevertheless, I can imagine this wine will continue to keep for a long time. Compared to the regular Ramnista 2011, this wine feels more concentrated and structure-driven, but also slightly more evolved in style - I can imagine this block #05 brought body, intensity and fruit to the final blend. Not the most affordable Xinomavro out there at 40€, but delivers for the price. (93 pts.)

  • 2011 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista Siniaki - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (4.4.2021)
    100% Xinomavro from the Kir-Yianni estate vineyard block #09, planted in 2005 (i.e. 6 yo vines). A separate single-parcel bottling from the lots that are normally used in making Ramnista. 13,7% alcohol, 2,7 g/l residual sugar, 7,0 g/l acidity and pH 3,37. Total production 350 bottles.

Luminous, slightly evolved and quite translucent dark raspberry red color. Brooding, slightly sweet-toned and subtly lifted nose with more fruity than earthy or meaty notes, which feel more typical of Ramnista. Aromas of wizened black cherries, some ripe blackcurrant tones, light lifted nuances of balsamic VA, a little bit of raw meat, a hint of toasty oak spice and a rich touch of raspberry marmalade. The wine is bright, silky and surprisingly youthful on the palate with a medium body and a mouthfeel that feels less chewy and more delicate than Ramnista in general. Precise, vibrant flavors of sour cherries, savory wood spice, some tart lingonberries and cranberries, a little bit of wild strawberry, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of tobacco and a touch of licorice. At first the wine feels just very acid-driven with its high, crunchy acidity and the tannins seem to come across quite gentle and ripe. However, quite quickly the fine-grained yet very ample tannins pile up on the gums, turning the wine surprisingly tannic, given the softer first impression. The finish is dry, lively and subtly evolved with intense, crunchy flavors of cranberries, sour cherries and some ripe blackcurrants, a little bit of savory wood spice, light umami notes of raw meat, evolved hints of balsamic VA and wizened dark fruits and a touch of tobacco leaf.

A wonderfully fresh, lively and acid-driven take on Ramnista; of the three 2011 single-parcel Ramnistas we tasted (Limni, Siniaki, Cyclamina), this was the most delicate in style, relying more on finesse and precision rather than power and earthier tones, reminding me more of Dolcetto or Pinot Noir (instead of the typical Nebbiolo analogy) - I can imagine this block #09 brought freshness, lift and elegance to the final blend of Ramnista. At first the wine seemed to come across as relatively light in tannins for a Xinomavro, but the tannins appeared with a small delay, making it feel as tannic as any Ramnista. Although starting to show some evolved qualities, this was still very youthful in style and still showing tons of potential for future development. Really a wine up my alley: this was not only the best Ramnista of the three single-parcel 2011 Ramnistas, but perhaps the best iteration of Ramnista I’ve tasted. Delightful stuff, good value at 40€. (94 pts.)

  • 2011 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Ramnista Cyclamina - Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa (4.4.2021)
    100% Xinomavro from the Kir-Yianni estate vineyard block #15, planted in 1970 (i.e. 41 yo vines). A separate single-parcel bottling from the lots that are normally used in making Ramnista. 13,5% alcohol, 3,0 g/l residual sugar, 6,0 g/l acidity and pH 3,36. Total production 350 bottles.

Luminous, somewhat evolved and moderately translucent dark raspberry red color. Brooding, dark-toned and surprisingly closed nose with rather understated aromas of wizened dark fruits, pipe tobacco, some sweeter notes of cherry marmalade and raisins, a little bit of sun-baked rocks, light ripe cranberry notes, a hint of tar or smoky earth and a touch of pleasant balsamic lift. The wine feels ripe, full-bodied and rather extracted on the palate with a relatively tough and austere overall feel. Quite restrained flavors of sour cherries, dried dates, some earth, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light smoky notes of tobacco and tar and a lifted hint of balsamic VA. The wine comes across as very grippy and structured with its ample, assertive tannins and moderately high acidity. The finish is juicy, ripe and sweet-toned with rather noticeable tannic grip and quite long yet rather understated flavors of dried dates and sweet black cherries, some raisins, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of leather and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.

An impressively structured and tough Xinomavro - a real antithesis to approachable crowdpleaser wines. Feels quite closed, very tannic and - thus - pretty forbidding in style. At first the wine offers barely anything in the glass, but slowly starts to unwind and open up. It really needs air, so decanting is heartily recommended. I can imagine this block #15 brought tannins, concentration and sense of structure to the final blend of Ramnista. Seeing how the wine is starting to show some evolved dried-fruit notes, I wager the wine is getting close to its apogee. Probably starting to peak in 4-8 years, but going to keep for much longer. An enjoyably tough and unfriendly effort for a Ramnista, there’s nothing fun there - and therein lies its charm. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 40€. (92 pts.)

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