One of my acquaintances visited Bernard Faurie - the legendary Hermitage stalwart - a year ago. As some of you probably know, Faurie called it quits a few years ago, sold off his vineyards to his son-in-law and retired. Despite being retired, Faurie couldn’t stay completely out of viticulture and winemaking, so he decided to keep a vineyard in lieu-dit Le Méal, from which he still makes a little bit of Hermitage. However, I’ve understood that 2020 was Faurie’s last commercial vintage, so these post-2020 vintages are to considered as something like Faurie’s “hobby wines” - bottles that most of which are not going to end up in any shops. But if you find any Emmanuel Darnaud’s (Faurie’s son-in-law) Hermitages, do remember that they are made with fruit from the old (up to 100 yo!) vineyards previously owned by Faurie.
And to those, who don’t know: Faurie is considered to be one of the best producers in Hermitage. Before his retirement, he owned 1,7 hectares (4,2 acres) in three lieux-dits considered to be among the best in Hermitage: Bessards, Greffieux and Le Méal. The vines in Bessards were planted by his predecessors who started farming grapes there, over a century ago! All the vineyards are planted to Petite Serine (ie. the “original” Syrah clone that used to be much more widely planted in Northern Rhône, before it was replaced by the Syrah clone from Southern Rhône considered to be inferior in quality but also less finicky and easier to cultivate with higher yields). Faurie harvests everything by hand; the bunches are not destemmed; the grapes are crushed by foot; everything is fermented spontaneously and aged in (predominantly old) 600-liter demi-muids.
Although one might think Faurie produces only two wines - one red Hermitage and one (extremely rare) white Hermitage - the reality is much more complex! Faurie uses only one label in his bottles, so the wines just say “Hermitage” and at a quick glance all the reds might look identical to each other. However, Faurie actually produces five different cuvées from his vineyards - and the only way to differentiate them from one another is the color of their capsules!
The two main cuvées that are produced more or less annually:
- Bessards / Le Méal (golden capsule)
- Bessards / Greffieux (white capsule)
Additionally, Faurie also makes a cuvée of all three vineyards and he also bottles two of his three lieux-dits in vintages when he thinks these wines can perform without the support of any other vineyard:
- Bessards / Greffieux / Le Méal (golden capsule with a unique lot number)
- Bessards (red capsule)
- Le Méal (golden capsule with “M”)
I’ve understood that Faurie thinks Greffieux doesn’t really work on its own, always needing the support of Bessards, so the only vineyard combinations you won’t find are:
- Greffieux
- Greffieux / Le Méal
Anyways, without further ado, here are my tasting notes. It was very enlightening to taste so many different Faurie wines at one go - this way the differences between the vineyards, the different cuvées and vintages became more obvious!
Naturally we had quite a bunch of extra bottles before and after the Fauries (including @Mikko_R’s Côte-Rôtie and @Steve_Havas’s stunning Chave). Finally, do note that all these Fauries were sourced directly from the estate, so if you go now browsing wine-searcher, most likely you won’t find the wines at those prices mentioned in the tasting notes.
- 2021 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The first "retirement vintage" - made with Petite Serine grapes from the vineyards Faurie kept to himself after his retirement in 2020. The bottle has a golden foil with an "M", making this a rare bottling of fruit sourced exclusively from the +60 yo vines in Le Méal lieu-dit. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 13% alcohol.
Deep, only slightly translucent blackish-red color with a pale rim. The nose feels youthful, clean and attractive with slightly restrained aromas of black pepper and smoky reduction, some dark forest fruits, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light sweet notes of ripe black raspberries and a faint vegetal hint of chopped green chili. The wine feels dense, dry and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and bright yet quite lean, acid-driven flavors of tart lingonberries and brambly black raspberries, some peppery spice, a little bit of stony and gravelly minerality, light crowberry tones, a herbaceous hint of chopped green chili and a touch of fresh blueberry. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity as the supple medium-minus tannins stay out of the way, contributing only a little to the silky texture of the wine. The finish is lively, clean and crunchy with a youthful aftertaste of fresh blueberries and brambly blackberries, some crunchy crowberry notes, a little bit of crushed black peppercorns, a little bit of fresh raspberry, a savory hint of meaty umami and a faint green-toned touch of chopped chili.
A very fresh, youthful and crunchy Hermitage that feels very Burgundian. Compared to the typical ripe, burly and extracted style normally associated with contemporary Hermitage wines, this Faurie wine is stylistically almost a polar opposite with its pure, acid-driven overall feel, quite red-toned fruit flavors and relatively light and supple body. The flavors are pure Syrah, but instead of showing elevated ripeness, they teeter on the edge of ripeness, flirting with almost herbaceous undertones, counterpointing them with bright and precise fruit flavors. The wine is still so young that even after some aeration, the reduction still tends to mute the aromatics and flavors just a little bit. While this might not be the most dramatic Faurie Hermitage, this is a lovely and wonderfully delicate expression of Hermitage that showcases the freshness and elegance that defines the fruit from Le Méal. As the wine is still a mere baby, I can see this evolving and improving for another decade or so - most likely the wine will keep just fine for some time after that. Priced according to its quality at 79€.
(91 points) - 2020 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The last commercial vintage before Faurie's retirement in 2020. The bottle has a red foil, making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced exclusively from the centenarian vines in Bessards, the lieu-dit Faurie considers to produce his most impressive and ageworthy wines. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 14% alcohol.
Dense, fully opaque blackish-red with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels rich, open and quite sweet-toned with pure, youthful aromas of bilberries, blackberries and violets, some elderberry juice, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light boysenberry tones, a spicy hint of crushed peppercorns, a faint hint of smoky reduction and a touch of licorice root. The wine feels ripe, juicy and slightly chewy yet not heavy on the palate with a moderately full body and vibrant flavors of juicy blackberries and blueberries, some elderberry tones, a little bit of fresh black cherry, light inky tones, a floral hint of violets and a touch of licorice. Despite the ripeness, the wine is impressively fresh, firm and precise with its high acidity and ample, moderately grippy tannins. The finish is long, clean and somewhat grippy with a vibrant, pure aftertaste of bilberries and ripe blackberries, some elderberry tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light floral hints of violets, a hint of blueberry juice and a touch of ripe raspberry.
A firm, fresh and vibrant Hermitage that is still super youthful but not particularly primary anymore. The wine is sort of very fruit-driven, in the sense that its flavor profile is almost exclusively on fruit with few non-fruit characteristics. Still, describing the wine as "fruit-forward" might give a sort of wrong impression, because this is still a very classically styled, harmonious and rather structure-driven effort - the wine is just so young that the youthful fruit flavors are very much to the fore and the savory non-fruit flavors are yet to emerge. As a whole, the wine is both very impressive and very promising - it is a joy to drink now, but it promises volumes of aging potential as well. It can be drunk right now if one wants to, but I believe this wine has potential to become phenomenal at 15 years of age or older. At 64€ this hasn't been a particularly affordable Syrah, but the wine easily delivers for the price and more (unfortunately the wine fetches double the price on secondary markets today, so there's that).
(93 points) - 2020 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The last commercial vintage before Faurie's retirement in 2020. The bottle has a gold foil, making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from the 60-100 yo vines in Bessards and Le Méal lieux-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 14% alcohol.
Dense, dark and fully opaque black-red with a faint purplish hue. The nose feels brooding, dark-toned and a bit reticent with clean, seductive aromas of ripe blackberries, some inky tones, a little bit of dusty sun-baked earth, light floral notes of elderflowers, a hint of fresh bilberry and a touch of peppery spice. The wine feels ripe, silky and harmonious on the palate with a rather full body and youthful, dry flavors of dark plums and juicy blackberries, some inky tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light floral notes of violets and elderflowers, crunchy hints of redcurrants and chokeberries and a savory touch of meaty umami. The structure relies more on the high acidity than on the supple, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is dry, silky and gently grippy with a long, juicy aftertaste of ripe blackberries, some tart lingonberries, light inky tones, a little bit of slightly bitter chokeberry, dark-toned hints of fresh plums and blueberries and a touch of earth.
A silky, harmonious and still super youthful Hermitage. Compared to the expressive and still quite structure-driven 2020 Bessards, this blend of Bessards and Le Méal feels somewhat more restrained in comparison with a softer, silkier feel - you can immediately notice how Le Méal really softens up the burlier, more "Hermitage-like" Bessards fruit, taking it into a lighter, more approachable and somewhat more Burgundian direction. Although the wine doesn't really call for aging to soften up its structure, the wine still feels like it could use some additional aging to open up as it feels a little bit closed-down at the moment. However, if you don't take that into account, I feel like this is a more elegant and approachable wine compared to the tougher, more structured 2020 Bessards. A lovely, harmonious and thoroughly delicious example of Hermitage, but at least at the moment, pure Bessards bottling is the better wine out of these two. Priced more or less according to its quality at 69€.
(92 points) - 2019 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The bottle has a white foil, making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from the very old vines in Bessards and Greffieux lieu-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 14,5% alcohol.
Deep, dark and almost fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels vibrant and expressive with almost perfumed aromas of fragrant violets and other flowers along with aromas of ripe bilberries, some blackberries, light elderberry tones, a little bit of inky character, a hint of dark plummy fruit, a ferrous touch of blood and a whiff of smoky bacon. The wine feels dry, dense and quite tough on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of ripe black raspberries and brambly blackberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of juicy black cherry, light gamey tones, a candied hint of sweet primary fruit and a sanguine touch of iron. The wine is impressively structured with its high acidity and assertive, grippy and quite angular tannins. The finish is juicy and crunchy but also quite grippy with its rather drying tannins and a long aftertaste of bilberries and elderberries, some brambly black raspberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of fresh blackberry and a savory touch of meaty umami.
The wonderfully fragrant, floral and almost perfumed nose created expectations of a lush, fragrant and silky wine, but on the palate this turned out to be a completely different kind of beast! Unlike the younger Fauries (2020-2021) we tasted next to this bottle, this was remarkably stern and structure-driven in style - but packing more than enough fruit to serve as a sturdy counterpoint to that structure! Although the wine does show some ripeness, it feels - true to the Faurie style - remarkably fresh with a flavor profile that veers more towards to dark, crunchy berries that to sweet, dark fruits. Unlike many other Fauries that have been pretty much ready right out of the gate, this wine feels like it is still a mere baby and still quite far off from its optimal drinking window! Not only are the tannins still remarkably tough, unresolved and grippy, but also the fruit profile still retains a tiny bit of that candied primary fruit that just makes the wine scream for additional aging. Although not really a big, bold and extracted wine in any way, this is still a remarkable powerhouse of a Syrah that needs another 8-12 years of aging before starting to show its best. An impressive effort with lots of upside - expect the score to go up as the wine ages. This has been a screaming bargain at 55€ from the winery.
(92 points) - 2018 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The bottle has a white foil, making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from the very old vines in Bessards and Greffieux lieux-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats and fermented spontaneously. Typically this bottling is aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids, but from my understanding, this bottle was a special release that had been bottled only recently, after almost 5 years of aging in oak. 14% alcohol.
Quite deep, dark and somewhat translucent black cherry color. The nose feels sweet, expressive and quite perfumed with aromas of ripe bilberries and floral notes of violets, some juicy blackberry tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light brambly notes of fresh boysenberries and black raspberries, a reductive hint of fireworks smoke, a touch of peppery spice and a whiff of ink. The wine feels ripe, juicy and open on the palate with a moderately full body and slightly sweetly-fruited flavors of juicy bilberries and blueberries, some ripe boysenberry tones, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light inky tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of peppery spice. The overall feel is pretty silky and supple with the moderately high acidity and ripe medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is juicy, ripe and quite gently grippy with a long, fruit-driven aftertaste of blueberries and dark plummy fruit, some boysenberry tones, a little bit of savory spice and crushed peppercorns, light inky tones, a hint of sweet blackberry fruit and a floral touch of violets and elderflowers.
A wonderfully open, expressive and perfumed Hermitage that really shows the ripeness of the solar 2018 vintage in its relatively soft and supple structure - this particular bottling was the roundest and softest wine in our Faurie vertical. Although the wine will most likely continue to age and evolve just fine for many years more, this wine didn't feel like it called for any additional aging - it was wonderfully expressive, accessible and thoroughly enjoyable right now. Although I prefer a bit drier and more acid-driven style that the other Faurie wines showed, this was still a lovely wine in its own right. Maybe not just as memorable. Even if Greffieux typically makes sturdier and more punchy wines than Le Méal, which normally makes quite light and delicate wines, curiously the 2018 Bessards-Le Méal seemed a bit drier and more structure-driven than this Greffieux-Bessards. All in all, this was a fine Hermitage, but not among the best wines we tasted. Maybe a tad expensive for the style at 59€ from the winery.
(91 points) - 2018 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The bottle has a golden foil, making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from the 60-100 yo vines in Bessards and Le Méal lieux-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 14% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent dark blood-red color. The nose feels ripe and maybe a bit reductive with aromas of juicy dark berries, some fresh bilberry tones, a little bit of reductive funk, light smoky notes of struck match, a hint of inky character, a touch of gravelly minerality and a faint whiff of peppery spice. The wine feels ripe and silky yet pretty firm on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and subtly sweet-toned flavors of fresh bilberries and juicy boysenberries, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of fresh dark plum, light inky tones, hints of crushed peppercorns and savory spices and a touch of youthful red-toned fruit. Both the rather high acidity and the ample, moderately grippy tannins contribute to the good sense of structure. The finish is rich, long and moderately grippy with a juicy aftertaste of fresh bilberries and brambly blackberries, some sweeter boysenberry tones, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light inky tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of savory spice.
A firm, balanced and nuanced Hermitage that feels pretty ripe and juicy yet still firm and more savory than sweet-toned in nature than the slightly softer and more sweetly-fruited 2018 Bessards-Greffieux that we tasted at the same time. Stylistically the wines were quite similar and in a similar phase right now, but I feel Bessards-Greffieux is more accessible now, whereas this Bessards-Le Méal felt more like a cuvée that can be laid down. With this much fruit and good sense of structure, I have no doubts this wine will continue to evolve and improve for many more years. Despite the rather solar vintage, this turned out to be a fine, classically styled Faurie Hermitage with lovely sense of typicity. Priced according to its quality at 59€ from the winery.
(92 points) - 2017 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The bottle has a golden foil AND a tiny handwritten part in the label saying "GBM", making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from very old vines in Greffieux, Bessards and Le Méal lieux-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 13,5% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and fully opaque black-red color. The nose feels dark-toned, quite youthful and very attractive with aromas of dark forest fruits, some fresh bilberries and brambly blackberries, light olive tones, a little bit of damp forest floor, a spicy hint of crushed peppercorns, a ferrous touch of blood and a whiff of licorice root. The wine is ripe, dense and pretty chewy on the palate with a moderately full body and dry, dark-toned flavors of blueberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of fresh blackberry and raspberry, light peppery tones, a hint of olive and a touch of licorice root. The overall feel is pretty stern and structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity and ample, rather grippy tannins. The finish is dry, crunchy and quite grippy with a long, bold aftertaste of ripe dark forest fruits, some olive tones, a little bit of brambly blackberry, light licorice root tones, tart hints of cranberry and crowberry and a sanguine touch of salt and iron.
A very stern, young and serious Hermitage that seems to pack a bit more punch and power than your typical Faurie Hermitage. Normally Faurie's style is relatively elegant and supple - often even quite Burgundian - for the appellation, but this is a very classically styled Hermitage in the sense that it is still a brooding, pitch-black and very tightly-knit wine at the age of 6½ years, coming across more like a wine only a year or two away from the harvest. At the moment the wine still feels quite unresolved and even rather forbidding, but there's no denying that this is a thoroughly impressive and very promising effort. I'm sure this wine has the stuffing to make beautiful old bones, but it will take time. Keep, don't drink. At 65€ from the winery, this has been a screaming bargain.
(94 points) - 2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The bottle has a golden foil, making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from 60-100 yo vines in Bessards and Le Méal lieux-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 13,5% alcohol.
Deep, rather opaque and somewhat evolved blackish-red color with a slightly aged dried-blood hue. The nose feels savory, nuanced and not youthful nor particularly old with aromas of brambly blackberries, some tapenade tones, a little bit of evolved gamey character, light leathery notes, a hint of forest floor, a touch of ripe blueberry and a faint, fragrant whiff of dried flowers. The wine feels juicy, somewhat chewy and still pretty tightly-knit on the palate with a full body and complex flavors of ripe blackberries and dark plums, some leathery tones, a little bit of earth and savory spices, light olive notes of tapenade, crunchy hints of fresh bilberries and brambly black raspberries and a touch of forest floor. The wine has developed a beautiful, velvety texture with age, but the overall feel is still pretty stern and muscular with the assertive, grippy tannins and high acidity. The finish is dark-toned, savory and pretty tannic with a long, complex aftertaste of earth and ripe blueberries, some cranberry juice tones, a little bit of old leather, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of forest floor and a touch of tobacco.
A very impressive, complex and classically built Hermitage that shows the power, structure and intensity of which the appellation is known for - yet at the same time shows wonderful sense of elegance, purity and silky texture that would feel more in place in a Burgundy wine. The wine packs a relatively big body for a Faury Hermitage and an impressive and still quite unresolved structure, but still it doesn't come across as a big, extracted or clumsy wine. I'm sure the tannins will slowly resolve and soften as the wine ages, but as the tannins don't feel tough or aggressive, the wine is perfectly drinkable right now, as long as one is fine with a wine that has ample, grippy tannins. Aromatically the wine doesn't feel young anymore, but the overall feel isn't particularly tertiary, either. I'm sure the wine will continue to evolve and improve for at least another decade and keep for even longer. This is really a stunner and to me, the best Faurie wine we tasted in our Faurie 2021-2011 vertical. At 70€ from the winery, this has been a steal.
(95 points) - 2011 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards-Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
The bottle has a golden foil AND a tiny handwritten part in the label saying "GBM", making this wine 100% Petite Serine sourced from the very old vines in Greffieux, Bessards and Le Méal lieux-dits. Vinified only in whole bunches that are foot-crushed in old oak vats, fermented spontaneously and aged for 12-18 months in old 600-liter demi-muids. 13% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and moderately opaque pomegranate color with a slightly evolved caramel hue. The nose feels quite ripe, somewhat sweetly-fruited and a bit restrained with dark-toned and still relatively youthful aromas of fresh blueberries and juicy blackberries, some floral notes of violets, a little bit of olive, light ferrous notes of blood, a vague green-toned hint of something vegetal and a touch of gamey meat. The wine feels silky, slightly evolved and noticeably savory on the palate with a moderately full body and quite intense flavors of juicy blackberries and other dark berries and pronounced meaty umami, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tart dark plum, light vegetal notes of autumnal leaves, evolved hints of leather and tobacco and a touch of tart cranberry. The wine is high in acidity with ample yet ripe and somewhat resolved medium-plus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is long, harmonious and moderately grippy with a rather intense aftertaste of ripe dark berries, some tobacco, a little bit of old leather, light brambly notes of blackberries, a floral hint of violets and a vegetal touch of leafy greenness.
An impressive, harmonious and pleasantly evolved Hermitage that is in a great spot right now; although the wine feels relatively youthful for its age at 12½ years, it doesn't really feel that young nor particularly mature. The only somewhat odd element here was the faint vegetal overtone, which seems to accompany many 2011 Syrah wines from Northern Rhône. It doesn't really make the wine bad in any way, but I admit it does distract a little bit from the pleasure - I guess I would've rated the wine one or two points higher had it been without it. Otherwise the wine is pretty similar to the 2017 Greffieux Bessards Méal, only with 6 years of additional age under its belt - maybe a tiny bit lighter in body with slightly less ripeness, but superficially cut from the same cloth. I can imagine the wine will continue to evolve and improve for another 7-10 years more and keep for much longer, but it is fully accessible already now. Priced more or less according to its quality at 70€ from the winery.
(93 points)
The extras:
- NV Ancre Hill Estates Blanc de Noirs - United Kingdom, Wales (10.2.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir from Monmouth, Wales. Fermented and aged in egg-shaped concrete tanks and stainless steel tanks for 12 months. Bottled, refermented and aged sur lattes for three years. The lot number is L01/21, so it might be that the wine is disgorged in January 2021? 11% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Hazy, slightly evolved golden yellow color. The nose is very open, expressive and highly distinctive with rather funky aromas of waxy richness and quite flatulent reduction at first, then opening up to reveal aromas of ripe yellow fruits, some stew with dill and curry spice, a little bit of honeyed richness, light herby tones, a floral hint of lavender and a touch of cardamom. The nose is very perplexing, to say the least. The wine feels dry, crisp and somewhat wild on the palate with a gentle, creamy mousse, medium body and idiosyncratic flavors of waxy funk and apple jam, some floral notes of chamomile and lavender, a little bit of nectarine, light mineral notes of wet rocks and tangy salinity, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of beeswax. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness to the wine. The finish is crisp, somewhat wild and quite acid-driven with a moderately long aftertaste of tart Granny Smith apple, some herby tones, a little bit of fresh nectarine, light honeyed nuances, a reductive hint of funk and gunpowder smoke and a touch of leather saddle.
This was my first Welsh wine I've ever tasted - and what a wine! It might not be at home among some dead-serious Champagnes, but this is still a wine that can be taken seriously despite its very off-kilter expression. The wine is unashamedly funky, which makes it feel a bit weird for a wine that would otherwise be a serious Blanc de Noirs made in a very Champagne-like fasion - but it doesn't feel natty or too weird in any other way. It's just full of aromas and flavors you normally don't associate with a serious sparkling wine, but this is still a very serious sparkling wine! Due to its very atypical and highly unusual expression, this wine might not become anyone's house fizz, but it is tasty enough to be returned to every now and then. A fascinating and very memorable effort, recommended. Priced according to its quality at approx. 50€.
(91 points) - 2000 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Clos de Beauvenir - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (10.2.2024)
The flagship white of Château La Nerthe. While nowadays the wine is a blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc and aged in demi-muids, it seems that this wine used to be a blend of Roussanne and Marsanne and/or Clairette and aged at least partly in smaller 228-liter oak pièces with a good proportion of new oak. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Quite deep and rather evolved golden yellow color with a pale coppery core. The nose feels evolved, somewhat oxidative and quite tertiary with aromas of hazelnuts, some Sultana raisins, a little bit of ripe orange, light smoky tones and a hint of dried peach. The wine feels evolved, rather tertiary and slightly oily on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and slightly oxidative flavors of dried peaches and hazelnuts, some zesty citrus fruits and crunchy yellow apple, a little bit of floral spice, light stony mineral notes, a hint of woolly lanolin and a touch of sorrel. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is evolved, nutty and somewhat oxidative with a long, tertiary aftertaste of ripe yellow apples, some tangy sorrel notes, a little bit of roasted hazelnuts, light floral nuances, a hint of damp wool and a touch of dried stone fruits.
A relatively fresh and sophisticated CdP white that just seems to be past its peak. There's still quite a bit of fruit left in the wine, but there's no denying that the overall feel is starting to feel rather tired and oxidative by now. This is still drinkable, but not in its best shape anymore; as the wine is not going to benefit from any additional aging, it is high time to drink up any remaining bottles.
(88 points) - 2014 Germano Ettore Langhe Riesling Hérzu - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (10.2.2024)
"Hérzu" means "steep". 100% Riesling from a 2,9 ha plot in Alta Langa located at the altitude of 500 to 580 meters above the sea level. Very slow fermentation of 40 days, after which the wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 6 months. No malo. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, intense neon yellow-green color. The fragrant nose is immediately identifiable as a Riesling with its aromas of zesty citrus fruits, some sweet floral notes of apple blossom and orange blossom, light appley notes, a little bit of developed beeswaxy character, hints of some herby stuff and a touch of diesel. The wine feels crisp, firm and lively on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of tart Granny Smith apple and lemony citrus fruit, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of pithy grapefruit bitterness, light floral nuances, a petrolly hint of diesel and a touch of beeswax. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is crisp and lively with a pretty long aftertaste of tart Granny Smith apple and lemony citrus fruits, some spicy floral notes, a little bit of pithy grapefruit bitterness, light stony mineral notes, a crunchy hint of white currants and a touch of diesel.
A very impressive and believable effort for an Italian Riesling; I thought it was a German GG Riesling from a cool vintage - perhaps with less age, too. Seeing how the wine was bottled under a screwcap, it's no wonder the wine is still very youthful, showing relatively little aged signs. Fortunately the wine doesn't come across as primary anymore, so definitely something has happened. Usually I'm not a big fan of Italian Rieslings, because I've always thought that why bother paying high prices for a curiosity such as an Italian Riesling when you can get proper stuff from Germany at lower prices? Even this particular wine hasn't manged to impress me before. However, this time I thought this wine was on par with a GG Riesling, or other similarly serious German dry Riesling - and at approx. 20€ this wine really delivers for the price. I guess the wine just needs enough time to really come around?
(92 points) - 2004 Pincészet Lenkey Furmint Marcangoló - Hungary, Tokaji (10.2.2024)
100% Furmint from Holdvölgy, Úrágya and Hegyfarok vineyards in Tokaj, harvested on the first week of November in 2004. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 12 months in old oak barrels, after which the wine is bottled. Released in March 2019, after more than 13 years of aging. 12% alcohol, 4,2 g/l residual sugar and 8,13 g/l acidity. Bottle no. 176 of total 1596 bottles. Tasted blind.
Deep and rather concentrated yellow-green color. The nose feels sweet, complex and quite concentrated with intense aromas of peachy stone fruit, some evolved creamy tones, a little bit of beeswax, light nutty notes of toasted walnuts, a distinctive hint of slightly odd, perfumed floral character and a touch of bruised apple. The wine feels crisp, evolved and pretty high-strung on the palate with a light-to-medium body and brisk flavors of lemony citrus fruits and honeyed richness, some herby tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light developed notes of browned butter and nuttiness, crunchy hints of fresh nectarine and Granny Smith apple and a touch of beeswax. The racy acidity lends tremendous sense of structure and energy to the wine, eliminating what little sweetness the tiny bit of residual sugar might've added to the taste. The finish is complex, evolved and quite incisive with a long, attractive aftertaste of beeswax and honeyed richness, some developed creamy tones, a little bit of sharp and crunchy Granny Smith apple, light lemony notes of tart citrus fruits, a hint of browned butter and a touch of saline minerality.
A complex and fascinating Furmint that feels quite ripe and concentrated yet surprisingly light and airy both at the same time. With its impressive sense of structure, precision and near endless depth of flavor, this is a very idiosyncratic take on this mineral, acid-driven variety. It's crazy to think the producer chose to release the wine only after 15 years from the vintage, but I'm not complaining - this is world-class stuff. At 12,500 HUF (approx. 30,50€) this is a crazy bargain.
(94 points) - 2017 Domaine des Tours Vaucluse Clairette - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vaucluse (10.2.2024)
100% organically farmed Clairette from the Château de Tours vineyard. Fermented spontaneously in old oak casks. Full MLF. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Very youthful, pale and slightly hazy neon-green color. The nose feels very expressive, rich and heady with perfumed aromas of orange blossom, lilac and roses, some acacia honey tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light apricot notes, a hint of leesy creaminess, a touch of apple jam and a whiff of mango. The wine feels broad, round and oily on the palate with a full body and rich flavors of nectarine and apple compote, some leesy notes of creaminess, a little bit of perfumed floral character and rosewater, a little bit of quince jam, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of fresh cantaloupe. The high alcohol shows a little bit through, not only as a sense of warmth on the palate, but also as a faint boozy taste. The medium acidity doesn't feel high enough to lend freshness or sense of balance to the wine, only accentuating the sense of gras in the wine's texture. The finish is rich, broad and juicy with a long, moderately warm aftertaste of herby spices and floral notes, some creamy tones, a little bit of rosewater, light apricot nuances, a sweet hint of apple compote and a touch of quince jam.
A very rich, heady and unctuous Clairette that feels much younger than its 6½ years of age would suggest. However, the wine is quite a bit on the heavy side - it is very ripe, pretty modest in acidity and still quite dominated by the sweet, almost candied primary fruit flavors. While the wine is surprisingly rich and expressive for the entry-level white of the winery, it is also very typical for both a Clairette and a hot-vintage Southern Rhône white - the wine suffers quite badly from the relatively low level of acidity and high alcohol, which both contribute to the sense of sweetness in the flavors. I can imagine the wine the will benefit from some additional cellaring in the hopes that those sweet primary flavors will disappear with age, I guess no amount of aging can help with the sense of gras and flabby structure or the somewhat pronounced alcoholic notes. Although this wine is quite impressive an effort for an entry-level white, it is still a far cry from the outstanding and more balanced Château des Tourse white. I really don't understand the market prices for this wine (70-80€) - this drinks like a warm-vintage Côtes-du-Rhône white and I'd be greatly disappointed if I had paid close to a 100€ for a wine like this. However, at just 13€ from the winery, this is a steal and drinks like a wine more than twice as expensive.
(88 points) - 2016 Domaine des Tours Vaucluse - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vaucluse (10.2.2024)
The winery website says the wine is a blend of organically farmed Grenache, Counoise, Syrah, Cinsault, Merlot and other local varieties, but according to the bottle, this is a blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah (20%) from the Château de Tours vineyard. The grape varieties are vinified separately; they are fermented spontaneously and macerated with the skins for two weeks in old oak casks. Aged for 12 months in predominantly old oak casks. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Dark, somewhat translucent and slightly evolved cherry-red color with a faint russet hue. The nose feels attractively fragrant with aromas of strawberry liqueur, some wizened cherry tones, a little bit of ripe blackberry and black raspberry, light floral notes of violets, developed hints of meaty character and balsamic VA, a touch of blueberry and a spicy whiff of crushed black peppercorns. The wine feels rich, juicy and slightly evolved on the palate with a full body and quite lush yet still dark-toned flavors of strawberries and raspberry jam, some kirsch, a little bit of peppery spice, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of balsamic VA. Despite the ripeness and sweet-toned fruit profile, the wine comes across as pretty firm with its moderately high acidity and ripe yet ample medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, warm and gently grippy with a rich, dark-toned aftertaste of ripe black cherries and peppery spice, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of strawberry and bilberry, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of kirsch and a touch of elderberry marmalade.
Stylistically the wine was immediately identifiable as a Southern Rhône red - the rich, strawberry-driven Grenache fruit, elevated ripeness and somewhat sweet-toned flavor profile were all tell-tale signs. However, the wine is both surprisingly serious and elegant for a Southern Rhône red with its combination of vibrant fruit flavors, slightly evolved savory complexity and relatively high (for a Southern Rhône) acidity. This might not be the most thrilling Rayas / Tours wine out there, but nevertheless an excellent entry-level red by any standards. The prices at which these go at secondary market (70-90€) don't make any sense to me, but conversely at just 13€ from the winery, this is a screaming bargains and drinks easily like a wine more than twice as expensive.
(92 points) - 2011 Francois Gerard Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (10.2.2024)
100% Syrah made with mainly destemmed fruit. 1-2 days cold soak before fermentation. Macerated with the skins for 3 weeks with punchdowns and pump-overs. Aged for a total of 24 months in a combination of 228-liter pièces, 550-liter demi-muids and larger casks. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved and slightly translucent reddish-russet color with a dried-blood hue. The nose feels more closed rather than open with attractive aromas of blueberries and floral violet tones, some cherry nuances, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light spicy notes of crushed peppercorns, a hint of strawberry jam, a dark-toned touch of evolved meaty character and a whiff of smoke. The wine feels dry, crunchy and a bit reticent on the palate with a medium body and flavors that are not youthful nor particularly mature - there are notes of tart lingonberries, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of ripe blackberry, light gravelly mineral nuances, a hint of gamey meat and a spicy touch of crushed peppercorns. The overall feel is silky yet pretty firm with its rather high acidity - the resolved medium tannins contribute more to the texture than to the structure. The finish is lively, crunchy and gently grippy with a long, layered aftertaste of brambly raspberries and tart lingonberries, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light ferrous notes of blood, sweeter hints of blueberries and blackberries and a developed touch of wizened dark fruits.
An elegant, harmonious and slightly restrained Côte-Rôtie that is slowly approaching its plateau of maturity. The wine isn't young anymore, but it isn't fully mature yet - just getting close. It's not the most impressive or complex effort out there, but starting to exhibit some lovely tertiary qualities. I doubt any amount of aging will make this wine become a particularly phenomenal Northern Rhône Syrah, but it could still benefit from a little bit of additional aging. It is now a solid and harmonious Côte-Rôtie with no thrills or frills.
(91 points) - 2022 Guy Breton Beaujolais-Villages Cuvée Marylou - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages (10.2.2024)
100% Gamay sourced from 45 vines in lieux-dits Saint Joseph and Grand Cras. Fermented spontaneously in concrete tanks with semi-carbonic maceration. Aged in concrete tanks. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale, translucent raspberry-red color with a completely colorless rim. The nose feels very youthful and fruit-driven with somewhat wild aromas of raspberries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of lifted VA, light sappy notes of herby spice, a hint of darker forest fruits and a touch of funk. The wine feels dry, fresh and crunchy on the palate with a light body and slightly wild flavors of ripe raspberries and fresh wild strawberries, some blueberry tones, a little bit of lifted notes of VA, light candied notes of red-toned primary fruit, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of acetic tang. The wine is high in acidity whereas the gentle, supple tannins contribute only a tiny bit of grippy structure. The finish is bright, crunchy and slightly grippy with a long, youthful and a bit wild aftertaste of raspberries and wild strawberries, some herby spice, light tart cranberry tones, a little bit of gravelly earth, a lifted hint of acetic VA and a candied touch of sweet primary fruit.
A fun and nice but also a bit wild Bojo. I was surprised to find the wine remarkably fresh, dry and relatively light in body - nowadays Beaujolais seems to be so warm that many wines produced there are quite big, ripe and dark-toned, whereas this was exactly how I want my Beaujolais: light, playful and refreshing! The only thing that I wasn't too keen on was the somewhat volatile nature of the wine - I have no problems with funky tones, but the relatively light body of the wine couldn't really mask away the acetic undertones. Fortunately the wine isn't overtly acetic, though; just a tiny bit - more than I prefer, but perfectly within my level of tolerance. All in all, this was a fine and tasty lighter-end Beaujolais that I would've enjoyed even more had it shown a bit less of that acetic VA.
(88 points) - 1978 Domaine de Vallouit Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
Tasted blind.
Dark, moderately translucent syrupy-brown color with a wide, colorless rim. The nose feels old, stuffy and very tired; many people said the wine was corked, but I didn't identify any corked aromas - I just thought that the wine was older than the other people anticipated. There were aromas of smoked beef, some raisiny tones, a little bit of old leather, light notes of tobacco, a hint of farmhouse funk, a touch of damp straw and a whiff of salami. The wine feels old, tired and very tertiary on the palate with a medium body and aged flavors of dried cranberries and dark raisiny fruit, some tobacco and old leather, a little bit of dry hay, light tart notes of lingonberries, meaty hints of beef jerky and smoke-cured port and an oxidative touch of soy sauce. The wine is high in acidity with fully resolved, soft and supple tannins. The finish is old, earthy and moderately oxidative with a long, savory and quite tired aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some beef jerky, a little bit of damp hay, light notes of tobacco, a hint of old leather and an oxidative touch of soy sauce.
Several people thought the wine was corked, but they also thought the wine was considerably younger than it was. I thought it was several decades older than other people and the wine was just completely flat and dead by now, resulting in the dull, musty overall feel and almost complete lack of fruit. When the bottle was revealed, the other attendees in the tasting admitted that maybe I was right after all. I think this bottle was even more dead than the old, tried bottle we tasted 3½ years ago. - 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10.2.2024)
100% Syrah from lieux-dits Bessards, Beaumes, l'Hermite, le Méal and Péléat. All fruit is destemmed. Fermented spontaneously in old oak tonneaux. Aged for approximately 30 months in predominantly old barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, slightly translucent dried-blood color with a moderately wide, pale and fully translucent rim. The nose feels evolved, savory and complex with attractive aromas of wizened dark berries and dark plums, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light funky animale tones, a hint of dried dark fruits, a touch of juicy blackberry and a whiff of hot iron. The wine feels savory, textural and fully mature on the palate with a medium body and complex, evolved flavors of wizened dark berries, some tobacco, a little bit of old leather, light ferrous notes of blood, a faint hint of minty greenness and a touch of gamey meat. Despite its almost 30 years of age, the wine still retains quite a bit of structure with its high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is evolved, rather grippy and quite tertiary with a long, layered aftertaste of wizened dark berries, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light gamey nuances, a sanguine hint of iron and a touch of gravelly earth.
A beautiful, tasty and complex Hermitage at the end of its plateau of maturity. It is obvious the wine has achieved its peak years ago and has been there for quite some time - perhaps it has even evolved slightly past its peak and is in a bit of decline? The wine still retains both an impressive structure and a magical sense of tertiary complexity, but as the fruit flavors are starting to tire out, the are starting to lose their definition and vibrancy. I'd say the wine must've shown this level of tertiary complexity already years ago, but is now losing its fruit department gradually. Nevertheless, this is a fantastic example of aged Hermitage full of that fully mature Northern Rhône Syrah goodness. This is a real banger, but I don't really see much benefit from aging the wine any further - I think this is as good as it gets.
(95 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
