TN: Faryan’s Grand Sendoff – Blue Duck Tavern - Mostly matured Bordeauxs

WINE TALK
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FARYAN’S GRAND SENDOFF – BLUE DUCK TAVERN - MOSTLY MATURED BORDEAUXS - Blue Duck Tavern - Washington D.C. (9/12/2012)

One of the youngest winos in DC, Faryan is moving to NYC to take up a new position and we met up at Blue duck for his farewell dinner. In a dozen also dinners that I had with Faryan lead me to consider his palate one of the best and it was a pleasure to participate in his farewell dinner.

The restaurant was pretty busy and we were seated about 30 minutes late. Blue duck happens to be my go to restaurant in DC for the fresh ingredients and solid executions but this day, it didn’t meet the usual expectation. Nevertheless the wines showed extremely well and it was great fun to catching up with the good friends.
Starters

  • 1998 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé Rosé - France, Champagne
    Sweet nose, strawberry fruits, strawberry shortcake and caramel. Good weight, bright acidity and really dry finish. It is not a terribly complex wine but solid. BTW, really dry! (91 pts.)
  • 1989 Caves Duplessis Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Chris mentioned it was imported by Dan Kravitz. Beautifully fully matured medium to shy white Burgundy nose, honey, sea breeze more so than saline, apricot, a slight hint of les clos flint/limestone and roasted chestnut coming from slow bottle aging. Nice airy yet oily palate, slightly lacking acidity and definitely showing the maturity as the end note with a hint of sherry/oxidation which shortens the finish resulting in a couple points less than otherwise. Lovely. (92 pts.)
  • 1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque - France, Champagne
    Darryl mentioned that Justin Connor recommend this, a great call. It is delicate yet decadent, fine small mousse, a hint of grapefruit, a fresh slice of sweet apple, almond paste and ash. Delicate palate, bright acidity and long finish. Drinking perfectly right now. Lovely champagne. (96 pts.)

Two 96 St. Julien

  • 1996 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Jalapeno, a hint of green, lead pencil, cassis but overall red fruit expression, earth and ash. Silky sweet jammy palate, good balancing acidity and a hint of tannins at the end. There is a hint of bitter metallic note that results from a minor heat damage but still expressive and enjoyable. A good example of the 96 St Julien in bright acidity, lead pencil, a hint of green and tannins. Despite the possible damage, it is showing youthful. Still long life ahead. The correct bottle should be a 95 pointer. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Château Léoville Las Cases - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Deeply toned and big scale. Sweet Inky black fruits, cassis, graphite, vanilla, mushroom and earth. Still extremely youthful and developing slowly. Exceptional concentration, sweet, silky and clean palate. Nicely integrated tannins. Clear LLC signature of clean, youthful and modern. Drinking nicely but will improve at least for the next 20 years and will last for a while thereafter. (95 pts.)

WOTN

  • 1989 Château Calon-Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Showing the absurdity of 100 point scale and an extremely pleasant surprise. In general, Calon Segur really needs time and this, after twenty some years, is drinking extremely well. Sweet jammy red fruits, caramel, lead pencil, a hint of leather, tobacco, flower and earth. Silky jammy palate, good acidity and nicely integrated tannins. This is an intense and hedonistic wine. Definitely more advanced than the 96 LLC and drinking at the prime, most secondary heading towards tertiary. If tasted blind, I would guessed as the 90 vintage with hedonistic generous jammy fruits. Perhaps we caught this at the perfect moment but this is my WOTN. I highly recommend. (96 pts.)

Three 86s

  • 1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    I mentioned that this was corked but some doubted. Towards to the end, some retried from the bottle and TCA was more noticeable as usual. Almost drinkable initially. NR (flawed)
  • 1986 Château Cos d’Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Very youthful example, this particular bottle is showing more red fruits than usual, also lead pencil, mushroom and earth. Still remaining fresh, noticeable core intensity, silky and nicely integrated tannins. Perhaps need to be cellared a bit more as this bottle is not terribly complex, need a bit more tertiary to emerge. Still lovely. (93 pts.)
  • 1986 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon Anniversary Release - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
    Clearly significantly riper than Bordeauxs, jammy black fruits, licorice, fruitcake, dark caramel and port. Big rustic palate, unctuous, bright acidity and port like finish. Still plenty of fruits, intense and a bit rustic. (91 pts.)

Oldies

  • 1985 Château L’Eglise-Clinet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    From the start to end, minty note, also smoke, dark chocolate and only a hint of sweet dark fruits. Definitely unique and classically Pomerol amongst the left bankers. Silky, medium concentration and fully integrated tannins. Enjoyable but don’t see much upside and need to be drunk up sooner than later. (92 pts.)
  • 1975 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Fully matured and then some, cedar, nutmeg, leather, dry cherries and mushroom. Medium to light, silky and fully integrate tannins. This without food is a 88 pointer but with, a few points higher. Completely tertiary need to be drunk up. Recommend to those who love old school Bordeaux with mostly tertiary flavor and little fruit. (88 pts.)
  • 1978 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    Darryl loves Palmer and I see why. Always showing red fruit quality also intoxicating floral perfume, this is no exception. Pretty nose of strawberry preserve, perfume, prune, leather, tobacco and earth. Good concentration and nicely integrated acidity and tannins. The nose has good intensity but not terribly complex yet the classic Palmer perfume keeps the wine interesting. This is a hint of uncleanness but still quite enjoyable. No need to wait but will last. (92 pts.)
  • 1982 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Classic Pauillac nose, cassis, blackberries, lead pencil, a hint of cedar and earth. Excellent concentration and nicely integrated tannins. Still youthful and need time but drinking well with generous fruits. (94 pts.)

Sauternes

  • 1975 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    A youthful example. Apricot, mango, botrytis spice, nutmeg, burnt sugar and earl grey. Unctuous, noticeable sweetness and bright acidity. This is drinking beautifully at the moment but will last forever due to the high concentration and acidity. (93 pts.)
  • 1970 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Does D’Yquem ever make a bad wine? Not so at least based my experience and this is no exception.

I hit the jackpot and stayed at Chateau D’Yquem for two nights during my first trip to Bordeaux. Chateau D’Yquem is a fortress and situated at the plateau. Since the land is so flat, I could see miles away from my room on the second floor. Perhaps this is the reason why D’Yquem always display the unbelievable texture and the unique flavor profile.

The color close to the 75 than the 67, light amber, bright and clear. Still noticeable coconut and banana, also butterscotch, caramel, orange rind and apricot. The overall impression initially start shy but with air, it opens up nicely. IMO, what makes D’Yquem special is the texture, always oily and unctuous yet so ariy, disappears like cotton candy on the tongue. It is not the most complex D’Yquem and appears slightly lacking acidity but still showing exceptional balance and airy palate. A tremendous wine! (95 pts.)

  • 1986 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
    This as expected from a Climen is more linear and cooler. Subtle ginger and allspice, yellow fruits and lemon curd. Perfect balance, subtle, airy yet intensely flavored. With air, it improved so my rating may be slightly conservative. (94 pts.)

I hope that I will share many more bottles with Faryan in the future and I wish him the best in his new venture.
Posted from CellarTracker

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Nice notes!

Welcome to NYC, Faryan - see you soon! :slight_smile:

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Kevin…no burg [swearing.gif]

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Wow, when I leave Orlando it will probably be a night of Cisco, thunderbird and night train

Bravo D.C.

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Great notes Kevin. Thanks for posting. I’m glad we were able to send Faryan off with some great aged Bordeaux.

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They don’t serve any of that, Marc, in a Paddy Wagon.

Faryan has class, so he drinks well!

[wow.gif]

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Great notes, Kevin! 1989 Calon Segur?! Have never tried that! And you know that I have been ranting and raving over this estate because of recent experiences, notably the 2009… so the 1989 seems like a fine wine indeed.
Faryan! I do plan to get to NYC in January 2013, so will be in touch… let’s drink some good wines, yes?

Cheers from Strasbourg, Panos

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Great stuff Kevin, I’m going to have give Robert(deep pockets)Alfert the marching orders to hunt down some Calon Segur…I have both the '96 ducru and LLC…but honestly I’ve tasted the ducru twice and have yet to be overly impressed. Regardless, an amazing tasting.

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Panos, what other Calon Segur vintages r u liking right now?

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Find it, I buy it, we drink it.

Love,

Robert “My Wife and Friends Suck my Meager Wallet Dry” Alfert

[cheers.gif]

PS. Marc was with me when we popped the corked '86 Ducru, the corked '82 Grand Puy Lacoste, and then recently, the smoking '82 La Lagune. He’s like a stray dog, or coyote ugly. I can’t get rid of him!

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Wasn’t there to mooch off a taste the of the’86 g.larose unfortunately…Alfert managed to slip one by me dammit…never again…(every now and then the ivy leaguers let me hang out with them) so any chance i get to ride Alferts coat-tails I do it, especially now with his (hot body by mamood) he’s even easy on the eyes.

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Marc, the '82 Calon Segur is a great wine now coming into it’s own. The '86 is also good, but less accessible than the '82. Given the Bordeaux environment, both wines are “reasonably” priced.

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First of all, thanks to all for the lovely send-off. Excellent night with some great friends who will be sorely missed. Not to worry though, unless NY brainwashing me with its splendor, I anticipate touching base with my DC roots de temps de temps!

Regarding the wines, I’ll only offer some brief impressions: The Dom Oeno was magical; really a storybook on focus married with refined poise. The 96s were a great little snapshot as I think the vintage has quite a way to go (esp on the Left Bank). The LLC benefited from a nice decant prior but I think it is a clearly superior wine (if not a flat out excellent example). I’m usually not a LLC fan, but this vintage was stellar. The jalapeneo/asparagus/green streak in the Ducru was actually enjoyable to me and kind of blew off with some time in glass. I guess I’ve been drinking too much Loire huh, but Kevin nailed the slight metallic clip to the finish, which I never associated with minor heat damage (you learn form the master).

Regarding the CS, I can only reiterate how lovely it was showing. Reminded me a bit of fineTalbot/Gruaud Larose with its sauvage (not as intense as GL) and deep pitch to the fruit. Wonderful. I might have to treat a lucky NY gal to a bottle on Valentine’s day :wink: The L’Eglise Clinet was beautiful and sexy with lush fruit and a really wonderful mouthfeel. I think the Cos was a precocious wine, that teased you with its potential but didn’t quite come out to play.

Count me in the camp that was skeptical about the PLL being corked at first (only for it to be clearly confirmed with more air) mostly because I’ve had bottles of 86 PLL that show very reticent/hollow on opening but flesh out with air. Its something I get from some 25+ bdx that feels like it was just grumpy getting out of bed.

I thought the 82 GPL was wonderful in its purity and structure and could use another 5-10 to layer on more complexity. Super clean. The Palmer was classic Palmer, veritably signed by the terroir with its floral perfume and pitch of fruit.

Regarding the Sauternes, we had a master class in stylistic differences. The LTB was coconut in your nose, with such brazen aromas that were truly enjoyable. In direct contrast, the Climens was lithe on its feet and absolutely delicate, just dancing on the palate with delicate white floral notes (quintessential Barsac). Is there a better value in old Sauternes?!? But to me, the Yquem was simply devastating. There is no other Sauternes I’ve had that develops such a deep and captivating pitch to the nose while still coming across as primary. This wine could evolve for another 40 years easily. The nose still haunts me and I would rate it a few notches above where Kevin put it.

Cheers!

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Peter,
There was a Chablis Les Clos. [wink.gif]

Marc and Robert,
The 89 Calon was drinking perfectly.

Panos,
I am a big fan of the 09 in general and personally think most wine lovers will prefer to the 10 with time, if you like the way the 90s are drinking now.

Faryan,
I knew there was a special reason for moving to NYC. [wink.gif] Regarding the rating of the 70 D’Yquem, although I am a proponent of the 100 point scale, it is not a precise tool. In hedonistic scale, I could have given 98 or even 99 but considering this being D’Yquem and having tasted the 67, 75 and 76, the fruit expression is not as complex and the nose not as explosive. It is a beautiful wine and the perfect way to end the evening.

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Panos, when will you be in DC? Maybe we can taste some 89 Calon Segur. I’m not sure it was my wine of the night but definitely top three. It was a stunning wine.

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Faryan,

When you get settled and have some time lets have a dinner and share some wine.

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Great notes, Kevin, thanks. I stopped trying to record after the flight of 86s. The '95 DP was my personal WOTN, but it’s almost unfair to say so, because a Champagne or Sauternes will almost always win in my mind. As for the BDX, I really enjoyed the ones already mentioned ('96 LLC, '89 CS and '86 Cos); of the three, I’d give a slight edge to the Cos – I loved the red fruit and earthiness and even a bit of cinnamon spice. I thought it had the longest finish as well.

The '70 Yquem was indeed special. I’m so ecstatic/relieved that it showed well, but I can’t take credit for its condition. I’ve only cellared it personally for nine months or so – it was this bottle: http://www.wineberserkers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=773160

The service was disappointing at BDT, which is rare because it is normally excellent, and we were supposed to get very special treatment from the GM. Hopefully it was just an off night because I really do love the food there.

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Scott,
Thanks for the generous contribution. It far exceeded my imagination. I also love Blue Duck and I won’t change my opinion based this anomaly.

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Faryan’s Grand Sendoff was a great event. I took no notes but do have a few thoughts to share. For me, the stars of the evening were the 1995 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque, 1989 Calon Segur and 1970 Yquem; all captured quite accurately in Kevin’s fine tasting notes. My other favorites were the nicely fully mature 1978 Palmer and 1985 L’Eglise Clinet, the always wonderful 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste and the graceful 1986 Climens. My take on the 1996 St. Juliens was a bit different than Kevin’s, I thought the 1996 Leoville Las Cases was very impressive but not all that enjoyable for current drinking while the 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou though perhaps more advanced than it should be it was really quite lovely. I was quite pleased that my 1989 Chablis was still holding together and in better shape than many white Burgundies ten to fifteen years younger.