I had been building this tasting up for quite some time: at 2018 I realized I had some curiosities in my cellar - a varietal Petit Meslier Champagne and a varietal Pinot Gris Champagne. I decided it would be much more interesting to drink these ones together instead of having one here and another one there.
Well, slowly that plan evolved into this Champagne Bonanza where I had every variety permitted in Champagne represented both as varietal wines and blends of (at least) seven different varieties. And as if that wouldnât been enough, I decided to round off the remainder with some closely related curiosities - a RosĂ© Champagne made like a RosĂ© des Riceys - only with bubbles - and three different still wines!
But I guess fourteen Champagnes just isnât enough for everybody, so we ended up having even more extra wines before and after these.
The common varieties
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2006 Pascal Doquet Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont Aimé - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (25.2.2023)
100% Chardonnay from 1er Cru vineyards. Aged in stainless steel tanks (64%) and oak fûts (36%). Bottled in April 2007, disgorged on May 2nd, 2017. 12,5% alcohol, dosage 3,5 g/l - ie. Extra Brut.
Medium-deep lemon-yellow color. The nose feels subtly green-toned but otherwise quite ripe an nuances with aromas of Granny Smith apple and some birch leaves, a little bit of ripe lemony citrus fruits, light nutty notes of slivered almonds, an autolytic hint of leesy yeast, a touch of chalky minerality and an evolved whiff of bruised apple. The wine feels dry, focused and harmonious on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of mealy red apple, some nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of ripe lemony citrus fruits, light leesy notes of yeast, evolved hints of bruised apple and roasted nuts and a touch of chalky minerality. The brisk acidity and very fine yet also crisp and persistent mousse lend good sense of energy and structure to the wine. The finish is long, zippy and quite complex with dry, layered flavors of bruised apple, some evolved nutty tones, a little bit of ripe lemon, light sweeter nuances of dried yellow fruits, a hint of slivered almonds and a touch of baked apple.
This was a surprising experience: I had tasted this wine 6Âœ years ago, in late 2016. That wine was - obviously - a different disgorgement, since this wine that we tasted now was disgorged only in 2017, ie. later than when I had tasted the earlier disgorgement of 2006 Mont AimĂ©. The wine I had tasted earlier was noticeably more darker-toned, emphasizing power and toasty qualities, whereas this wine was less weighty, more mineral and even slightly green-toned in character, contrasting greatly the style of these two different disgorgements. However, that wine also seemed like it wasn't really meant for further aging, whereas this wine seemed still relatively youthful, showing lots of potential for further development. I'd say this wine is more in line with a traditional Blanc de Blancs style, but perhaps ultimately the earlier disgorgement wine was more impressive, more complex and more enjoyable. Maybe by a tiny margin, but still. Yet again, it's fully possible this later disgorgement just needs more time to reach the same level of complexity - and it's entirely possible this wine might continue to evolve and improve even further. At 44,95âŹ, this was a good purchase.
(91 points) -
NV Dehours Champagne Terre de Meunier Extra Brut - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
100% Pinot Meunier sourced from two parcels: the south-facing Le Patis de Cerseuil and the north-facing Le Vignes Dans le Bois, located in the Marne valley. This wine is based on the 2014 vintage, blended with a small addition of the 2013 vintage that was aged for a year in oak barrels. Full MLF. Bottled in June 2015 without fining and filtration, disgorged in February 2017, after 20 months in aging sur lattes. 12% alcohol, dosage 2 g/l.
Quite deep golden yellow color. The nose feels dark-toned and pretty toasty with aromas of bruised apple, some meaty notes of prosciutto, a little bit of ripe yellow fruits, light red-toned cherry nuances, a hint of honey-and-oats and a touch of bready autolysis. The wine feels ripe, somewhat evolved and moderately toasty on the palate with flavors of bruised apple, some red-toned nuances of cherries or raspberries, a little bit of honey-and-oats, light saline mineral nuances, a leesy hint of autolysis and a sweeter touch of ripe white peach. The wine is medium-to-moderately high in acidity with a crisp yet gentle, medium-long mousse. The finish is juicy, clean and quite gentle with a moderately long aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light toasty nuances of nuttiness and bready autolysis, a hint of honey-and-oats and a touch of sweet red-toned fruit.
A juicy, balanced and moderately evolved Meunier Champagne that has developed some lovely tertiary characteristics, yet retaining quite a bit of youthful fruit as well. I guess a bit more acidity couldn't have hurt, but fortunately the wine shows good sense of balance and structure as it is. It is drinking really well now, being smack in the middle of its drinking window, but I guess there's a bit of room for additional complexity for those patient people who prefer their Champagnes developed, rich and toasty. A terrific purchase at 33,50âŹ.
(91 points) -
NV Eric Rodez Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (25.2.2023)
100% Pinot Noir from biodynamically farmed Grand Cru vineyards in Ambonnay. Typically composed of 5-6 different vintages; aged partially in oak barrels (90%) and partially in enameled tanks (10%). Normally a small portion (approx. 20%) undergoes MLF. No idea about the base vintage; the lot number is L09/17 and this is disgorged in November 2016. 12% alcohol, dosage 5 g/l.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels ripe and slightly sweet-toned but also a bit restrained with layered aromas of bruised apple, some ripe lemony tones, a little bit of acacia honey, light nuances of marzipan, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of steely minerality. The wine feels ripe and quite broad yet dry on the palate with a rather full body and juicy flavors of ripe Fuji apple, some spicy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light red-toned cherry nuances, a toasty hint of brioche and a savory touch of salinity that adds to the breadth of the texture. The mousse feels quite sparse yet rather lengthy with moderately big bubbles. The high acidity keeps the wine fresh and structured. The finish is long, ripe and juicy with a rather long aftertaste of zesty citrus fruits, some ripe Golden Delicious apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light toasty nuances of brioche, a hint of savory spices and a touch of developed nuttiness.
A fine, nuanced and quite complex Blanc de Noirs that is starting to show some sense of development, yet is still pretty youthful and still brimming with life and energy. After a leaner Blanc de Noirs and a bit softer but similarly red-toned and nutty Meunier BdN, this Pinot Noir BdN seems to combine the best of the two worlds: the wine shows red-toned fruit flavors, toasty nuances and nuttiness, but despite its breadth and ripeness it comes across as refreshing, precise and mineral. This isn't a big and vinous Blanc de Noirs, but it's sort of leaning in that direction. Good stuff that drinks mighty well right now, but will continue to develop and improve for years more. Good value at 40,95âŹ.
(92 points)
The rare varieties
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2013 Piollot Champagne Colas Robin Brut Nature - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
100% Pinot Blanc, fermented and aged in stainless steel (80%) and oak barrels (20%). MLF. Bottled unfiltered. 12% alcohol.
Quite deep and intense yellow-green color. The nose feels youthful, fresh and fruit-forward with bright aromas of crunchy Golden Delicious apple, some white peach, light leesy notes of autolysis, light zesty citrus fruit nuances and a hint of white flowers. The wine feels dry, firm and savory on the palate with a medium body flavors of ripe citrus fruits and white peach, some saline notes, a little bit of leesy autolysis, light stony mineral tones, a hint of fresh exotic fruits and a touch of crunchy apple. The mousse feels bretty brisk but also very fine, silky and persistent. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is leesy, long and quite mineral with a dry aftertaste of chalk dust, some ripe citrus fruit tones, a little bit of ripe white peach, light crunchy apple tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a floral touch of apple blossom.
A sophisticated, tasty and still very youthful Pinot Blanc Champagne. It's quite odd how the 2012 Colas Robin was surprisingly toasty and complex at the age of five years, whereas this 2013 Colas Robin was much more linear and fruity, showing very little toast or any other autolytic qualities. While wonderfully refreshing and palate-cleansing in quality, this wine wasn't nearly as complex as interesting as the previous vintage. However, the wine carries its lack of dosage remarkably well - thanks to the inherently fruity nature of Pinot Blanc. A similarly dry Chardonnay might be a bit too lean for pleasure, whereas this wine is not lacking fruit one bit, and the not-too-aggressive acidity is in perfect balance with the body and the fruit. A tiny bit of dosage might help the wine develop some toasty qualities with additional bottle age, but I feel it could accentuate those ripe, sweet-toned fruit flavors a bit too much. All in all, this is a thoroughly enjoyable effort, but based on the very youthful and still pretty linear nature of the wine, I'd say it could easily age and improve for another 5-10 years more. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 52,39âŹ.
(90 points) -
NV Derot-Delugny Pinot Gris Champagne Cuvée des Fondateurs - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
100% Fromenteau aka. Pinot Gris - probably the only one of its kind. I have no idea about the base vintage or when the wine was disgorged, but since the wine was purchased five years ago, in early 2018, it ain't young anymore. 12% alcohol, dosage 7 g/l.
Youthful and quite intense lime-green color. The nose feels dry, slightly evolved and somewhat underwhelming with aromas of slivered almonds, some perfumey floral tones, a little bit of damp wool, light chalk dust tones, a hint of mealy yellow apple and a touch of zesty citrus fruit. It feels as though the fruit department has started to fade away without getting replaced with any tertiary complexity. The wine is dry, sleek and a bit reticent on the palate with a medium body and light flavors of mealy red apple, some sweeter citrus fruit tones, a little bit of chalk dust, light woolly nuances, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of perfumed floral character. The wine is quite high in acidity, but the dosage still shows slightly. The mousse feels tiny, fine and creamy. The finish is dry, somewhat reticent and quite linear with a moderately long aftertaste of ripe citrus fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of sweet white fruit, light evolved woolly nuances and a hint of chopped almonds.
An enjoyable and refreshing but also rather linear and a bit underwhelming Champagne that doesn't seem to have benefited from aging. When I tasted this wine back in 2017, I found it quite austere but more in a positive way, not unlike a bubbly version of Muscadet or Txakolina. However, it seems like Pinot Gris Champagne doesn't develop the same kind of depth and toasty complexity as, say, a Chardonnay. If the wine has been pretty lean and neutral to begin with, it really doesn't surprise me that it hasn't evolved into something more impressive with bottle age. This is a nice curiosity, but - at least this time - nothing beyond that. However, at just 27âŹ, this was more or less worth the price.
(88 points) -
NV Champagne Gruet Champagne Cuvée Arbane Brut - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
100% Arbanne - probably one of four of five such Champagnes in existence. No idea about the base vintage or the date of disgorgement. 12% alcohol.
Quite neutral pale yellow color with faint, youthful greenish highlights. The nose feels youthful, fresh and slightly herby with a bit restrained aromas of sweet white fruits, some pomelo tones, a little bit of crunchy white currant, light fragrant nuances of apple blossom and a hint of steely minerality. The wine is clean, somewhat neutral and still quite juicy - yet not heavy - on the palate with a moderately full body and bright flavors of ripe white peach, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of aromatic herbal character (without any herbaceous greenness), light saline nuances and a hint of zesty pomelo. The high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine and the tiny, silky and persistent mousse lends wonderful sense of finesse to the wine. The finish is juicy, rich and palate-cleansing with a long, ripe aftertaste of sweet white fruits, some red apple tones, a little bit of pithy pomelo, light mineral nuances of chalky bitterness and a hint of spicy herbs.
A nice, clean and quite fruity Champagne that feels like it has attained a good level of ripeness, yet the fruit flavors are not that of a particularly ripe Champagne - instead coming across as pretty brisk and a bit restrained, showing more emphasis on minerality and even some herby tones. Although the wine isn't big on either body or fruit, the overall feel is still pretty fruity and juicy. Although the wine isn't that memorable or complex, it is thoroughly enjoyable and delicious - in other words, this isn't just a wine to quench academic curiosity! Maybe not entirely worth the money at 49,95âŹ, but I guess you can ask what you want for your wine if you're making one of the very few varietal Arbannes in the world!
(90 points) -
2005 Duval-Leroy Petit Meslier Champagne Authentis Brut - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
One of the very few varietal Petit Meslier Champagnes in existence. The wine is aged in oak fûts before bottling. No idea for how long the wine is aged sur lattes. 12% alcohol. Total production 988 bottles.
Somewhat evolved, medium-deep straw-yellow color with faint youthful greenish highlights. The nose feels complex and attractive with layered aromas of nutty autolysis and toasty brioche, some smoky tones, a little bit of bruised apple, light creamy notes of panna cotta, a hint of honey-and-oats and a touch of zesty citrus fruits. The wine is evolved, complex and quite toasty on the palate with a rather full body and layered flavors of toasty nuttiness and hay, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of tart Granny Smith apple, light zippy notes of Meyer lemon or key lime, a hint of steely minerality and an autolytic touch of brioche. The acidity feels pretty high - sufficient to lend great sense of freshness and structure to the wine along with the very fine yet surprisingly crisp and lively mousse. The finish is crisp, dry and zippy with a complex aftertaste of salt and lemon wedges, some evolved nutty and bruised apple tones, a little bit of developed creamy character, light chalky mineral nuances, a toasty hint of brioche and a touch apple peel bitterness.
A wonderfully complex, layered and balanced Champagne that is not only very interesting in its own right as a rare varietal Petit Meslier, but also as a brisk yet vinous and beautifully toasty non-Chardonnay Blanc de Noirs. Truth be told, it's be hard - if not impossible - to tell this wine apart from an evolved, toasty Chardonnay BdB. But I don't mind - on the contrary, I wish more Blanc de Blancs Chardonnays were more like this! Superb stuff. Not affordable at 106âŹ, but arguably this might be just worth the price. However, I'd keep my eyes open for any reasonably priced bottles.
(94 points)
The blends
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NV Janisson Baradon & Fils Champagne 7C - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
A blend of Arbanne (15%), Petit Meslier (15%), Pinot Blanc (15%), Pinot Gris (15%), Pinot Meunier (15%), Pinot Noir (13%) and Chardonnay (12%) from vintages 2014 and 2015. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Bottled unfiltered on 27th of July, 2016. Disgorged in July 2018, after aging two years sur lattes. 12% alcohol, dosage 4,5 g/l. Total production 2124 bottles.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels crisp, youthful and surprisingly green-toned - even slightly vegetal - with aromas of grassy greenness, some chopped cucumber tones, a little bit of crunchy Granny Smith apple, light zesty notes of key lime, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of leesy yeast. The wine is crisp, lean and very acid-driven on the palate with a rather light body and bone-dry flavors of apple peel bitterness and chalky minerality, some grassy green tones, a little bit of key lime, light leesy notes of yeast, a hint of spicy herbs and a touch of steely minerality. The mousse feels fine, smooth and quite gentle, whereas the bracing acidity is anything but - lending a tremendous amount of energy and incisive structure to the wine. The bone-dry finish is crisp, lean and quite intense with a long, focused aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and grassy greenness, some vegetal herby notes, a little bit of nutty almond, light bitter notes of apple peel and chalk dust, a hint of key lime and a touch of leesy autolysis.
I was surprised how very lean, austere and even somewhat vegetal the wine was, given how the wine is based on the very warm 2015 vintage - however, I've been told that there are some very green 2015 Champagnes, so I guess this wine might've been one of those. There's great sense of freshness and intensity here, but instead of coming across as an interesting combination of all the allowed varieties in Champagne, this feels more or less like a barely ripe Blanc de Blancs without much depth or character. This is a nice, brisk aperitif, but very little beyond that. The wine could evolve and improve with further aging, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 44,95âŹ.
(89 points) -
NV Laherte FrĂšres Champagne Les 7 Extra Brut - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
Although the bottle talks about 'solera' aging method, the reserve wine is aged by 'cuvée perpétuelle' method (no different tiers between barrels). This is a field blend wine elaborated from the base wine (60%) and a perpetual blend of vintages from 2005-2013 (40%) from 'Les Clos' vineyard. The name comes from the 7 Burgundy barrels contributing containing the blend and the 7 different grape varieties planted at Les Clos. This wine is blended from the following varieties: Chardonnay (18%), Pinot Meunier (18%), Pinot Blanc (17%), Petit Meslier (15%), Pinot Noir (14%), Pinot Gris (10%), Arbane (8%). No MLF. The disgorgement date is left blank in the back label - there's only the lot number "L15". 12,5% alcohol, dosage 0-4 g/l.
Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe, somewhat tropical and quite characterful with aromas of peach, some juicy red apple, a little bit of sauerkraut, light nutty notes of almond, a hint of crunchy whitecurrant and a touch of leesy autolysis. The wine is brisk, lean and even quite austere on the palate with a medium body and bone-dry flavors of fresh white fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy yellow apple and almost unripe nectarine, light lemony tones, a hint of leesy autolysis and a touch of sauerkraut. The bracing acidity makes the wine feel quite incisive, which is only emphasized by the tiny yet crisp and persistent mousse - however, there is some sense breadth from the bottle age that acts as a minute counterpoint to the piercing intensity of the wine. The finish is lean, long and very crisp with a bone-dry aftertaste of pithy lemon and steely minerality, some leesy notes, a little bit of bready autolysis, light crunchy Granny Smith apple tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of chalky mineral bitterness.
Just like the previous cuvĂ©e I tasted in 2015 (based on vintages from 2005 to 2011), the wine was - again - very taut, lean and bracing on the palate. However, that earlier bottle showed more sense of complexity and darker-toned flavors. I had expected this wine to develop more depth, breadth and toasty complexity, but instead the wine was not only more youthful than the cuvĂ©e I had tasted earlier, but was strikingly backward for its age. Earlier I had thought this wine was built for the long haul but I might need to reconsider my stance - it seems that even though the wine is very intense and packed with vivacious acidity, the lack of dosage combined with relatively lean, understated fruit might not translate to great aging potential. Or then I just caught the wine in a dumb phase and it actually needs a lot more bottle age? Who knows. All in all, this was a great and characterful Champagne, but I would be lying if I said it matched my expectations. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 56,95âŹ.
(90 points) -
2015 BenoĂźt Lahaye Champagne Grand Cru Brut Nature Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (25.2.2023)
This must be the most atypical Grand Cru Champagne there is: it is a field blend from an old (parts up to 90 years old) vineyard in Bouzy farmed biodynamically and planted with at least Arbanne, Blanc Vrai (Pinot Blanc), Chardonnay, Chasselas, Fromenteau (Pinot Gris), Gros Plant (most likely Folle Blanche), Petit Meslier, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and "Teinturier" (Gamay de Chaudenay, perhaps?) with other possible, unrecognized varieties. That means that this is a blend of at least 10 different varieties containing the 7 authorized varieties in Champagne and 3 unauthorized ones, all harvested on the same day. The wine is fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and aged for 10 months in old oak piĂšces and barriques on its lees. The wine does not list the bottling date, but I assume it is somewhere in mid-to-late 2016. Disgorged in October 2019, after a minimum of 36 months of aging. 12% alcohol, no dosage.
Medium-deep straw-yellow color. Very characterful and complex nose with layered aromas of mixed fruit juice, some creamy notes of oak, a little bit of apple, jam, light toasty notes of brioche, a hint of pineapple, a touch of waxy funk and a whiff of exotic fruit candies. The wine feels remarkably vinous, concentrated and complex on the palate with a full body and dry, intense flavors of ripe citrus fruits and spicy red apple, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of toasty nuttiness, light woody tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of exotic fruit. The voluminous, crisp and mouth-filling mousse feels remarkably persistent and the high acidity keeps the relatively big body of the wine wonderfully in check. The palate-cleansing finish is crisp, complex and remarkably intense with a long, bone-dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some nutty notes of slivered almonds, a little bit of savory wood spice, light mineral notes of chalk dust and wet rocks, a hint of tangy salinity and a sweeter touch of tropical fruits.
I had tasted this wine once before - the 2009 vintage back in 2017. Looking back, I thought the wine had just taken me by surprise which is why I had rated it so highly (even though almost everyone agreed that it was the best wine in the tasting). Well, it turned out that even now, when I knew what to expect, this wine managed to blow my socks off. This is just crazy stuff with a very unique, sort of exotic fruit profile with good sense of minerality and faint woody undertones. Sure, the wine is pretty hefty and vinous for a Champagne - it ain't a delicate and zippy bubbly by any accounts. However, despite its obvious ripeness, sense of concentration and quite tactile body, the wine is remarkably precise, structured and mineral at the same time, showing remarkable sense of finesse for the size. It's very hard to say whether the wine is at its peak, close to its plateau of maturity or just steadily climbing up, but it is in a superb spot right now. A very singular wine I'd love to revisit as often as possible. At 95⏠this wine doesn't come cheap, but it does offer quite a bit of value for the money. Very highly recommended.
(96 points)
The rosé bubbly and the still wines
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2006 Piollot Champagne Rosé Extra Brut - France, Champagne (25.2.2023)
A rosé de maceration Champagne, 100% Pinot Noir. Whereas rosé Champagnes are normally macerated for a few hours hours for pale rosés and up to 48 hours for deep rosés, this wine has been macerated with the skins for 5-8 days (the amount of days differing quite much depending on the source, with most of the sources talking about maceration time of 5-6 days), making this basically a bubbly version of Rosé de Riceys. Aged in oak barrels before bottling. Aged sur lattes for four years. 12% alcohol, dosage 3 g/l.
Strikingly deep, translucent cherry-red color with an evolved brick-red hue and a colorless rim. The nose feels somewhat pungent and a bit old with tertiary aromas of fermented strawberries, some savory meat stew tones, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light sweet notes of cherry marmalade, a hint of hoi sin and a touch of wood. The wine feels dry, crisp and rather evolved on the palate with a quite full body and somewhat tired flavors of ripe red fruits, some fermented strawberry tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light savory notes of hoi sin and meat stew, a hint of spicy Pinosity and a touch of developed syrupy character. The brisk, racy acidity and crisp, ample and persistent mousse lend the wine a lot of energy, even if the flavor department is lacking in it. There's also a tiniest tug of tannins on the gums. The long finish is ripe, complex and subtly grippy with a dry, broad and quite intense aftertaste of wizened raspberries and fermented strawberries, some savory notes of meat stew, a little bit of dry woody spice, light tart and bitter nuances of lingonberries, an oxidative hint of soy sauce and a touch of earth.
Back in 2015 this was one of the most impressive saignée Champagnes I had tasted: big, burly and vinous - more like a light red wine with bubbles, boasting big body, lots of fruit and structure and a quite noticeable yet not overdone streak of oak. I expected the wine to age wonderfully, based on how the wine sported superb structure, fruit and oak - alas, it seems eight extra years were too much. I have no doubts the wine had aged and improved since my previous taste, but perhaps I should've waited two to four years instead of eight. This was still enjoyable, interesting and quite impressive in its own right, but there was no denying the fruit department had faded quite a bit and some oxidative notes of soy sauce, meat stew and hoi sin had settled in. It's a shame Piollot doesn't seem to make this kind of wine anymore - even though the wine doesn't seem to be able to age for +15 years, it was a stunner at around ten years of age!
(88 points) -
2011 Françoise Bedel Pinot Meunier Vin Cent Bulle - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois (25.2.2023)
A still Blanc de Noirs from Pinot Meunier, aged on the lees in steel tanks (80%) and oak barrels (20%) for 22 months. Total production 940 bottles.
Very slightly hazy and still remarkably youthful lime-green color. The nose feels juicy, somewhat sweet-toned and slightly evolved with aromas of creamy custard, some apple jam, light fragrant notes of lemon zest, a little bit of wild waxy funk, a hint of grapefruit and a woody touch of oak spice. The wine feels crisp, firm and dry on the palate with a quite light body and somewhat lean and rather leesy flavors of fresh Golden Delicious apple and pomelo, some leesy tones, a little bit of developed creaminess, light mineral notes of incisive steely character and wet rocks, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of tangy salinity. The bright, racy acidity lends great sense of structure and electric intensity to the wine. The finish is long, crisp and racy with flavors of tart Granny Smith apple and lemony citrus fruits, some leesy notes of creaminess, a little bit of tangy salinity, light custard tones, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of buttery oak.
The last time I tasted this wine - some seven years ago (almost to the date!) - it felt quite thin, borderline under-ripe and almost excessively leesy. Fortunately the wine didn't show any vegetal notes typical of the 2011 vintage, but otherwise it seemed just too lean and awkward. I didn't expect the wine to change much over the years, but to my surprise, aging had improved the wine quite noticeably! Sure, it was still light-bodied, leesy and very racy with a very bracing acidity, but now the overall impression was that of a balanced wine: age had granted some breadth to the mouthfeel; there was a little bit of developed custardy creaminess; the leesy character wasn't so overwhelming; and the oak tones weren't so awkward and out-of-place anymore. Although the wine still felt very slightly more like a Champagne without bubbles than a proper white wine, it wasn't a distraction anymore. This was a perfect case in point why these white Coteaux Champenois wines shouldn't be drunk too young, but instead with some age - despite their seemingly wispy nature, they consistently seem to age remarkably well! This was a pretty good purchase for its quality at 27,50âŹ, after all.
(92 points) -
2009 Olivier Horiot Rosé des Riceys Esquisse - France, Champagne, Rosé des Riceys (25.2.2023)
"Esquisse no. 3": Made with the best Pinot Noir grapes harvested on September 26th, 2009 from the En Barmont and En Valingrain vineyards. 10% of the grapes are crushed, the remainder as whole bunches employing carbonic maceration. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 5 days. Aged for a few years in one old barrique. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12% alcohol. Bottle #201 of total 268 bottles and 20 magnums.
Quite deep, luminous and moderately translucent raspberry red color. The nose feels fragrant, slightly wild and very attractive with complex, fragrant aromas of strawberries and ripe cherries, some perfumed floral tones, a little bit of pomegranate juice, light zesty notes of orange rind, a hint of stewed redcurrants, a lifted touch of VA and a whiff of brambly black raspberries. The wine feels ripe, focused and remarkably concentrated on the palate with a medium body and very dry flavors of tart lingonberries and crunchy cranberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of bretty barnyard funk, light leathery tones, a hint of phenolic bitterness and a touch of tangy salinity. The wine is not only very high in acidity, but also sporting pretty firm and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is powerful, persistent and slightly grippy with an intense, dry aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries along with sweeter nuances of cherries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of lifted Chinotto character, light saline mineral notes, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of crunchy Granny Smith apple.
A glorious example of RosĂ© des Riceys showing what this unique style of rosĂ© is capable of. Even though the wine is almost 14 years old, it doesn't really show any age yet; and even though it is supposed to be a rosĂ©, it is built like a red wine - and it looks like one, too. Only the very mineral and acid-driven overall style points out the fact we're in Champagne and not, say, in Burgundy with this wine. Seeing how very youthful and remarkably structure-driven this wine is, I wouldn't be one bit surprised if this continued to evolve and improve for years - even decades - more. Not particularly affordable for a rosĂ© at 69âŹ, but this really does deliver for the price. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) -
2012 Champagne Fleury Coteaux Champenois Rouge - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois (25.2.2023)
Made with biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir, partly from very old (+50 yo) vines grown in lieu-dit Replat Champraux. Macerated with the skins for 15 days. Aged for 1 year in oak barrels. 11% alcohol.
Deep, moderately translucent blood-red color with an evolved brick-red hue. The nose feels somewhat evolved and quite complex with nuances aromas of wizened strawberries and fresh cranberries, some dried red-fruit notes, a little bit of volatile lift, light smoky tones of Speck or bacon, a hint of savory Pinosity and a touch of stony minerality. The wine is lean, textural and crunchy on the palate with a rather full body and very dry flavors of tart lingonberries and crunchy redcurrants, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of cranberry sauce, light evolved notes of dried red fruits, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of spicy Pinosity. The structure relies almost entirely on the bracingly high acidity, although there's a tiniest bit of tannic grip, too. The finish is dry, crunchy and subtly grippy with a long aftertaste of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of Granny Smith apple, light evolved notes of dried strawberries, a hint of developed meaty character and a lifted touch of VA.
A wonderfully crisp, focused and precise red Coteaux Champenois with a surprising amount of body, fruit and concentration for the rather meager level of ABV. The incisive acidity and pronounced mineral tones clearly put this wine in the realm of Coteaux Champenois, but I'm still quite impressed by the intensity, breadth and depth of flavor here. Although the wine is starting to show some age, it doesn't feel particularly tertiary yet and I wouldn't be surprised if the wine continued to improve for years more. Great stuff, will keep for a long time - although the wine is drinking really well right now. A terrific purchase at 28,50âŹ.
(93 points)
The extras
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2018 La Marea Grenache - USA, California, Central Coast (25.2.2023)
13,6% alcohol and 5,4 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Pale, translucent blood-red color with a colorless rim. Fragrant nose full of aromas of strawberries and cherry jam, some spicy tones, a little bit of Pinosity, light woody nuances and a hint of dank herby character. The wine feels ripe, juicy and somewhat sweet-toned on the palate with a moderately full body and vibrant, sunny flavors of strawberries, sweet cherries and meaty umami, some peppery tones, a little bit of savory Pinosity, light woody tones, a hint of crunchy red plum and a touch of smoke. The wine is moderately high in acidity with supple, gentle medium tannins. The finish is vibrant, ripe and somewhat spicy with flavors of red plums, some gamey and meaty tones, a little bit of peppery spice and savory Pinosity, light woody nuances, a hint of strawberry and a touch of dank aromatic herbs.
Strawberry tones could easily point out to both Grenache and warm-climate Pinot Noir - and many other varieties - but based on the savory, spicy tones, nice acidity and just general Pinosity, I guessed this must be a Pinot Noir from a warmer climate, so I guessed a Santa Maria Pinot Noir. Well, this turned out to be a Central Coast Grenache! Stylistically showing more freshness, brightness and that savory spiciness than the sweeter, softer and heftier Southern RhĂŽne Grenache wines, but not coming across as dense and chewy as the more structured Spanish Garnachas. A fine wine that avoids the typical pitfalls of Grenache, working as a great stand-in for a new world Pinot Noir. Perhaps a bit pricey for the quality at 30,70âŹ, but not prohibitively so.
(89 points) -
2021 Domaine de Majas Rouge - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, CĂŽtes Catalanes (25.2.2023)
A blend of organically farmed Carignan (50%) and Grenache (50%) from vineyards ranging from 20 to 120-plus years old. Fermented spontaneously, aged on the lees in concrete tanks. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Very primary, subtly hazy and almost fully opaque cherry-red color with a youthful blueish hue. The nose feels very primary with aromas of red berry compote and ripe cherry, some earthy notes of garrigue and sandy soil, a little bit of blueberry juice, light crunchy notes of cranberries and a hint of fresh blackcurrants. The wine feels crunchy and maybe a bit dull on the palate with a light body and dry, somewhat understated flavors of tart lingonberries, some metallic tones, a little bit of crunchy crowberry, light appley tones, a candied hint of estery primary fruit and a sweeter touch of blueberry juice. The wine is high in acidity with quite supple and mellow tannins. The finish is dry and crunchy with a somewhat short aftertaste of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some blueberry tones, a little bit of dusty earth and garrigue, light crunchy nuances of crowberries, a primary hint of candied red fruit and a touch of apple.
A very simple, primary and a bit understated red wine without much depth or character. The wine is so much dominated by candied primary fruit flavors that this feels more like a tank sample taken midway through fermentation. Apart from those estery fruit flavors, the inherent fruit flavors of the wine itself feel quite understated and linear, having a somewhat unripe, appley quality to them. I must admit I'm not particularly impressed by this.
(80 points) -
2018 Weingut Keller SpÀtburgunder Trocken 'S' - Germany, Rheinhessen (25.2.2023)
12,5% alcohol, 6,1 g/l acidity. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent dark cherry red color. The nose feels somewhat sweet-toned and moderately oaky with aromas of ripe cherries, some raspberry jam tones, a little bit of sweet, toasty oak spice, light notes of toffee, a hint of boysenberries and a touch of coffee grounds. The wine feels dry, quite firm and rather ripe on the palate with a medium body and pretty dark-toned flavors of juicy dark fruits and wild strawberry notes, some tart lingonberry nuances, a little bit of caramel and sweet, toasty oak spice, light peppery tones, a hint of meaty umami with roasted game overtones and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine is high in acidity with firm yet ripe medium tannins. The finish is dry, toasty and gently grippy with a long aftertaste of toasted oak spice and extracted woody bitterness, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light peppery nuances, a sweeter hint of wizened cherries and a touch of raspberry juice.
A firm and balanced but also quite ripe SpĂ€tburgunder - however, even though the warm 2018 vintage does show in the sweet, dark-toned fruit flavors, the wine isn't soft or flabby in any way, but instead showing good sense of structure and relatively sleek body. Thanks to the rather impactful oak character, I'd let the wine age for a good handful of years more, as at the moment the fruit flavors feel a bit muddled and overwhelmed by all that wood. Hopefully another 7 to 10 years of aging would integrate some of that toasty oak character and let the vibrant SpĂ€tburgunder fruit take more of the lead role. Although a good wine in its own right, this didn't immediately win me over. Feels somewhat pricey for the quality at 47,99âŹ.
(88 points) -
2011 J.L. Vergnon Champagne Grand Cru Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Hautes Mottes - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (25.2.2023)
100% Chardonnay from Les Hautes Mottes, a parcel in Le Mesnil sur Oger. Vinified and aged in 300-liter oak barrels. Bottled in July 2012. Aged sur lattes for six years. 12% alcohol, dosage 0 g/l. Tasted blind.
Intense and still quite youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels ripe, broad and quite concentrated with somewhat creamy aromas of juicy tropical fruits, some apple jam, a little bit of zesty citrus fruit, light creamy oak tones and an autolytic hint of oat biscuits. The wine feels crisp, youthful and acid-driven on the palate with a medium body and bone-dry flavors of Granny Smith apple and sharp lemony tones, some leesy creaminess, a little bit of apple jam, light autolytic nutty tones, a hint of toasty oak spice and an evolved touch of bruised apple. The bracing acidity is only further emphasized by the tiny yet very crisp, brisk and quite persistent mousse - yet the wine doesn't come across as too lean, austere or aggressively sharp. The finish is ripe and broad, yet very zippy and acid-driven at the same time with a long, dry aftertaste of toasty autolysis, some creamy custard notes from the oak aging, a little bit of zesty lemon, light sweeter nuances of apple jam, a hint of vanilla and a touch of stony minerality.
A brisk, focused and wonderfully complex Blanc de Blancs. I was enormously surprised to learn that this wine came from the dreaded 2011 vintage - it didn't show any of the vegetal green notes I've found in so many 2011 Champagnes. I guess it all boils down to this wine being a Blanc de Blancs, as I've understood that Pinot Noir fared much worse in that year. This was a terrific effort, showing superb intensity, depth of flavor and nuance. The oak is still somewhat to the fore, but not excessively so, and I guess with a little bit of additional aging it will blend perfectly with the creamy and toasty nuances. The overall feel was still very youthful for a wine almost 12 years old and I can see this aging and improving for years more - maybe even decades. Easily some of the best 2011 Champagnes I've tasted. Truly classy stuff.
(93 points) -
2020 Domaine de L'Octavin Hip Hip J... Savagnin - France, Vin de France (25.2.2023)
The label doesn't really say the vintage or the variety, but the lot number "LSV press d.2020" tells which iteration of Hip Hip J... this is: a 100% organically farmed Savagnin from Jura, fermented spontaneously in whole bunches, ie. semi-carbonic maceration. Pressed after two months of skin contact and aged in old oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful and somewhat hazy yellow-green color. Pretty wild, rather volatile and somewhat funky nose with aromas of ripe yellow fruits, some nashi pear, a little bit of cantaloupe, light lifted notes of nail polish VA, a hint of mosquito coil smoke, a perfumed touch of fragrant floral character and a whiff of waxy sauvage funk. Although the nose is somewhat natty, it is still clean and vibrant enough to be enjoyable. The wine feels ripe, concentrated and pretty wild on the palate with a medium body and intense, somewhat volatile flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and sweet white fruits, some lifted notes of nail polish, a little bit of cantaloupe, light steely mineral tones, a hint of sharp acetic VA and a touch of tangy salinity. The high acidity keeps the wine pretty fresh and structured. The finish is ripe, dry and concentrated with rather wild flavors of honeydew melon and apricot, some salinity, a little bit of fresh white peach, light stony mineral notes, a hint of crunchy Fuji apple and a sharp touch of acetic VA.
First, as a disclaimer, I must say I probably have never tasted an Octavin wine I enjoyed. Before this, that is. Although this wine wasn't really in my wheelhouse with its rather pronounced notes of volatile acidity, which seemed to drown out some of the finer nuances of the fruit department, the wine wasn't excessively acetic, too weird, badly funky or - most importantly - mousy in any way. The biggest problem with the Octavin wines has been mousiness, as probably more than 50% of the wines I've tasted have been more or less mousy. This wine, on the other hand, was relatively clean and actually quite enjoyable for Octavin! I'm still not enamored with the style, but at least this was completely drinkable, so a small win, I guess.
(89 points) -
1996 ChĂąteau Reynon Cadillac - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Cadillac (25.2.2023)
ChĂąteau Reynon produces tiny amounts of sweet Cadillac only in optimal vintages where the grapes are healthy and show optimal ripeness close to the harvest and the weather seems optimal for the development of noble rot. This 1996 is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (60%) and SĂ©millon (40%) harvested in four successive tries at 20% potential alcohol. Aged in oak barriques. 14% alcohol, residual sugar approx. 100 g/l. Total production 14 barriques.
Deep, evolved and quite dark caramel-brown color. The nose feels sweet, evolved and very attractive with complex aromas of maple syrup, prunes, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of Sultana raisins, light volatile notes of nail polish, a hint of caramel, a touch of bruised apple and a whiff of balsamico. The wine feels sweet, silky and slightly sticky on the palate with a full body and rich, slightly spicy flavors of prunes and bruised apples, some maple syrup tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light dried-fruit notes of raisins and dried dates, a hint of ginger syrup and a touch of fragrant exotic spices. The acidity feels moderately high, but the mouthfeel remains still pretty viscous, thanks to the residual sugar and concentration brought by bottle age. The slightly sticky finish is rich, complex and sweet-savory with a lengthy aftertaste of syrupy richness, developed notes of meaty umami, some nutty notes of oxidation, a little bit of Sultana raisins, light volatile notes of balsamico and nail polish, a hint of maple syrup and a touch of dried apricots.
A tasty and harmonious Cadillac at its peak. Stylistically more or less identical to a similarly evolved Sauternes - even if the portion of Sauvignon Blanc is a bit higher than in most Sauternais wines. Showing a good combination of fruit, concentration, depth of flavor and tertiary complexity. Most likely the wine won't improve with additional aging, but will stay at this level for a good number of years more. Terrific stuff, a steal at 8,27⏠for a half-liter bottle.
(93 points)
Posted from CellarTracker