I hope the title tells all necessary information!
I myself threw one Santorini tasting some years ago after I visited the island and now a friend visited Santorini this summer, bringing a bunch of superb wines with him. This tasting was a combination of some of his earlier purchases and stuff he brought with him.
It was fun to taste these Art Space wines again; I hadn’t seen any Art Space bottles since my visit to the winery in 2016 and I had started to wonder whether these idiosyncratic wines were really as great as I remembered, or if me just being there, on a long-awaited summer vacation and all, had impacted my judgment while tasting the wines. Well, apparently not - these wines were still as fantastic as they were back then!
We also had one old Rioja Blanco as a blind extra while we were waiting our host to finish the arrangements and the last attendees to arrive.
-
1998 Bodegas Campillo Rioja Blanco Fermentado en Barrica - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja (16.8.2022)
11,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Evolved, moderately deep straw-yellow color. Evolved, toasty nose with aromas of chopped nuts, hay, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of sorrel, light smoky notes, a sharp hint of rancio and a touch of cooked cream. The nose feels very aged but not too old. The wine is dry, crisp and very evolved on the palate with a surprisingly light body and tertiary flavors of oxidative nuttiness, some creamy oak tones, a little bit aldehydic salinity and rancio, light smoky nuances, a hint of hay and a touch of lemony citrus fruits. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine, even if it otherwise quite old and tertiary. The finish is crisp, long and crunchy with tertiary flavors of bruised apple, some smoky tones, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light salty notes of rancio, a hint of savory old wood and a touch of creaminess.
An old and tertiary Rioja Blanco that is already somewhat past its peak, yet still quite enjoyable for such an old white. Overall the wine feels like it isn't built to age this long, but despite its somewhat oxidative rancio notes, it is still nicely fresh, structured and precise with still somewhat fruity nuances. No need to age this one bit further, but no need to pour this down the drain either - only high time to drink up anything that remains.
(87 points) -
2019 Gavalas Winery Voudomato Rosé - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
100% Voudomato macerated for approximately 8 hours. 13% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep seared salmon color. Ripe, youthful and slightly reductive nose with somewhat reticent aromas of flint smoke, some rubbery notes, a little bit of ripe tomato, light strawberry tones, a hint of peach and touch of crunchy red forest fruits. The wine is dry, crunchy and somewhat restrained with a light-to-medium body and slightly reductive flavors of stony minerality, some flint smoke, a little bit of fresh red apple and whitecurrant, light tart notes of cranberries and lemony citrus fruits, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of vague spicy character. Good high acidity. The finish is fresh, crunchy and quite acid-driven with somewhat closed flavors of strawberries and tart green apples, some lemony citrus tones, a little bit of crunchy redcurrant, light smoky tones and a rubbery hint of reduction.
A nice, fresh and balanced but also somewhat closed Santorini rosé. This wasn't funky, like the 2015 vintage I tasted at the winery, but instead slightly reduced, which might explain why the wine wasn't particularly expressive this time. I feel the wine should've been more expressive than it was, but the reduction kept the wine too understated; I wonder if the wine is really built to age, ie. if any further aging might help with the reduction? If opened now, the wine seems to call for some aeration as it really didn't manage to fully blow off its reduction during the time we were drinking it. Nice, but nothing truly memorable.
(89 points) -
2021 Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko Santorini Familia - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
The organically farmed grapes are sourced from the villages of Akrotiri, Megalochori, Pyrgos and Vourvoulos. Fermented spontaneously, then aged in stainless steel tanks. 14% alcohol.
Pale, almost colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels ripe, sweetly-fruited and slightly reductive yet still enjoyably expressive with aromas of juicy white peach, some swimming hall chlorine notes, a little bit of lemony citrus fruits, light rubbery tones, a salty hint of sea air and a touch of floral lift. The wine feels ripe, quite mineral and rather airy on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of wet rocks, light smoky notes of volcanic minerality, a hint of saline tang and a touch of apple peel bitterness. Although structured with high acidity, the wine feels a bit gentle for a Santorini Assyrtiko, lacking some of that power and focus I was expecting. The finish is dry, mineral and quite long with flavors of tangy salinity and lemony citrus fruits, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of crunchy Granny Smith apple and light nuances of smoky volcanic character.
A very nice, fresh and balanced Santorini Assyrtiko, but also one that feels like it is holding back a bit - while Santorini Assyrtikos are rarely if ever heavy or clumsy, they tend to be very powerful, quite full-bodied and packed with concentration, serving as a wonderful foil to the high acidity and piercing minerality. Well, here it feels like everything is toned down a bit. I like this wine a lot, but this didn't reach the freshness and intensity of the 2018 vintage nor did it feel particularly memorable in our Santorini tasting.
(90 points) -
2020 Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
Made with fruit sourced from different vineyards located around Santorini. Fermented and aged for 3 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks. 14,7% alcohol.
Very pale whitish-green color. Somewhat smoky and slightly reductive nose with aromas of fresh apples, some white peach, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of flinty smoke and a flatulent hint of reduction. The wine feels rich, sweetly-fruited and even slightly fat on the palate with a full body and quite concentrated flavors of intense lemony citrus fruits, some tangy saline notes, a little bit of white peach, light candied primary notes of white gummi bears and a hint of sweet yellow fruits. The mouthfeel is somewhat viscous and oily and the rather high alcohol lends it some obvious warmth as well. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine balanced and quite structured, but it feels surprisingly low for an Assyrtiko, making this wine feel quite soft, mellow and even a bit heavy in a Santorini tasting. The finish is rich, juicy and quite long with somewhat sweet-toned and slightly soft flavors of white peach, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of extracted waxy richness, light candied primary tones and a hint of alcohol warmth.
A very rich, fruity and even somewhat voluptuous Assyrtiko that shows those saline and lemony notes typical of Santorini, but is a bit lacking in freshness, zip and structure. While quite enjoyable on its own - although the high alcohol makes the wine feel a bit boozy at times - the lack of finesse, verve and freshness becomes quite obvious when you taste this wine along with other Santorini Assyrtikos. Compared to the focused and even slightly austere vintage 2015 that I tasted at the winery some years ago, this was something of a disappointment.
(85 points) -
2020 Artemis Karamolegos Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A blend of Assyrtiko (90%) with Aidani and Athiri (total 10%). The grapes are first crushed and cold-soaked, then fermented in stainless steel tanks and finally aged on the lees for at least five months in stainless steel. 14% alcohol.
Pale, almost colorless whitish-green color. The nose feels ripe, clean and quite youthful with aromas of sour lemon candies, some waxy tones, a little bit salty sea air, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of ripe golden apple and a candied primary touch of fruit jellies. The wine is ripe, dry-ish and very intense on the palate with a moderately full body and focused flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sappy herbal tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light crunchy notes of Granny Smith apple and apple peel bitterness, a candied hint of gummi bear-like primary fruit and a rubbery touch of reduction. The high acidity lends great sense of structure and almost electric intensity to the wine. The finish is dry sharp and tangy on the palate with flavors of salty minerality and tart lemony fruit, some sweeter notes of ripe white fruits, a little bit of sappy herbal character, light rubbery notes of reduction and a primary hint of fruit candies.
A nice, fresh and tasty Santorini white that feels a bit too young and thus slightly clumsy. The hallmark lemony freshness, acidity and saline minerality are all there, but the flavors seem a bit disjointed and there's also a little bit of that primary fermentation character that lends a somewhat distracting candied edge to the fruit, which doesn't really suit the fruit profile here. The difference between this vintage is the 2019 is very obvious - the wine that is only a year older has lost all its candied fermentation flavors, coming across as much more serious, more balanced and just simply more impressive. It's obvious there's a lot of potential here, but at the moment the wine feels too young for its own good - let it wait for a few years more. Priced according to its quality at approx. 25€.
(89 points) -
2019 Artemis Karamolegos Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A blend of Assyrtiko (90%) with Aidani and Athiri (total 10%). The grapes are first crushed and cold-soaked, then fermented in stainless steel tanks and finally aged on the lees for at least five months in stainless steel. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep lime-green color. Ripe, juicy and relatively rich nose with aromas of sweet Golden Delicious apple, some volcanic smoky notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light flinty nuances, a zesty hint of ripe lemony citrus fruits, a touch of peach and a whiff of concentrated, waxy character. The wine feels ripe yet firm and structured on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense flavors of crunchy whitecurrants and tart lemony notes, a little bit of stony minerality, light waxy tones, a hint of flinty smoke and a touch of tangy salinity. There's quite a bit of concentration here, lending a slightly viscous mouthfeel to the wine, but the bracing acidity keeps the wine effortlessly so bright, fresh and structured. The finish is dry, lively and crunchy with a lengthy aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light flinty mineral notes of smoky volcanic character, a hint of sulfuric reduction and an extracted touch of waxy richness.
A very impressively structured and classically built Santorini white. Normally I find regular Santorinis (ie. Assyrtiko-driven blends with Aidani and Athiri) a bit softer and less interesting than straight Santorini Assyrtikos, but this wine managed to avoid the typical pitfalls of Aidani and Athiri - the softer structure and sweeter, more anonymous fruit. This tasted more or less like a varietal Assyrtiko, but with added richness and viscosity from the "softer" varieties that did not dilute the structure or minerality in any way. The intensity, focus and sense of structure were much better here than in the 2020 vintage that was tasted next to this wine. Although drinking really well right now, I can see this wine improving for at least another 5 years, if not more. Good value at approx. 25€.
(91 points) -
2019 Artemis Karamolegos Nykteri Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A blend of Assyrtiko (90%), Aidani and Athiri (the two filling out the remaining 10%) from vineyards up to 100 years old. Fermented in in second-use 500-liter French oak barrels, aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 16 months before bottling. Bottle #2078 of total 6000 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Youthful, quite pale whitish-green color. Fresh yet sweetish and quite broad nose with aromas of zesty lemony citrus fruits and some ripe yellow fruits, a little bit of leesy richness, light creamy oak tones, a hint of savory spice and a mineral touch of wet rocks. The wine is dry, crisp and very focused on the palate with a firm medium body and intense and quite complex flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some leesy notes, a little bit of ripe yellow fruits, light stony mineral notes, a savory hint of woody spice and a touch of tangy salinity. The bracing acidity lends terrific intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is steely, crisp and very long with intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits and leesy richness, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light juicy notes of ripe stone fruits, a hint of savory, woody complexity and a touch of creaminess.
An excellent, very focused and concentrated Nykteri with lots of structure and almost electric energy. You can taste the wine has seen a little bit of wood, but the oak use here is very judicious and respects the fruit, letting the intense old-vine Assyrtiko qualities take the lead. The wine feels very tightly-knit at the moment, but it is nevertheless pretty accessible. However, the wine is mostly about future potential and I'd let the wine wait for at least a handful of years more before popping any bottles open. This is definitely built for the long haul. One of my favorite Nykteri wines year in year out and great value even at approx. 30€.
(93 points) -
2018 Artemis Karamolegos Nykteri Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A blend of Assyrtiko (90%), Aidani and Athiri (the two filling out the remaining 10%) from vineyards up to 100 years old. Fermented in in second-use 500-liter French oak barrels, aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 16 months before bottling. Bottle #1072 of total 3500 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Quite pale yellow-green color. Ripe, somewhat sweetly-fruited and slightly yellow-toned nose with aromas of beeswax, some ripe lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light apricot tones, a hint of stone dust and a touch of savory spice. The wine feels broad, waxy and slightly extracted on the palate with a moderately full body and rich yet bone-dry flavors of fresh peach, some sharp lemony notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light honeydew melon tones, mineral hints of steel and chalky bitterness and a fine touch of almost MSG-like umami. The high acidity lends good sense of firmness to the wine. The finish is firm, focused and slightly bitter with a lengthy and quite intense aftertaste of waxy extraction, some zesty notes of ripe lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of tangy salinity, light bitter nuances of chalk dust and grapefruit pith, a hint of honeydew melon and a savory touch of umami.
A rich, powerful and concentrated Nykteri that is all about very ripe and even slightly concentrated Assrytiko fruit, the oak influence being nothing more than a mere afterthought here. However, tasting this vintage next to 2019, it feels this wine shows a bit more ripeness and extraction in comparison, making it come across as slightly clumsier and more weighty. While showing similar levels of intensity and complexity, I favored the 2019 due to its better sense of freshness and delineation. However, both these wines were outstanding in quality, showing much more finesse, freshness and elegance than many other Santorini Nykteris. Solid value at approx. 30€.
(92 points) -
2020 Artemis Karamolegos Assyrtiko 34 Ancestral Vines - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
The fruit sourced from very old, centenarian vineyards. The fruit is first crushed and cold-soaked for some hours, then (partially) fermented spontaneously and finally aged for 8 months in stainless steel tanks (90%) and old oak barrels (10%). The "34" refers to the 34 centuries that Santorini has been inhabited after the volcano eruption in approximately 1620 BC. 14% alcohol.
Pale, rather neutral whitish-green color. The nose is a bit restrained with aromas of ripe white fruits and some primary grapey notes, a little bit of extracted waxy character, light mineral notes of wet stones, a floral hint of apple blossom and a touch of zesty lemony fruit. The wine is incredibly brisk, structured and electric on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and very intense flavors of tangy salinity, tart notes of lemony citrus fruits, some white peach tones, a little bit of grapey primary fruit, light sweet nuances of ripe yellow fruits, a hint of grapefruity bitterness and a touch of creaminess. The tremendous acidity lends the wine immense amounts of focus and structure. The finish is crisp, powerful and slightly extracted with a firm, acid-driven aftertaste of meyer lemon and grapefruit, some fresh peachy tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light extracted notes of waxy richness and subtle bitterness and a primary hint of grapey fruit.
A brisk, focused and very high-strung old-vine Assyrtiko that is very impressive already now, but also comes across as a bit too tightly-wound at the moment. All the acidity and minerality are still very much to the fore and the fruit hasn't lost all of its primary fermentation aromas, lending a somewhat grapey feel to the flavors. There seems to be tons of potential here, but for current consumption the wine feels just too painfully young. A superb effort that might feel a storm of acidity now, but will definitely reward patient cellaring. Terrific value at approx. 35€.
(94 points) -
2020 Artemis Karamolegos Pyritis Mega Cuvee Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
Pyritis translates to "silica" - and Santorini's soils are 2/3 silica. The "Mega-Cuvée" means that the wine is a cuvée of wines made from the three oldest (some even over 120 yo) vineyards (two in Pyrgos and one in Megalochori). Fermented spontaneously and aged for 10 months in stainless steel. Bottle #8933. 14% alcohol.
The appearance is strikingly almost colorless, very neutral whitish-green. The nose feels youthful, somewhat sweetly-fruited and slightly primary with aromas of ripe pear, some concentrated waxy notes, a little bit of apple jam, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a candied hint of fruit jelly and a touch of smoky volcanic character. The wine is crisp, focused and very tightly-knit on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits and tangy salinity, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of grapefruit bitterness, light extracted waxy tones, a sharp hint of Granny Smith apple and a primary touch of ripe pear. The overall feel is concentrated, lending even a bit of oiliness to the mouthfeel, yet the high acidity manages to keep the wine effortlessly from coming across as heavy or clumsy, instead making it feel very precise and structured. The finish is lively, mineral and crisp yet not too lean or aggressive with quite long flavors of grapefruity citrus fruits, some tart Granny Smith notes, a little bit of sharp salty tang, light extracted waxy tones, a sweeter hint of ripe white fruit and a primary touch of pear drops.
A very powerful, intense and concentrated wine that is still super young and quite primary. Although the wine is very fresh and precise, not at all heavy, it still somewhat heavier and more concentrated than the 2020 Karamolegos 34 Ancestral Vines and 2019 Karamolegos Nykteri that were tasted alongside. This wine shows great potential, but it definitely calls for additional aging; the wine is more approachable now than the 34 Ancestral Vines, which called for further aging just to tone down the tightly-knit structure, so it's not for the structure the wine needs aging - it is the still very fruity and at times even a bit candied primary fruit character that is dominated by estery fermentation flavors, which is going to take a few more years before fading away and letting the pure Assyrtiko fruit take the lead. At the moment my score might be a bit on the conservative side, but most likely it will go up as the wine ages; however, tasting the wines side-by-side, I suspect I will always favor the 34 Ancestral Vines over this bottling - never mind how excellent they both may be! Perhaps slightly on the pricey side at approx. 45€, but not prohibitively so.
(92 points) -
2019 Artemis Karamolegos Assyrtiko Mystirio / 24 - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A skin-contact Santorini Assyrtiko macerated with the skins for 24 days, hence the name. Fermented spontaneously, vinified without sulfites, aged for 10 months on the lees, bottled with a small dose of sulfites and without fining or filtration. Bottle #1834 of total 2000 bottles. 14% alcohol.
Pale straw-yellow color with an amber core. Savory, somewhat restrained and a bit earthy nose with aromas of orange marmalade, some caramel tones, a little bit of beeswax, light resinous notes of phenolic spice, a smoky hint of volcanic character and a touch of ripe lemon. The wine feels savory, bone-dry and somewhat earthy on the palate with a medium body and slightly austere yet still quite harmonious flavors of resinous phenolic character, some earthy spices along with subtly peppery tones, a little bit of pithy pomelo, light caramel tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of extracted waxy character. The overall feel is very firm and sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and gently grippy tannins. The finish is savory, lively and slightly grippy with a quite acid-driven aftertaste of resinous phenolic character, some earthy tones, a little bit of lemony citrus fruit, light waxy tones, a hint of caramel and a sweeter touch of ripe red apple.
A very firm, savory and structured orange wine from the quite austere and unapologetic end of the spectrum. This is not a fun and easy little sipper, but instead a dead-serious, structure-driven effort where the emphasis is not on the ripe fruit, but minerality, savory spices and other non-fruit flavors. This wine really feels like it could use both some age and some air. Despite being more or less a natural wine, the wine is wonderfully pure, clean and precise with a chiseled, somewhat angular overall character that combines the intense minerality of Assyrtiko with the firmness and structure of an old-school Greek red. Let the wine wait at least a few more years, preferably much more. There seems to be a ton of potential waiting underneath all that cool, hard minerality. Solid value at approx. 35€.
(93 points) -
2019 Art Space - Antonis Argiros Assyrtiko Agios Aúgoustos / Saint August - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
100% organically farmed Assyrtiko made with grapes harvested in mid-August. The grapes are destemmed and then cold-soaked for a little while. The wine is made with only the free-run juice, ie. no press is used. Fermented spontaneously, aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks. 14,5% alcohol.
Youthful, pale yellow-green color. Fascinating, waxy and somewhat funky nose with aromas of ripe peach, bretty notes of leather and phenolic spice, a little bit of smoky volcanic character, light floral tones, a hint of lemon marmalade and a touch of leesy creaminess. The wine is focused, intense and somewhat funky on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of ripe nectarine and steely minerality, some leathery notes of bretty funk, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light sweet notes of apple jam, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of fresh peach. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness, structure and precision to the wine. The finish is long and quite complex with dry flavors of grapefruit and ripe lemon, some leathery notes of brett, a little bit of phenolic bitterness, light peachy tones, a sweet hint of apple jam and a savory touch of umami richness.
A fascinating, complex and positively unpolished Assyrtiko that is very unlike all the other Santorini whites. Art Space wines are very small-production wines made in a very hands-off fashion, and it really shows. However, fortunately, the high quality of the fruit shows as well! Even the wines that don't see any oak show richness and complexity young Assyrtikos rarely show otherwise - partly due to the slightly funky nature of Art Space wines - yet they don't really lack any of the freshness, minerality or lemony zip of a good Santorini Assyrtiko! Truly delicious stuff. These are consistently excellent wines and easily among the best of what Santorini has to offer - as long as you're willing to accept funk is not a flaw but a character!
(94 points) -
2021 Art Space - Antonis Argiros Assyrtiko Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
100% organic Assyrtiko fermented with natural yeasts, unfiltered. I have no idea what are the key differences between this wine and St. August Assyrtiko, as - AFAIK - both are 100% Assyrtiko wines fermented and aged in stainless steel. 14,5% alcohol.
Quite pale and colorless, very neutral yellow-green color. The nose feels surprisingly clean for an Art Space wine, not showing any of the typical funky notes but instead very youthful and quite primary notes of grapey fruit and ripe pear, some crunchy red apple tones, a little bit of greengage, light floral notes of apple blossom, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of marmaladey primary fruit. The wine feels ripe, broad and moderately full-bodied on the palate with flavors of ripe white peach, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of sweet greengage, light saline mineral notes, a hint of waxy funk and a primary touch of grapey fruit. The rather high acidity lends good sense of structure and balance to the wine. The finish is dry, firm and quite ripe with broad, concentrated and somewhat primary flavors of ripe pear, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of greengage, light estery notes of gummi bear candies, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of waxy funk.
A firm, balanced and quite structured Assyrtiko that is just way too young. You can taste there is quality stuff hiding here, but it is quite masked by the sweet, candied primary flavors of pear and gummi bear candies, making the wine feel a bit too rich and voluptuous. At the moment it is quite hard to assess where this wine is going, but you can taste the minerality and complexity lingering underneath the sweeter nuances. My score might be on a bit conservative side at the moment, but I have no doubts this wine will age just nicely and improve greatly once it gets past its awkward primary phase. Definitely something very different among the normally so clean and lemony Santorini Assyrtikos.
(91 points) -
2021 Art Space - Antonis Argiros Assyrtiko-Aidani - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades (16.8.2022)
A blend of organically farmed Assyrtiko and Aidani. Fermented spontaneously, aged in stainless steel. 14,5% alcohol.
Pale, youthful yellow-green color. Youthful and quite primary nose with aromas of lemon and pear drops, some ripe pomelo tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light spicy notes of white pepper, a hint of apple jam and a touch of exotic fruits. The wine feels broad, full-bodied and somewhat tropical with flavors of sweet peachy fruit, some crunchy notes of fresh nectarine and red gooseberries, a little bit of extracted bitterness, light stony mineral notes, a savory hint of MSG-like umami and a touch of tangy salinity. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine in balance, but the overall feel is a bit on the soft and round side. The finish feels ripe, youthful and quite primary with somewhat sweetish flavors of juicy greengage, some tangy mineral notes of salinity, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light crunchy notes of gooseberries, a savory hint of umami and a pomelo-driven touch of zesty citrus fruits.
A nice, balanced and drinkable white that lacks the freshness and minerality typical of Santorini and the fascinating complexity that is the hallmark of Art Space wines. This is an enjoyable effort in its own right, but nothing particularly interesting. However, the wine is still super-youthful and pretty much dominated by the primary fruit flavors, so perhaps with some aging the wine might lose some of that sweet candied character and become something more balanced and fresh?
(89 points) -
2020 Art Space - Antonis Argiros Aidani - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades (16.8.2022)
100% organically farmed Aidani, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, bottled unfiltered. 13,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. Youthful, still somewhat primary nose with aromas of pear and ripe greengage, some bretty notes of leathery funk, a little bit of pineapple and nectarine, light leesy notes of creaminess, a herby hint of basil and a perfumed, floral touch of aromatized hand soap. The wine feels ripe, somewhat concentrated and slightly wild with a moderately full body and quite complex flavors of sweet greengage and fresh pineapple, some funky notes of leather and farmhouse, a little bit of phenolic spice, light mineral notes of wet rocks and tangy salinity, a sweet hint of juicy nectarine and a touch of floral spice. The rather high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance and lends it some good sense of structure. The finish is long with complex flavors of perfumed Muscat-like floral tones, some sweet notes of nectarine, a little bit of funky leather, light saline mineral notes, a hint of phenolic spice and a touch of greengage.
A very distinctive and characterful Aidani that feels so much more complete than the normally rather soft, simple and fruit-driven Aidani wines of Santorini. While this wine feels softer, fruitier and weightier than an Assyrtiko, this is still more characterful, more concentrated and more structured than you'd expect for an Aidani. With its somewhat funky overall character and distinctive - at times even Muscat-like - floral tones, it might not be the most typical Aidani out there, but still I'd say this is probably the best varietal Aidani I know. Expressive and full of personality. Terrific value at approx. 24€.
(92 points) -
2014 Art Space - Antonis Argiros Assyrtiko Nychteri - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A 100% organically farmed Assyrtiko, fermented with natural yeasts, aged partially in small oak barrels, bottled unfiltered. 14,5% alcohol.
Medium-deep straw-yellow color. Ripe, somewhat sweet-toned nose with complex aromas of pineapple, some nutty tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light caramel tones, developed hints of bruised apple, a bretty touch of leather and farmhouse funk and a whiff of hay. The wine feels waxy, concentrated and even somewhat viscous on the palate with a full body and moderately evolved flavors of nutty complexity and leathery funk, some extracted notes of bitter spices, a little bit of stony minerality, light evolved nuances of bruised apple and caramel, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of creamy oak. Despite its somewhat substantial feel, the wine is high in acidity and comes across as surprisingly fresh, structured and precise despite its size and weight. The finish is dry, long and savory with a complex aftertaste of stony minerality and extracted bitter character, some leathery notes, a little bit of ripe pineapple, light nutty tones, a hint of waxy funk and a touch of saline minerality. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the aftertaste.
A fascinating, somewhat aged Assyrtiko with a lot of weight, depth and complexity - yet not one bit compromised in the structure department. The wine is as fresh, mineral and zippy as an Assyrtiko should be; it just has some extra weight, richness and complexity from the barrel aging and extra age. Despite being aged in barrel, the wine shows very little to no obvious oak influence, thanks to the aging which has given the oakier nuances to integrate really well with the fruit. Or what is left of it - although Assyrtiko isn't particularly "fruity" a variety to begin with, this wine shows surprisingly little fruit character. However, that is not to say the wine would be lacking in flavor - it's just full of savory non-fruit flavors ranging from mineral to funky to tertiary. Definitely a very unique and thoroughly captivating wine that is in a great spot now, but might continue to improve even further from here! Highly recommended.
(94 points) -
2007 Canava Roussos Caldera - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
Mainly Mandilaria with a tiny bit of Assyrtiko in the blend. Aged for a year in oak barrels. 12,8% alcohol.
Deep, luminous and only slightly translucent maroon color with a somewhat tertiary mahogany-brown hue. The nose feels evolved and somewhat tertiary with complex aromas reminiscent of an aged Bordeaux; there are notes of wizened cherries and blackcurrants, old leather, some raisiny tones, a little bit of sous bois, light pruney nuances, a lifted hint of minty greenness, an oxidative touch of syrupy richness and a whiff of mocha coffee. The wine is ripe, somewhat evolved and subtly oxidative on the palate with a moderately full body and complex flavors of wizened blackcurrants and crunchy chokeberries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light raisiny nuances, a hint of minty lift and an autumnal touch of damp leaves. The high acidity and still rather grippy tannins make the wine feel quite firm, structured and sinewy. The finish is dry, grippy and complex with a lengthy aftertaste of wizened blackcurrants and prunes, some raisiny tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness and astringent chokeberry, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a green hint of lifted minty character and a touch of forest floor.
Just like three years ago, this wine seemed like a mature Bordeaux with a lot of lovely tertiary complexity - yet with still a very firm and sinewy structure. Not really showing any obvious Mandilaria characteristics any more, this drinks more like a classic old world red with good emphasis on structure and savory complexity. Truly a "volcanic Bordeaux". Although the structure could use a bit more aging to soften it, fruit-wise this wine seems to be peaking now. Drink or keep for some more years. Excellent stuff and a terrific purchase at approx. 20€.
(93 points) -
2003 Canava Roussos Caldera - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
Mainly Mandilaria with a tiny bit of Assyrtiko in the blend. Aged for a year in oak barrels. 12,2% alcohol.
Luminous, somewhat translucent maroon color with a slightly tertiary brick-orange hue. The attractive nose feels sweet-toned and rather evolved with complex aromas of wizened dark berries, some oxidative notes of caramel, a little bit of sweet, toasty oak spice, light balsamic tones, a hint of prunes and a somewhat Porty touch of jammy blackberries. The wine feels ripe, juicy and rather evolved on the palate with a medium body and dry, complex flavors of soft strawberries and raisiny dark fruit, some sweet cherry tones, a little bit of evolved balsamic character and caramel tones, light perfumed floral nuances, a dark-toned hint of toasty wood spice and a touch of minty lift. The wine feels rather sinewy and tightly-knit with its high acidity and still rather firm and grippy tannins, but the age has given the wine a rich, slightly syrupy texture. The finsih is dry, grippy and quite evolved with persistent, complex flavors of syrupy richness and Tawny Port-like caramel, some balsamic tones, a little bit of old leather, light woody tones, a hint of wizened dark berries and a touch of game.
A beautiful, complex and wonderfully evolved red Santorini. Unlike the 2007 vintage, which has a distinctively Bordeaux-like feel to it, this wine didn't remind me one bit of old Bordeaux. Instead it reminded me more of some older, more tertiary Spanish wines - like Viña Tondonia Reserva at its peak. A very singular and thoroughly delicious effort. I'm happy this bottle was in much better condition than the bottle I bought six years ago, which was badly over the hill already - although I paid only 14€ for that bottle, whereas this bottle cost 45€! It's quite absurd how the wine's price has tripled in just six years, but since the wine was in great shape this time, I guess this wine was still a better purchase at triple price! Heh.
(93 points) -
NV Canava Roussos Nama - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
The "holy communion wine" of Canava Roussos. A blend of Aidani, Assyrtiko, Athiri, Mandilaria and Mavrathiro, all sun-dried for 15 days after the harvest, then vinified together. 10% alcohol. There's no vintage designation in the label, just lot lumber "L1904".
Youthful, fully opaque blackish-red color with a purplish hue. The nose feels very sweet, rich and quite opulent with aromas that feel both evolved and youthful; there are rich notes of crème de cassis and primary grapey fruit, counterpointed by evolved raisiny tones and slightly oxidative notes of syrupy molasses, all these accentuated by slightly lifted nuances of ethery VA and a hint of blueberry jam. Overall the nose feels like partially fermented grape must made with raisins - and in a good way! The wine feels sweet, somewhat thick and slightly sticky without coming across as particularly heavy in any way. The wine is only medium in body and there are intense yet somewhat linear flavors of blackcurrant juice concentrate, some primary grapey tones, a little bit of raisiny fruit, light pruney tones, an oxidative hint of syrupy character and a touch of blueberry jam. The medium-plus acidity keeps the wine somewhat in balance, but doesn't really lend much freshness or structure to the wine, whereas the gently grippy tannins bring in some needed firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is sweet, slightly sticky and somewhat primary with a long, soft aftertaste of grape juice and blueberry jam, some blackcurrant marmalade tones, a little bit of raisiny fruit, light syrupy tones and an ethery hint of VA.
A fun, positively simple and tasty little late harvest wine. Although still not particularly complex, this wine was much better than the more evolved and even a bit tired bottle we tasted earlier this year. This wine tastes quite like unfermented grape must and therein lies its charm - with age this wine turns somewhat duller and more raisiny, losing those grapey and jammy primary notes that work surprisingly well with this style of sweet yet surprisingly light and airy kind of dessert wine. Although not a grand vin in any way, this was fun, good and thoroughly enjoyable stuff.
(86 points) -
2010 Artemis Karamolegos Vinsanto 12 Years Aged Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
The wine is made from Assyrtiko (85%) with Aidani filling out the remainder. The grapes are sun-dried for 9 to 14 days, after which the wine is aged for 12 years in old barriques and 500-liter demi-muids. 11% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and almost fully opaque syrupy-brown color; the wine looks quite thick and viscous as it swirls around, staining the glass as it goes. The nose feels very sweet, very intense and quite heavily volatile with concentrated aromas of syrupy richness, somewhat pronounced ethery notes of VA, a little bit of burnt sugar, light evolved notes of mushroomy funk, a vinegary hint of balsamico and a touch of oxidative nuttiness. The wine feels very concentrated, noticeably sweet and rather volatile on the palate with a full body and really intense flavors of caramel and syrupy molasses, some pruney and raisiny tones, a little bit of ethery VA, light Christmas-y nuances of cinnamon and gingerbread, acetic hints of balsamico and even some vinegar and a touch of apple jam. The wine feels viscous, sticky and subtly grippy, but the bright and zippy acidity lends it good amount of freshness and structure. The finish is very sweet, sticky and remarkably long with very intense and persistent flavors of syrupy molasses and raisins, some apple jam, light pruney notes, a little bit of cinnamon, a lifted hint of ethery VA and a touch of balsamic richness.
A remarkably intense, concentrated and powerful Vinsanto that is a bit too heavily volatile - something not that uncommon among Vinsantos that are aged for very long periods. This is not particularly a flaw, just one style of wine in a larger stylistic spectrum - some producers make very rich but quite fruity and vibrant Vinsantos that are not aged for that long, whereas the Vinsantos aged for longer tend to be either very concentrated - almost like dessert wine reduction - but also often quite volatile (probably wines aged more oxidatively, not topped off) whereas other older wines don't get that concentrated nor volatile, but represent a smokier, more roasted stylistic spectrum with often quite pronounced coffee tones. The 2007 Karamolegos Vinsanto I tasted at the winery some years ago was definitely fruitier, less concentrated and more modern with a somewhat noticeable oak influence, whereas this wine was definitely more old-school with tons of power and concentration, but the rather heavy VA dominating the wine. Although the wine is impressive in its own right with its exceptional power, concentration and intensity, the rather heavy VA distracts from the pleasure - I wish the wine showed less volatile action, even if it meant the wine turned out to be less concentrated and powerful. I do enjoy Vinsantos that show some VA, but this was a bit too much for me.
(89 points) -
2005 Art Space - Antonis Argiros Vinsanto - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (16.8.2022)
A blend of organically farmed Assyrtiko (90-95%), the remainder rounded out with Aidani and Athiri (5-10%). The grapes are sun-dried for 8-14 days, after which they are pressed. The wine is slowly fermented and aged for a minimum of 3 years (and up to 20 years in some vintages) in old oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. 9,3% alcohol.
Luminous, clear and moderately deep brick-orange color. The nose feels sweet and wonderfully nuanced with attractive aromas of caramel, some dried red fruits, a little bit of maple syrup, light raisiny tones, a nutty hint of rancio, a touch of vanilla oak and a whiff of lemon zest. The wine feels sweet, sticky and remarkably powerful on the palate with a light-to-medium body and very intense flavors of maple syrupy and Sultana raisins, some peanut butter, a little bit of dried dates, light oxidative notes of caramel and nutty rancio, an Amontillado-like hint of salty tang and a touch of dark, pruney fruit. The bright, racy acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine, making it feel relatively light on the palate despite all its residual sugar. The finish is sweet, fresh and somewhat sticky with intense and very persistent flavors of maple syrup and dried dates, some raisiny Sultana tones, a little bit of nutty rancio, light caramel tones, a hint of dried figs and a touch of apple jam.
A beautiful, remarkably fresh and wonderfully clean Vinsanto that didn't come across as excessively volatile or too oxidative. Compared to the bottle I tasted at the winery six years ago, this wine seemed to be much more focused and vibrant in taste. This was full of freshness, intensity and complex fruit, whereas the wine I had earlier seemed a bit more evolved and slightly lacking in nuance. I wonder if the bottle we tasted at the winery had been kept open for much longer before we got to taste it? At least this was all about purity, focus and vibrancy and the bottle was opened just an hour or two before we tasted it. Although maybe not at the level of the best Santorini Vinsantos, this is still just great, wonderfully complex stuff.
(93 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
