Figure this one may be interesting to some people here…
Background: A much discussed vintage and a producer that has been very present in that conversation regarding the “greenie meanies” their origin and eventual resolution, or not.
This one is personal for me. I really got into Denis Bachelet’s wine a few years prior, bought some 2008, 2009, 2010 and by the 2011 release both made enough money and had worked up enough of a rep to buy a serious allocation. I liked what I initially tasted as “classic” tart red fruited Burgundy and bought “a lot”, especially on the top end. Over the years I tasted Bourgogne Rouge, Cote de Nuits Villages, a few Gevreys and honestly didn’t like them very much. The green, bitter pyrazine character was overwhelming and I seriously questioned my decision. I hadn’t tasted a bottle before this one in 2-3 years probably.
Tasting note: Color is still deep, showing no signs of oxidation. The nose is pretty forward, pretty and floral with fruit notes more of cherry and pomegranate. There’s definitely a cool, herbal streak, lightly liquorice-toned, like spanish chervil or fennel seed.
Palate too is richer, smoother than I remember. Here the fruit feels tarter: to my Swedish palate, like lingonberries (which I like in Burgundies - Americans, think of a deeper-flavored cranberry with some tannin). There’s none of the drying character I remember, nor overly high acidity. In the aftertaste, that spanish chervil-like herbal note remains, but I quite like it - it’s refreshing and reminds me of classic, “stemmy” Burgundy like old De Montille.
Conclusion: I’m going to hang on to these. While I definitely have been disappointed by some of the lesser wines from this estate in this vintage, there seems to be something here. Either the pyrazines are oxidizing/integrating into the profile of the wines or there’s just a level at which the wines can carry it. I may open a Charmes soon and see how that’s doing, because this was pretty convincing.
Curious to hear if others have any recent takes on this or other 2011s from Domaine Bachelet or other Burgundies you’d written off because of green tones?