A vertical tasting from last fall. We had a couple of extra white Bordeaux in addition to the Estournels, too - they just didn’t make it to the lineup photo.
Unfortunately the 2002 was a bit off. I’ve had that vintage once before and it was so much better back then.
Unsurprisingly, the 2000 was still super young. However, stylistically it wasn’t really in my wheelhouse: the vintages from 1985 to 1996 were still quite classical in style, whereas the 1998 seemed to have taken a step towards modernity and the 2000 was completely unlike the wines older than 1998! The fruit profile was much sweeter and darker-toned there and the oak influence was more in-your-face compared to the older bottles.
I can imagine some of this might have to do with age - most likely oak will slowly integrate with the fruit as the wine ages. Yet still, I’d argue that the overall winemaking must’ve changed quite noticeably between 1996 and 2000, because they didn’t really seem like they were the same wine, only a few years apart.
My favorites of the evening were the 1985, 1986 and 1996 - in no particular order - followed closely by the lovely 1990. All outstanding wines in any way.
- 2009 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (10.9.2023)
Typically a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (80%) and Sémillon (20%). MLF blocked. Aged for 10-12 months in French oak barriques (1/3 new).
Pale but also quite intense golden yellow with faint lime-green highlights. The nose feels rich and expressive with sweet-toned aromas of exotic fruits and sweet creamy oak notes, some vanilla nuances, a little bit of mango and greengage, light buttery tones, a hint of lemongrass and a touch of ripe golden currant. The wine feels dry yet ripe and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a moderately full body and quite intense flavors of ripe orange or pomelo-driven citrus fruits, some creamy and toasty oak tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light sweeter nuances of greengage and tropical fruits, a hint of vanilla and a touch of ripe Granny Smith apple. The mouthfeel is textural and slightly viscous, but the quite high acidity lends good sense of balance and freshness to the wine. The finish is long, firm and pretty acid-driven with a dry aftertaste of creamy oak, some lemon marmalade, light tart notes of passion fruit, a little bit of woody oak spice, a hint of vanilla and a touch of lemongrass.
This ripe Bordeaux Blanc felt still pretty big and surprisingly oaky for a 14-yo white wine, but even though I'm not a big fan of heavily oaked wines, I admit this wine showed enough depth, intensity and structure to come across as pretty impressive. The overall feel is a bit too sweet and oak-driven for my preference, but seeing how surprisingly youthful and vibrant the wine was at 14 years of age, I'm pretty convinced this wine will continue to age just fine, hopefully integrating some of that oak in the process. Most likely this wine needs at least 5-10 years to reach its plateau of maturity - possibly even more! Despite its glossy, somewhat oak-heavy leanings, this is a surprisingly nice Bordeaux Blanc with lots of upside.
(93 points) - 2005 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (10.9.2023)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and Sémillon (15%). Fermented and aged for 18 months in oak barriques (35% new). Bottled in June 2007. 13% alcohol.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels complex, quite evolved and even very slightly oxidative with aromas of roasted nuts and caramel, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of ripe citrus fruits, light beeswax tones, a hint of burnt sugar and a touch of bruised apple. The wine feels evolved, complex and subtly oxidative on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of walnuts and woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of bruised apple, light pithy grapefruit bitterness, a hint of ripe lemony citrus fruits and a touch of woolly lanolin. The acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance, lending good sense of freshness and some sense of structure to the wine. The finish is long, evolved and slightly oxidative with a nuanced aftertaste of chopped walnuts, some bruised apple, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of ripe citrus fruits, a hint of browned butter and a touch of stony minerality.
A sophisticated, balanced and quite evolved Bordeaux Blanc at its peak. The wine is not past its peak yet, but the oxidative tones are starting to be present and it feels obvious that the wine is not going to benefit from any further aging. The overall feel was somewhat more aged and tertiary compared to the 2004 vintage I had tasted before and noticeably older compared to the 2008 and 2010 vintages. We tasted this wine next to the 2009 Haut-Bergey Blanc and while the overall style here was less oaky and more classically styled, this wine didn't manage to reach the freshness and intensity of that 2009 Haut-Bergey. All in all, this was a fine and balanced Chevalier, but it hasn't reached the level of the best Chevalier Blancs I've tasted, and - unless we had a prematurely evolved bottle - probably never will.
(91 points) - 2002 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (38%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Petit Verdot (1%). 13,5% alcohol.
Dense, fully opaque blackish-red color with a faint, evolved pomegranate color. The dark-toned nose feels slightly evolved and subtly sweetish with aromas of dark plummy fruit, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of ripe blackcurrant, a light Fino Sherry-like streak of aldehydic greenness and a hint of pruney dark fruit. The wine feels ripe, quite silky and pretty open-knit on the palate with a moderately full body and quite savory flavors of juicy dark plum and meaty umami, some wizened dark berries, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a brambly hint of black raspberries and a faint aldehydic touch of green almonds or green apple slices. The structure relies a bit more on the high acidity than on the somewhat resolved yet still moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is long, savory and somewhat grippy with a dry, slightly aldehydic aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and savory meaty character, some brambly notes of black raspberries, a little bit of toasty mocha oak, light woody nuances of pencil shavings, a juicy hint of dark plummy fruit and a touch of aldehydic greenness.
I've had this vintage once before, and back then it was a very lovely and serious effort. Had it not been suffering from a faint touch of acetaldehyde, which lent a vague green-toned note of sorrel or green almond to the flavors, this probably would've been better than the 2000 vintage, which felt a bit bigger and more polished in comparison. However, the aldehydic greenness took its toll on the wine and while you could taste the finesse and complexity, this bottle was a bit of a let-down. It was still an enjoyable wine, but knowing how good this vintage can (and should) be, this vintage turned out the be the most disappointing bottle in our 2002-1985 vertical of Cos d'Estournel, unfortunately.
(88 points) - 2001 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) and Merlot (45%). 13% alcohol.
Dark, almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a subtly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels somewhat sweetish and a bit glossy with rich, layered aromas of ripe dark plums, juicy blackcurrants and blueberry jam, some toasty oak notes of mocha and vanilla, a little bit of roasted bell pepper, light meaty nuances of prosciutto or iberico ham, a woody hint of pencil shavings, a touch of sweet pipe tobacco and a floral whiff of violets. The wine feels quite dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and intense, juicy flavors of ripe dark berries and blackcurrant juice, some tobacco, light woody notes of cedar and toasty oak spice, a little bit of meaty umami, a brambly hint of blackberries and a touch of old wood. The structure relies mostly on the surprisingly high acidity as the supple medium tannins feel pretty light and gentle. The harmonious finish is long, dry and silky with supple, resolved tannins and a layered aftertaste of blackcurrants and blackberries, some wizened dark plums, a little bit of meaty umami, light woody notes of pencil shavings, hints of tobacco and old leather and a ferrous touch of blood.
Compared to the 1990's Cos wines we tasted in the same tasting, the style here is darker-toned, somewhat sweeter and more glossy and quite similar to the 2000 vintage. The main differences were that the 2000 Cos was both slightly more youthful and more muscular with a rather firm tannic backbone. However, I preferred the slightly fresher, leaner and more nuanced style of this 2001 a bit more - the 2000 was maybe a bit too modern for my preference, but the 2001 not as much. All in all, this is a fine and enjoyable Cos, but I prefer the style of the 1990's so much more. I hope these early 2000's wines turn more interesting with enough aging - at least the wines feel like they will not only keep, but also improve for many years more.
(92 points) - 2000 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). 13% alcohol.
Brooding, almost fully opaque dark ruby red color that doesn't look old nor particularly youthful, either. The nose feels dramatically different from the preceding vintages we tasted (1998-1985): the overall aroma is dominated by rich aromas of milk chocolate, creamy diacetyl and still surprisingly youthful blackcurrant character, supported by lighter nuances of blue and dark berries, some exotic spices, a little bit of ripe dark plums and oaky hints of mocha, cedar and cloves. The wine feels comparatively big, ripe and open-knit on the palate with a quite full body and juicy yet relatively dry and savory flavors of blackcurrants and dark plums, some blueberry tones, light oaky notes of mocha and milk chocolate, a little bit of herbaceous leafy character, a hint of exotic spices and a touch of gravelly minerality. The wine is pretty firm and structured with its high acidity and ample yet not tough or aggressive tannins, yet still the overall feel is somewhat polished and glossy. The finish is ripe and rich yet dry and moderately grippy with a long, bold aftertaste of juicy black cherries and slightly wizened blackcurrants, some toasty mocha oak, light woody notes of cedar, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, a creamy hint of diacetyl and a savory touch of meaty umami.
This vintage of Cos stood in stark contrast to all the other wines we tasted, coming across as noticeably bigger, more ripe and more glossy than any other vintage in our 2002-1985 vertical. The fruit profile is somewhat sweeter and more darker, and the oak influence was noticeably more impactful here. True to the 2000 vintage, the wine feels much younger than one would expect from a +20 yo Bordeaux, but in this wine this might've been for the benefit of the other vintages, which showed much more depth, nuance and complexity. This was an impactful and impressive wine in its own right, showing lots of potential for further development - but the rich, glossy, sweet-toned flavor profile of the wine wasn't really my cup of tea. Although the surrounding vintages that we tasted (1998 and 2001) were similarly more modern compared to the older vintages in our tasting, I must admit I preferred them over this 2000 vintage. It feels as though the wine had been bitten by the California bug. I hope the wine loses its modernist edge with age and picks up some depth and savory complexity over the years. Let the wine age for another 10-15 years.
(91 points) - 1998 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) and Merlot (45%). 12,5% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and a bit evolved cherry-red color with a maroon hue. The overall appearance is somewhat more translucent than any other wine in our Cos vertical. The nose is also slightly different with a brooding, somewhat darker-toned and slightly sweeter aromas of juicy dark plums, some toasty oak spice, light autumnal notes of damp leaves and forest floor, a little bit of pipe tobacco, a cedary hint of cigar box, a touch of Asian spices and a whiff of old leather. The wine feels a bit more classically styled on the palate - and a bit more evolved than the other 1990's we tasted, too - with a full body and savory flavors of meaty umami and salty charcuterie character, some herbaceous notes of cooked bell pepper, light juicy notes of blackcurrants, Bing cherries and dark plums, a little bit of licorice, toasty hints of mocha oak and dark-toned oak spice and a touch of pipe tobacco. The medium-to-moderately high acidity feels a bit lower than it seems typical for the label, whereas the assertive and rather grippy tannins are a bit more prominent compared to the other vintages. The finish is long, juicy and quite grippy with a layered, somewhat evolved aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and dark plummy fruit, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of licorice, light savory notes of meaty umami, oaky hints of cedar and toasty mocha character and a touch of smoky chipotle.
After the older vintages of Cos d'Estournel (1990, 1995, 1996), this wine was the first to come across as stylistically somewhat different with its darker-toned, more plummy aromatics and a bit more prominent oak influence. I was thinking the winemaking was just more modern here, but only now, when I read that the Merlot component was atypically high for Cos in this vintage, it all made more sense: the flavor profile had more of that plummy Merlot plushness and the acidity came across as softer. Fortunately the rather stern tannins kept the wine wonderfully firm and structured, and even if the nose felt a bit more glossy than I expected, the wine was pretty much on point on the palate. All in all, a fine and lovely vintage of Cos, but lacks the magic of the best vintages. I also feel that the aging potential is somewhat limited compared to the other Cos vintages of the 1990's we tasted.
(93 points) - 1996 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (35%). 13% alcohol.
Dark yet moderately translucent cherry-red color with a light dried-blood hue. At first the nose feels somewhat restrained yet still very complex and attractive; however, it slowly opens up, increasing in intensity to some degree. The bouquet shows aromas of ripe dark forest fruits and smoky notes of chipotle, some herbaceous leafy and bell pepper notes of Cab, a little bit of fresh blackcurrant, light evolved nuances of earth and cured meat, a hint of tobacco, a touch of cedary oak and a whiff of Asian spices. The wine feels dry, sinewy and quite structure-driven on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and very intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants and red plums, some hebaceous notes of roasted bell pepper and leafy greenness, light evolved nuances of tobacco and meaty umami, a little bit of cedary wood, a hint of toasty oak spice and a vague touch of smoke. The combination of high acidity and still moderately assertive and grippy tannins make the overall feel pretty muscular, yet not tough or aggressive. The finish is complex, intense and moderately grippy with a long, savory aftertaste of meaty umami, some tobacco and roasted bell pepper tones, a little bit of wizened dark fruit and ripe blackcurrants, light woody notes of cedar and pencil shavings, a sweeter hint of pruney character and a smoky touch of chipotle.
I tasted this wine 7 years ago and I described how the wine was showed remarkably youthful qualities and firm structure despite the somewhat evolved nuances, guessing that the wine will keep for at least another 10 years. Well, the wine has continued to not only keep, but also evolve for the past seven years now, the wonderful tertiary qualities coming a bit more to the fore and the firm tannins showing a bit more resolution now. However, the wine still feels surprisingly youthful and vibrant for its age and the tannins are still surprisingly firm and grippy. This is as fantastic a wine as it was then, maybe even a tad better and more complex now - although the nose wasn't maybe as rich and powerful as it was. Yet still, this was easily among the best vintages of Cos we had in in our 1985-2002 vertical - if not the best (along with the exceptional 1985 and 1986 vintages). Based on its impressive intensity, sense of youthful energy and firm structure, this is an extraordinary vintage that will continue to keep (and hopefully improve) for many, many years more. Very highly recommended.
(96 points) - 1995 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). 13% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and only rather slightly translucent blackish-red color. The nose feels a bit reticent yet still very complex and attractive with layered, savory aromas of wizened dark plums, some smoky chipotle tones, a little bit of ripe blackcurrant, light gravelly mineral notes, a hint of minty lift, a woody touch of pencil shavings and a whiff of old leather. The wine feels somewhat drier, less ripe and more sinewy than the surrounding vintages (1990, 1996) in our tasting. While firm, the overall feel is still quite resolved and velvety with a medium body and layered flavors of juicy blackcurrants and ripe cherries, woody notes of pencil shavings, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of pouch tobacco, light bittersweet notes of dark chocolate, a leafy hint of herbaceous Cab character and a ferrous and subtly salty touch of blood. The high acidity and moderately grippy yet ripe and not aggressive tannins lend good intensity to the flavors and make the wine feel pretty structured yet not tough. The finish is dry, long and somewhat grippy with an intense aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of earth and tobacco, light cherry tones, a hint of gravelly minerality and a sweeter touch of wizened red fruits.
A very fine, firm and harmonious vintage of Cos that shows some ripeness and good sense of resolution, yet comes across as pretty dry, sinewy and structure-driven. Lacks maybe a bit in finesse and complexity if compared to the very best vintages of Cos, but still comes across as very impressive and attractive all the same. Excellent, serious and structure-driven stuff that is slowly inching towards its peak, yet still holds a bit potential for further development. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 1990 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). 13% alcohol.
Luminous, somewhat pale and quite translucent pomegranate red with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels somewhat evolved yet not old with fascinating, both savory and sweet and not particularly open nor closed aromas of wizened cherries and sandy soil, some ripe blackcurrant tones, a little bit of exotic spice, light oaky notes of pencil shavings and sweet toasty spice, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of dried flowers and a whiff of freshly ground coffee. The wine feels dense, somewhat ripe and quite sinewy yet silky and rather dry on the palate with a moderately full body and savory flavors of tobacco and ripe blackcurrant, some meaty notes of umami, light woody pencil shaving tones, a little bit of wizened dark fruits, toasty hints of smoky spices and ground coffee and a herbaceous touch of chopped bell peppers. The overall feel is pretty structured, thanks to the high acidity and still moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The long finish is ripe, harmonious and somewhat grippy with a complex aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of wizened dark berries, light savory notes of meaty umami, oaky hints of both woody pencil shavings and sweeter, toasty oak spice and an evolved touch of forest floor.
A really fine, attractive and harmonious vintage of Cos that is slowly approaching its plateau of maturity. The wine does show some ripeness and some sweeter nuances of slightly wizened dark fruits, yet the wine is very classically styled with its rather dry and even somewhat cold overall feel, firm sense of structure and faint herbaceous undertones. The nose is immensely seductive and on the palate the wine simply exudes class and finesse. In many a tasting, this wine would've easily been my WotN. However, in our Cos d'Estournel vertical, this wine was ever-so-slightly eclipsed by three even more enthralling vintages: 1985, 1986 and 1996. Nevertheless, this is an absolutely fantastic vintage that is not going to go into decline anytime soon. Drink or keep. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) - 1988 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and Merlot (30%). 13% alcohol.
Deep, dark and quite mature black cherry color with a somewhat evolved pomegranate hue. The developed nose feels a bit reticent but also nuanced and attractive with fine-tuned aromas of autumnal leaves and smoky chipotle character, some sweet notes of wizened blackcurrants and ripe cherries, a little bit of ferrous blood, light woody notes of cedary oak, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of prunes and a whiff of exotic spices. The wine feels ripe, silky and open-textured on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and layered flavors of tobacco and meaty umami, some sweet-fruited notes of wizened blackcurrants and dark plums, a little bit of roasted bell pepper, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of earth. The overall feel is pretty mellow and supple, thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and resolved, powdery and quite gentle tannins. The finish is long, silky and gently grippy with a dry aftertaste of tobacco and wizened blackcurrants, some red licorice, light autumnal notes of damp leaves and sous-bois, a little bit of sweet black cherry, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of roasted bell pepper.
A delicious and harmonious vintage of Cos that is more or less fully resolved and at its peak now. A very fine wine by all accounts, although feels somewhat less impressive after two exceptional vintages, 1985 and 1986, coming across as slightly softer and a bit less complex and not matching their flavor intensity. Most likely this wine won't improve with additional aging, but I don't see it falling apart anytime soon - drink or keep. Highly recommended.
(93 points) - 1986 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (68%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). 12,5% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent and moderately evolved cherry-red color with a subtle brownish-maroon hue. The nose feels rich, evolved and moderately sweet-toned with complex and enormously attractive aromas of wizened blackcurrants and dried dark fruits, some earthy tones, a little bit of ripe figs, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of cooked bell pepper, a touch of leafy greenness and a subtle whiff of perhaps bretty funk. The wine feels firm, dry and quite evolved on the palate with a medium body and complex, quite intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some tart dark plums, a little bit of tobacco and woody oak spice, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, bretty hints of leathery funk and smoky phenolic spice and a raw meaty touch of savory umami. The overall feel is enjoyably sinewy and still somewhat tightly-knit with the high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, dry and moderately grippy with a complex and quite intense aftertaste of ripe redcurrants, some wizened blackcurrants, a little bit of autumnal leaves, light woody notes of pencil shavings and cedar, tertiary hints of tobacco and beef jerky and a touch of cooked bell pepper.
An excellent vintage of Cos that is very close to its peak now - or maybe the wine is peaking now. After the amazingly complex 1985 vintage, this wine felt a tiny bit more linear and less complex in comparison, but it made it up by being slightly more intensely-flavored and somewhat more structured, showing a bit less resolution in the tannic structure. It's nigh impossible to say which one ultimately is the better wine now, but there's a tiny chance this wine might be better wine in the long run - the 1985 felt like it didn't really have any room for further improvement, whereas I thought this 1986 could not only keep, but possibly even improve with further aging. However, the wine is in an absolutely gorgeous shape right now and any bottles in prime condition can be opened anytime between now and the following two-three decades. Maybe even longer. Stunning stuff.
(96 points) - 1985 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (10.9.2023)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). 12,5% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent and moderately evolved cherry-red color with a subtle brownish-maroon hue. The nose feels dry, nuanced and very classically styled with attractive aromas of tobacco and evolved meaty tones, some wizened blackcurrants, light leafy notes, a little bit of salty liquorice powder, woody hints of cigar box and pencil shavings, a touch of licorice root and a whiff of old leather. The wine feels dry, silky and resolved on the palate with a medium body and fine-tuned, not particularly intense nor dilute flavors of ripe blackcurrants and wizened dark forest fruits, some tobacco, light woody notes of pencil shavings and cedar, a little bit of leafy Cab character, a hint of cooked bell pepper and a touch of sous-bois. The wine is high in acidity with fine, supple and fully resolved medium-minus tannins. The finish is long, dry and gently grippy with a harmonious, complex aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and sweet dried fruits, some tobacco, a little bit of cooked bell pepper, light leafy tones, a hint of exotic spices and a touch of old leather.
A beautiful, fine-tuned and so harmonious vintage of Cos that is still sitting firmly on its plateau of maturity. The structure is so resolved at this point that the wine doesn't call for any additional aging, but as the wine doesn't show any signs of decline, I'm quite positive that the wine continues to keep just fine for years more. In our Cos vertical it was nigh impossible for me to pick my favorite of the evening - this wine was maybe a tad more complex than the 1986, which instead was slightly more intense and structured. The 1996 was a banger, too. Fantastic stuff, in any case.
(96 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
