COMPREHENSIVE JACQUES SELOSSE DINNER - Source by Wolfgang Puck, Washington D.C. (3/30/2017)
We organized a cost share Jacques Selosse dinner to drink through all 11 none vintage cuvees currently produced by the house. All the wines showed telltale signs of the house style. They were released within the past two years and had perfect provenance. According to David White, the author of But First, Champagne, aside from the ones he had at the estate, these were the freshest examples. Chef Scott Drewno did an exceptional job and all the dishes were delicious and complemented the wines very well.
Initial
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Initial - France, Champagne
Similar expression as the last bottle drank on March 1st. Ripe yellow fruit with a hint of red berries, lemon curd, dry orange peel, yeast as in hefeweizen, mead, biscotti, cinnamon and sweet spices. Fully integrated palate, medium find mousse, perfect amount of acidity and a long sweet and sour finish with a hint of mead as the end note. Really delicious. (94 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: ~5g/l
A blanc de blancs of three recent vintages from lower-slope vines in Avize, Oger, and Cramant. Spends 24-30 months on lees.”
VO, Rose and Substance
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NV Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Corked.NR (flawed)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: ~1.5g/l
A blanc de blancs of three older vintages from hillside vines in Avize, Oger, and Cramant. Spends about 3.5 years on lees.”
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Rosé - France, Champagne
Absolutely decadent nose displaying subtle sweet red fruit, sugar coated raspberry, a hint of cherry, cooper, sherry vinegar, smoke and mineral. Beautifully integrated sweet palate, candied strawberry driven plate impression, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long sweet finish with copper and mineral as the end notes. Seems more ready than the Lieux-dits Collection BdN bottlings. (95 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: ~4g/l
Chardonnay from a pair of older vintages, blended with still Pinot Noir from Egly-Ouriet in Ambonnay. Still wine makes up about 6-10% of the blend. Spends about 5 years on lees.”
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NV Jacques Selosse Substance Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
The best and the freshest example of Substance of my life. Mature and complex yet energetic nose displaying dry peach, lemon curd, apple tart, marzipan and sweet spices. Energetic and harmonious palate, very fine mousse, sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long yellow fruit and sweet spices driven finish. The Polished and detailed palate reminds me a mature Chevalier Montrachet. The first bottle of Substance that I have not noticed the sherry note. Beautiful showing. (97 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
"Dosage: 0-4g/l
A solera of Avize Chardonnay created in 1986. Spends about 6 years on lees.”
Lieux Dits - Chardonnay
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Blancs Les Carelles - France, Champagne
Rich yet energetic nose displaying fresh OJ, orange marmalade, sweet spices, crème brulee, marzipan and wet stone. Excellent concentration, finest mousse of the night, beautiful interplay of rich sweet fruit and steely mineral, bright acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long sweet finish with a hint of dry orange peel at the end. With an hour of air, it becomes significantly fresher displaying fresh apple and pear. Very complex wine, fascinating and intellectual. (97 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 0-2g/l
A perpetual blend of Le Mesnil Chardonnay started in 2003. Spends about 6 years on lees.”
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut Les Chantereines - France, Champagne
Les Chantereines
The most mineral driven expression of the other Lieux-Dits Chardonnay based Champagnes. There is a hint of orange but fresh apple and pear dominates, strong presence of chalky mineral, oyster shell, smoke oyster, biscotti and sweet spices. Energetic and precise, bright acidity, incredibly mineral and a long smoke and mineral driven finish. Once again, the wine reminds me a mature Chevalier Montrachet. (97 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 0-2g/l
A perpetual blend of Chardonnay from a steep, east-facing parcel in Avize started in 2004. Spends about 6 years on lees”
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut Chemin de Châlons - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Perhaps the richest nose and palate of the night. Expressive nose displaying rich yellow fruit, peach, lemon curd, a hint of butter scotch, crushed black pepper, marzipan, anise and spicy spices. Excellent concentration, ripe yellow peach driven palate impression, bright acidity,strong presence of mineral and a long sweet finish with a hint of spicy spices and anise at the end. Another excellent showing.(96 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 0-2g/l
A perpetual blend of Chardonnay from Cramant started in 2004. Spends about 6 years on lees.”
Guillaume Selosse
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NV Guillaume Selosse Champagne Au dessus du Gros Mont - France, Champagne
Very “Selosse” nose displaying dry peach, sour apple, biscotti, yeast and anise. Despite the sweet fruit, very linear and precise palate with bright acidity and good mineral presence. The finish is quite long and ends with biscotti and anise. The overall impression is similar to the father’s wine but slightly leaner and more precise. (95 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 1.5g/l
A blend of 2008 and 2009 (I suspect it, too, will be a perpetual blend) from a 70-year-old parcel in the northeastern corner of Cramant. Spends about 5 years on lees.”
72 Avery Mazis
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1972 Averys Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Expressive earthy nose displaying dry cherry, stewed tomato, licorice, smoke, sous bois, raw mushroom and iron/mineral. Very good concentration, soft and round, dry cherry fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and mineral and a medium long iron and cherry driven finish. Nice showing, not as good as the January bottle but better than the February bottle. (94 pts.)
Lieux Dits - BdN
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Sous le Mont - France, Champagne
Subtle yet decadent nose displaying sweet red and yellow fruits, strawberry jelly, yellow peach, brioche, yeast, sweet spices, smoke and iron/mineral. Excellent concentration, steely, cool and precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long clean finish. With air, it gets fresher, rose water and fresh strawberry emerge.
(96 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 0-3g/l
A perpetual blend of Mareuil Pinot Noir started in 2005. This is sourced from a vineyard not far from Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses. Spends about 6 years on lees.” -
NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Le Bout du Clos - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
The richest and the biggest expression of the BdN line up. Rich complex nose displaying decadent red and yellow fruit, raspberry jelly, cherry, candied orange peel, apricot, biscotti, anise, yeast, mineral and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, rich yet mineral a la copper, strawberry and orange peel driven palate impression, fine mousse, perfectly amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet finish with copper and anise at the end. Really decadent without compromising the freshness and energy. (95 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 0-3g/l
A perpetual blend of Ambonnay Pinot Noir started in 2004. Spends about 6 years on lees.”
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Noirs La Côte Faron - France, Champagne
Sweet yet elegant nose displaying delicate red fruit, essence of strawberry, a hint of red cherry, orange peel, rose water, brioche, sweet spices, smoke, biscotti, copper and honey. Excellent concentration, subtle red fruit driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet finish with a hint of smoke and copper at the end. The lean and precise expression closely resembles Sous le Mont where Le Bout du Clos with the rich expression is closer to the Rose. Apparently the blend started a decade before the other two lieux dits BdNs but I would not be able to tell if tasted blind.(96 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: 0-2g/l
A perpetual blend of Aÿ Pinot Noir started in 1994. This wine was formerly known as Contraste. Spends about 6 years on lees.”
72 Vogue BM
RJ generously served this blind and most guessed early 90s.
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1972 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Served double blind by RJ, most guessed from the 80s to 90s. Still youthful color. Expressive earthy nose displaying decadent red fruit, slightly dry cherry, stewed tomato, dark spices, iron, sauteed mushroom, grilled meat and earth. Excellent concentration, dry cherry and grilled meat driven palate impression, bright acidity and strong presence of earthly mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. Very good showing. (94 pts.)
Exquise
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Cuvée Exquise - France, Champagne
It really reminds me a biscotti dipped in vin santo. Medium expressive nose displaying oxidized apple peel, orange peel, mead and yeast a la hefeweizen. Medium concentration, good acidity and a medium finish. Once again, pretty unique.(92 pts.)
Per David White, author of But First, Champagne.
“Dosage: ~24g/l
The same base blend as Intial. Spends 24-30 months on lees.”
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On our way out, RJ and I spend a few minutes talking to Jean-Charles Boisset, the proprietor of the Boisset Collection. He kindly share us a couple wines from his portfolio, Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot and a champagne, which were quite good.
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