Here’s the follow-up to our Musar vertical, pt. 1: 2016-2005, of which I had a thread some days ago.
Again, some observations on these vintages we tasted this time ('04 - '91):
- The cooler lighter vintages 2002 and 2004 performed as they normally do: pretty good. They have never been anything spectacular, they are just decent and enjoyable all-rounder vintages. Surprisingly 2004 seemed more evolved this time, pretty much at its peak, whereas 2002 seemed to be going stronger.
- 2003 is one of my favorite vintages, along with 1999 and 2005. When I tasted it for the first time, it was very rustic and rather funky with noticeably bretty overtones. However, all the subsequent bottles I’ve tasted have been much cleaner - until this bottle. This bottle was back to the funk glory!
- 2001 was so oxidative I really couldn’t tell if the vintage is getting now old or if we just had an off bottle.
- 2000 was a hot vintage, yet the wine seemed surprisingly similar to the cooler 2002 and 2004!
- 1999 is always
and this was no exception. - 1998 seems to be a very uneven vintage - at times it is glorious and has been even the best wine in the vertical, whereas at times it has been just dull and uninteresting. This time it was neither. You never really know what you’re going to get with this vintage.
- I’ve felt that 1997 has been quite modest in acidity in the past, but both this and the previous bottle of 1997 have showed surprisingly high acidity. Now there’s some evolution for you people who think aging wine will soften wine’s acidity!
- 1996 was a poor vintage and it shows.
- 1993 and 1991 were great, although not 99/03/05-great. 1991 seemed to be at its peak, whereas the jury’s still out on 1993 - which also seemed a bit better of these two vintages.
And, as is so very usual, we had a number of extra blinds as well:
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2012 Weingut Keller Vom Muscheligen Kalk - Germany, Rheinhessen (1.4.2023)
The wine is based on Pinot Blanc, but the varieties which get blended together with Pinot Blanc seem to vary slightly, depending on the vintage. I've understood this can be a blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, all three - and in some vintages some old-vine Silvaner might get blended in as well. I have no idea what the blend is in this vintage. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in stainless steel and old oak casks. 13% alcohol.
Medium-intense yellow-green color. Quite ripe and somewhat tropical yet more mineral than sweet-toned nose with aromas of yellow apple and zesty citrus fruits, some mirabelle plum, light evolved creamy and even slightly honeyed tones, a little bit of peachy fruit, floral hints of apple blossom and a touch of leesy yeast. The wine feels pretty ripe yet still enjoyably sleek on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and focused flavors of ripe red apples and white peach, some exotic fruit tones, a little bit of stony minerality and salinity, light floral nuances of apple blossom, a hint of plantain and a developed touch of creaminess. The rather high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is long, dry and juicy with flavors of white peach and ripe red apple, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of zesty citrus fruits, light savory nuances of salinity and umami, a hint of floral spice and a developed touch of honeyed richness or beeswax.
A nice, fresh and fruity white that feels very balanced and pretty true to the region, as I poured the wine blind and one of the first guesses was Germany, followed by Rheinhessen when I asked for the region. There is certain Riesling-like-ness to this wine, which is probably due to the producer and how he makes their wines. However, the overall style is more neutral and not as expressive or acid-driven as you'd expect a Riesling to be. All in all, a pleasant, harmonious and well-crafted white - maybe a bit anonymous in character, yet still high in quality. Despite its slightly evolved nuances, the wine is still remarkably youthful for a 10-yo white and I can see this continuing to evolve and improve for a number of years more. At 75€ for a set of five bottles - ie. 18,90€ per bottle with all the additional costs - this wine was priced according to its quality.
(89 points) -
2020 Mercator Vineyards Marquette Upper Ridge - Canada, Nova Scotia, Annapolis Valley (1.4.2023)
100% Marquette from Nova Scotia. Aged for 10 months in old French oak barrels. Total production 24 barrels. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, fully opaque purplish-red color. The nose feels youthful, primary and sweet-toned - and yet, at the same time also somewhat dull and musty - with aromas of raspberry candies and fruit jellies, some boysenberry tones, a little bit of damp earth and forest floor, light blueberry nuances and a hint of decomposing wood. The wine is youthful yet slightly dull on the palate with a light-to-medium body and crunchy flavors of tart lingonberries and brambly raspberries, some crunchy red apple tones, a little bit of crowberry, light earthy nuances, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of sweetness - probably a pinch of residual sugar here? The acidity feels very high and somewhat raw, incisive and not that pleasant. There's also a tiny bit of tannic grip as well, but not much. The finish is light, tart and unremarkable with a rather short aftertaste of cranberries and lingonberries, some brambly raspberry tones, a little bit of salinity and a hint of crunchy Granny Smith apple.
Can't say this was particularly pleasant an experience. The wine was both primary and almost candied, yet somewhat musty and earthy at the same time. The fruit profile was pretty typical of hybrid varieties - lacking depth and richness, just coming across as thin and crunchy with relatively simple, acid-driven berry flavors. Especially the acid quality here was quite jarring - this acidity would've felt like rather raw and screechy even in a crisp white wine, but here, in a red wine, it felt just totally out of place. Some people wondered whether the wine was corked, but the musty tones didn't feel at all like TCA to me, and it seems both the producer and many tasting notes on this wine describe the wine having "earthiness" - I guess this is not a bug, just a feature. At 17€ this feels expensive for its quality.
(68 points) -
2011 Roagna Barbera d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (1.4.2023)
Made with fruit sourced from very old vines (up to 80 yo), fermented spontaneously, macerated with a submerged cap for 60-70 days. Aged for approximately five years in large oak botti and concrete tanks. Total production 3408 bottles. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep, slightly evolved and somewhat translucent brick-red color. The nose feels savory, serious and classically styled with layered aromas of tobacco and black cherries, some lifted minty notes, a little bit of wizened sour cherries, light volatile nuances of nail polish, a hint of strawberry and a touch of meaty character. The wine is firm, dry and savory on the palate with a medium body and nuanced flavors of sour cherries and tart cranberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of tobacco, light wild strawberry nuances, a hint of ferrous blood and a faint touch of tar. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity, but the firm medium-minus tannins bring a little bit of grip to the mouthfeel as well. The finish is dry, savory and gently grippy with flavors of crunchy cranberries, some evolved notes of beef jerky and salt-cured meat, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of crowberry and a touch of tobacco.
A very firm, sophisticated and dead-serious Barbera. I was genuinely sure this was a Nebbiolo with a little bit of age. The tannins didn't really scream for Nebbiolo, but there was enough grip here that it wouldn't have been out of place for a Nebbiolo (and admittedly the wine was surprisingly grippy for a Barbera). Aromatically this wine was really just screaming "Nebbiolo with some age" - not really showing much if any of those darker-toned blueberry flavors, but instead relatively red-toned with lots of savory nuances you'd normally find in a Nebbiolo. As I'm not a big fan of Barbera, but instead love Nebbiolo, I admit I enjoyed this wine immensely. This is just the kind of Barbera I wish every Barbera was! Terrific stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) -
2014 Tenuta del Travale Eleuteria Calabria IGT - Italy, Calabria, Calabria IGT (1.4.2023)
The first ever vintage of this Calabrian specialty (lot number L01). A blend of Nerello Mascalese (80%) and Nerello Cappuccio (20%) from Rovito, Calabria. Bottled unfiltered. Total production approx. 1000 bottles. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Somewhat evolved and moderately translucent maroon color with a clear brick-red rim. The nose feels savory, slightly smoky and somewhat Chianti Classico-like with aromas of tobacco and ripe dark berries, some sour cherry tones, a little bit of stony volcanic character, light mushroomy notes of chanterelles, a hint of bright red-toned berry fruit and a touch of tar. The wine feels dry, somewhat evolved and relatively non-fruity on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of tobacco and crunchy cranberry, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of old leather, light earthy tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of mushroomy character. The combination of relatively reticent fruit department and pretty muscular structure - the wine is high in acidity with quite tough and assertive tannins - make the wine feel pretty austere and dead-serious. The finish is tough, dry and grippy with a long, savory aftertaste of tobacco and sour cherry, some leathery tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light smoky mineral tones and nuances of tar, a hint of earth and a touch of gamey meat.
A very nice, stern and serious Calabrian red with a lot of emphasis on structure and relatively little on the fruit department. It's hard to say whether this wine has always been like this or if the fruit has faded away a little bit with age. No matter, this is still pretty enjoyable - in the same way a young, tough and noticeably tannic Barolo can be very enjoyable. You just need something rich and hearty to tame those tannins away. I guess this wine feels a bit darker-toned and more extracted than your typical Etna Rosso, but since this is the first vintage of this wine ever, it might be that the producers are still learning the ropes and the style will change with further vintages - at least the 2017 vintage we tasted in late 2022 seemed a bit less tough, although I don't know if the difference was from vinification practices or just vintage variation. Anyways, this was a nice, structure-driven wine - although pretty expensive at that, at the price of approx. 70-80€ per bottle.
(92 points) -
2010 Château Cambon La Pelouse - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (1.4.2023)
From a bottle Coravined twice (6cl on 8th of July, 2020 and 6 cl of 19th of March, 2021). A blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Macerated with the skins for 3-4 weeks in stainless steel, aged for 12 months in French oak barriques, approx. 50% new. 14% alcohol.
Dense, quite opaque and moderately extracted black cherry color with a somewhat youthful inky hue. The nose feels ripe, sweet-toned and somewhat modern with moderately polished aromas of juicy blackcurrants, some mocha oak tones, a little bit of cigar wrapper, light blueberry nuances, a hint of ripe dark plums, a touch of vanilla and a whiff of crème de cassis. The wine feels ripe, dense and full-bodied on the palate with dry and pretty concentrated flavors of blackcurrants and dark plums, some mocha oak tones, a little bit of fresh bilberry, light cigar tones, oaky hints of toasted wood and vanilla and a touch of savory umami character. The overall feel is pretty muscular, thanks to the rather high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is big, juicy and quite grippy with a long, rich aftertaste of toasty mocha oak and sweet oak spice, some sweet dark-toned fruity notes of ripe bilberries and blackcurrants, a little bit of fresh plummy fruit, light vanilla nuances, a hint of extracted woody bitterness and a touch of cigar.
A balanced and quite muscular Bordeaux that feels still both quite youthful and relatively modern and polished in style. I enjoyed the 2011 vintage a bit more; it was admittedly somewhat more reticent compared to this, more expressive vintage, but at the same time the fruit didn't feel as lush and sweet-toned and, more importantly, the oak influence wasn't as sweet, toasty and in-your-face as here. There's still some charm here - the wine shows impressive fruit intensity without coming across as too in-your-face and I enjoy the structure-driven style here. I guess this wine has the potential to make great old bones, but seeing how very youthful the wine is now, at +12 years of age, I think this wine is going to need at least another 10-15 years before it loses its glossy sheen and its tannins start to resolve and turn more supple. Although the wine might not be really in my wheelhouse - at least at the moment - I must admit that at just 15€ this has been a terrific purchase.
(89 points) -
2020 Chateau Musar Levantine de Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
A recent addition to the Musar lineup, sitting between Musar Jeune and Hochar Père et Fils. A blend of Cinsaut (65%), Tempranillo (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) sourced from a single organically farmed vineyard. Although the 2020 vintage was otherwise ideal, the heatwave in September resulted in the loss of 40% of the fruit. The varietal wines for Levantine were vinified separately; they were fermented spontaneously and aged on the lees in concrete vats until blended in early 2021. The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered in July 2021. 14,5% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous and somewhat translucent dark ruby color with faint blueish highlights. The nose feels youthful, fruit-driven and slightly reductive with aromas of ripe dark fruits, some strawberry tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light blueberry tones, a hint of plum liqueur, a floral touch of violets and a reductive whiff of gunpowder smoke. The wine feels youthful, fruit-driven and a bit restrained yet very balanced on the palate with a medium body and dry, bright flavors of boysenberries and brambly raspberries, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of fresh bilberry or blackcurrant, light youthful floral nuances, a hint of peppery spice and a touch of tobacco. The wine is moderately high in acidity with balanced, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The relatively high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate. The finish is long, somewhat spicy and a bit warm with some tannic grip and a savory aftertaste of ripe boysenberries and black cherries, some peppery tones, a little bit of juicy bilberry, light floral nuances, red-toned hints of wild strawberries and redcurrants and a touch of gravelly minerality.
A nice, fresh and balanced "baby Musar" that is still super youthful and perhaps not entirely ready yet. This wine doesn't seem to be as serious as the grand vin of Musar, but it packs good, serious punch for its relatively modest price and at the age of 2½ years feels more about future potential than immediate enjoyment. While definitely not as ageworthy as Chateau Musar or Hochar Père et fils, I feel that this wine is going to be better once it loses some of its primary fruit flavors and reductive qualities, even if the wine is pretty drinkable already now, both from the flavor and structure perspective. Good stuff, solid value at 18,90€.
(89 points) -
2004 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
2004 was a very cool vintage: snow didn't melt until March, spring lasted until June and the ripening period was slowed down by constant cooler breezes. The grapes never developed much acidity and the first grapes arriving to the winery were rather low in sugar as well. However, a two-week heat wave that arrived during the harvest boosted the sugar levels in the remaining grapes. The wine was made in the traditional method of Musar: 9 months of aging in cement vats, 1 year in oak barrels, blending and maturation for 9 months in cement vats, finished with bottling and extended bottle aging before release. 14% alcohol. Decanted for four hours before tasting the wine.
Quite dark and somewhat translucent cherry-red color with a moderately evolved maroon hue. The nose feels savory, evolved and slightly oxidative with aromas of wizened red plums, some meaty tones, a little bit of smoky speck character, light strawberry tones, a hint of earth, a volatile touch of medicinal ether and a whiff of soy sauce. The wine feels evolved, open-knit and slightly oxidative on the palate with a medium body and moderately tertiary flavors of prunes and dark raisiny tones, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of strawberry, light earthy notes, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of smoke-cured meat. The ripe medium tannins feel somewhat grippy and the acidity comes across as medium-to-moderately high, maybe a bit soft. The finish is rich, silky and gently grippy with a rather long, sweet-toned and somewhat tertiary aftertaste of strawberries and raisins, some salty notes of prosciutto, a little bit of balsamic VA, light gravelly mineral tones, a hint of blood and a touch of dried figs.
A nice, evolved and moderately tertiary vintage of Musar that is either at its peak or very near it - based on the slightly oxidative overtones, I wouldn't age this vintage extensively. As a whole, this feels like a middling vintage of Musar, not really packing the structure, intensity and aging potential that the surrounding vintages do. All in all, this is an enjoyable and lovely Musar in its own right, but remains a bit underwhelming in light of the better vintages. I think I've had a bit more impressive bottles of this vintage in the past - or they've been drunk at a better phase - but my views on this vintage have always been consistent: 2004 does not count among the great vintages of Musar. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 43,89€.
(90 points) -
2003 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The winter of 2003 was the rainiest in 15 years in Beqaa, but after April, no rain fell. A long heat wave in May decreased yields by 30%, concentrating the acidity and sugar levels in the remaining grapes substantially. However, July and August were cooler than normal, delaying the ripening process. Still, the harvest was carried out by normal schedule. The maceration was carried out over 3 weeks with maceration, resulting in firm, structured wines. The wines were aged for 9 months in cement vats, 12 months in Nevers oak barrels, blended together and matured for a further 6 months in cement vats before bottling. 14% alcohol. Decanted for four hours before tasting the wine.
Moderately translucent, medium-deep brick-red color. The nose feels very funky and expressive - just as it did with my first experience with 2003 Musar, but never since! There are rustic aromas of bretty barnyard and smoky phenolic tones, some ripe cherry notes, a little bit of earthy, light spicy nuances of black pepper, a hint of wizened raspberries and a touch of wizened figs. The wine feels juicy, focused and remarkably intense on the palate with a medium body and somewhat rustic yet vibrant flavors of wizened black cherries, some bretty notes of new leather, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light meaty notes of umami, a hint of barnyard funk and a touch of phenolic spice. The overall feel is very harmonious and complex with a good sense of structure, thanks to the rather high acidity and firm, moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is ripe yet dry, funky and somewhat grippy with a rustic, moderately long aftertaste of ripe strawberries and wizened red cherries, some bretty notes of leather and barnyard funk, a little bit of phenolic spice, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of dried red plum and a touch of balsamic VA.
I remember opening a bottle of 2003 Musar more than ten years ago and it was noticeably funky and rustic with a healthy dose of brett - which is why I've always wondered if the wine was actually that funky, because none of the bottles of 2003 Musar have been noticeably bretty. Some have even been surprisingly clean for Musar! However, this wine was just as funky and rustic as I remembered my first bottle of 2003 Musar was! Furthermore, it seems the wine has developed some really lovely additional complexity over the years without really losing any of its intensity or sense of structure, resulting in a wine that is probably better than ever before. I've consistently written how 2003 is easily one of the best Musar vintages of the noughties, and this sentiment applies to this wine more than ever. This was a really fantastic, classically styled and so very rewarding Musar and my WotN in our 2004-1991 Musar vertical. It drinks mighty well right now, but most likely the wine easily keep - if not age further - for another decade or two. At just 34,90€ this has been a steal.
(96 points) -
2002 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
n 2002 long, cold and rainy weather pushed the ends of the winter and the spring back, all the way into late June, followed by a mild July and then, suddenly, a hot August. The ripening process was delayed accordingly, the harvest starting two weeks behind the normal schedule, starting on 15th of September. The maturity of grapes was extremely varied from vineyard to vineyard, so instead of picking the varieties one by one, the harvest had to be done vineyard by vineyard, according to the maturity. This year the fermentation and maceration times were much longer than normal. After 6 months of aging in concrete vats, the wines were racked into oak barrels for one year. After the oak aging the wines were blended together and matured for a further year in oak casks before bottling. 14% alcohol. Decanted for four hours before tasting the wine.
Quite deep, dark and moderately translucent maroon red color. The nose feels expressive, somewhat evolved and slightly volatile with sweet'n'savory aromas of wizened red fruits and ripe red currants, some developed meat jerky tones, a little bit of minty lift, light smoky nuances, a hint of tobacco, a sweet, lifted touch of ethery VA and a whiff of fresh black cherries. The wine feels silky, harmonious and moderately evolved on the palate with a medium body and slightly tertiary flavors of dried dates and dark raisiny fruit, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of wizened red plums, light ferrous notes of blood, a bretty hint of leathery funk and a touch of balsamic VA. The overall feel is balanced with the rather high acidity, although the ripe medium tannins contribute more to the texture rather than to the structure. The finish is evolved, savory and somewhat grippy with a long, complex and juicy aftertaste of wizened red plums and dried dates, some tertiary beef jerky tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of ripe figs and a touch of leathery funk.
As before, this 2002 vintage seems a lighter and more delicate vintage of Musar where the most important element seems to be its rather high acidity. Without that vital freshness, this would be a rather underwhelming effort, but with its sufficiently high acidity the wine comes across as balanced and harmonious, not dull or too soft. At a wee bit over 20 years of age, the wine shows some tertiary development, but is yet to go downhill. As some subtly oxidative elements have appeared among the fruit flavors, I'd say the wine is starting to be at its peak and won't improve much further from here - but at least it will continue to keep for a good handful of years more. And I'd say this bottle performed slightly better than the one we had a few years ago, when the wine seemed to be slightly softer and more underwhelming than before. This bottle was better in line with the typical style of the vintage.
(92 points) -
2001 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
2001 was a very hot and dry vintage in Beqaa: by mid-February the weather turned to much more warmer than usual with almost nonexistent rains. After relatively normal weather during the flowering, the weather turned hotter than average for July and August, resulting in 15% reduction in yield. The harvest was carried ahead of the schedule, starting already on 3rd of September. The Cinsaut suffered from the hot weather, losing some of its color; thus, the percentage of Cinsaut is somewhat lower in this year's blend compared to other vintages. As normal, the wine was fermented and aged in cement vats for 9 months, aged in oak for 12 months, blended together and matured for a further year in cement vats before bottling. 13,5% alcohol. Decanted for four hours before tasting the wine.
Quite dark yet moderately translucent and very evolved dried-blood red color with a tertiary syrupy brown hue. The nose feels quite old and oxidative with somewhat tired aromas of beef jerky, some dried dates, light nutty notes of rancio, a little bit of soy sauce, a hint of smoke-cured meat and a touch of old furniture. The wine feels old, tertiary and moderately tired with a medium body and somewhat oxidative flavors of raisins and dried dates, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of beef jerky, light nutty notes of rancio, a hint of soy sauce and a touch of mushroomy funk. The wine feels rather high in acidity with ripe, quite resolved medium tannins. The finish is quite long, slightly more grippy and a bit tired with very tertiary flavors of raisins and dried dates, some soy sauce, light sweet notes of balsamic VA, a little bit of beef jerky, a hint of earthy spices and a touch of smoke.
This has been a rather uneven vintage, some bottles being quite enjoyable and some rather tired or slightly unbalanced. However, this wine is getting so tertiary that it is obviously way past its peak. I wouldn't say the wine is fully oxidized, so I'm not marking it as "flawed/defective", but I'm refraining from scoring the wine. Based on my previous experiences with this vintage, this is not how the wine should be - however, I don't know if this was a poor bottle or if 2001 is now officially past its peak. I need to revisit this vintage in the future to see which is the case. -
2000 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The vintage 2000 had a warm and dry summer with a hot July and above-average temperatures in August. Released in 2007, alcohol 13,5%, 2 g/l residual sugar, 5,18 g/l acidity, pH 3,87 and 38 mg/l SO2. Decanted for four hours before tasting the wine.
Clear, luminous and moderately evolved brick-red color with a pale, almost colorless rim. The nose feels fragrant, attractive and quite harmonious with aromas of ripe cherries, some funky notes of leather, a little bit of balsamic VA, light strawberry nuances, a hint of dried flowers, a touch of dried figs and a volatile whiff of medicinal ether. The wine feels mellow, silky and moderately evolved on the palate with a rather full body and layered flavors of dried red fruits, some raisiny tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light oxidative notes of beef jerky, volatile hints of balsamico and medicinal ether and a touch of dried flowers. The overall feel is still quite structured with the quite high acidity and ripe yet still moderately grippy tannins. The finsih is ripe, juicy and evolved with moderately grippy tannins and a long aftertaste of juicy strawberries, some wizened red fruits, a little bit of dried flowers, light ethery notes of VA, a hint of developed raisiny fruit and a faint touch of tangy salinity.
A very harmonious and attractive vintage of Musar and perhaps the best bottle of 2000 Musar I've had to this date. This particular vintage has always in the past showed a little bit of sharp, aldehydic greenness, but not this time - maybe apart from that subtle note of tangy salinity in the aftertaste. Furthermore, this bottle seemed much less evolved and tertiary compared to the last bottle I tasted before this one, 3½ years ago. Although the wine is starting to show some evolution and there are some subtly oxidative nuances, the wine still retains great sense of intensity, structure and complexity. I'm not sure if the wine is going to evolve for that much more, but most likely it will continue to keep just fine for many more years. Great stuff, solid value at 45,89€.
(93 points) -
1999 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
14,15% alcohol, 5,97 g/l acidity, 0,95 g/l VA, pH 3,79. Decanted for four hours before tasting the wine.
Deep, quite dark and somewhat translucent brick-red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels fragrant, quite dry and slightly oxidative yet not too old with layered aromas of sweet balsamic VA and strawberry jam, some Tawny Port-like caramel tones, a little bit of leathery brett, light juicy notes of ripe raspberries, a hint of dried figs and a touch of garrigue. The wine feels ripe, harmonious and subtly sweet-toned on the palate with a moderately full body and rather intense flavors of strawberry jam and very ripe raspberries, some bretty notes of leathery funk, a little bit of balsamic VA, light pruney tones, a syrupy, Tawny Port-like hint of sotolon and a touch of gamey meat. Despite its age, the wine retains an impressive, sinewy structure with its high acidity and still relatively grippy tannins. The finish is rich, complex and juicy with a firm tannic grip and a lengthy aftertaste of balsamic VA and wizened sour cherries, some strawberry tones, a little bit of dried dates, light oxidative notes of soy sauce, a sweet hint of soft black cherries and a touch of caramel.
A beautiful, complex and still impressively structured vintage of Musar that is consistently one of the best vintages in every Musar vertical it appears in. It feels like the wine has evolved to a point where it is aromatically more or less at its plateau of maturity, but its structure is still impressively firm and relatively tightly-knit. Regarding any further aging, I suspect the wine won't evolve much from the flavor perspective, but it might resolve into a slightly more open-knit texture over the following handful of years. However, based any further improvement is going to be quite limited, so any further aging is not really necessary. This is drinking beautifully right now, but most likely it will keep just fine for a decade or even longer. Truly a magical wine and among my favorite vintages of Musar from the past 20 years. At 30,59€ this has been a steal.
(95 points) -
1998 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The vintage 1998 started off quite normally but the temperatures remained relatively cool until June. Quite typical, warm and dry summer. The blend is quite typical aka. one third of each Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut, although the Cinsaut portion is slightly higher this vintage. 13,35% alcohol, 1-2 g/l residual sugar, 5,59 g/l acidity, pH 3,79 and 38 mg/l SO2. Decanted for six hours before tasting the wine.
Dark, luminous and moderately translucent brick-red color with a pale orange rim. The nose feels fragrant, somewhat volatile and a bit reticent with aromas of cherries and dried flowers, some lifted notes of medicinal ether and nail polish, a little bit of dried raspberry, light bretty notes of leather, a meaty hint of chorizo, a touch of strawberry and a whiff of dried figs. The wine feels rich, evolved and moderately volatile on the palate with a rather full body and quite rich flavors of ripe cherries, some nail polish, a little bit of dried figs, light bretty notes of leathery funk and Band-Aid, sweet hints of dark plums and blackcurrant jam and a sharp touch of acetic VA. The wine still retains quite a bit of structure with its rather high acidity and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is juicy, somewhat volatile and moderately tannic with a long aftertaste of balsamic VA and acetic sharpness, some lifted notes of medicinal ether, a little bit of dried figs, light bretty notes of leathery funk, a sweet hint of ripe black cherries and a touch of salinity.
This 1998 has been one of the more unreliable vintages of Musar, a winery known for their wide bottle variation. At its best, this vintage has been exceptional, but at its worst it has been excessively volatile and bretty, the more sauvage notes overwhelming all the finer nuances. This time this bottle wasn't as volatile and funky as it has been at its worst, but this was nevertheless a far cry from the bottles where this wine has been performing at its best. I'd say a well-kept bottle still has a lot of potential left in it for any further development, but it seems to be just pure luck whether the wine has only a tiny bit of funk and lift, just adding some nice, rustic complexity; or if the wine is getting too funky, volatile and acetic. While not a bad wine by any means, I still admit - knowing the greatness this vintage can achieve - this time our gamble didn't yield winning results. Priced more or less according to its quality at 39€, I guess.
(91 points) -
1997 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The vintage 1997 was perfect for Chateau Musar: a normal winter, fresh spring, mild summer, cloudy and moderate August followed by a sunny September for the harvest. Very slow and steady fermentation with indigenous yeasts. 14% alcohol. Decanted for six hours before tasting the wine.
Quite deep, dark and somewhat opaque brick-red color with a quite translucent blood-red rim. Savory, fragrant yet not particularly open nose with somewhat earthy aromas of leather and ripe red fruits, some strawberry tones, a little bit of tobacco, light sweet nuances of wizened figs, a hint of earthy spices and a faint touch of cherry marmalade. With air the nose starts to open up more. The wine feels savory, juicy and quite complex on the palate with a full body and layered flavors of leather and pipe tobacco, some earthy tones, a little bit of wizened cherries, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of ripe redcurrants and a subtly acetic touch of balsamic VA. The wine is noticeably high in acidity for a Musar, whereas the tannins come across as pretty resolved and supple. The finish is juicy, moderately earthy and gently grippy with powdery, textural tannins and a long aftertaste of pipe tobacco and ferrous blood, some leathery notes, a little bit of balsamic VA, light sweet notes of dried figs, a hint of earth and a touch of ripe red cherries.
Apart from the last time I had this wine in late 2019, when it was remarkably youthful and vibrant, this vintage has always been reliably a "quite nice" vintage of Musar. It has never been that much about fruit flavors as it is about savory non-fruit flavors, accentuated by subtle nuances of VA. What makes this wine quite terrific in its own right is its bright, refreshing acidity - for some reason I haven't noticed the wine was particularly high in acidity in the past, but both this bottle and the one we tasted in 2019 were definitely very high in acidity! I wonder if it might have something to do with the wine aging and losing its body, making the acidity feel more pronounced? Who knows. All in all, this was an enjoyable and sophisticated vintage with some age and good sense of complexity - but ultimately this didn't reach the level of intensity and sheer wow factor that the bottle we had in 2019 showed. Very good, but not exceptional.
(92 points) -
1996 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The vintage 1996 was fairly normal for Chateau Musar with a cool, rainy winter and a mild spring followed by good flowering. The crop was quite large, resulting in fruit lacking a bit in power and concentration, which is why only the best lots were selected for the grand vin in this year, resulting in a noticeably smaller quantity of the wine in this vintage. A slightly higher amount of SO2 was used - during the racking process - as the wine seemed lighter and weaker than normal, making Serge Hochar wonder if the wine was protected well enough against oxygen. The blend is quite typical aka. one third of each Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsaut. 13% alcohol. Decanted for six hours before tasting the wine.
Aged, old and very translucent appearance with a brown color of burnt sugar. The nose feels pungent with oxidized and Madeirized aromas of peanut butter and nutty rancio, some cooked cream tones, a little bit of soy sauce, light espresso tones, a hint of hoi sin, a Sercial-like touch of chopped walnuts and a faint green whiff of aldehydic sharpness. The wine is old and tired on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and flavors that are between oxidative and oxidized: chopped walnuts, soy sauce, some salty notes of rancio, a little bit of aldehydic salinity, light beef jerky nuances, a hint of espresso and a touch of peanut butter. The wine is high in acidity with rather resolved medium-minus tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is old, tangy and oxidative with flavors of soy sauce and aldehydic salinity, some nutty notes of rancio, a little bit of beef jerky, a hint of green apple slices and a touch of coffee grounds. The tannins make the wine end on a very slightly grippy note.
Tasting this wine seven years ago, I wrote "...it might be that it is not that far from getting past its peak. Most likely the wine will hold good for many years, but a decade might be pushing it." - and it seems I was right. This is an atypically light vintage of Musar that didn't have enough stuffing to make old bones and it seems now the wine has gone over the hill and is falling apart. I know Musar is one of those wines that need a lot of aeration and can make almost magical rebounds with enough aging, but as this wine seemed to get only more tired and oxidative over the evening, I am pretty sure this wine is now just past its peak. Any remaining bottles should be consumed sooner rather than later.
(NR/flawed) -
1993 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The vintage 1993 started with a cold and rainy winter, followed by a mild spring and surprise freezes in May, reducing the crop by 10%. The summer was quite normal throughout and a hot week in early September accelerated the fruit to reach good ripeness. Harvested in the latter half of September, starting on 16th of September. Very slow and steady fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Aged for 12 months in predominantly old Nevers oak barrels, after which the final cuvée was blended. Bottled unfined and unfiltered in 1996. 13,7% alcohol. Decanted for six hours before tasting the wine.
Deep, evolved and quite luminous brick-red color with a tertiary orange hue. The rather perfumed nose feels evolved, harmonious and rather sweet-toned with layered aromas of wizened black cherries and ripe dark plums, some ethery notes of VA, a little bit of dried flowers, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, a hint of smoke, a touch of marmaladey red berries and a whiff of sun-baked earth. The wine feels evolved, silky and harmonious on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of tobacco and beef jerky, some fragrant nuances of dried flowers, a little bit of gamey meat, light autumnal notes of damp leaves, sweet hints of ripe black cherries and dried red plums and a touch of salt-cured meat. The structure relies more on the high acidity, as the supple, resolved tannins contribute more to the rich, textural mouthfeel of the wine. The finish is long, juicy and harmonious with a savory, complex aftertaste of tobacco and dried flowers, some autumnal notes of damp leaves, a little bit of cherry marmalade, light pruney tones, a hint of game and a sweet touch of ripe red plums.
A fantastic, evolved and harmonious vintage of Musar that is now, at approximately 30 years of age, at its peak. There is enough fruit to make the wine feel vibrant and energetic, but structurally the wine is starting to feel fully resolved and flavor-wise there is quite a bit of savory tertiary complexity. Most likely any good bottles will remain in a wonderful shape for a good handful of years more, but I feel this vintage won't really improve with any additional aging and it doesn't call for further cellaring. Drink now or in the following years - this is now as good as it gets! Superb stuff and among my favorites in out Musar 2004-1991 vertical.
(94 points) -
1991 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (1.4.2023)
The vintage 1991 started with a cold winter, followed by a quite cool spring with some freezes before flowering, reducing the crop a bit. The summer was quite cool throughout and even surprisingly cold in August, only turning somewhat warmer in September. Harvested between the 16th of September and the 2nd of October. Very slow and steady fermentation with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks. Aged for 12 months in predominantly old Nevers oak barrels, after which the final cuvée was blended. Bottled unfined and unfiltered in 1994. 14% alcohol. Decanted for six hours before tasting the wine.
Moderately translucent and quite evolved brick-orange color with a tertiary maroon hue. The nose feels quite old and tertiary but also harmonious and pretty attractive with layered aromas of mahogany and autumnal leaves, some sweet notes of dried figs and blackcurrant jam, light ethery notes of VA, a little bit of juicy strawberry and red plum, bretty hints of saddle leather and phenolic spice, a touch of meat stew and a faint green-toned whiff of minty lift. The wine feels tertiary, resolved and moderately sweetly-fruited on the palate with a silky texture, a full body and layered flavors of dried dates and wizened red cherries, some raspberry juice tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light notes of pipe tobacco, evolved hints of old leather and beef jerky and a touch of mahogany. I wonder if there is a tiniest bit of residual sugar here - just a few grams more than is normal for Musar - giving the fruit flavors a tiny boost of richness? The wine is quite high in acidity, but the ample tannins come across as fully resolved and very supple, lending very little grip to the mouthfeel. The finish is long, subtly grippy and quite complex with a sweet'n'savory aftertaste of dried figs and wizened cherries, some leathery notes, a little bit of balsamic richness, light earthy tones, a hint of blackcurrant jam and a volatile touch of medicinal ether.
A beautiful, harmonious and textural old Musar. It feels age has made some of the finer nuances disappear and the wine is starting to have a more anonymous old-wine feel to it, but there is nothing obviously oxidative here and the wine still feels like it is yet to go downhill. Most likely the wine has reached its plateau of maturity years ago and it is still sitting there, firmly, without any plans on falling apart. As the wine is pretty tertiary with fully resolved tannins and a very smooth, velvety texture, the wine doesn't really call for any additional aging, but most likely the wine can be kept for years more without problems. However, if you had any bottles remaining in your cellar, I'd start planning on drinking them sooner rather than later.
(93 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
