From the cellar and an overlooked vintage. Very dark, even at the rim. Black fruit, no excessive alcohol, tannin becomes more noticeable 3 hrs after opening (no decant). Nice balance, with fruit able to stand up to the tannin. Lacks the magisterial power of a recent 2003 Sociando Mallet. Excellent wine with great typicity. 2nd day: hint of vanilla. Still some tannin. Horsey, still good fruit. Nine left, so it’s time to start drinking these in earnest.
But a vintage beloved by classicists, including Hugh Johnson. When I have the chance to participate in recent Bordeaux verticals, '04 is often one of my favorite, if not my favorite, of the line-up. In a recent '03-'12 vertical of Pontet-Canet, '04 was by far my favorite – topping '05, '09, and '10. Partially that’s obviously the relative readiness and maturity of the wine compared with the two younger vintages, and the austerity of '05 at this stage. But even so, I think '04 captures everything that you want in good left-bank Bordeaux: structure, a bit of slicing acid, firm but elegant tannins, tobacco, and a wonderful bouquet. It’s the vintage of the 2000s that most says “Claret” to my mind.
p.s. Having had the '04 L-B last year I think it will evolve in interest ways for the next 15-20 years without a problem. So no need to rush things!
Thanks for your comments, Benjamin. Johnson calls the vintage a “mixed bag” in his latest Pocket Guide, but apart from that, I completely agree with what you say about it. The color and structure of the wine support your timeline, but I’m not sure the fruit will be able to keep up. I plan to drink more LB soon, but can certainly envision keeping two or three for 2020 and beyond. I have also enjoyed 2004 Duhart Milon and Lynch Bages.
On a related note, I have also enjoyed the '02 Barton, which has a pleasing green edge to it.
Sounds like the 1988
Interesting. I must admit that I haven’t looked at the recent pocket guides, but I do remember he sung its praise in his autobiography. And more recently at a blind tasting event in London. I wonder if there isn’t some amount of disconnect between his views and what goes in the guide as he ages. But either way, there were certainly people who produced bad wine in '04, so that comment isn’t incorrect. I think it probably favored “old-school” producers, who knew how to make that profile of wine.
And it’s true that the fruit won’t be much more than a whisper in 2025, but I don’t see that as a bad thing. To each their own! De gustibus nonest disputandum
Agree with Benjamin, the vintage 2004 can definitely be called “classic”, but at age 11 it is still very youthful … drink only if you haven´t got anything more mature at hand.
I suppose you haven´t tasted (for instance) many 1994s lately - a vintage that has a similar structure and texture and is entering a very nice stage of drinkability - but 2004 is MORE concentrated … so where is the problem that the fruit will easily keep up with the structure (I´m talking about the successes of the vintages).
BTW: one of the best 2004 wines is Mouton-R. - the Northern neighbour - (despite the catastrophic label) - one of the most promising Moutons, will be a worthy follower to the 1988.
Put me in the camp of really liking the 2004 Barton much in the same way that I did the 1994. but I agree with Gerhard, the 04 has far better concentration of fruit. I am a big fan of 2004 left banks.
Gerhard/Robert: no argument about the vintage being a classic, but it’s hard to believe the wine will offer much pleasure in 2035. Reminds me of the quip attributed to André Tchelistcheff, about making love to old ladies-possible, but requiring imagination.
So you mean a fine (1988), 1985, 1983, 1981, 1978 Bordeaux doesn´t provide any pleasure now - not to speak of 1986 … ???
Have to agree with Gerhard. This is a pretty classic wine with balance to age. If you only like primary fruit then yeah, drink soon-ish, but Bordeaux is about much more than primary fruit.
If you want to generalize my comment on a single wine from one vintage, be my guest. As far as I’m concerned, you’re also welcome to drink your '04 LB’s whenever you want.
David-thanks for weighing in, but I would hardly characterize this wine as primary.
Crazy to think these were only $45 on release, but then again, I only paid $50 for the 2014.
Ted, I’d gladly buy some of these off of you. I think, however, that you should hold on to some and definitely for the longer term. These are not ready to drink, these are still evolutionary. You cannot compare it to the 2003 Sociando, which is wide f’ng open. I like that sexy 03 Sociando, but the fruit is a tad roasted from the hot year. The 2000 that I just had was killer.
Just this humble man’s opinion.
I have been drinking it regularly from half bottle since release, including a recently as this summer. It is in fact still quite primary. It’s just not a fruit bomb vintage like 2005 or 2009.
Crazy indeed-I also paid $45. Sorry, but they’re too delicious to sell!
The Barton may be a little firm (which I sort of like), but complex and balanced. I know I’m not alone in thinking these are in their window. As noted earlier in the thread, I can see saving a few of these for later, if not 20 years.
As for the Sociando Mallet,I was more contrasting than comparing. The difference in the fruit suggests to me that the Sociando has a much longer life ahead of it. Incidentally, I didn’t notice any roasted fruit.
I really enjoyed your thread on the 2000, but unfortunately don’t have any in my cellar-just 1998, 2002, 2003 and 2005.
Serious Ted, track down the 2000. IMHO it is superior to those you mention, and I own all of them except the 2002. I am seeking more 2000. I have quite a bit of the '03 but had to hide it off-site as I was sucking it down like Koolaide.
2004 left bank is one of my favorite vintages of the 2000’s
And I have one LB’04…good to hear it’s coming along
My favorite is the 2004 SHL …this wine is a world beater
Don’t you think you have the question backwards? Isn’t it crazy this wine is $100+? Every Bordeaux vintage that doesn’t garner at least a dozen wines of 100 points is considered a “classic vintage”. Even James Suckling wrote a major article a year after the 2004s were released how this was vintage to take advantage of because it was “classic” and the prices were good. 2004 Montrose, Pontet Canet, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Leoville Las Cases all under $75 and Lascombes @ $25.
I hope 2014 is the new '04