TN: Carlisle Winemaker Dinner with Mike Officer

[brigcampbell]

Calling out the other note takers in attendance, Yo!

CARLISLE WINEMAKER DINNER WITH MIKE OFFICER - Luciana’s, Dana Point, CA (5/4/2014)

First, thanks to Mike for supporting this effort and providing a few of the wines and carving out the time to let us badger him. I know he doesn’t do many of these types of events so it’s greatly appreciated by everybody in attendance. FMIII did another amazing job of organizing the clan for dinner at Luciana’s in Dana Point. Below is a picture of the private cellar room where we hid for the evening, very nice atmosphere and terrific food. I typically don’t provide commentary on the food but I scratched out a few observations.

A few of the special guests.

House Salad w/Lemon Vinaigrette
Very simple yet perfectly paired salad with the white flight. I think the lemon vinaigrette beautifully complemented the acid of the wines.

• 2011 Carlisle Compagni Portis - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  Light straw color. Aromas of perfume, petrol, and yellow fruit. Medium weight, light spice, pear on the attack, high acid mid palate. Finishes with lots of lemon rind and just a ton of complexity. Reminds me of a Chenin.

• 2012 Carlisle Compagni Portis - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  Light straw color. Nose is tight compared to the '11 with a whiff of yellow pear. Flavors of lemon rind, musk, and medium plus acidity. Good complexity.

16 months on lees, no oak, and no malo.

Butternut Squash Ravioli w/brown butter sauce
Brown butter sauce, you could pour that over gravel and it’d be tasty. The squash had a real freshness to it and it wasn’t over cooked into mush. Had a bit of pumpkin flavors too, I like pumpkin.

• 2008 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Dark garnet. Nose is red berries and bright strawberry. Tastes like dark plum, spice, black pepper, and raspberry. Medium acid and showed a touch of heat in the back of the mouth on the finish. Good stuff. Mike said this vineyard saw a late frost and only produced 1/2 ton per acre.

• 2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Less aggressive than the '08, probably a sign of the vintage which produced great wines across the board for my palate. Red fruit aromas. Acid is showing with lots of fruit, cherry, rapsbery, and blackberry. Medium finish and a soft mouthfeel.

Garlic Roasted Chicken Breast w/Rosemary
Wow, this was nice. Had the consistency of pork and the roasted garlic and rosemary… Says it all.

• 2009 Carlisle Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  Darker than the previous flight. Intriguing nose. Good palate, coffee, chalk, and blackberry. Nice mineral backbone. Mocha on the finish and the tannins are rounded out.

• 2010 Carlisle Zinfandel Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Kooky Fanucchi! Carlisle doesn’t make wine from this vineyard any longer, it’s mixed blacks. Very dark color. Mulded red berries on the nose. Medium spice and blackberry fruit. Very spicy, long finish. Seems like this is high octane.

• 2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Papera Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Lighter garnet color compared to the others in the flight. Aromas of mushroom and dried moss. Delicious rhubarb and red fruit flavors. Light and nibble in the mouth. Medium finish. I liked this one the best and the feminine nature is appealing.

Intermezzo

• 2000 Carlisle Mondeuse Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Can’t get this wine anymore, there we’re only 100 vines in the Two Acres vineyard until Mike ran one over with his tractor, then there were 99. He then decided to rip them out which he wishes he didn’t now. So do we. Only 25 cases made and this was from a magnum.

Very dark, big muscles. I’m getting pine needles, black fruit, anise, licorice, chalky note, and firm tannins. Nice grip on the long finish. While this still has plenty of structure it’s nicely balanced.

Lamb Shank w/fried sage
This was very good. I thought it was short ribs, that’s a good thing.

• 2007 Carlisle Syrah Papa’s Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Big wine. Moss and dark fruit aromas. Palate of spice, black and red fruit, with a medium oak toast. Even some blueberry flavors. Beautiful, extremely long finish.

• 2011 Carlisle Syrah Papa’s Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Lightest color in the flight of Papa’s which is a theme for '11. Not giving up much on the nose. Sweet blackberry and a delicate palate. Drinking beautifully right now.

• 2012 Carlisle Syrah Papa’s Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Young and vibrant. Sweet blackberry and great complexity. Medium plus finish. Young wine but this will be fantastic and it’s drinking well now.

Polenta Salciccia
The grilled polenta with loads of butter, very decadent. The sausage was nice and lacked any of the gristle or fat you find in cheaper sausage.

• 2006 Carlisle Syrah Cardiac Hill - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
  Muted nose. Getting that cold climate syrah protein with an ash note and nice minerality. Medium plus finish. Unique compared to other carlisle syrah.

• 2007 Carlisle Syrah Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  I have an emotional attachment to this wine because it was the first Carlisle I ever purchased. It was nice to hear Mike kick off the story of this flight with the comment “I’ve always really liked this wine.” Hey, even FMIII loves this one. Dark fruit and cedar, good acidity and perfect balance. Medium plus finish. Hall of Fame QPR.

• 2008 Carlisle Syrah James Berry Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
  This was very popular with the crowd. Really opaque and some more moss on the nose. I picked up moss on a number of wines. All goodness. Beautifully pure wine. Sweet red and blackberries wrapped up with fine tannins. Great balance.

Dark Chocolate Cheesecake w/raspberries
There’s raspberry flavored cheese filling layered with the chocolate. Great consistency and strong berry flavor. Held up to the petite sirah.

• 2004 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume
  This has a high yum factor. Medium plus sweetness with enough acid to provide a light mouthfeel mid palate. Sweet lemon and citrus with a tab of honeysuckle flowers.

• 2007 Carlisle Petite Sirah Yorkville Highlands - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
  I was expecting to get whacked by this wine. I’ve tasted a few other PS from '07 from various producers and they were very concentrated. Not this wine. While there is still a chambord quality it’s balanced with the garrigue and fine tannins. Surprisingly balanced.

Here’s a great piece of nostalgia, Frank brought the very first mailing list flyer he every received way back in 2002. In those days Mike folded, stuffed, and addressed every envelope himself. Ah, the glamour and romance of being a winemaker! The good news is it all seems to be working out for Carlisle.

Posted from CellarTracker

[Frank_Murray_III]

Brig, well documented as you consistently do for us. Thank you for being the Recording Secretary, and fine illustrator.

I enjoyed this dinner and it was great to finally help pull together the loose ends to make this go. In the past, the LA gang who have customarily hosted Mike down for many years were kind to invite me several times, although I was not able to make those events so to finally get one anchored here to the OC was terrific.

I overstacked this event, out of disorganization admittedly but the end result was the table was full and those who have known Mike over the years and who have dilligently supported him as he has grown over the last 17 vintages all took a seat! I can’t claim to have been with Mike as a customer since the beginning, although it’s been pretty much most of the way, as shown in that paper mailer above. I hung onto that sucker since 2002 (along with one from Novy that one day I will show Adam when we get him down here).

With Mike, you get a really smart guy, who is both intuitive about wine as well as technically smart. I have always liked these qualities in him, and I have truly appreciated the keys to what I believe has made him successful: his commitment to always take care of the customer and engender long-lasting customer relationships and through that, keep his prices more than fair and very reasonable. Humility in the face of success is what I appreciate about him.

With Mike’s history, it’s extremely challenging to survey his body of work, as the breadth is quite wide. It would take an extensive series of tastings to just study all of it so we decided to start somewhere last night, with dedicated flights to Papa’s and Carlisle Vineyard, then a couple flights of groups favorites. It worked well, and although the pours were pinched back (my fault), I thought the evening went well.

My notes follow below, a bit abbreviated as I hoenstly do better with 1-2 wines over a span of time versus many in a short span (one of the reasons too that I don’t believe in the critics who drink many wines in a tight timeline and then report out their impressions. To me, this is flawed.)

To all that came last night, and to Mike for making the time to be with us, a big THANK YOU!

• 2011 Carlisle Compagni Portis - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  Tasted alongside the 2012. This 2011 shows leaner, more acid playing into tjhe flavor, too. Lemon/lime, ginger and a lean guava/papaya.
• 2012 Carlisle Compagni Portis - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  Tasted alongside the 2011, with that wine being leaner whereas this 2012 is texturally a bit fatter, yet balanced. The texture is glossy, polished with peach and tangerine and nutty finish. Both vintages drink great so it will depend on what kind of palate texture you will prefer.
  
  
  
• 2008 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Tasted alongside the 2011, as both wines anchored the 2nd course that was butternut squash ravioli. My notes show a big star, which is my symbol I make during wine pairing dinners when I find a wine that really stands out. There is a crunchy, zesty expression of red fruits that is balanced–acid, fruit and length is all in harmony. This is in a great place right now.
• 2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Tasted alongside the 2008, as both wines anchored the 2nd course that was butternut squash ravioli. I found this richer in flavor than the 2008, with vanilla, red and black fruits and a finish that is jammier than that wine, too.
  
  
  
• 2009 Carlisle Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
  I found this quite spicy, underscoring this aspect in my notes. Has a richness but also great depth, too. Big blackberry fruit.
• 2010 Carlisle Zinfandel Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This was my least preferred in the flight, as it went as the middle wine between the 2009 Monte Rosso and the 2011 Papera, both zinfandel. The Fanucchi showed berry jam, higher alcohol, iron and some heat. The challenge I have with bigger wines like this is the alcohol. This is why in this flight I preferred the 2011 Papera, for its better balance.
• 2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Papera Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This was the winner of the flight, beating out the 2009 Monte Rosso and leaving the 2010 Fanucchi in last position. The Papera shows silky, juicy and polished. I love the balance and like the 2008 Carlisle Carlisle from the previous flight, this Papera shows a zesty quality with red fruits. As much as the 2011 vintage was tough on many, Mike found a way to make a grat bottle of Papera.
  
  
  
• 2000 Carlisle Mondeuse Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Hey hey, this has held up great. Cork broke in 1/2 on opening but after getting the other 1/2 loose, the wine pours with no browning edges at all. Instead, pure red that is just moderately dark but more lighter ruby. Inside? Acid, red fruits, fresh and youthful. I’d simply have no basis for calling this wine 15 years old if served blind, as that is how fresh it tastes right from the magnum. Maybe air will cause this to change directions but first look, this is really good. Nice lithe finish, with sweet cherry fruit and a kiss of tannin…and then again at dinner, the wine continues to excel with the fresh and juicy notes of strawberry. Such great purity. To bad these wines are no longer making wine, as they were taken out and replaced with Mourvedre, as part of the Two Acres plot that Mike continues to farm and bottle.
  
  
  
• 2007 Carlisle Syrah Papa’s Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This was part of the 3 bottle Papa’s flight, joining the 2011 and 2012. Of the three, this 2007 is the most rich and full bodied. Iron, dark chocolate. My tastes have changed over the past few years and while I still enjoy this wine, I much preferred the raw material that was the 2012 last night. I appreciate that this wine got the attention of Wine Spectator some years ago, as it gave Mike the visibility to a far greater audience.
• 2011 Carlisle Syrah Papa’s Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This was part of the 3 bottle Papa’s flight, joining the 2007 and 2012. Of the three, this 2011 is the leanest, more rugged and the vintage here shows its presence. The aromatic is distinctive, as at first reminding me of alcohol but in thinking more about the wine last night, my thought is that the whole cluster and vintage defined the aromatic. I found some lavender and a juicier wine here and so for me, simply a leaner version of Papa’s.
• 2012 Carlisle Syrah Papa’s Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This was part of the 3 bottle Papa’s flight, joining the 2007 and 2011. Of the three, this 2012 is the most complete and was the best syrah I had last night. Juicy, with black olive, char, iron and light garrigue and some mineral tannin. Shows the dark fruit of Papa’s and I’m banking that this will become a great Papa’s, less richness of the 2007 and probably best suited to age well and drink terrific with time to come.
  
  
  
• 2007 Carlisle Syrah Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  This has always been a favorite of mine, a wine that I have written about many times in the past and still own several bottles. At $20, just nuts. Even paying 2X that price a year or so back to source a few more, it didn’t matter as this is such a great bottle of wine. Bit of funk on the nose, with irion and garrigue. The palate shows more iron, dark chcoolate and olive. This is aging well and last night, this also beat the 2007 Papa’s Block that we had in the preceding flight.
• 2006 Carlisle Syrah Cardiac Hill - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
  By this point in the meal, I was starting to fade a bit. I found a hint of pepper and some nice balance but my notes admittedly here are crappy.
• 2008 Carlisle Syrah James Berry Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
  Been a while since I had one of these. I stopped buying syrah that lies south of the Santa Lucia Highlands, as I just find the wines too large for my tastes. Wasn’t sure what to expect here but I’ll say this went well with the polenta sausage dish we paired it with for the flight. The food really pulled out the blue fruit in the wine. There is also purple flowers, mint and what I thiought was some heat.
  
  
  
• 2007 Carlisle Petite Sirah Yorkville Highlands - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
  Iron, roasted dark berry and tannin. By the time I got to this wine, my palate was about shot. !
• 2004 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume
  I appreciated Arnie brining this as a surprise. I already love chenin so to taste it in a dessert form is a nice treat. Lemon brulee and good balance here.

Posted from CellarTracker

[Larry_P]

Amazing dinner! Thanks for the notes guys!

[Brian_Tuite]

Wow! Thanks for sharing!

[Glenn_L_e_v_i_n_e]

Nice work you two! Hard not to drink Carlisle every week. If you do you don’t get tired of pulling 'em!

[Russ_Williams]

Great write up guys! Thanks for sharing. What happened to the Rosella’s?

[Ed_Steinway]

Nice notes, nice pictures and great wines! I need to pop the cork on one of my '11 Carlisle Vineyards Zins.

Thanks,
Ed

[Jody_Smith]

Man, I am so envious of those in attendance. The food looks great and it goes without saying, but sensational wines. It must have been a treat to have Mike in attendance with commentary on his wines. We know he certainly doesn’t need to do any kind of promotional events. I would’ve loved to try that Mondouse, but I can’t complain, composing this reply over a glass of Papa’s. Good show Frank, and Thanks Mike for sharing your labor of love with the rest of us.

[brigcampbell]

@Jody Smith

I would’ve loved to try that Mondouse, but I can’t complain, composing this reply over a glass of Papa’s. Good show Frank, and Thanks Mike for sharing your labor of love with the rest of us.

Chris Seiber will chime in here soon with his notes, we were sitting together with our wife’s and he made the comment “from now on I want my nickname to be ‘mondouse’ it just sounds cool.”

I said if you’re going to have any street cred you need to spell it “Mon2” for mon-deuce. Great wine and I didn’t know it existed until it was poured. A real treat.

Mon2, where are you?

[Chris_Seiber]

The MonII has had a wife down with the flu today and young kids to entertain and cook for. Hopefully, I can get my notes (pompous or otherwise) up tomorrow.

Huge thanks in the meantime to Frank Murray and to Mike Officer for that event. Just wow.

[Frank_Murray_III]

Omg, I dig the M2 reference. Counselor, I would ask for your endorsement that this is your official wine gloss. “M2”. Fresh. Only the two of you cats could cook this up.

[Robert_Kenney]

Mike’s such a cool guy. Looks like everyone had a great time. What a freaking night!

Best,

Kenney

[Mike_Grammer]

@Jody Smith

Man, I am so envious of those in attendance. The food looks great and it goes without saying, but sensational wines. It must have been a treat to have Mike in attendance with commentary on his wines. We know he certainly doesn’t need to do any kind of promotional events. I would’ve loved to try that Mondouse, but I can’t complain, composing this reply over a glass of Papa’s. Good show Frank, and Thanks Mike for sharing your labor of love with the rest of us.

• 1 in every regard. Look at all those proud soldiers in that pic with all the bottles! Great write-up, looking forward to the impressions from others.

kwa heri,

Mike

[M_Officer]

Wow! Impressive write-up Brigg! Kendall really enjoyed it as well as now she can see exactly what I had for dinner. Big props to Frank for doing such a terrific job organizing the dinner, and for including meat courses despite not being a meat eater! Great to reconnect with some old friends as well as meeting new ones. A terrific evening! Thank you everyone!

[Sean_Kennedy]

Kathy and I want to thank all in attendance as we extremely enjoyed the food, wine, and company. Awesome notes Brig and Frank. A special thanks to Frank for put this together, and to Mike for taking the time to share his passion for wine making. Tusind Tak, Mike!!!

[Sherr1_Shap1r0]

Thanks so much for sharing. Over the years, Carlisle has become the #1 producer in my cellar inventory, and as someone mentioned above, I pretty much do seem to pull one of Mike’s bottles every week or two. Love the wines and would be in heaven attending an event like this one!

[Arnold_Caplan]

IMPOSSIBLE to figure out what was the best part of the night…Mike? His wines? The food? The company?
Frank, thanks again for another fantastic evening.

[Arnold_Caplan]

IMPOSSIBLE to figure out what was the best part of the night…Mike? His wines? The food? The company?
Frank, thanks again for another fantastic evening.