TN: Cali Cults in CLT thru the decades (MacDonald, Scarecrow, Bond, Schrader and more)

CALI CULTS IN CLT THRU THE DECADES (MACDONALD, SCARECROW, BOND, SCHRADER AND MORE) - Charlotte, NC (4/12/2022)

Our tasting group met at The Fig Tree restaurant for a fantastic trip through Cult Napa Cabernets from the prior four decades. All wines were genuinely phenomenal with a distinct chasm plainly on display between the stylings of “Classic” Napa and “Modern” Napa.

Wines and styles that made Napa famous
“Classic” Napa was on full display with these legendary beauties. I had to really pace myself on this flight as these were fabulous and ready to go from the start. Possibly the lack of an excessively long finish on any of the wines contributed to any hastiness but it would have been easy for these wines to disappear in minutes absent serious will-power.

  • 1984 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23 - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
    Decanted 90 minutes before serving. After 30 minutes of air, back into the bottle and served from the bottle. Aromas of rustic red cherries, cassis, and hints of tobacco. Palate was soft, elegant, and delicate. Light-weight yet nicely-flavored – currants dark cherry. Mature but still drinking in its optimal window for a balanced and “old world”-styled Napa Cabernet. Delicious wine and tasty finish. Brilliant showing. Tied for 2nd in WIne of the Night (WOTN) voting while receiving one vote for WOTN.
  • 1985 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
    Decanted 90 minutes before serving. After 30 minutes of air, back into the bottle and served from the bottle. Perfect companion to the ‘84 Cask 23. Aromas of rustic cherries and raspberries. The nose continued to evolve distinctly and brilliantly to Burgundian. On the palate, earthy plums danced wonderfully. Well-balanced between primary and secondary notes with a weighting towards secondary. Medium length finish for this brilliant wine. The Burgundian nose as the evening wore on really stole the show for me on this wine. I absolutely loved it. One vote WOTN. Finished fourth in WOTN voting.
  • 1995 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
    Opened 3 hours before serving and decanted immediately. Re-decanted due to tightness for 1.5 hours before back in the bottle. Muted nose at 3 hours but rich, balanced flavors on the palate. Despite the lack of aromas initially this wine was fantastic immediately but opened meaningfully – reaching greater heights – as the night wore on. Well-balance between primary and secondary notes, with a decided lean towards mature primary – black cherry, cassis, and currants. Medium finish. One vote for WOTN.
    Note: cork was a mess with difficult extraction. Rotten maybe? Regardless the wine was magnificent.

A Whole New World
Welcome to “Modern” Napa and wines built for power and finesse. These are not your Grandfather’s Napa Cabernets.

  • 2005 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
    Opened four hours in advance and decanted immediately for 2 hours before back in the bottle.
    Opulent yet elegant nose of young raspberries and currants. Feathery softness billowing over your tongue on the mouthfeel. Classic Scarecrow. Smooth. Purity of blue and black fruit make this an amazing wine. Big and bold flavors delivered with the delicacy of a new born baby. 15.4 alcohol and you would never have guessed that – no heat. Long finish. Lacking the complexity of “classic” Napa but a brilliant representation of modern Napa winemaking at its best. First place for Wine of the Night and received 4 votes for WOTN.
    Note: Cork began to tear towards the bottom on extraction. Would recommend Durand or Ah-so to be safe.
  • 2006 Bond Melbury - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Opened four hours in advance and double decanted. Rich aromas of dark fruits – blackberry and cassis. On the palate this was a thicker wine following the Scarecrow and somewhat viscous. Leathery tannins with some grippiness. A full-flavored and big wine with the most complexity in this flight – rich balance between red and black fruits. A super-tasty wine that paired best in the line-up with the Elk Chop meal. Great tonight with likely improvement in the coming years as tannins further integrate and flavors blossom, All this needs is time. 14.5 alcohol
  • 2007 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon CCS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Decanted 5.5 hours in advance and left in the decanter for 3 hours before back in bottle for slow-ox until serving. Opulent aromatic nose of dusty red raspberries. Plush on the mouthfeel – notes of black currants and mocha balance against a gentle minerality. Intense and pure modern Napa fruit. Maturing tannins provide delightful texture against the full-bodied dark-fruit flavor of this wine. If you like Thomas Rivers Brown and Schrader, this is a wine for you. Great now with years of life ahead of it. 14.5 alcohol

The Bold and the Beautiful
New decade, same brilliance.

  • 2014 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Opened eleven hours in advance and decanted for 8.5 hours. Then back in the bottle and re-corked in a temperature controlled cellar until dinner. A couple hours of air at dinner before serving. Opulent aromas of blackberry and anise pop from the glass. On the palate wonderful flavors of plums, blackberry, and some red fruits. Distinct “graham cracker” feel that is so enjoyable when delivered properly. Smooth and full-flavored yet lacking the heated intensity (in a good way) of modern Napa Cabernet. Classic To Kalon fruit woven brilliantly with some spice notes for good measure. Elegant yet powerful with a long finish. Lived up to the hype. Tied for 2nd in WIne of the Night (WOTN) voting while receiving one vote for WOTN.
  • 2014 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
    Decanted 10 hours in advance with three hours of air before back in bottle and recork; Placed in the refrigerator until transported to dinner and a couple hours of air at dinner before serving. Aromatic but delicate notes of eucalyptus with red raspberry and cherries. On the palate this was smooth and tasty with a healthy balance between primary and secondary notes for such a young wine. This was a full-fruited wine with blackberry, bramble and currant flavors. Delicious and drinking great, this wine has decades of life in it.

No one style was superior to the other as personal preference is the true separator among these giants of wine. All in all it was an embarrassment of riches with our group drinking nearly every last drop from each bottle (accidentally leaving little for the staff) due to the amazing quality of wine on this night.
Posted from CellarTracker


10 Likes

Sounds like an epic evening!

great idea for a tasting
love seeing the varying styles together and all showing well
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Great lineup, what happened to the Scarecrow label?

That was my wine.

I used to own one of those Coravin alternatives and it didn’t seal properly. The wine was above the Scarecrow in my Eurocave and leaked. It bled onto the Scarwcrow label.

Needless to say I only use Coravin now.

Do these big, modern Napa Cabs evolve much or ever turn the corner into a complex, mature wine? I’ve had some older, classic Napa Cabs and modern styled Napa reds from the last 10 or so years, but I have very limited experience with older modern style Napa reds.

Love tastings like this! Really fun to compare and contrast.
100% agree with your sentiment below. I don’t love every style of Napa Cab but you’re trying too hard if you can’t find something to enjoy in each wine in this lineup.

Nice lineup! Love Fig Tree, never had a bad meal.

Cool tasting. Love how you put it re: stylistic differences. Seems like a pretty good approach to wine in general [cheers.gif]

Whoa, what an awesome lineup. Is this tasting group taking on new members? I live in Pinehurst, but have to admit I don’t own any wines that can compete in that league

Lovely tasting. Thanks for sharing.

That’s an incredible lineup at an incredible restaurant. Hopefully you were able to ordered off Fig Tree’s wine list too, its top notch.

Man, what an awesome tasting! Thank you very much for posting!

And I hear you on only using a Coravin. Assuming the faulty product was a Pungo, yeah? Have heard quite a few ‘not so great’ stories about that device.

What a great line up…and the quality of the notes is just as great! [cheers.gif]

I also have limited experience with older modern style Napa reds but I have not found the ones I have had to turn the corner into complex, mature wines the ways the classics do. Most of the California Cabs in my cellar are more of the classic types therefore and thus I do have more experience with them.

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Personally, I’d be curious to see how MacDonalds develop long term.

My view is only time will tell and it is still too soon to render final judgement. The modern Napa Cabs only became a consistent, more formulaic product beginning with the 2001 vintage. That only gives two decades of evidence when we are comparing them to Bordeaux wines that typically only begin entering their drinking window at year 20. We have growing evidence that big Napa Cabs that have yet to develop complexity may never develop the complexity of 1980s Cabs and Bordeaux but I still think we are five to ten years away from rendering a more certain determination.

Yup.

Very kind of you. Thanks.

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