TN: Burgundy and Champagne

Burgundy and Champagne

Noreetuh, NYC

A mid-week special for me to be able to join this fun dinner and drinks at Noreetuh in the East Village. As usual, service and food pacing were on point and with sufficient not-overwhelming food volume that was complementary with, and not distract from, imbibing on some good drinks.

2004 Vilmart & Cie ‘Coeur de Cuvée’ Premier Cru
Complete. Mineral, fruit, toast, apples, grippy acidity. A-

Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle 25
Intense, but youthful. White fruit, bright acid, long. B+

2014 Pierre Pieters Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs
Tight but showed enough exuberance, liveliness, citrus. More cellar time. B+

1999 Vincent Couche Champagne Sensation Extra Brut
The intense stages of the other champagnes may have dominated the tastebuds, but this provided the good segue to the white Burgundy flights that followed. Even though it came across as lean and slightly short on the finish, provides sufficient nuances. B

2013 Domaine Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Le Preuses Grand Cru
Fresh, citrus pop, rounded ripe fruit, delicious stone component. A-

2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru
Riper and slight lushness. Meyer lemon, earth and good length. B+

2014 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroie 1er Cru
Approachable. Relatively dialed down in acidity and overall intensity. B/B+

1979 Domaine Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er Cru rouge
Started off in the glass with muscled finesse and still lively red fruit, meat broth. Appear to lose a step after some time and with clipped finish. B/B+

1995 Domaine Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er Cru rouge
Slight lushness, all components seems melded together. Drink up. B

2002 Domaine Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er Cru rouge
Off bottle. NR

1999 Domaine Roumier Chambolle-Musigny
Producers do count and this did stand out among the reds. Balance. Firm ripe fruit, savory, spice and delicious finish. A-

2001 Robert Chevilion Nuits Saint Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru
A backup for the 2002 Drouhin Mouches. Appealing bouquet, bursts of acidity, red and blue fruit, sweet tannin, and good length. No rush with still-cellared bottles. A-


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Thanks Ramon. Mostly similar views:

Thursday jumped on train and went down to Noreetuh for dinner with friends. We started with musubi (yellowtail, scallop, pork jowl, galbi) and skewers (pork belly and beef).
2004 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee.
Green apple, citrus peel, toast, chalk. Full with good acids. A-

1999 Vincent Couche Champagne Sensation
New producer to me. Apparently on lees 15-20 years before disgorgement! Apple,lemon, brioche, and a portobello note that I assume is from the long aging. Relatively fine mousse, quite interesting. B/B+
NV Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle No 25 (2008 base )
I somewhat liked this to start, but with an hour of hour it was really singing. Bright, taut, long. Nice fruit with sourdough aromas, minerally finish. A-

2014 Pierre Peters Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs
Bright acids, a bit coiled, potential but not easiest to drink right now. B for now, but potential pretty high ?

Fried chicken (with mac salad and Kings rolls), crab fried rice
2013 Dauvissat-Camus Les Preuses Chablis Grand Cru
Lemons, grapefruit, and oyster shells, really beautiful. A-
2014 Niellon Clos de la Maltroie Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
I found this surprisingly light for vintage, not dilute, but without the power I expected. Still, a very pleasant glass of Chardonnay! B/B+

2013 Leflaive Clavoillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er
Citrus, chalk, and light vanilla, good balance, very good length. B+/A-

Steak with enoki and bok choy
1979 Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er
I’ve had great bottles of this, but it’s been a while, and I think this one was probably better a decade ago. Still, really fun to try, with a deep core of fruit and good acids, but nose dominated by beef broth/soy, which gets a bit of a touch of balsamic with time. B

1995 Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er
Red fruit, fennel seed, some remaining tannin, acids a bit spiky. Seems to calm a bit, rounding out and putting on weight, but this isn’t a fave vintage of Mouches. B

2002 Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er
Ramon brought the Chevillon after opening this and finding it off. We tried anyway, there was definitely something off, cooked fruit, lack of vitality, not a representative bottle.

1999 Roumier Chambolle-Musigny
Elegant, delicate, but with verve.Red cherries, sandalwood, anise. Lovely, incredible for 23 year old village. A-

2001 Chevillon LesVaucrains Nuits St Georges 1er
Ramon certainly scored with his replacement. Perfumed nose. Mostly resolved tannin, clear but integrated acid, black cherry with earth, coffee, and incense, I really loved (more than group I think). A-

Very fun night. Not best night for Mouches, but it remains one of my favorite Burgs, just need the right bottles. Very fun crowd, great food, good times.

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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You guys are tough graders. That Dauvisat was an A+ IMO and the Chevillon was a solid A. Great to see everyone.

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