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2018 Domaine de la Cras (Marc Soyard) Bourgogne Blanc Coteaux de Dijon - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (10.5.2021)
From the lower part of the biodynamically farmed Le Grand Bessy vineyard, planted in 1985 next to the city of Dijon. The region the wine is from was named “Coteaux de Dijon”, but since it is not an official appellation - at least yet - the wine is actually AOC Bourgogne. At the moment Marc Soyard is the only producer making Coteaux de Dijon wines. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 10-12 months in used oak barrels. Vinified with minimum sulfites. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale yellow-green color with the slightest hint of haze. Cool, sappy and slightly sharp nose with aromas of crunchy Granny Smith apple and fresh gooseberry, some leesy notes, a little bit of salty ocean air, light bretty notes of phenolic spice, a subtly lifted hint of sweet VA and a touch of rustic funk. The wine obviously isn’t particularly modern or polished in style, but fortunately it isn’t excessively natty either. The wine feels ripe, round and juicy on the palate, but also enjoyably firm, bright and focused at the same time. Precise flavors of ripe white peach and greengage, some apple notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light leesy notes of creaminess, a sappy herbal spice and a touch of bretty funk. The acidity feels moderately high, making the wine feel balanced and quite structured. The finish is ripe, juicy and slightly sweet-toned with quite long flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple and white peach, some cantaloupe, light stony mineral tones, a little bit of tangy salinity and a touch of creaminess.
A very enjoyable, tasty and sophisticated Bourgogne Blanc. A bit from the ripe end of the spectrum with a very fruit-forward nature, but fortunately the wine sports good acidity so it retains great sense of balance. There’s an obviously wild side to this wine, but fortunately it doesn’t get too sauvage at any point, so the funkier tones only add to the complexity, not overwhelm any finer nuances. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if this wine started to turn mousy if it was kept open for too long, so I wouldn’t decant it for extended periods of time. Comparing this to the “Cras” Monopole 2018, I found this entry-level wine to be more balanced with its brighter acidity and more focused fruit department. Nice stuff, drinking well right now and will probably continue to improve for at least some years, although I wouldn’t buy this wine for the really long haul. (88 pts.)
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2018 Domaine de la Cras (Marc Soyard) Bourgogne Blanc Coteaux de Dijon ‘Cras’ - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (10.5.2021)
From the upper part of the biodynamically farmed Le Grand Bessy vineyard, planted in 1983 next to the city of Dijon. The region the wine is from was named “Coteaux de Dijon”, but since it is not an official appellation - at least yet - the wine is actually AOC Bourgogne. At the moment Marc Soyard is the only producer making Coteaux de Dijon wines, which is why the wine is labeled “Monopole”. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 15 months in oak barrels (50% new). Vinified with minimum sulfites. 14,5% alcohol.
Very slightly hazy pale yellow color. Rich and quite opulent nose, noticeably bigger than that of the basic Domaine de la Cras Blanc 2018 that was tasted alongside; lush, layered aromas of red apples and mirabelle plums, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of pineapple and cantaloupe, light toasty notes of caramel, a hint of creaminess and a touch of plantain. The wine is broad, full-bodied and rather fat on the palate with bold flavors of sweet Golden Delicious apple and white peach, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of pineapple, light steely mineral tones, a hint of toasty oak spice and a sweet touch of lifted VA. The medium acidity feels quite soft; it keeps the wine somewhat in balance, but the overall feel is lacking if freshness and focus. The finish is juicy, round and somewhat sweet-toned with medium-long flavors of fresh golden apple, some leesy notes of creaminess, a little bit of white peach, light stony mineral tones, a hint of savory oak spice and a sweet touch of mirabelle plums. The high alcohol lends a bit warmth to the aftertaste.
A very big, ripe and soft Chardonnay - a bit too fat and weighty for my taste. Although the acidity manages to keep the wine somewhat in balance, the wine as a whole is lacking freshness, vibrancy and precision. This is not a bad wine, but it doesn’t manage to impress either. Needs to be served very cool so that the lush fruit isn’t really so in-your-face and the acidity gets more prominence. Not really a wine I’d buy for aging - probably best if drunk within the next handful of years. (85 pts.)
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2019 Domaine de la Cras (Marc Soyard) Bourgogne L’Equilibriste - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (10.5.2021)
From the biodynamically farmed En Bessy vineyard, planted between 1983 and 2001 right outside the city of Dijon. Fermented spontaneously in whole clusters using semi-carbonic vinification. Aged for 10-12 months in used oak barrels. Vinified without any sulfites. 13% alcohol.
Dark yet moderately translucent crimson color with a subtly purplish hue. Youthful, almost primary - but also somewhat closed and slightly stuffy - nose with subtly funky aromas of reductive gunpowder smoke, some crunchy dark forest fruits, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light skunky notes of reduction, a hint of game and a lifted touch of VA. The wine feels ripe, fruit-forward and ever-so-slightly fizzy on the palate with flavors of wild strawberries, some fresh red cherries, light zesty chinotto notes of brett, a little bit of reductive flint smoke, a hint of earthy funk and a sharp, volatile touch of acetic VA. The rather high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance, while the tannins are quite friendly and easy, only so slightly grippy. The finish is juicy, rather primary and medium in length with fruity flavors of ripe black raspberries and boysenberries, some wild strawberries, a little bit of phenolic spice, light estery banana notes of isoamyl acetate, a hint of bretty funk and a sharp touch of acetic VA. The tannins make the wine end on a very slightly grippy note.
A somewhat sauvage or even slightly natty Bourgogne Rouge that feels like it is lacking its sense of place due to the winemaking (or the lack of it). While the wine is fresh and drinkable, it really doesn’t show much varietal character and the subtle fizz and slightly acetic overtones of VA really don’t make the wine feel particularly “Burgundian”. I guess some aeration could fix the issues with the CO2 and reduction, but I’m always wary in letting these natty wines breathe, because they all too often start to turn mousy with oxygen - and this wine really feels like it could get mousy with air. I must admit I’m not particularly thrilled by this wine. (81 pts.)
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2018 Domaine de la Cras (Marc Soyard) Bourgogne Montre Cul - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (10.5.2021)
From biodynamically farmed plots located in the very steep Montre Cul (“show-your-butt”) vineyard, located right next to the city of Dijon. Fermented spontaneously; 70% in whole bunches using carbonic maceration, 30% traditionally. Aged for 15 months in used oak barrels. Vinified with minimum sulfites. Only three barrels (i.e. approximately 900 bottles) made. 12,5% alcohol.
Dark yet moderately translucent crimson color with a deep ruby core. The nose feels quite ripe and somewhat sweet-toned, but also a bit closed and reticent. Restrained aromas of boysenberries and black raspberries, some cherry marmalade, light notes of savory wood spice, a little bit of wild, funky lift and a hint of gamey meat. The wine is dry, quite light-bodied and vivid on the palate with ripe yet surprisingly crunchy flavors of black raspberries, cranberries and crowberries, some juicy black cherries, a little bit of stony minerality, light inky tones, a hint of sappy herbal spice and a touch of savory oak spice. Overall the taste shows remarkable intensity compared to the relatively understated nose. The overall feel is firm and structured, thanks to the high acidity and quite light yet surprisingly stern medium tannins. The finish is quite long, juicy and somewhat grippy with focused flavors of black cherries and brambly raspberries, some gamey meat, a little bit of fresh blueberry, light tart notes of cranberries, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of savory wood spice.
The nose here didn’t promise much, but the wine turned out to be simply wonderful on the palate. Although there’s some obvious ripeness - which is to be expected from a 2018 Burgundy - the wine still felt pleasantly cool, fresh and crunchy all the same. The overall feel is still quite youthful and even somewhat nervous, so I can imagine the nose will open up as the wine ages. Although drinking nicely, I’m positive this wine won’t show its best until it is at least 10 years old. So far the best Domaine de la Cras wine - it certainly shows the slightly sauvage edge typical of the winery, but doesn’t come across as natty as some wines. Good stuff. (92 pts.)
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2018 Domaine de la Cras (Marc Soyard) Bourgogne Coteaux de Dijon ‘Cras’ - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (10.5.2021)
From the upper part of the biodynamically farmed En Bessy vineyard, planted in 1983 on the outskirts of the city of Dijon. The region the wine is from was named “Coteaux de Dijon”, but since it is not an official appellation - at least yet - the wine is actually AOC Bourgogne. At the moment Marc Soyard is the only producer making Coteaux de Dijon wines, which is why the wine is labeled “Monopole”. Fermented spontaneously in whole clusters with punch-downs. Aged for 12 months in oak barrels (partly new). Vinified with minimal sulfites. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 11,5% alcohol.
Quite deep and moderately dark but also rather translucent ruby color with a subtly blue hue. Open, dark-toned and slightly sauvage nose with aromas of blueberry-driven forest fruits, sweet boysenberries, some sous-bois, a little bit of peppery spice, light bretty notes of phenolic smoke and a hint of earth. Pleasantly nuanced overall feel. The wine feels quite ripe but also lively and relatively light-bodied on the palate with vivacious flavors of tart lingonberries and brambly black raspberries, some crunchy crowberries, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light bitter notes of phenolic spice, a hint of barnyard and a touch of leathery funk. The overall feel is balanced and quite sinewy, thanks to the high acidity and firm, gently grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish feels a bit more grippy compared to the midpalate, tapering into a long, dry and lively aftertaste of raspberries, tart cranberries, some crunchy crowberries, a little bit of leathery funk, light darker-toned notes of blueberries, a hint of earth and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A very nice, balanced and sophisticated Dijon red that combines ripe, dark-toned fruit with very light, crunchy and lively overall expression. Although the focus here is on the bright, berry-driven fruit, there are nice nuances of slightly sauvage bretty funk and toasty oak spice, which contribute nicely to the complexity, without overwhelming any fruit flavors. A harmonious and well-made effort. Somewhat wild, as Domaine de la Cras wines tend to be, but not excessively so. Good now and probably will continue to improve for at least a handful of years. (91 pts.)
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2018 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Liaison - Germany, Baden (10.5.2021)
Made with fruit sourced from 45-50 yo vineyards. Foot-stomped grapes, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, no added SO2, aged for a year in old, neutral barriques. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, quite translucent cherry red color - in a tasting of four Enderle & Moll Pinot Noirs, this was slightly darker than the other three wines. Sweet, somewhat dark-toned and rather natty nose with not entirely attractive aromas of sweet strawberries and black cherries, some unclean funky tones, light ethery notes of VA, a little bit of sharp acetic character and a nutty or grainy hint that suggest mousiness. The wine is quite ripe, medium-bodied and surprisingly concentrated for its size, but also dry, fresh and focused on the palate with flavors of wild strawberries and raspberry candies, crunchy redcurrants, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light stony mineral tones, a hint of peppery touch and a sharp touch of acetic VA. The structure relies more on the high and quite intense acidity than on the light and easy tannins. The finish is crisp, quite long and relatively clean with bright flavors of crunchy cranberries, tart lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light stony mineral tones and a sharp, vinegary hint of acetic VA.
This was a weird case! Normally natural wines can have a pure and attractive nose yet they turn out to be mousy on the palate - this wine instead had a funky and not entirely clean nose, but it turned out to be clean on the palate! So while the nose is not particularly attractive, the wine is enjoyably fresh and crunchy on the palate, showing a good combination of ripeness and intensity for such a light and delicate wine. It is a bit too high in VA for my preference, having a rather lifted nose and somewhat acetic streak running underneath the fruit, but otherwise this was quite nice. Not the most convincing vintage of Liaison I’ve tasted, but nevertheless much better than what I expected (feared) from the nose. (87 pts.)
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2019 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Muschelkalk - Germany, Baden (10.5.2021)
From a very old vineyard planted in the early 1950’s. Foot-stomped grapes, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, no added SO2, aged in old oak barrels sourced from Burgundy. Vinified with minimum sulfites. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale, quite thin and very translucent garnet red color with a slightly brick-red hue. Savory, dusty and slightly animal nose with aromas of dried cranberries, some earth, a little bit of spice cabinet, light funky farmhouse tones, a hint of leather and a touch of smoky earth. The wine feels dry, light-bodied and rather sauvage on the palate with rather pronounced streak of phenolic bitterness, followed by tart flavors of cranberries and lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of savory spice, light acetic notes of vinegary VA and a hint of baked oats - yet nothing on mousiness, yet. The structure relies more on the fresh, high acidity than on the very light and easy tannins. The acid-driven finish is dry and crunchy with medium-long flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of earth, light gravelly mineral tones and a hint of acetic roughness in the throat.
A somewhat disappointing bottling of Enderle & Moll’s Muschelkalk. It shows the freshness and intensity that is typical of the best bottlings, but the overall feel is somewhat anonymous, due to its rather natty acetic character, making the wine feel like a generic natural wine with excessively high levels of VA. Tasting this next to Muschelkalk’s vintage 2017, this 2019 was a rather disappointing. However, even though I was expecting some mousiness to emerge from the aftertaste, the wine remained pretty clean all the way until the end. Pretty pleasant stuff, but definitely nothing I’d fill my cellars with. There are better bottles of Enderle & Moll out there. (83 pts.)
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2017 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Muschelkalk - Germany, Baden (10.5.2021)
From a very old vineyard planted in the early 1950’s. Foot-stomped grapes, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, no added SO2, aged in old oak barrels sourced from Burgundy. Vinified with minimum sulfites. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, fully translucent and even somewhat thin ruby-red color. Ripe and very slightly evolved nose with layered aromas of wild strawberries and rowanberries, some meaty tones, a little bit of beetroot, light floral notes of violets, a hint of leathery funk and a lifted touch of sweet VA. The wine feels quite acid-driven, somewhat wild and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with somewhat restrained yet still quite intense flavors of sour cherries and tart red plums, some phenolic spice, a little bit of cooked strawberry, light stony mineral tones, a hint of savory smoke and a touch of meaty umami. The overall feel is quite clean for an Enderle & Moll wine with good, quite high acidity and light-to-medium tannins. The finish is dry, somewhat grippy and rather long with ripe flavors of strawberries, some sour red plums, a little bit of sweet, wizened red cherries, light stony mineral tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of leathery funk.
A pretty nice Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir - you can taste that the wine is vinified in a very hands-off fashion, yet it still is very clean and precise in style, showing good intensity throughout the taste even if the fruit isn’t that much to the fore. I can imagine the wine will continue to improve for a few years more, but seeing how it has started to already show some evolved characteristics (compared to the Enderle & Moll Pinot Noirs from 2018 and 2019 that were tasted alongside), I don’t see this wine capable of aging over long-term. Nice stuff, although nothing truly transcendental. (89 pts.)
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2017 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Buntsandstein - Germany, Baden (10.5.2021)
From a very old vineyard planted in the early 1950’s. Foot-stomped grapes, fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, no added SO2, aged in old oak barrels sourced from Burgundy. Vinified with minimum sulfites. 12,5% alcohol.
Quite thin and fully translucent ruby-red color. Quite open and expressive but also relatively un-fruity nose with savory aromas of burnt clay, wild strawberries, some red plum tones, a little bit of smoky phenolic spice, light funky leather notes and a lifted hint of balsamic VA. The wine is texturally silky, wonderfully acid-driven and light-to-medium-bodied on the palate with bright flavors of ripe raspberries and wild strawberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light notes of sour cherry bitterness, a sweet-toned hint of ripe red plums and a subtly acetic touch of balsamic VA. The overall feel is surprisingly stern with the high acidity and quite assertive, ample tannins. The finish is long, ripe and quite grippy with intense flavors of wild strawberries and sour red plums, some bretty notes of new leather and sweet exotic spices of cloves and vanilla pod, a little bit of barnyard funk, light cranberry tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a sweet, lifted touch of balsamic VA.
A tasty, sinewy and surprisingly serious effort for an Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir. There’s definitely some obvious “natural” overtones here with the aromas of bretty and at times even slightly acetic notes of VA - yet they never once manage to bother, as the emphasis is on the concentrated Pinosity, not on funk. The overall feel is pleasantly complex and despite the ripeness and muscular structure, the wine is remarkably fresh and light on its feel. Most likely the wine will continue to improve for many years more and keep good for even longer. Noticeably better than the Pinot Noir Muschelkalk 2017 and probably the best Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir I’ve tasted. Recommended. (92 pts.)
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2019 Domaine Chanterêves Bourgogne-Aligoté Les Chagniots - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (10.5.2021)
A single-vineyard Aligoté from a 0,17-hectare parcel. Fermented with indigenous yeasts using a pied de cuve. Aged for 12 months in mostly used oak barrels ranging from 228 to 600 liters in size. Bottled with a minimal addition of SO2. 13% alcohol.
Pale yellow color with youthful, greenish highlights. Cool, fragrant and quite precise nose with aromas of fresh apples and crunchy quince, some creamy tones that suggest oak aging, light waxy tones, a little bit of skunky reduction that blows off quickly and a hint of white currant. The wine is moderately full-bodied but also very firm, lively and acid-driven on the palate with good sense of concentration and intensity. Flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple and white currant, some tart lemony citrus fruit tones, light stony mineral tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of skunky reduction and a youthful touch of sweet, almost primary pear-driven fruit. Wonderfully firm and almost racy acid structure. The finish is long, crisp and mouth-cleansing with a layered aftertaste of tart lemony citrus fruit and fresh red apple, some tangy saline tones, a little bit of quince, light creamy tones and a hint of chalky mineral bitterness.
A very serious, nuanced and structure-driven Aligoté that shows remarkable sense of concentration and structure for the variety. The overall feel is crisp and still very youthful, although not particularly primary anymore. Drinking wonderfully right now, but I expect this wine will continue to improve for a good number of years as well. Although the vintage 2018 of this wine was already an excellent effort for an Aligoté, I think that this vintage is even better - this wine shows even more depth while the oak influence is kept very much to the background, whereas the 2018 vintage had slightly more oak influence. All in all, a terrific premium-quality Aligoté; highly recommended. (93 pts.)
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2018 Domaine Chanterêves Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10.5.2021)
Crushed as whole bunches. Fermented with indigenous yeasts using a pied de cuve. Aged for 12 months in used oak barrels ranging from 228 to 600 liters. Assembled in a stainless steel tank and left to marry for another 6 months or so. Bottled with a light filtration and a minimal SO2 addition. 13% alcohol.
Pale yellow color with youthful, greenish highlights; seems to form tiny bubbles on the inside of the glass. The nose feels yellow-toned, slightly sweet and a bit closed with restrained aromas of Golden Delicious apple, some apricots, light creamy oak tones, a little bit of savory old oak spice and a hint of ripe banana. Compared to the sweet-toned nose, the wine comes across as surprisingly dry, fresh and lean on the palate with quite intense and somewhat linear flavors of ripe yellow apples, some white peach, a little bit of tangy salinity, light savory notes of old oak spice and a hint of chalky minerality. At first the acidity feels bright and very high, but as the acidity seems to drop a little after awhile, I suspect there’s a bit of CO2 that blows off. However, even then the acidity feels quite high, making the wine retain nice sense of freshness and focus. The finish is ripe and juicy yet bright and lively with a long aftertaste of sweet Golden Delicious apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light white peach tones and a hint of saline minerality.
This wine came across lighter-bodied and more fresh than what its sweet-toned nose led to expect. I assume there’s a bit of CO2 in the wine, based on how its acidity feels slightly higher at first and on the tiny bubbles that slowly form on the inside of the glass. For a Meursault, this is not a big and flashy wine, but instead quite restrained and linear effort with more focus of clarity and freshness. Due to its young age, the wine feels still rather linear and perhaps a bit simple, but as the wine seems to show good potential for future development, I can expect the score to go up with age. A nice and enjoyable effort. (90 pts.)
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2018 Domaine Chanterêves Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Morgeots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (10.5.2021)
Crushed as whole bunches. Fermented with indigenous yeasts using a pied de cuve. Aged for 12 months in used 228-liter oak barrels. Assembled in a stainless steel tank and left to marry for another 6 months or so. Bottled with a light filtration and a minimal SO2 addition. 12,5% alcohol.
Rather pale yellow-green color. Ripe, fragrant and quite open nose with aromas of sweet red apples, some quince, a little bit of youthful pear, light creamy oak tones, a hint of white peach and a touch of waxy character. No obvious oak flavors. The wine feels ripe, dry and juicy on the palate with a rather full body. Flavors of white peach and sweet yellow apples, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light gooseberry tones and a zesty hint of ripe citrus fruits. The medium acidity doesn’t lend much freshness to the wine and makes the fruit lack some intensity. The finish is long and mouth-cleansing, but also rather soft and round with quite mild flavors of white peach, some ripe Golden Delicious apple, a little bit of white currant, light creamy tones and a hint of saline minerality.
A surprisingly mild, soft and simple 1er Cru Chassagne-Montrachet. The acidity feels a bit too low, making the wine lack in freshness and intensity. I love the crystalline, almost Chablis-like expression here, but the wine as a whole leaves a rather lukewarm impression due to its obvious ripeness and lack in acidity. I can imagine this could be a lovely wine in a cooler vintage, but now it suffers badly from the warm 2018 vintage. Very underwhelming compared to the Chantereves Meursault 2018 and Aligote Les Chagniots 2019 that were tasted alongside. (84 pts.)
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2018 Domaine Chanterêves Volnay Les Lurets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (10.5.2021)
100% whole bunch vinification. Fermented with indigenous yeasts using a pied de cuve. Macerated with the skins for 24 days. Aged for 14 months in 228-liter oak barrels (1/3 new). Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a minimal SO2 addition. 13,5% alcohol.
Youthful, fully translucent ruby red color with a subtly blueish hue. Youthful, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned nose with varietally correct aromas of cherries and ripe black raspberries, some earthy spice, a little bit of juicy blueberry and blackberry, light cranberry tones and a candied primary hint of fruit jellies. The wine feels ripe, fruit-forward and very juicy on the palate with clean, dry-ish flavors of ripe black raspberries and sweet cherries, some peppery spice, a little bit of tart cranberry, light blueberry tones, a hint of meaty umami and a touch of earthy spice. The alcohol shows a bit through. Balanced structure, thanks to the moderately high acidity and somewhat grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and quite long with slightly sweet-toned flavors of black cherries and raspberries, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light savory notes of umami and a subtle hint of sweet oak spice. The tannins make the wine end on a subtly grippy note.
A very nice, clean and juicy Volnay, but perhaps a bit too ripe and sweet-toned for my preference. There’s lots of instant charm here, but for my taste the wine really calls for more freshness, depth and intensity. Most likely this wine can develop some sense of finesse as it drops the sweetest primary fruit notes with age, but I have a hunch this wine is still a bit too ripe to make great old bones. I’d say this is a nice and fruity Volnay for early consumption, yet not perhaps at its best right now. Let the wine wait for a handful of years more. (88 pts.)
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, since I do own some Mikulski, but I’ve not found the whites all that exciting (though am happy to drink them).