In April, I made my regular trek to Montreal for great wine and camaraderie. I suppose it is about time to post the TNs.
As usual, I had a really great time. Big thanks to locals Peter Chiu whose generosity and love of Burgundy know no bounds, and Jean Bardaji who hosted one of my very best dinners, even in Montreal, at his elegant home.
The wines were opened over two evenings. I arranged them in the order as if in one sitting. The notes were not mine but translated from French, penned by our geek-of-geeks Federico Bonfliglio. As is usual in our group, opinions were quite diverse (which to me is a great sign for the quality of the wines) and debate was lively, but for me the standouts were the La Grande Dame, the Ramonet, the 2002 red grands crus (I actually liked the La Grande Rue better than the Clos Vougeot, but it’s like splitting hairs IMO), the Argiano, and most surprisingly the 1944 Zin (which I liked, or rather loved, a lot more than most others.)
1988 Veuve Cliquot Champagne Brut “La Grande Dame”
Superb nose of yeast and brioche, which coats a delicate fruity note. The palate is very smooth, with a very fine and delicate mousse, a very elegant structure and an energy which shows no sign of tiredness. Surely one of the best years of La Grande Dame.
1998 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenue Batard Montrachet
Nice complexity on the nose complexes but a bit austere, very mineral, schist-like, with nuances of shells, as well as oak, vanilla. a little soft at times. The palate is elegant, of good structure, with a fine acidity which mingles with citrus fruit accents, subtle wood which leaves traces of spices and a vanilla softness. A very beautiful bottle.
1999 Jacques Prieur Chevalier Montrachet
Oaky, rather buttery and vanilla nose which tends to progressively drown the discrete minerality of the wine as it oxigenates. The palate is rich, consistent, dominated still a little by this oak. A little soft, with some Scottish caramel. The structure is very good. Leave ittwo or three more years to expresses all its potential.
1999 Jacques Prieur Montrachet
Exceptional depth, with very classy oaking. Nuances of spiced bread and toast, which mingle with a fine minerality, with some traces of menthol which emerge after a short oxygenation. The palate is of a richness, a power and a remarkable energy (only the wines of Montrachet can offer as much energy.) Its great richness seems to come very close to over-maturity but the style is one of classy oak, which leaves a deep toastiness and spiciness in the interminable finish. A wine with the very broad shoulders, which is already accessible, but which could be still left alone for several years.
1999 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules
Superb nose! An explosion of very ripe cherry notes, with the nuances of exotic spices and violet. The palate is fleshy, perfectly velvety, equipped with a beautiful fruity structure, with accents of spices and minerals. A wine overflowing with vitality, offering complex facets and great typicity.
1999 Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines
Austere and earthy, the nose mingles with the a subtle character of hen house, on a cherry core which remains discrete. The palate is dense, compact, earthy, minerally, with fine tannins, and tight, with a good licorice-like finish. A Gevrey that’s still a little astringent, requiring a few more years of wait.
1999 Dom. de la Vougeraie Musigny
Beautiful nose, sharp and typical, characterized by tart cherries and earthy nuances. Chalky and evolving to tobacco. The palate is compact, tart, rather classically structured, dry, and while far from being unpleasant, lacks a little density of flesh for a vintage of this pedigree.
2002 La Grande Rue (Domaine F. Lamarche)
Very different from the bottle opened three years ago. It has become rather austere, virile, offering a nose that is earthy, hot, ripe, with plum and liquorice. The palate is compact, tight, and solidly chewy in mid-palate. A slight lack of freshness in fruit, which is plum rather than cherry. This does nothing to lessen its masculine and austere character. Difficult to say if it’s in a funky phase, but it’s still very young.
2002 Ch. de la Tour Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
Superb nose, offering an irresistible character of Asian spices, cedar, cola, graphite and crystallized cherries. The palate is very elegant, with a beautiful softness of fruit, blackberry and “dodue,” that seems almost sweetened. A complex and very flattering wine but perhaps a little short of the nobility of a truly great wine.
1990 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Ruby, very good saturation. Nose still rather young, with beautiful baked notes, dry spices, plum and other fruits. The palate is attended by a beautiful acidity. Agreeably dry and spiced. Licorice and chocolates.
1944 Nervo Vineyards Zinfandel Northern Sonoma
Produced from vineyards in Geyserville which are now part of Ridge. The rim is rather advanced, with brick color. The nose is still rather interesting, offering a profile of grass and portobello mushrooms. The palate has been thinned by time, but one can still appreciate its character of plum and grass. Reminds of very, very old St Émilion. For a zinfandel with an age approaching retirement for humans, this is very remarkable!
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