TN: Burg Dinner At The Murray Casa--Lambrays, Leflaive, Clavelier....

WINE TALK
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Time for more Burgundy, another chef-class meal and good times. Been a bust ass of a week so far but I wanted to take a few mins to put these notes up from this past Saturday before I hit the sack tonight. Along with the notes below are some photos of the dinner, which is here:

Thanks for reading! PS–the Rayas was not part of the meal but Mr Nordhoff knows I hate the stuff so he brought about 1/3rd a bottle early and of course, I had to not let that go to waste!

BURG DINNER AT THE MURRAY CASA - The Murray’s (6/11/2011)

We finally got this off the ground, building from our last french dinner that included CA against France served blind. However, this time we went nearly all Burgundy, and we served the wines without bagging. We had some simple limits: Grand Cru Chablis, Premier Cru or Grand Cru White Burg at min of 75 bucks, same for the red burg with a minimum of 100 bucks. As a complement to the dinner, we also had Alex come in chef the meal and pair to the wines, which she did a kick ass job of doing. Great evening, a chance to expand my burg knowledge with some great friends and a terrific meal. Thank you all for making it work so well!
Various Appetizers

  • 2006 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Open for 2 days, according to Mr Nordhoff, who was the purveyor of this particular bottle. Given that aeration, this is a fortunate opportunity to gauge test the wine again! Tasted from about 4 ounces. There is an aromatic uniqueness to this wine that is hard to compare. Think light pepper, stalk, an array of spices and no heat whatsoever–no booze, no wood, no intrusions of any kind detectable, just a pure aromatic. The palate, even after 2 days, is intense, compact yet also giving, showing a honeyed-like strawberry, earthy raspberry and a soil element that is really beautiful. No jammy edges, just a spicy and red fruited texture.
  • 2002 Pierre Péters Champagne Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chétillons Le Mesnil - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne
    crap, we had three of these before we even got to the main wine flights. All three were sabered one after the other, which was a cool way to get the wines opened for the glasses. However, in all the fun and the sheer amount of appetizers, I just failed to take any frigging notes. Given that we had 14 people drinking the three bottles, there wasn’t a drop left. That oughta say something, I guess! Thank you Mr Nordhoff for the 3 bottles start.

Citrus Vinaigrette Over Mixeed Greens

  • 2008 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Intense flavors, good flint, apple and a generous and spicy lime finish, even a meaty note. I liked this one a lot.
  • 2009 Diatom Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
    I used this as a ringer within a white chablis flight, up against Fevre Clos and Servin Blanchot. Uh, ouch. It didn’t fit all that well, as within this context, it was a bit clunky, richer and lacked definition. It got the same chill and aeration as the french wines. Orange blossom, lime and good acid but in this lineup, it was outclassed.
  • 2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Man, this showed great. Instensity of aromatics, like a celery seed or as Ron Hromoko also commented, a blue cheese note. Delicious, with wet stones, great balance and a nice spicy finish. Lithe with lime and no signs of age or pox anywhere here. This was a gift to me from Dan Teng a year or so ago—Dan, thank you!
  • 2009 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Bougros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Generous and broad, lacks the intensity though of the 08 Servin Blanchots and the 04 Fevre Les Clos, though. Grapefruit, will need more time to settle in and define. Heck, this is a 2009.

Scallops With Saffron Beurre Blanc Sauce

  • 2005 Domaine Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Toasty note, even a bit buttery? Creamy lime, yet finishes with acidity. Toasted nuts, spicy lime. Was not my favorite of the flight.
  • 1999 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Classy, packed aromatically with decadent flavors of lemon that gets folded into a rich and intense finish. Very lively and still quite young, no sense of this wine aging or going off course here.
  • 2004 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    This wine is really drinking well, although I found the wine to show more oak influence and some youthful wood notes. Aside from that piece, the balance was quite good and the wine is focused with good acidity. Not thick or dense but instead showes a nice sense of focused lemon. To me, showed very well and hung in there damn good with the other heavyweights in this flight (Desmoiselles and Leflaive Pucelles).
  • 2009 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
    Uh boy. I pulled this wine several minutes before the flight was to be poured so in deference to this wine, it did not get the air of the other wines in the flight (Latour Charlie, Jadot Demoiselles and Leflaive Pucelles). I poured it anyway and honestly, while this Copain is good, and 5-10 years younger than the rest of the white burgs, it was not a fair fight. It came off in contrast to these wines fat and more forward. In hindsight, I should have left the wine out as I put this thing in with the lions but I had good intention.
  • 2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
    This bottle was to be a backup, in the event the 1999 Jadot Demoiselles was flawed. The Jadot drank pure but the generosity of Ramon is hard to match and during the flight, he pulled this Pucelles and we opened it, adding it to the lineup. We did pour it into a decanter to help speed aeration, as well. Meyer lemon, not creamy but instead deeply flavored. Bit riper than the Latour Charlie and even the Jadot Demoiselles, but as the wien sat and breathed out more and more, the finished lengthened, the wine picks up a nice spine of acidity and in the end, this was for me the best wine in the flight. Leflaive just continues to please my senses, no doubt.

3 Mushroom (Duxelles) Ravioli

  • 1999 Domaine Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    What the hell…this was the wine I sourced from Greg at Envoyer as my red burg selection for the meal and this wine showed bitchen. Bit stinky and barny but in no way off, just adds something to the aromatics. Blue fruit, fresh, hint of stable and juicy. Delicious, open textured and I think this wine will go a lot longer. Too bad I couldn’t go back and buy another one of these.
  • 2006 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Came off a little rough to me, blue and red/cran fruit with good weight but appears young and tight. Some additional air seemed to help as that allowed it unfold some more but this wine is going to need a lot more time.
  • 2008 Patrice Rion Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    oh god, was this good. Rose petal nose, lots of acid and red fruits, lightly colored, hint of pepper. Cran fruit, tight and spicy and I think I could drink 5 glasses of this stuff. I am going to get more. And, I want to learn more about this climat, I need to source out a few more of the producers and get a feel for this terroir. Bitchen wine.
  • 2008 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
    Pulled late in the game but in time for it to join the flight. I threw it into a decanter to help aerate it. Meaty, gamy and spicy with what seemed to be much darker fruit, as compared to the 08 Rion Amoureuses that preceded this Chevillon in the same flight. Admittedly, should have decanted this more and planned ahead but with all the burg we had going on, wanted to add to the mix.

Braised Short Ribs

  • 1995 Serafin Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Interesting wine, as the nose portends a wine of age to follow, as it has that old bones notes of cedar and spice box. Yet, when I taste the wine, the fruit in contrast shows a riper, youthful core of black fruit and plenty of fruit heft remains. Cool contrast between aroma and flavor.
  • 2001 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
    Gentle blue fruit, has a sweetness that is pure, attractive and balanced in tone. Great length with a spicy finish that shows a stony edge. For me, the WOTF and close to wine of the night.
  • 2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
    Poured in the same flight as the 2001. The 2006 for me seems to lack the intensity, the purity and focus of the 2001. Shows a mix of blue and red fruits and my notes are fairly brief. The wine did not move me like the 2001.
  • 2003 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    I can see why the talk about the 2003 vintage matters. This wine, of all the red burgs we had all night, this was the ripest, most forward and the least like the others. Forward aromas and I’d guess CA pinot if you served it to me blind based on the black fruit, almost jammy. Where the french signature comes in lies in the aromatics for me, both a purple flower and spice. A big wine, for sure.

Carrot Cake With Carrot Ice Cream

  • 2008 Carlisle Petite Sirah - USA, California
    Well, after an evening of white and red burgs, why not finish the whole event with a Carlisle petite! Iron, black fruits, dark and staining, rich and big boned. Hionestly, this was for me a great finish and tied the whole thing up in a nice bow.

Posted from CellarTracker

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Its official Frank, you have entered the DARK SIDE. Looks like a fun night with some great food/wine.

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Frank,
Great notes as always. Like you, I’ve been getting deep into Burgs (but still enjoy domestic pinots) and most of my wines have been sourced from Greg. In fact, I have the exact same bottle of Mugneret-Gibourg Les Feusselottes. Glad I read your note on it as I’ll lay it down for some time. Everyone seem to be really high on the 01 Lambrays. I gotta source some somehow. I have some 03 also, I hope time lets em soften up. Interesting note on the Rion Amoureuses. People seem to really like this climat. I wonder if it’s the producer or the climat that you liked about this wine…prob both. Wish Amoureuses wasn’t so $$$. Sounds like a fun night. [cheers.gif]

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Great line-up Frank, thanks for the notes.
Best Regards
Jeremy

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Frank, great set of wines and notes. On that note I would buy up large on the Rion Amoureuses if reasonably priced… a great vineyard, vintage and a wine often at GC level. Cheers Mike

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Nice notes Frank,

Thanks very much. Sounds like a great night.

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Frank -

Great notes and a heck of a lineup! In regards to your notes on the 2006 Lambrays…I think the wine is a bit shutdown at this point so I wasn’t surprised to read that it wasn’t as moving as their 2001. I recently had the 2006 Lambrays from a 375 and had more polish, more precision than out of a 750. Will it ever reach the levels of the 2001, dunno, but I imagine it will emerge in a number of years and drink quite nicely.

cheers!

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Still so strange to see you post on Burgs but a good strange. [cheers.gif]

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great notes, Frank and looks like it was a great meal

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FMIII,
Great notes for a great dinner. You eat/drink well!
I’ve tasted many of the same wines recently and have very similar impressions.

The '08 Rion Amoureuses was fantastic and the clear star of the Rion lineup. It was my first taste from this famous 1er Cru and it did not disappoint. I also thought the '08 Chevillon Cailles was ridiculously good, too, with great aromatics and lively acidity inherent in a lot of '08s. It was from a bottle that had been open for hours so the air probably helped it to show well. The '01 Lambrays I had in April was lovely, more red than blue fruit, but not showing quite as well. I don’t think it saw enough air and there may have been some poor storage in its past. While I generally like '01s better than '02s, for Lambrays I’ve had better experiences with the '02s so far. The '06 Lambrays was pretty closed down so I agree with Matt and suspect it will be much better in several more years (in contrast the '07 tasted 2 months ago wasn’t shut down at all and was divine in a softer, delicate fashion).

Glad to see you on the dark side. Keep the notes coming as it seems we have/drink/like many of the same wines (including Copain).

Cheers,
Steve

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Nice tasting and notes! You’re off the deep end now :wink:

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Yes, even this “Caliphile” thought this was an outstanding group of wines. Thanks, Frank, for another wonderful evening!

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As usual, Frankie’s notes are spot on. This was a great dinner, with great food and wine all night. Jill and Frank are simply great hosts.

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An outstanding evening. Great wine, food, and friends. Both the Lambray’s were rocking for me. For the white the Les Clos Chablis was outstanding, but all the wines this evening were just different levels of good/great for me. Thanks Frank and Jill for putting on this superb evening. Alex the Chef nailed it.

Oh ya, Steve N.'s note of spot on was spot on.

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The wines were even better when they were accompanied by good friends. Fun, entertaining and educational evening. I didn’t take notes as I was too busy enjoying the food and the wines. The 2001 Lambrays was on target similar to the bottle I had last month. The 06 was sleeping tonight not much of its beauty was showing. Thanked the wine gods for no premox on the whites.

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Frank,
Really interesting set of wines, thanks for taking the time to share your impressions. I’m a huge fan of that '01 Lambrays and nice to see the '99 Demoiselles showing well. When it’s on, it can be so brilliant but I have unfortunately had a number of premoxed ones.

Cheers,
-Robert

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Careful Frank - too many of these dinners and all of your Syrah’s will end up on Winebid … and quickly. [pillow-fight.gif]

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I cannot do enough of these wine dinners. Well, and finding more Chambolle Musigny that won’t break my wallet. A week later, I am still thinkng about how good that Rion Amoureuses was! I have slowed way down on syrah, really to get some balance into my cellar and be a bit more reasoned with how I spread out my purchasing. I still love syrah but by god, burdgundy has bit me hard.

By the way, it bears saying that without some really cool people locally that share these wines, it would be hard to get traction on tasting through a variety of vintages and climats. I owe Ramon a big atta boy as he has been the G when it comes to sharing some killer stuff with me, as has Jim Mack up north. To be able to taste Musigny, Rousseau, Leflaive, etc…real door openers.

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Wow, I haven’t seen anyone fall for the dark side so hard since…

Anyway, you are welcome!
So very glad the 04 Fevre showed well.
You are drinking some damn good wines.

From now on maybe we should all call you Lord Vader?? [snort.gif] [wow.gif]