Bouvet-Ladubay is best known for turning out a range of sparkling wines, some of which I have on occasion found to be fairly impressive. At the top end the Instinct and Trésor cuvées can be deliciously harmonious, but even at the other end of the spectrum the wines can be very good, the 2005 Mlle Ladubay Saumur Brut being a case in point. This was was a little cracker for the money, and what I liked about it best was that it remained true to its origins. Texturally it was like licking the very tuffeau in which the grapes were no doubt grown, with a squeeze of peach juice on top. Delicious!
Although they are less well known than the sparklers, Bouvet-Ladubay also produce a range of still wines, and the grands vins from amongst them are the Nonpareils cuvées. These infrequently-spotted efforts are bottled under the Anjou, Saumur-Champigny and Chinon appellations and, as evinced here, under the less stringent vin de table category too as necessary.
Bouvet-Ladubay Les Nonpareils M99 Expérimental (Vin de Table) NV: This is pure Cabernet Franc, from the 1999 vintage as hinted at by the M99 (millésime 1999) nomenclature. Low yields, about 30 hl/ha, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, élevage in oak, and clearly refused the agrément for the Anjou appellation, otherwise I don’t have a wealth of information on this slightly mysterious cuvée. In the glass the wine has a moderately dense hue, with a dusty opacity to it. The nose certainly has a polished and modern, seductive appeal, the aromas of crushed and creamy summer fruit compote twisted with elements of coffee and honey, residual aromas of a heavy application of oak I think. It even has a little trace of coffee-chocolate to it, but thankfully this is very subtle. A very supple start to the palate, nicely composed, and fresh too, with a nice integration of components here. The fruit shows a nicely defined and gritty style, but through the middle and into the finish it all gives way to a rather bitter and domineering structure, with a woody feel to the tannins. Still rather grippy here, these tannins coating the mouth. This still needs time, but I note that there are some structural elements here that might not come around in a totally harmonious fashion. 15.5/20