Bordeaux classics that sang fine traditional tunes
Balvanera, NYC
10/04/2021
So, we forged ahead with our plans to dine with some old, mature wines in spite of the advanced-announced no-show by the guest of honor, whom we hope to catch at a later date.
While another regular had to beg out due an unforseen medical issue, I was glad to meet another local oenophile and to reconnect with one from Bordeaux dinners of years past and, of course, have fun catching up with the usuals.
Venue was at Balvanera, an Argentine steak place in the Lower East Side. Very casual with very good service, the 6 of us shared more than decent steaks, deliciously fun appetizers and a cool outdoor table where we also soaked in the neighborhood noise and ambiance.
Whites:
NV Marc Hebrart Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes Brut
Apple, biscuits, quite rich and drinking very nicely. B+
2012 Abbatucci Cuvee Collection General de la Revolution Jean Charles Abbatucci Blanc
Served completely blind. Hint given was that out of the 6 varietal blends, only 1 is of common name and it happens to be the one with lowest (5%) share (Vermentinu). Not only is the name a mouthful, but so is the wine. Loved the complex aromatic bouquet and the rustic, yet impressive, melange of berries and lime. B+
2014 Gerard Boulay Clos de Beaujeu Sancerre
Youthful. Loads of firm and tart acidity, obscene minerality, mouthful of cool-weather ripened white fruit. B+
Reds:
1970 Chateau Magdelaine, Saint Emilion
Provided good sense of what the property does in the most traditional way. Bottle may be slightly off compared to those that Iāve had before. Earthy with presence of ripe black fruit. B-
1988 Chateau Magdelaine, Saint Emilion
Bottle in excellent shape. Leather, cigar, wet leaves on the nose. Layered berries and hints of tea. You want old school, you get old school! B+
1970 Domaine de Chevalier, Graves
Quickly commanded attention upon first sip. Complex and appealing tertiary bouquet. Well balanced and delineated fruit, leather, cigar components. Lengthy. A-/A
1970 Bel-Aire Marquis dāAligre, Margaux
I donāt get to drink wines by the property that is gushed about in wineboards by serious geeks and this bottle was in alignment. This BAMA was all expressive nose, rustic red fruit, earthiness and enjoyable. B+
1979 Chateau La Tour Haut Brion, Graves
Soulful, if you know what I mean. Not as ripe nor as intense as most of the wines tonight, but quietly made one notice its laid back, traditional Graves style with wet leaves and herbs on the nose and gentle fruit presence in the palate. B+
1978 Chateau Palmer, Margaux
A Palmer that highlights the house style. Nicely perfumed, a bit of slutiness, some ripe black and blue fruit, and pleasantness all around. B+
1970 Chateau Haut Bailly, Graves
In excellent drinking zone, this bottle can make a believer of how patience can have a virtuous result. Red berries, tea, cola all within a feminine elegant texture and overall experience. A-/A
1978 Chateau Haut Bailly, Graves
The property just amazes with consistently oozing class from the glass, with the traditional and elegant claret make-up. Fun, yet serious with a bit of mint, leather and cool blue fruit notes. Have years to keep going. A-
1981 Chateau Haut Bailly, Graves
One can never have enough of wines from Ch. Haut Bailly. This would be the first time that Iāll have this propertyās vintage and this medium-soft bodied wine made sure I keep an eye out for more from even the not-so heralded vintages. Some wet forest notes with less-than intense fruitiness, but all within a fine structure. B+
Apologies for the abbreviated and the crappy notes, but that was some night when note-taking was not and should not be in the priority! Thereās not one bottle that I wouldnāt drink again and the company definitely made the dinner more enjoyable than the wines already did.
ctto (JC):
