OK, now that I have your attention…
Four bottles of Champagne opened last weekend, three grower Champagnes plus one old favourite, the black label non-vintage fizz from Lanson. With five years in the cellar behind it, this wine performed pretty well. All were eclipsed by the Pierre Moncuit wine, which did have the advantage of being from magnum, but within the other three wines it was the Lanson that I enjoyed most. Perhaps not a fair comparison, considering the maturity of the wine?
Janisson & Fils Brut Premier Cru NV: Janisson & Fils are based in the grand cru village of Verzenay on the Montagne de Reims; other than that, I know little of this grower. The wine has a fresh mid-gold hue, and a plentiful bead of moderate size. The nose initially seems quite primary, with citrus fruits laid over a smoky and stony character, very clean, defined and fresh, with little hints of praline. The palate has a broad presence, and is just dripping with lightly crunchy golden fruits, clean and with plenty of zip. The mousse is fine, the acidity full on, both giving it plenty of lift, but what I think I enjoy most is the layer of golden-crunchy fruits, like crushing and popping golden grapes between your teeth. Rather dry in the finish, more so than expected, and showing a touch of steel here. 16/20
Moutardier Brut Sélection NV: Moutardier are based in Le Breuil south of the Marne, and specialise in Pinot Meunier (which accounts for 80% of the vineyard). This cuvée though is 50% each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It has a rich colour, a polished pale-golden hue with a tinge of bronze at its very core. And on the nose a style indicative of oxidative processes, the aromas doinated by nutty-polished oak, baked-roasted citrus fruits, with a smoky-toasty-Maillard coating and a hint of sweet whisky mash which - to my surprise - I find works really well in this context. It is rich and full on the palate, broad and bold, with notes of sweet candied lemons. There is plenty of fine and defined mousse, giving a much needed bright and incisive character, helped by very firm acidity and a rather sour edge to the fruit and acid character. This does at least give it a sappy, savoury, lip-smacking finish, but I do confess I find the role of the acidity a little dominant and incongruous for my palate. 14.5/20
Lanson Black Label Brut NV: These bottles (yes, I have more!) have spent about five years in the cellar here, and were part of the big stock dump from Lanson in 2005 when it looked as though the house was about to go to the wall. Still plenty of life on releasing the cork; a pale golden hue in the glass, and an exuberant bead at first, although quickly settling down to something much more fine and a little lazy and relaxed in appearance. A slightly smoky character on the nose, more nutty in fact, with a little golden toast. The palate is full with golden crystallised fruits, a broad and fleshy character and plenty of lifting acidity and mousse. Almost a cream-soda substance towards the end, with lifted notes of orange blossom and chalky minerality. Not the best result I’ve had from cellaring non-vintage Lanson, but a nice style that is drinking well now all the same. 16.5/20
Pierre Moncuit Cuvée Pierre Moncuit-Delos Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV: A blanc de blancs cuvée, from grand cru vineyards only, from this grower based in Mesnil-sur-Oger on the Côte des Blancs. From a magnum sourced from a university cellar a few years ago, so I have no good indication of the base vintage I am afraid. A pale lemon-gold hue in the glass, and a fine and plentiful bead. Very fresh and clean style on the nose, dried citrus fruit peel, fine whisps of grey smoke, with little elements of flint and pebbles. Great style on the palate, broad and fairly rich in terms of substance, but with a very clean, lemon and pebble character to the fruit, and a lovely, vibrant acid cut. Just a little touch of papery nut alongside, and a sappy, sour fruit, acid-bound vintage. And the mousse is very appealing too, fine and prickly. All in all a very fine blanc de blancs, still youthful and fresh, and I am sure if left in the cellar - especially in this format - it would only get better. 17.5+/20