TN: Bernard Burtschy dinner at Taberna del Alabardero

WINE TALK
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BERNARD BURTSCHY DINNER AT TABERNA DEL ALABARDERO - Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C. (5/1/2013)

Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member, was in town to conduct the heart’s delight grand tasting and Bijan organized a dinner to honor Bernard. Twelve of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero and drank Burgundy and Bordeauxs.

Bernard gave his impression of the wines and gave detailed back ground which were very interesting. Other than the Madeira served at the end, all the wines were French.
96 Oeno
Justin C mentioned that the 96 champagnes have been inconsistent lately and Bernard said Chardonnay is evolving faster than anticipated. Time to organize a 96 Champagne dinner.

Whies
All showed wonderfully except Verget.

  • 2010 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
    Pop and pour, wet stone, mineral, clean white fruits. With only a bit of air, honey, mint, perfume and seashell. Beautiful cool and clean palate, lovely lemon zest in the finish. Bernard informed us that the wine is straight and I agree. There are a lot of different flavors but the expression is very linear. Lovely wine. (93 pts.)
  • 2005 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Lanoline, flint, honey, light caramel and a hint of oak, a typical nose one expects from Laville HB. Fat palate and good concentration. It is already quite enjoyable but slightly lacks the precision. (94 pts.)
  • 2000 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Initially some thought not correct but Bernard informed us that the wine is fine. Initially honey, light caramel, apple, yellows fruits, sesame and mineral. With time the nose becomes fresher and more complex by adding a bit of white fruits and noticeable smoke. Creamy palate. Quite nice but seems slightly lacking bright acidity. (92 pts.)
  • 1995 Verget Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    The 90s Verget wines are very ripe and this is no exception. Some thought oxidized but based on tasting a number of Verget, it is a very ripe wine that didn’t age too well. If you have a bottle, decant for an hour or two, need to be drunk soon actually a bit too late. (83 pts.)
  • 1988 Château Haut-Brion Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Bernard told us that this is at the beginning of the drinking window and I completely agree. Initially subtle nose of beeswax, smoke, fresh oyster juice, seawater and a hint of honey. Seamless and energetic palate, bright acidity and lovely long finish. It is incredibly young. With air, it opened up more, similar flavor profile as earlier but more expressive. It is so darn young, very impressive. (95 pts.)

Burgundy
What a wonderful flight! Unfortunately it started to go downhill from here.

  • 1996 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
    The nose is all about beautiful pure red fruits, raspberry and strawberry essence. There is also a hint of minerality. Bernard pointed out the big middle palate which is typical of Chambertin and I completely agree. The nose clearly tells me that the palate should be delicate yet it is not the case. The palate is surprisingly masculine and displays riper earthy fruit expression. The wine is very youthful. This is an excellent showing. I would say this is almost like the Rousseau version minus sweet spices. Highly recommend. (95 pts.)
  • 1993 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
    There is noticeable fizziness that doesn’t blow off. Bright red fruits, a hint of sous bois. A bit earthier nose but not as structured compare to the 96 Drouhin Chambertin. A bit of fizz masks the purity in fruit expression. Bernard explained that Latricieres is located on the upper slopes of GC which causes the wine to have higher acidity and to age slower compare to the other GC GCs. This youthful wine is quite enjoyable. (93 pts.)
  • 1993 Jean-Pierre Mugneret Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    It starts slow, somewhat muted nose of mushroom and earth. Dark fruit expression. The palate is also a bit hard. With air, the nose becomes more expressive, a hint of Asian spices and light caramel. The palate also softens as the fruit gets sweeter. This wine is for those who look for earthy black fruits as the fruit expression isn’t that pure. (91 pts.)
  • 2001 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulees - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
    According to Bernard, this is formerly the Jayer’s plot. A few of us commented on how strong the producer signature is in Leroy wines. Sweet ripe fruits that remains red, most delicious stewed tomato, floral and sesame/toast and flower, all classic Leroy flavors for me. Excellent concentration, bright acidity and long finish. This is a lovely wine. (95 pts.)

How Cruel
Corked, uninspiring, thin, too mature and heat damaged.

  • 1999 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
    Corked but impressive concentration. NR (flawed)
  • 1985 Philippe Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Smoke, blue cheese, wild game and mint. Medium concentration. This particular bottle seems a bit dirty. (88 pts.)
  • 1978 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Apparently we had a corked bottle of the 78 LMHB last year as well. This, from a different source, also wasn’t quite right. Certainly showing scorched earth and lead pencil but the palate is too lean to be correct. Still fresh and showing a glimpse of LMHB. (90 pts.)
  • 1970 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Having a very good bottle from the same batch only a week or two ago, I was disappointed by how this showed. A lot more advanced than the last bottle, some red fruits and caramel but lacking energy and seems tired. (91 pts.)
  • 1982 Château Cos d’Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Weird, I had this wine two weeks ago along with the 70 HB and both showed beautifully. Unfortunately this is also not correct as it is clearly heat damaged. Dull and no fruit. The appearance is fine which leads me to believe that the wine was kept at relatively high temperate for a long period of time. NR (flawed)

Another cruel flight
The Ausone was excellent and the Bel-Air Marquis was fascinating. Unfortunately our luck ended there.

  • 1967 Château Ausone - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Coming from the same batch as the last bottle that showed extremely well. Subtle and refine nose displaying flowers, smoked oyster, cedar, light caramel and green peppercorn. Sweet burgundian palate, medium concentration, fully integrated tannins and lovely finish. I believe this has always been a medium to light weight wine. Lovely claret but no need to wait. (94 pts.)
  • 1966 Château Bel Air-Marquis d’Aligre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    Bernard kindly contributed this fascinating wine. According to Bernard the equal portion of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Apparently Chateau Margaux had the similar composition in the 19th century. Light red color and the nose reflects that, bright red fruits, a hint of tapenade, cedar and a hint of green that adds complexity. Although delicate, it remained expressive for awhile. Lovely wine. (91 pts.)
  • 1966 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    VA juice, shame. NR (flawed)
  • 1970 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    The same source as the 66. Very pale color, DOA. NR (flawed)
  • 1967 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    DOA, not a good day for Haut Brion NR (flawed)

Sauternes

  • 1983 Château de Fargues - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Deserved to be called the baby D’Yquem. Lovely nose displaying strong botrytis note, apricot, yellow peach, ginger and a hint of petrol coming from botrytis that adds complexity. Excellent concentration, chewy palate, bright acidity and long finish. Not as intense and air as D’Yquem but very close. Just lovely wine that is drinking beautifully. Highly recommend. (95 pts.)
  • 1976 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    What I love about D’Yquem is clearly displayed here, intense yet delicate, think yet airy. Perfectly ripe apricot and yellow peach, caramel, vanilla and crèmes brulee. Beautiful silky, unctuous yet airy palate, bright acidity and long finish. Lovely showing. (96 pts.)
  • 1983 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
    Acquired from Sothebys only a year ago. Flat, candied fruits, did I say it was really flat? No match to the other two Sauternes. (88 pts.)

We also had the 1878 Justino Henriques Filhos Lad which seems too madeirized. This was pop and pour but perhaps 48 hours of decanting would have helped. It was fun to share wines with Bernard in my home town once again!
Posted from CellarTracker

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Ouch Kevin.
Your thread could be used as an advertisement for screw caps.
At least most of the dry whites and Burgs were fine.
And a pleasure to read about the 1976 Yquem. Have had the marvelous 1975, but not the 1976.
Bernard is a great guy. We had lunch together at Sociando Mallet during en primeur week, and the 2005 Sociando, though evidently too young to fully appreciate, was superb: its tannins were refined and there was excellent brightness through to the finish.

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IMHO more than pointing to screw craps, it points to good storage. The Palmers were both from the same suspect cellar and sadly when opened revealed their previous abuse(s). On the other hand the Ausone was from a cold, pristine cellar and showed as such. Bernard described the Ausone as lacking power, which may be true, but what it had was impeccable balance.

One interesting note on the madeira: Tasting it with the chocolate mousse brought out a wonderful, nutty and even salty finish that was very reminiscent of a dry sherry.

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Panos,
I agree with Darryl as there was only one corked wine.

Darryl,
IMO, really good Madeira has very little madeirized nose. I agree completely on the dry sherry comment.

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Kevin it was not a total loss for Haut-Brion as the white (bought at Sam’s in Chicago off the floor close to twenty years ago) was one of my WOTN’s.

I am largely in agreement with your notes though from what I understand the Cos was reasonably well stored for quite a while.

The Ausone was the great surprise for me.

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Cole,
I am certain that the Cos was heat damaged. Perhaps trying another bottle from the same source will confirm that. The HB Blanc for me also was WOTN, thank for bringing.

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Kevin I’m confused by the comment about Leroy’s Brûlées . I was under the impression that Henri Jayer’s Brûlées came from Meo Camuzet.

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Nick,
That is a very good point. I will ask Bernard.

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Kevin, Let me know when you’ve got time to go to Five Guys and we’ll open up another one of the Cos. They were stored at the Wine Rack under perfect conditions for the last 16 years but it is possible that something untoward happened many years before. Had in the owc and this was the first from the bottom six. The others have been fine. Great evening and wonderful somm at Taberna.

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Reg,
You generously brought some great bottles. It was nice to finally meet you in person. I would love to try another bottle from the case. I wholeheartedly agree that the wine service was great!
Cheers,
Kevin

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Hey Kevin, sounds like we had better luck with the 82 Cos and 70 Haut Brion a couple weeks ago. Sorry y’all had so many disappointing bottles. How was Taberna del Alabardero? I haven’t been in a couple years but the food and service were top notch then.

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The service both wine and food was great. The food was good, the best was amuse bouche of shrimp tempura. [wink.gif]

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I fully endorse this idea.