BASSINS 28TH ANNUAL CALIFORNIA BARREL TASTING - Mandarin Hotel, Washington, DC (4/27/2013)
First time making it to the Bassins/MacArthur barrel tasting, though I’ve wanted to make it for some time. Much easier driving up from Norfolk, VA than San Antonio.
I’m sure others have their impressions, I’ll just throw mine out there:
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2010 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
From bottle. The first taste and the reference for the evening. Quite prominent coffee and toast on the nose, with a dark red fruit profile. Oak really overshadowed the fruit, but the tannins were high quality and fruit clean and concentrated. I really like ‘90’s Pahlmeyer which has a great “minty” note. I didn’t get anything here that I thought would be “mint” later. Solid quintessential Cali cab though. 92-94 (93 pts.)
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2011 Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Passionnément Oakville bench - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Very concentrated style with a shy nose. Dark almost blue fruit profile with prominent oak giving this coarse woody tannins and a mild bitterness on the back end. Hard to gauge, probably 90-92 (90 pts.) -
2011 Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Cœur de Vallée Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Again, very concentrated with prominent coffee/toast, but some pure red fruit and mint pokes through with an herbal edge. Also has some bitterness on the backend, but the freshness of the fruit carries though. Cab franc component seems to be quite noticeable. 91-93 (92 pts.) -
2011 Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
Softer palate, less concentrated fruit with a red profile. Heavy biter oak? Tannins on the back end with a clipped, bitter finish. Hmm, not sure about this one for the price . 87-89. (88 pts.)
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2010 Maze Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
A fresher more floral style than the Morlet, though the tannins were a little coarse and heavy toast on the finish. 89-91 (90 pts.) -
2010 Maze Cabernet Sauvignon Clew - USA, California, Napa Valley
This was more concentrated and polished, with finer tannins. Less toast on the oak allowing this to be a more elegant feminine expression. Nice purity of the cab fruit, with a clear red (cassis/cherry) profile. Quite nice. 92-94+ (92 pts.) -
2011 Maze Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Per the winemaker, this had an extremely long hang time being picked after the rains. This resulted in a flavor profile I really didn’t care for. Pruns/plum, dark fruit (I really thought there was merlot in there) with prominent alcohol despite the rather pedestrian ~13%. Licorice and spice on the palate, moderate finish.An interesting take on the vintage with a flavor profile that I would not pursue. 86-88 (86 pts.)
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2011 Arietta Red Wine (H Block Hudson Vineyards) - USA, California, Napa Valley
Tasted rather late in the afternoon. Soft and forward, with lush plum flavors and soft, polished, but firm tannins. Toasty oak finish, but lots to like in this forward pleasing style of M/CF even if it is a little pedestrian. 92-94 (93 pts.)
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2010 Carte Blanche Proprietary Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
Massive concentrated wine with a red fruit profile but very polished prominent tannins up front on the palate. Plenty of energy/acidity giving this a lift I hadn’t gotten from others. Very structured, tight, concentrated, but a great mix of elegance and power. 93-95 (94 pts.) -
2010 Carte Blanche Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Even more structured and closed than the Proprietary blend, with a spicy component to the palate with red fruits and a leafy/herbal elegance that really added to the complexity of this wine. Some prominent toast/mocha on the finish but plenty of fruit to integrated this. Will need some considerable time but should be an exceptional Napa styled cab. Polish and quality of the very prominent tannins really stand out. 94-96 (95 pts.)
One of the motivating factors for this event was to taste the much talked about EMH wines and meet Merrill. I was not disappointed. These have a unique style and expression, and certainly are more my style than most Napa-based cabs. If I had to compare them to something, it would be Corison, but I haven’t had Corison in many years but would need to try them side by side to really know for sure.
The “11’s were picked before the rains at an impressively low Brix, but my (admittedly French leaning) palate didn’t catch any unripe notes. Enjoyable enough now I had to go back for a second taste.
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2011 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat - USA, California, Napa Valley
Lighter in style and concentration than many of the other producers, but so lovely and expressive now. The fruit come across as pure, polished, and unmanipulated, with a freshness that I find rare in Napa. Mostly red fruits. Lovely slice and mineral finish. Not a powerful style, but expressive, and the lighter use of oak really lets it stand out in a lineup of Napa Cab. 91-93 (92 pts.) -
2011 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat Special Selection - USA, California, Napa Valley
Very similar in profile to the “basic” cab, with more concentration of fruit and a slightly darker fruit profile. It still retains the freshness and elegance of the black cat ’11, with a little more power. I didn’t think with was “better” but a slightly different expression of the same vintage. 91-93 (92 pts.) -
2010 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat - USA, California, Napa Valley
A little awkward, but the makings are there. Fruit came across as a little “grapey” and primary, with plenty of acidity. Very odd stage. Reminded me a Ridge SCM that did the same thing and it was fine with a couple years -
2009 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat - USA, California, Napa Valley
The most “complete” of the tasting, and interesting the one where I got the most oak notes despite it seeing roughly the same amount of oak and being the oldest(though much more subtle use of oak than most of the wines here). Slightly darker fruit profile, a little more “lushness” but still energetic of not as vibrant and “fresh” as the ’11. More concentrated though with more complexity. Moderate finish with a mocha edge. Could use some time but should be a very solid and still elegant/feminine Napa cab. 92-94 (93 pts.) -
NV EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Little Black - USA, California, Napa Valley
A new project. A mix of unused wine from other vintages. A step down in complexity but has all the purity and freshness of the style. A nice expression of Napa cab and maybe at a great QPR price point. A little fuller in concentration than the '11 at this stage.
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2010 Round Pond Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
A nice if typical Cali cab. Soft and upfront fruit, with a TRB-esque polished silkiness to the palate. Quite concentrated but plush and accessible. Not as much complexity as I would expect at this young stage. 90-93 (91 pts.) -
2011 Round Pond Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
Mint on the nose, dark fruit, with a less silky and polished tannin than the ’10. Nice, but didn’t stand out in this crowd. 89-91 (90 pts.)
The other biggest reason I came to this event. I had a great discussion with Eric Baugher regarding wine making philosophy (and good bdx).
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2012 Ridge Monte Bello - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Barrel blend, not final. This was much harder to gauge. Shy, close nose. Palate was a darker fruit profile, still lively, but more concentrated with very prominent and somewhat coarse tannins. Seemed more “typical” of MB, but I don’t have any experience at this stage to compare to. Should be very good. NR -
2011 Ridge Monte Bello - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Another successful ’11 that just took what nature gave them. Lighter and less concentrated than many MB’s, this has an exquisite nose with a floral character. Lively crisp palate with the SCM dark/purple fruit really standing out from the Napa Cabs. Dry finish, with slightly coarse tannins, but the vibrant prominent acidity seemed to be the majority of the backbone. Should be a very nice MB if a little atypical stye—but still clearly representing their terrior. 93-95 (94 pts.)
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2010 Gemstone Estate Red - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
Beautiful floral plum and spice notes. Well structured and tight, with the fruit underneath the structure. Toast on the finish. Needs considerable time. 91-93 (92 pts.) -
2010 Gemstone Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
Shy, with a dark red fruit profile, very tight and structured (almost hurt the teeth), but very high polish and quality of the tannins. Mineral quality on the finish. 92-94+ (93 pts.)
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2010 Hensley Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside - USA, California, Napa Valley
Nice folks, but in a style I don’t prefer. Riper style, with obvious heat and alcohol, plum and dark fruit with a liquor aspect. 88-90 (89 pts.) -
2011 Hensley Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside - USA, California, Napa Valley
Rutherford component – Spicy and better balanced than the ’10, but still in a riper style. 90-92
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2011 Château Boswell Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Only had a small taste as they ran out. Very concentrated, massive wine. The Russel Bevan influence is obvious, but with the concentration comes complexity and polish. Great spicy cedar note underneath all the fruit. Solid wine in a more typical style despite the vintage. No heat. 92-94 (93 pts.) -
2011 Château Boswell Cabernet Sauvignon Jacquelynn Cuvée - USA, California, Napa Valley
Quite similar to Boswell, with a little more earthy/herbal character to the massive concentrated palate. 91-93. No heat. (92 pts.)
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2010 John Anthony Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
A very nice if typical Napa cab. Floral expressive nose, prominent red fruits with sweetness and lushness that is quite appealing. Polished, linear wine, with a creamy vanilla finish. Solid. 91-93 (92 pts.) -
2011 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Blackberry and toast, mint, mocha. High tannins and high extraction. Overall pretty balanced and high quality for the vintage. 90-92 (91 pts.)
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2011 Kobalt Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
Surprisingly fresh and acidic with a nice mineral edge for a Cali version. Still had a little fatness to it, but overall quite nice. 88-90 (89 pts.) -
2011 Kobalt Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Blackberry and toast, mint, mocha. Dark profile. High tannins and high extraction. Overall pretty balanced and high quality for the vintage. 90-92 (91 pts.)
Dunn – A blend of their ’10 Howel Mountain and Napa fruit. No representative there as it was being poured by a distributer. Unclear if this would be a bottled wine or not. It was forward and soft, with a dark plum/black cherry profile. Course tannins. Fine if not unique. 89-91
’10 La Rue – Pinot – Cola, ripe black cherry. Pleasant and fruit forward. 88-90
I ended the day with Blackbird with turned out to be a fantastic surprise. I wasn’t aware this was an Aaron Pott project. These wines had personality, polish, and complexity. Clearly showing vintage characteristics and terrior.
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2010 Blackbird Vineyards Arise - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
For $45 this Is a massively concentrated and structured wine. Heavy tannins, but plenty of dark fruit to carry it. Maybe the most structured merlot based wine I’ve had outside of Bdx. 91-93 (92 pts.) -
2011 Blackbird Vineyards Illustration - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
Barrel sample, not a final blend. My final wine of the day and what a way to end it. I seriously had flashbacks to tasting the ’11 right bank bdx EP. The cab franc dominated the nose and palate with an herbal, slightly green, killer nose that was both classy and powerful. The palate was more laissez-faire, and much less concentrated than the ’10, but was also much more expressive at this stage. Not a wine for everyone, as the green/herbal edge of the cab franc will likely turn off many Cali drinkers used to polished perfectly ripe fruit, but I found this to be a fantastic expression of the vintage and the most interesting cab franc dominated wine I’ve ever had from Cali. 93-95 (94 pts.) -
2010 Blackbird Vineyards Illustration - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
This turns it up a notch, with a red fruit profile, fine polished tannins, and very long finish. Blackberry and cassis dominate the palate. Impressive wine that will need some serious time. 92-94+ (93 pts.)
A fantastic event. The winemaker were very informative and passionate about their wines giving your a great personal relationship with each of their wines. Not too crowded and while there were too many wines to taste in the allotted time, but there weren’t too many people and plenty of space.
I enjoyed the '11’s that tried to stay in the style of the vintage rather than morphing it into the typical Napa style.
Great time all around, hope to make it to many more in the future.
Posted from CellarTracker
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. The evening session from 6:30 until way after the scheduled end time of 9:00 had people who started with the first 2 wines and moved on (my 2011s). It was date night, and the mood is quite different. So I poured out fairly quickly, with 2009 and 2010 remaining. Those wines had more air, had fewer Black Cats for comparison, and the 2010 had many, many positive comments. I can’t account for the difference, but I had some Berserkers here this Tuesday who loved the 2010 - loved it. Maybe the stage these 2010s are at is like kids in first grade: not every bottle is moving into a good place at the same time. 2010 was harvested at 25.8 Brix and saw just 20% new French oak. Again, too many variables, admittedly within a fairly tight bandwidth.