TN: Ata Rangi Pinot Noir

I decided a few months ago to work my way slowly through some verticals and horizontals of premium New Zealand Pinot Noir to draw some comparisons. These notes are from across about a nine-month period. Each wine was enjoyed with food, usually over two nights, rather than just a single “taste” – an approach that I’ve really enjoyed and has made me wonder how different my evaluation would have been had I done a single sitting of 40 x 30ml pours :slight_smile:!

ATA RANGI PINOT NOIR (Martinborough, NZ)
These wines have epitomised the region for many years and built up a good track record. I feel that the wines to 1997 were all about lush, sensous enjoyment and then the atypical ’98 vintage came along. Perhaps the challenge of producing a good wine from that hot vintage was just what was needed because from ’99 onwards the wines have become more and more serious – less lush in their youth and with far more potential to age and improve. Of course, that evolution is probably also just the maturity of the vines etc, but it’s good to see a focus on ability to age rather than just wowing people with exuberant fruit.

1998
This has actually come around into an impressive wine. For many years, it was the “ugly duckling” with less sensuous appeal than is typical of the label. Even just a couple of years ago it was so-so with a lot of uncertainty for me about whether it would open before the fruit died. Now (age 14!) it’s finally hit a really good plateau that will likely hold for a few more years before it perishes. The emphasis in this wine is quite savoury – leather, dark brambly fruit that is reasonably generous but not the predominant note. Leafy, though not at all under-ripe. There is still a bit of a severe edge (it was quite tannic young), but this works extremely well with food. Mouthfeel is dense for an older Pinot Noir – not mushy and broad, but perhaps more evocative of aged syrah. 88

2004
From the old to the young. This is certainly disappointing in comparison. There is nothing wrong as such, just not a lot of interest to the wine. Red fruits are pretty and dominant, a hint of maceration not helping and taking away any sense of cut or verve. It could certainly improve with time, though I suspect will never be really good. Nice Pinot if you just want something pretty rather than to contemplate. 85(+?)

2003
This definitely has more presence about it than the 2004. More fruit weight and a richer range of flavours give it some heft. The balance is pretty good, though fruit dominant; that obscures what could be good structure. Long and clean finish, with good secondary notes coming through. 87+

2000
In NZ, pretty much every new vintage is the “best ever” according to winemakers :wink:. This will take some beating. Though I haven’t tried the recent heralded vintages I would pretty confidently put this forward as the “best ever” Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. It really is textbook stuff and I could bore you with “peaock’s tail” etc but will resist. What really makes this excellent is the poise and the balance – lots of different flavours (including a deal of fruit), playing nicely together without compromising each other. Really good mouthfeel – lively but rich. 90

1996
Back in its day a really exciting wine. Age has exposed the youth of viti and viniculture at the time. This is still enjoyable – plummy fruit and forest mulch, palate a bit too rounded now though. Doesn’t have the cut to work well as a Pinot with food. 85-

Cool, thanks for posting. I still have some 2000 and 2003. I loved them on release but remember being kind of letdown that they didn’t seem to show any development after a few years - so I just decided to hold on longer and see.