TN: An Epic Mid-Week Lunch - Rousseau, d'Auvenay, Fourrier, Raveneau, Truchot

A small group of us got together for a last minute mid-week lunch to taste through these amazing wines.

Leclerc-Briant Abyss – I’m definitely guilty of writing these wines off as a gimmick, but this was delicious. Savory profile of umami and ginger framed by salty acids with impressive punchy drive. Would be a lovely oyster paring. Great way to kick off lunch.

2007 Raveneau Butteaux – Classic left bank 1er cru with sea spray and tidal pool that drifts towards Greek yogurt and parmesan cheese rind as the wine opens. Big waxy texture, limestone, and an impressive structure of chalk and salty acids. Great example of Rav 1er cru that was sadly dwarfed by the flamboyant d’Auvenay.

2013 d’Auvenay, Meursault Narvaux - generously shared by the host. This wine is bonkers. Like smelling a jet engine. Put your nose in the glass and it blows your hair back and knocks your sunglasses off with intense toasted sesame reduction, salty minerals, petrol and roasted nuts. The palate was so intense it was almost painful. Liquid rocks with spicy ginger that sublimates on a long driving finish. Everything is beautifully framed by a structure carved out of chalky dry extract. Like Russell Crowe this humble village wine just screams “are you not entertained!” Wine of the flight.

1993 Rousseau Ruchottes - Perfectly resolved tannins that frame bright airy red fruit like detailed lattice work. A wine at its apex. The more I try Ruchottes, the more I wonder if it’s my favorite vineyard for red Burgundy. It just makes such pretty wines. My red of the flight.

2002 Rousseau Beze - My first experience with CdB. Limestone, cinnamon, and freshly tilled earth on the nose. Palate was dominated by oak at first, but after about 30 minutes in the glass there was an epic follow-through. Fruit is lush, powerful, detailed and perfectly on the cusp of red and black with a long driving mineral laden finish. This wine is very much still on its way up. Wine was opened 2 hours prior to lunch and the last sip was the best after 3 hours in the glass.

2005 Jacky Truchot Charmes-Chambertin – lovely red fruit driven profile, but this wine had sadly been shipped 3 days prior. The color was cloudy and muddled with micro-sediment. Difficult to understand – chalking this one up to bottle shock.

2014 Fourrier Griotte – subtle reduction on the nose woven through the classic basket of flowers and blueberries that Fourrier wines often deliver. Well managed limestone forward structure (very Chambollesque). Sensual attack of red and black berries that caress the palate followed by a punchy mineral drive that fans out into a long simmering finish. A gorgeous young wine.

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This oaky attack was often my experience with the Rousseau big three. I’d never say the Charmes is better, but it often suited my palate better because of its much lower new oak usage. It’s been a while since I’ve had Rousseau, and maybe things have changed.

Great notes, Wil.

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One of my faves too. Ruchottes is highest elevation GC vineyard in Gevrey, if not whole of the Cote de Nuits.

That will only help amplify the cooler, stonier style of the vineyard as climate impacts intensify.

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Thanks Brady. Once the fruit came out it really began to eat up the oak, but your experience is similar to mine. CdB was clearly the more complex wine, but I had a preference for the Ruchottes which I believe is closer to 20% new oak. I do have a feeling that the CdB will improve substantially with another decade.

Nice pic! - I’ve got a similar one hanging around somewhere. Funny story, in 2023 my fiance and I took our bike rentals on one of the dirt tractor paths up to Ruchottes and popped a tire. Worth it though!

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Nice lineup as usual Wil.

Count me as a new Ruchottes partisan.

I was a lucky monkey at Paulee recently, and sampled the 15 Mugneret Gibourg Ruchottes against their 15 Vougeot. Both were delicious. Most preferred the bodacious dense dark-fruited charms of the Vougeot, but I thought the lighter, red-fruited Ruchottes with its spine of acid was a fresher more interesting glass that kept me coming back for more. Splitting hairs.

On Saturday, Eugenie was pouring a magnum of the 13 Ruchottes. Very nice.


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I opened one of these recently. It was painfully closed. Painful at current prices.

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Luckily this had been recently gifted to a member of the group by a long time collector, but it was still sad given the current market price for this wine.

I really wanted to go this year, but couldn’t line it up with my schedule. I had the exact same impression of MG Ruchottes vs CV when I tasted the 22s side by side last November. I completely understand why people like the CV better, but the Ruchottes fruit profile and structure really does it for me.

One of my big purchases for 2022 was 6 bottles of MG Ruchottes. But other than that I have 1 lonely bottle of 14 Roumier Ruchottes. I’ll have to remedy this over the next few years!

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The Ruchottes is the Sisters’ best wine according to myself and many others I know. The CV on the other hand is the best CV on the market. I suppose if you like CV on general, you may put it ahead of the Ruchottes. I don’t.

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I recently opened an 05 Gevrey villages. Despite the fact that I double decanted this three hours in advance (IMHO Truchot’s wines usually need lots of air) this still took 90 minutes in the glass to reveal itself.

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Wow–great line-up Wil! Too bad about the Truchot. I posted what I thought what a pretty nice set of wines yesterday, then a few minutes later your much better list appeared from the same spot on the planet (sort of like the day the Hawks released Lockett, then 20 min later, Metcalf announces he wants to be traded…)

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Thanks - this will definitely be one of my top lineups of the year. I’ve started to learn that Seattle has a small, but mighty Burgundy community!

John, no one would dare to suggest your lineup included a Valdez-Scantling :rofl:

What’s the Burgundy equivalent of a middle tier team with awful lineplay? A cellar block of premox era whites?

Yeah–perfect analogy. A cellar full of Matrot and Boillot.

With the Hawks unable to win 6 out of 7 games at home, one of the toughest places for visiting teams to play, and the TV Networks and conferences destroying college sports (with the WA Huskies going from the championship game to a second tier, half paid Big Ten also ran), I’ve strongly considered giving up any attempt at being a sports fan. Plan a switch to Disney cartoons and jigsaw puzzles.

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