Normally our tastings are almost invariably on European wines - with the occasional Californian (or Canadian) bottle here and there. That’s why it was nice to taste through some South African whites for a change, even if most of the wines here were pretty much from the entry level-end of the spectrum. While not all the wines managed to deliver, we still had some very serious contenders here.
As we do in some our tastings, we rated the wines. All the attendees had three points to give to the wines as they please (ie. 1 pt to three different wines, 3 pts to one wine or 1 + 2 pts to two wines).
Here is the final ranking of the wines (with my personal score in parentheses).
1. 2019 Sadie Family Valge Telliskivi, 12 pts. (93)
2. 2020 Laibach Chenin Blanc Sur Lie, 7 pts. (92)
3. 2020 Villiera Chenin Blanc Barrel Fermented, 5 pts. (91)
4. 2021 Mullineux Chenin Blanc Kloof Street Old Vine, 4 pts. (91)
5. 2018 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit, 3 pts. (87)
6. 2018 Jordan Winery (Jardin) Chenin Blanc Chameleon, 2 pts. (84)
6. 2020 Testalonga Chenin Blanc Keep on punching, 2 pts. (90)
7. 2021 Wolf & Woman (Jolandie Fouché) Chenin Blanc, 1 pt. (89)
8. 2021 Aaldering Chenin Blanc Florence, 0 pts. (79)
8. 2020 Migliarina Wines Chenin Blanc, 0 pts. (86)
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2021 Aaldering Chenin Blanc Florence - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc. 13% alcohol.
Pale, neutral whitish-green color. The nose feels youthful and somewhat primary with aromas of chopped herbs, some appley fruit, a little bit of unripe pear and a candied hint of fruit drops. The wine feels crisp, tart and quite primary on the palate with a rather light body and somewhat thin and neutral flavors of wet rocks, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of crunchy white currant, light candied primary tones and a hint of key lime. The bracingly high acidity lends great sense of structure and energy to the wine, but feels a bit unbalanced in relation to the light body and understated fruit. The finish is crisp, somewhat thin and medium in length with a bone-dry aftertaste of Granny Smith apple, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of key lime, light crunchy notes of white currants and a hint of tangy salinity.
A young, harmless and quite linear everyday white with tons of acidity and relatively little fruit and body. Furthermore, the overall feel is still very primary and at times even quite candied with its still rather prominent fermentation esters. I can imagine the wine might get a bit better over a few years as it loses those candied primary notes, but with its light body and understated fruit, this doesn't feel like a wine that could be aged for a particularly long time. All in all, I'm not impressed - and I wasn't the only one. The wine received zero points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on shared last place.
(79 points) -
2020 Laibach Chenin Blanc Sur Lie - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch (16.5.2023)
100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc from 5-15 yo vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in open-top fermentors with some skin contact for additional complexity. Aged on the lees in egg-shaped concrete tanks and large oak casks for 11 months. 13,8% alcohol, 3,4 g/l residual sugar, 5,8 g/l acidity, 0,75 g/l VA, pH 3,62 and 100 mg/l total SO2. Total production 18,900 bottles.
Pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels ripe, quite big and enjoyably complex with aromas juicy yellow fruits, some smoky reductive notes, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light nuances of cantaloupe, vague hints of savory spices and a flatulent touch of reduction. The wine feels ripe and even somewhat viscous yet still firm and focused on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of crunchy white currants and Granny Smith apple, some nectarine tones, a little bit of steely minerality, light passion fruit tones, subtle oaky hints of creaminess and crème brûlée and a touch of tangy salinity. The brisk acidity keeps the wine very focused and structured. The mouthwatering finish is crisp, long and quite mineral with a dry aftertaste of tangy salinity and lemony citrus fruits, some tart Granny Smith apple, a little bit of incisive steely minerality, light passion fruit tones, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of smoky reduction.
A wonderfully stylish, intense and enjoyably complex Chenin that combines effortlessly fresh fruit flavors, subtle oak tones, great acidity and palate-cleansing minerality. The overall feel is still very youthful and nervy, but the wine is starting to be pretty approachable already. However, I feel that this wine is still packed with aging potential and it will only benefit from further aging. A bargain at just 14€. The wine got 7 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on 2nd place.
(92 points) -
2020 Migliarina Wines Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc from two 35-40 yo bushvine vineyards in Stellenbosch. Whole bunch pressed, fermented spontaneously and aged for 9 months in untoasted oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. 13,6% alcohol. Total production 3260 bottles.
Pale, limpid whitish-yellow color. The nose feels rather ripe with aromas of white peach, some Golden Delicious apple, light floral nuances, a little bit of ripe tangerine and a hint of cantaloupe. The wine feels ripe, broad and quite succulent with a medium body and vibrant, youthful flavors of white peach, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of chalk dust, light fresh Fuji apple tones and a hint of sweet floral character. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance to the wine. The finish is ripe and juicy with a rather long aftertaste of fresh red apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of white peach, light saline nuances and a hint of chalk dust.
A nice and tasty little Chenin Blanc, but somewhat simple and straightforward in nature. The wine shows good sense of balance, but the overall feel is that of a rather banal white wine with nothing of real interest to keep the drinker engaged. I guess the wine could develop some interesting complexity with age, but I'm not convinced if this is really a wine you'd want to keep and age. Feels a bit pricey for the quality at 18€. The wine got zero points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on shared last place.
(86 points) -
2020 Villiera Chenin Blanc Barrel Fermented - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc from two trellised vineyards and one bushvine vineyard in Stellenbosch. A tiny bit (0 to 1,5%) might be botrytized, depending on the vintage. 60% of the fruit is whole bunch pressed, 40% destemmed and soaked with the skins for four hours. Fermented spontaneously and aged for 8 months in oak barrels (2/3 second and third use, 1/3 new). 15% of the barrels were allowed to go through MLF, whereas malo was blocked for 85% of the barrels. 13,8% alcohol, 5,5 g/l residual sugar, 6,84 g/l acidity and pH 3,41.
Pale honey-yellow color. The nose feels ripe, rich and slightly tropical with aromas of pineapple, some honeydew melon, light floral nuances, a little bit of waxy richness, a curious hint of minty character and a distinctive whiff of blackcurrant cough drops. The wine feels dry-to-dry-ish, balanced and somewhat concentrated on the palate with a full body and flavors of ripe red apple and savory spices, some woody and creamy notes of oak, light honeyed tones, a little bit of beeswax, a hint of pineapple and a subtle touch of eucalyptus. The high acidity is in good balance with the richness and relatively big body of the wine, lending it good sense of firmness and structure. The finish is ripe and juicy with a very lengthy aftertaste of peachy stone fruits, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of honeydew melon, light creamy oak nuances, a hint of spicy red apple and a touch of tangy salinity.
A bit bigger and more characterful South African Chenin Blanc that does show some ripeness and oak, yet never once feels too heavy or overdone. On the contrary, the balance is really on point here, thanks to the good sense of freshness and structured acidity. There are some slightly odd nuances of minty greenness and especially some medicinal cassis character in the nose, but they don't really distract from the pleasure at all, even if they are something a bit unexpected. Nevertheless, I enjoyed this wine quite a bit. It is pretty delightful already now, but it will continue to evolve and improve for a number of years. Solid value at 17€. The wine got 5 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on 3rd place.
(91 points) -
2020 Testalonga Chenin Blanc Keep on punching - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland (16.5.2023)
This wine is from the Baby Bandito range. 100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc from a 60-yo vineyard in Swartland. Whole bunch pressed, fermented spontaneously, vinified with minimal sulfites in stainless steel tanks and old foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar, 22 mg/l SO2.
Pale straw-yellow color. Some tiny bubbles start to form on the inside of the glass. The nose feels sweetish, a bit wild and subtly lifted with aromas of banana, some ripe red apple, a little bit of nail polish VA, light floral nuances, a hint of papaya and a candied touch of sweet primary fruit. The wine feels fresh, sappy and subtly sauvage with a light body and dry, brisk flavors of crunchy white currants and red apples, some mineral notes of wet rocks, light volatile nuances of medicinal ether, a little bit of plantain and a hint of herby greenness. The zippy acidity lends great sense of freshness and focus to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and acid-driven with a dry aftertaste of tart green apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of plantain, light incisive steely nuances, a volatile hint of nail polish and a touch of tangy salinity.
A nice, refreshing and characterful little Chenin that is stylistically very light and brisk compared to its many South African peers that are so often much bigger and weightier in nature. You can taste the wine is made pretty much according to a non-interventionist philosophy, but the wine doesn't really feel too natty or volatile at any point. There is nothing funky or weird here, and even if the level of VA feels a bit elevated, it still remains very much in check. It's hard to say whether this kind of light and zippy little white is capable of evolving much, but at least the wine is drinking really well right now. Good value at 16€. The wine got 2 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on shared 6th place.
(90 points) -
2021 Wolf & Woman (Jolandie Fouché) Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc from three vineyards located in Paardeberg (70%) and Malmesbury (30%), planted between 1971 and 1987. Whole bunch pressed, racked into old 300-to-500-liter oak barrels. Spontaneous fermentation and MLF. Aged in the lees in oak barrels for 10 months. 13% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar and 5,3 g/l acidity.
Quite neutral and rather pale lemon-yellow color. The nose feels clean and youthful with somewhat primary aromas of pear drops, some white peach, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light honeydew melon tones and a hint of dusty old oak. The wine feels broad, somewhat neutral and a bit anonymous but also balanced and harmonious on the palate with a moderately full body and ripe flavors of juicy white fruits, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of ripe pear, light saline nuances, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of creamy oak. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine nicely in balance. The finish is ripe and juicy with a moderately long aftertaste of sweet white fruits, some apple jam, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of cantaloupe, a hint of salinity and a touch of honeyed richness.
A somewhat primary and a bit anonymous but also still enjoyably harmonious and pleasant Chenin Blanc. The overall feel is slightly on the ripe and supple side, but there's still enough freshness and structure to keep things where they should be. I guess the wine mostly suffers from its young age - the flavor profile is somewhat dominated by candied flavors of fermentation esters, making the overall feel quite generic and banal. I hope some additional aging might help the wine bring some depth and complexity to the fore. At 29,90€ the wine is a bit on the pricey side for the quality. The wine got just 1 point from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on 7th place.
(89 points) -
2021 Mullineux Chenin Blanc Kloof Street Old Vine - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc harvested between February 8th and 17th, 2021, from three vineyards in Paardeberg and Kasteelberg, all at least 40 years old. Whole bunch pressed, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks and old oak barrels. Spontaneous fermentation and MLF. Aged in the lees in oak barrels for 10 months. 13% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar and 5,3 g/l acidity.
Neutral, limpid whitish-green color. The nose feels cool, fresh and pretty intense with aromas of salty sea air, some ripe Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of ripe white peach, light mineral chalk dust tones, a hint of waxy complexity and a touch of creaminess. The wine feels ripe, broad and juicy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and intense, subtly sweet-toned flavors of white peach and Golden Delicious apple, some candied primary fruit tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light saline mineral nuances, a hint of wet rocks and a touch of creaminess. The overall feel is enjoyably complex and the rather high acidity keeps the wine effortlessly in balance. The finish is long, juicy and vibrant with a subtly sweet-toned aftertaste of white peach, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of sweet apple jam, light candied primary fruit tones, a hint of cantaloupe and a touch of leesy creaminess.
A very lovely, balanced and harmonious Chenin Blanc with great sense of intensity and complexity despite its youthful overall disposition. There's still a little bit of candied primary fruit character left here, but fortunately it doesn't dominate the flavor profile and most likely what little is left here will disappear after another year or two of aging. The wine is pretty delicious already now, but it will continue to evolve and improve over a handful of years and keep for much longer. A very impressive and enjoyable effort for an entry-level Chenin! Great value at 20€. The wine got 4 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on 4th place.
(91 points) -
2019 Sadie Family Valge Telliskivi - South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl (16.5.2023)
A special Chenin Blanc bottling commissioned from Sadie Family for the Telliskivi district in Tallinn, Estonia. Fruit sourced from a single vineyard in Paarl, planted in 1977. The vineyard is interplanted with different varieties, but only Chenin was picked for this bottling. Whole-bunch pressed, fermented spontaneously in an egg-shaped concrete tank and aged on the lees for 8 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Pale-to-medium-deep lime-green color. The nose feels rich and nuanced with somewhat sweet-toned aromas of nectarine, some beeswax tones, a little bit of ripe Golden Delicious apple, light floral nuances, a hint of savory spices and a touch of honey. The wine feels firm, balanced and quite concentrated on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of ripe Golden Delicious apple and juicy nectarine tones, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light floral nuances, a hint of beeswax and a touch of floral spice. The high acidity lends great sense of structure and intensity to the wine, despite its somewhat concentrated overall feel. The finish is dry, mineral and remarkably lengthy with an intense aftertaste of cantaloupe and nectarine, some honeyed richness, a little bit of stony minerality, light saline notes, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of beeswax. The mineral notes only grow in intensity towards the end of the aftertaste.
A superb, remarkably intense and quite concentrated yet so very balanced Chenin Blanc that feels like a South African cousin of the most powerful Savennieres wines. The sense of focus, concentration, ripe yet dry fruit, structured acidity and powerful minerality are all so wonderfully to the fore here. The wine doesn't feel particularly youthful anymore, but it really doesn't show much if any age, either. This wine is drinking mighty well right now, but I can see it improving for years more as well. Not only was this my WotN, but it also got 12 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on 1st place. Not that affordable at 53€, but delivers for the price.
(93 points) -
2018 Jordan Winery (Jardin) Chenin Blanc Chameleon - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc sourced from 21-36 yo Chenin Blanc vineyards, harvested in late February. Vinified in stainless steel tanks with selected yeasts; some tanks were left to age on the lees for longer than others. 13% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar, 6,2 g/l acidity and pH 3,16.
Youthful, medium-deep lime-green color. The nose feels dry, cool and slightly acrid with some gaseous tones (SO2?), a little bit of white currant, light herbaceous notes of crushed nettles, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of leesy yeast. The wine feels crisp, dry and youthful on the palate with a medium body and clean flavors of fresh red apples and green currants, some vegetal notes of crushed nettles, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of some gaseous character, a grassy hint of herby greenness and a saline touch of brackish water. The brisk acidity makes the wine feel refreshing and pretty high-strung. The finish is crisp and dry with a rather long aftertaste of fresh yellow apples, some green notes of nettles, a little bit of incisive steely minerality, light crunchy notes of white currants, a hint of chalk dust and a touch of leesy yeast.
A crisp and refreshing little everyday white. Doesn't feel like a Chenin Blanc, though - if I had tasted this wine blind, I would've guessed it was a new world Sauvignon Blanc. Feels pretty simple and not that true to the variety. Enjoyable, but leaves a rather lukewarm impression. However, some people liked it as the wine got 2 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on shared 6th place. Priced more or less according to its quality at 11€.
(84 points) -
2018 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (16.5.2023)
100% Chenin Blanc. Vinified in stainless steel. 13% alcohol, 2,9 g/l residual sugar, 6,0 g/l acidity and pH 3,49.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels sweetish and somewhat restrained with somewhat exotic aromas of ripe Fuji apple, some tropical fruit candies, a little bit of honeyed richness, light nuances of persimmon and a hint of passion fruit. The wine feels broad, somewhat concentrated and a bit oily on the palate with a rather full body and quite ripe flavors of honeydew melon and lemony citrus fruit tones, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of spicy red apple, light nuances of leesy creaminess, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of passion fruit. The rather high acidity lends nice sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is dry-ish and pretty juicy with a long aftertaste of Golden Delicious apple and ripe Meyer lemon, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of beeswax, light leesy notes of creaminess, a little bit of nectarine and a hint of tangy salinity.
A nice, tasty and harmonious Chenin Blanc. It feels like this must've been a bit simple and straightforward little everyday white in its youth, but the wine has picked up some breadth and richness with age, losing its candied primary tones in the process. The wine hasn't evolved into anything particularly impressive or interesting over the years, but I'd wager this is still a more enjoyable and characterful effort than it was on the time of its release. Good stuff, but nothing special that would make your socks spin. Good value at 11€. The wine got 3 points from the twelve participants in our tasting of ten Chenin Blancs, making it finish on 5th place.
(87 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
).
. It was a sweet potato farm until Chris Alheit convinced Reneen Borman to set up there. The vineyard is at 600m above sea level in Montagu. Reneen Borman also makes a Colombard from that site (with 10% Chenin I think) that I’ve yet to try. I needed 4 bottles from the 2018 Steen before falling in love with it. It was shut down hard during those first 4 years.