The fourth session in our seemingly unending series of Aligoté tastings. The notes from the previous two tastings can be read here:
The Other White Burgundy aka. Aligoté
Aligoté, pt. 2: another study of 14 wines
Aligoté study, pt. 3
This time only a handful of people could attend, so the lineup was relatively short compared to our previous sessions.
The biggest emphasis was on Ramonet wines - which performed quite nicely this time around (this has not always been the case). Especially the Bouzeron version of Ramonet was singing this time - the regular Bourgogne-Aligotés a few paces behind.
Coche-Dury’s Aligoté cost more than all the other six wines put together, but still didn’t mange to impress. Even if the wine was the oldest bottle we tasted this evening, maybe it was still opened too early? Is this wine going to go places with enough age? Is the wine ever going to justify its ridiculous price? You tell me.
(We also had a few inexpensive Champagnes from half bottles while waiting for some of the attendees to arrive, but I didn’t remember to take a picture of those bottles).
- NV Alice Bardot Champagne Cuvée Grande Réserve - France, Champagne (6.3.2024)
Lot number L1/S2490.04 doesn't tell much about the base vintage or how long the wine has been aged. 12,5% alcohol, dosage 9 g/l and 7,2 g/l acidity.
Pale lemon-yellow color. Ripe, rather fruity nose with aromas of sweet yellow apples, some leesy notes of yeast, light nutty notes of almond and a hint of savory spice. The wine feels ripe, balanced and a tad sweetish on the palate with a medium body, a crisp and voluminous mousse and flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of juicy yellow apple, light white peach tones and a youthful hint of candied primary fruit. The acidity feels quite high, but the dosage shows through a bit, too. The finish is juicy, lively and a bit sweet with a medium-long aftertaste of yellow apples, some white peach tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light leesy notes and a hint of ripe citrus fruit.
A nice and tasty but also quite simple and linear Champagne with maybe a tad too high dosage. The overall feel is pretty balanced, but at times the wine tastes a bit too sugary. Leaves a rather lukewarm impression. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 17,99€ for a half bottle.
(87 points) - NV Robert de Pampignac Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (6.3.2024)
Lot number A22061. 12% alcohol, dosage 9 g/ rs and 6 g/l acidity.
Pale lemon yellow color. The nose feels a bit odd and quite atypical, but not particularly unpleasant, with relatively sweet aromas of perhaps lifted VA, some peachy tones, a little bit of dusty earth and chalk, light nutty notes and a hint of wood. The wine feels brooding and somewhat toasty on the palate with a moderately full body and relatively dark-toned flavors of nutty autolysis and ripe yellow fruits, some toasty notes of custard pastries, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, light nectarine tones, a red-toned hints of cherries and raspberries and a touch of spicy red apple. The wine feels firm and structured on the palate with a subtle touch of sweetness from the relatively high dosage. The finish is lively, acid-driven and a bit toasty with flavors of spicy red apple, some nutty notes of autolysis, a little bit of salinity, light leesy nuances, a hint of ripe citrus fruits and a red-toned touch of fresh cherry.
A nice, balanced and tasty Champagne with pleasantly toasty overtones. The nose feels slightly odd and perhaps subtly volatile with a sweet, vaguely nail polish-like nuance - but it doesn't feel off-putting. Just unexpected. All in all, this is a nice and even maybe a bit characterful Champagne, but ultimately nothing particularly impressive or memorable. Just a solid cheapie. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 19,21€ for a half bottle.
(89 points) - 2022 Tercet (Marc Soyard) Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (6.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Aligoté. Fermented spontaneously in oak. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (10% new). 11% alcohol.
Pale and very slightly hazy whitish-yellow color. The nose feels quite natural with somewhat waxy and slightly volatile aromas of peachy stone fruit, some creamy notes of oak, a little bit of apple jam, light zesty citrus fruits, a hint of chopped herbs, a touch of bretty funk and a lifted whiff of VA. The wine feels lively, crisp and very slightly tingly on the palate with a light body and somewhat linear flavors of fresh red apples, some zesty citrus fruit tones, a little bit of herby greenness, light stony mineral notes, a hint of bretty funk and a lifted touch of sweet VA. The brisk acidity keeps the wine very lively - even somewhat electric. The finish is lively, crisp and zippy with a long, slightly wild aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple notes, some ripe lemony tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light herby nuances, sauvage hints of bretty funk and lifted VA and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
A fun, tasty and refreshing wine. At first the wine didn't seem particularly interesting, due to its somewhat wild aromas and slightly tingly carbonation on the tongue. However, the wine opened up nicely, evolving into a pleasantly crisp and energetic white wine - not too natty, just somewhat wild and slightly funky. Pretty fun stuff; not serious and complex, but wild and drinkable. Priced according to its quality at approx. 25€.
(88 points) - 2022 Camille Thiriet Bourgogne-Aligoté du Jardin - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (6.3.2024)
100% organically farmed Aligoté from a very old vineyard in Pommard. Fermented spontaneously, macerated for 3 days on skins. Aged for 1 year in oak. 12,5% alcohol. Total production 4437 bottles.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels rich, aromatic and even quite exotic with sweet-toned aromas of mango and banana, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of apple jam, light melon nuances, a hint of ripe pear, a touch of chopped herbs and a faint whiff of vanilla oak. The wine feels surprisingly rich and textural on the palate (for an Aligoté), but true to the variety, the wine is also quite brisk, firm and medium in body. There are nuanced flavors of white peach and melon, some spicy red apple tones, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of ripe pear oaky hints of wood and creaminess and a funky touch of waxy richness. The moderately high acidity lends a good sense of balance to the wine - although a wine this rich and textural could use a bit more acidic zip. The finish is crisp and dry yet somewhat tropical with flavors of ripe citrus fruits and honeydew melon, some crunchy Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of herby spice, light nuances of creamy oak and woody spice, a tropical hint of mango and a touch of leathery funk.
An enjoyably rich, textural and characterful Aligoté that might be a bit too young for its own good at the moment - the fruit feels a bit over-the-top with its noticeably exotic overall feel and the oak is maybe sticking out a bit. However, despite the richness and the texture, the wine doesn't feel big or heavy in any way - I just wish the wine would have a bit more acidity. Nevertheless, this is a delightful effort - and I wouldn't be surprised if the wine would come better together with a few additional years under its belt. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 35€.
(89 points) - 2020 Joseph Colin Bourgogne-Aligoté Les Jardins de la Côte - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (6.3.2024)
A single-vineyard Aligoté from lieu-dit Les Jardins de la Côte, which is planted to 70-yo vines within the Saint-Aubin appellation. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged in 350-liter oak barrels. 12,5% alcohol.
Quite intense, medium-deep lime-green color. The nose feels a bit dry and restrained with low-key Burgundian aromas of wet rocks, some reductive notes of smoke and rubber, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light juicy notes of golden apples, a hint of woody oak and a faint touch of herby greenness. The wine feels somewhat ripe and even slightly concentrated yet still firm and cool on the palate with a medium body and dry and focused but also slightly understated flavors of white peach and pink grapefruit, some leesy tones, a little bit of creamy oak and perhaps even diacetyl, light juicy notes of fresh red apple, a hint of chalky minerality and a faint touch of salty liquorice powder. The acidity feels high, firm and structured. The finish is long, firm and a bit neutral with a dry, slightly reticent aftertaste of chalk dust and wet rock minerals, some crunchy red apple notes, a little bit of savory oak spice, light juicy notes of white peach, a hint of leesy creaminess and a touch of smoky reduction.
A somewhat restrained and not flashy but also elegant and focused Aligoté. Very dissimilar to the 2018 vintage, which had a more open and surprisingly Sauvignon Blanc-like air to it. This wine felt like an Aligoté, not a Sauvignon Blanc. However, it was also quite reductive and still somewhat closed - I'm pretty sure the wine benefits greatly from both aging and air exposure, as it felt so very young and closed at the moment. A nice, balanced and clean effort with a somewhat Burgundian feel to it, thanks to the oak aging. Good for mid-term drinking.
(91 points) - 2022 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (6.3.2024)
100% Aligoté. Aged in predominantly old oak barrels for 10 months. 12,5% alcohol.
Very pale whitish-yellow color. The nose feels youthful, sweetish and a bit restrained with somewhat primary aromas of pear juice, some ripe Golden Delicious apple, light creamy oak tones, a little bit of persimmon and a hint of cantaloupe. The wine feels ripe, somewhat rich and a bit linear on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of juicy white fruits and yellow apple, some primary notes of pear juice, light creamy oak tones, a little bit of persimmon and cantaloupe, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of apple peel bitterness. Nice, bright and structured acidity. The slightly mouth-puckering finish is long, firm and ripe yet dry with a fruit-driven aftertaste of yellow apples and juicy white fruit, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light primary notes of pear juice and a hint of apple peel bitterness.
A ripe and fruit-driven yet still enjoyably structured Aligoté - although the very youthful and somewhat sweet-toned primary fruit character does make the wine feel a bit softer and quite a bit more fruit-forward than your typical Ramonet Aligoté. Although the wine feels a bit too youthful for my preference, it is fresh and tasty enough to promise a good deal on its aging potential. Although the wine is perfectly accessible right now, it is maybe a bit too fruity and linear at the moment and will enter its optimal drinking window only after a few more years. Most likely this wine will continue to age nicely for many more years. Although this didn't wine me fully over now, this is still proper stuff with lots of upside.
(89 points) - 2020 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bouzeron - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Bouzeron (6.3.2024)
100% Aligoté (exclusively Aligoté Doré, according to some sources) from vineyards in Bouzeron. Aged for 14 months in oak. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale lime-green color. The nose feels ripe and somewhat sweet-toned but also moderately reductive and a bit reticent with aromas of key lime, some reductive notes of struck match and popcorn, a little bit of ripe Granny Smith apple, light spicy oak notes, a sweet, primary hint of white gummi bear candies and a woody touch of savory oak. The wine feels firm, energetic and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and brisk flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of juicy citrus fruit, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of smoky reduction and a touch of steely minerality. Wonderfully focused and incisive acid structure. The finish is ripe yet firm and acid-driven with a long, palate-cleansing aftertaste of stony minerality and ripe Granny Smith apple, some citrus fruit tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light sweeter notes of juicy white fruits, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of tangy salinity.
A great, focused and serious Aligoté that shows a bit more depth, precision and complexity than the Ramonet Bourgogne-Aligotés, which come across as slightly fruitier and less complex in style. The wine is still very youthful, high-strung and slightly closed with a bit of reduction, so I'm sure this wine will continue to evolve and improve with age as its unwinds a bit. Most likely the wine is going to be in its optimal drinking window somewhere around 8-12 years in age. Terrific stuff with lots of upside. Highly recommended.
(92 points) - 2018 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (6.3.2024)
100% Aligoté. Aged in predominantly old oak barrels for 10 months. 12,5% alcohol.
Rather pale yellow-green color. The nose feels juicy yet a bit restrained with rather fruit-forward aromas of ripe white peach, some spicy red apple, light leesy notes of creaminess, a little bit of honeydew melon, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of woody spice. The wine feels ripe, rich and juicy on the palate with a rather full body and clean, fruit-driven flavors of sweet golden apple and white peach, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light greengage nuances, a hint of honeydew melon and a leesy touch of creaminess. The balanced, moderately high acidity lends good sense of firmness to the mouthfeel and keeps the wine pretty structured - even if the mouthfeel is a bit textural and viscous for an Aligoté. The finish is ripe and quite rich with a long, juicy aftertaste of sweet yellow apples and greengage, some white peach, light chalky mineral notes, a little bit of leesy creaminess, a hint of spicy red apple and a saline touch of brackish water.
A nice but also quite ripe and rich effort for an Aligoté. The wine feels more composed and less primary than the 2022 Ramonet Aligoté we tasted next to this, but also feels more linear and less complex than the 2020 Ramonet Bouzeron. You can really taste the warm vintage, but true to the variety: the wine has kept good sense of freshness and acidity, so it doesn't come across as fat or too ripe. The warmth of the vintage shows through as somewhat atypical richness, weight of fruit and viscous texture that you don't normally see in Aligotés. All in all, this is a nice wine and it might continue to evolve and improve for some years, but it doesn't really call for any extra aging - this is pretty ready already now. A good, rich example of the variety.
(91 points) - 2017 Coche-Dury Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (12.1.2025)
100% Aligoté. Aged for approximately 20 months in predominantly old oak barrels. 12% alcohol.
Quite youthful and rather neutral whitish-yellow color. The nose feels youthful and quite fruit-forward with aromas of wet rocks and lemony citrus fruits, some crunchy notes of fresh white fruits and ripe Granny Smith apple, light salty notes of sea air, a little bit of flinty smoke, a floral hint of apple blossom and a vague, almost sawdusty touch of woody oak. The wine feels crisp, lively and surprisingly neutral on the palate with a rather light body and brisk flavors of key lime and fresh red Fuji apple, some leesy tones, a little bit of lemon zest, light mineral notes of sea salt and wet rocks, a hint of ripe white fruit and a touch of chopped herbs. The racy acidity lends good sense of freshness and energy to the wine. The finish is dry, crisp and lively with a long, palate-cleansing aftertaste of fresh white fruits and crunchy red apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruit, light leesy tones, a hint of tangy salinity and a woolly touch of lanolin.
A crisp, clean and very classically styled Aligoté with good sense of freshness, energy and focus - but not that much in the way of depth or complexity. While a wonderfully fresh and lively effort for an Aligoté, I felt this wine didn't feel particularly interesting or memorable compared to the other Aligotés we tasted. All in all, this is a tasty, light-bodied and enjoyably acid-driven everyday white, but at approx. 250€ the price just doesn't make any sense. At all.
(90 points)
Posted from CellarTracker