TN: A Trio of Esoteric Wines

A TRIO OF ESOTERIC WINES - Mood Indigo, Jalan Kilang Barat, Singapore (27/7/2013)

  • 2004 Tenuta Garusola Olmo Bianco Frizzante - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Bosco Eliceo DOC
    This is one of the most unusual wines I have had for some time - a frizzante from a “natural wine” maker in the Bosco Eliceo D.O.C. og Emilia-Romagna, made from a blend of late harvest Trebbiano Romagnolo (60%) and Montù (40%). It was pleasant enough, with notes of seashell, lime and white fruit on the nose echoed by a very similar profile on the light and refreshing palate. A minerally back note and a little yeasty, oxidative hint on the finish added some interest. This was simple, but would be a decent accompaniment to a light seafood dish. (87 pts.)
  • NV Valdespino Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Fino “Inocente” Macharnudo - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
    This really punches above its weight for an everyday Fino. Oxidised apple aromas, lime scents, seaspray and a little minerally note made for a nice, classic nose. The full-bodied palate was rather rich for a fino, with a creamily textured body showing a salty ring of preserved fig skin and browned pears, all packed in a very fresh, balanced package. The nice dry finish even had a touch of complexity in its tail of mineral and seaspray. Really enjoyable, especially with anchovies - this really has everything you would want in a sherry at this level. (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Jacques Maillet Roussette de Savoie Autrement - France, Savoie, Roussette de Savoie
    Pretty good - this was a very interesting, characterful wine for its price-tag. A mono-varietal Altesse, it nosed a bit like a Chenin-Blanc, with lanolin, custard apples and floral scents lined with a bit of chalky minerality. Interesting. The palate was rather more like a very fresh version of Southern Rhone whites though, with a very pure expression of white melon and qunice fruit, a little hint of almonds, and a nice shade of chalky mineral, all couched in fresh acidity that kept the wine very well-defined. A little suggestion of white flowers and a shadow of spice then floated out at the finish. A nice little wine, lots of character, and it went brilliantly with a couple of hard cheeses. (90 pts.)

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