A TASTING OF 2012 PATRICK PIUZE CHABLIS - (11/7/2014)
John Follas put on a leisurely and enjoyable tasting that was a good opportunity to get a feel for Piuze Chablis from 2012 with five wines from across the range.
The wines were good but the tasting reinforced some of my perceptions of the 2012 Chablis vintage. The wines were not typical Chablis without a strong marine component on either bouquet or palate. The wines were rich, weighty and full, with some acids, but far from the searing or razor-like acidity seen in the past. The flavour profile of these wines was not however as far along the spectrum as tropical fruit, being more typically limes and lemons.
Overall, the tasting reinforced my perception that 2012s are typically not long-term cellar wines, but often wines for enjoying in the short to medium term, if you like this style.
2012 Patrick Piuze Petit Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis
Colour watery lemon. A fresh, herbaceous and pleasant nose of lemon, lime, grapefruit, with some wet granite. In the mouth, a rich, lush, weighty and bright wine, with flavours of citrus and green apple, with some tartness and chalk on the finish. A nice, but fairly straightforward and generic Chardonnay, not showing a great deal of Chablis typicity. (87 pts.)
2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Fyé - France, Burgundy, Chablis
Slightly deeper lemon colour. A bouquet of talcum powder, chalk, flint, lemon and grapefruit. On palate, a real step up in flavour and quality from the Petit (at a similar price). Again, quite rich and ripe flavours, but tactile, with good viscosity, a leesy element (from the oak treatment?) and some salinity. Also the flavour profile is largely citric, but more limes than lemons. Good fruit weight, balance and length are present here with a better acid profile providing some tension. I’d drink this wine in the next few years. (89 pts.)
2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Slightly deeper lemon colour again. A nose of some minerals and chalk, but not of typical marine Chablis aromas, with lemon and some vanilla pod. In the mouth, the impression is again of richness and power. Also impressive persistence and good fruit weight. This wine has silky texture and serious structure. The flavour profile is citric but dominated by minerals, chalk and wet granite flavours. To my palate, I would have liked to have seen more acid cut and do not really see this as a long-term cellar wine. (90 pts.)
2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Deeper light gold colour. An attractive bouquet of lemons, limes and grapefruit, with real salinity. But the real action happens on the palate. This is seriously good and, to me, a level above the other four wines here. The 1er is primary, tight and closed, but the quality and potential of this wine is obvious. Viscous with Grand Cru level fruit weight and power. But the key is the wine’s acid cut, that makes the wine nervy, edgy and energetic. This wine needs 5+ years in the cellar. (93 pts.)
2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Slightly deeper light gold again. The best bouquet of the five wines. Aromatic complexity including aromas of small white flowers, seashells, citrus, minerals and baking spices. On the palate, the Grand Cru shows refinement, elegance and complexity but, for me, not the dry extract, fruit weight, power or acid structure of the Montee de Tonnerre. The acids are in good balance however with flavours of calcified seashells, citrus tending limes, white orchard fruit and some lees. Although surprisingly open textured now, this is a wine for the cellar in the medium term. (92 pts.)
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