TN: A Special Night at Taillevent

WINE TALK
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A SPECIAL NIGHT AT TAILLEVENT - Taillevent Restaurant, Paris (2/19/2013)

A quiet celebration dinner with colleagues turned into quite an inspiring 1985 Bordeaux horizontal, plus a pair of nice surprises on top of it.

  • 1993 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
    Showed much more life than I would have expected. Very light in color. Still powerful and lush out of the bottle, with a rustic nose of mushrooms and leaves. Complex and beguiling on the palate, with a smoky earthiness yet never heavy or clumsy. (93 pts.)
  • 1985 Château La Mission Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Served blind, after a quick decant. The only wine I called correctly by maker, though I was off a year on the vintage. For a brief few minutes, this wine played supernova, flashing a compelling bouquet and complex flavors of cassis, camphor and spices. Medium bodied and terribly charming. Admittedly thins out a bit on the mid-palate, but still structured and elegant, clearly a La Mission that was determined to “represent.” A mere 10 minutes later, though, the wine closed down and never revived. (92 pts.#
  • 1985 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Served blind after a quick decant, side by side with what turned out to be its sister '85 La Mission Haut Brion. Fully mature, super-rich and with a robust bouquet of pit fruit, minerals and spice. Almost full bodied, plush and well rounded, showing impressive structure and a touch of mocha on the finish. Silky and complex! #95 pts.#
  • 1985 Château Ausone - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Served blind, and correctly identified as St. Emilion, though no one got the vineyard. What might once have been accused of being thin and one-dimensional came across and delicated and pleasingly feminine on this evening, harmonious and balanced despite following Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion and being paired with Latour, all from 1985. A bit thin on the palate, and lacking in any real power, but a sheer pleasure nonetheless. #92 pts.#
  • 1985 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Served blind. It took a while for the powerful vegetal, barnyard nose to blow off. I think this prevented anyone from correctly identifying this wine though the merlot component was evident to all. I was stunned to learn its identity, having always understood Latour to have badly underperformed in 1985, but I need to give kudos as the wine really sang on this night. Medium bodied, fleshy and smooth, with good structure and well integrated tannins. #94 pts.#
  • 1961 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    An inspired birth year wine for two of the guests. Dark caramel in color, with dominant notes of pineapple, honey and citrus. A bit burnt if I am being honest, and clearly fading. Not much spine, but delivered enough the legendary Yquem sweetness and an impressively long finish for an off vintage. #90 pts.)

Lots more satisfaction and inspiration than reviews of 1985 would have led me to expect.
Posted from CellarTracker

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special…indeed. thanks for sharing.

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Nice lineup. And aren’t all nights special at Taillevent??

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Wow, brings back fond memories of my lunch there in late 2009. Well, without all the Bordeaux, of course.

5

Man o man, why can’t we have a blow out like that at YOUR house?!?!?!?

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Not sure why you think it wouldn’t show that much “life”…?

I’d expect a '93 red to still need 5-10 years to reach peak-- unfortunately…though I don’t know this particular wine.

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Stuart, I had never had this wine, but a colleague pulled up a He Whose Name Shall Not Be Spoken revie that predicted a drinking window which closed in 2005. I was glad to be on the other side of that trade. And Larry, you know that all that it will take is a babysitter who either shows up for your kids this time, or at least chauffeurs you home after! As a brief aside, tonight’s modest follow-up featured a mag of 2000 Lacoste-Borie followed by a really splendid 1996 La Mission Haut Brion. Notes to follow when I come to.

8

Great notes on some great wines consumed at a very special restaurant indeed. Went there for lunch about 18 months ago and had a great time.

Cheers,
Doug

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I know there can be far too much Parker-bashing around here, but to suggest that a Grand Cru Red Burgundy from a vintage like 1993 would be past its peak 8 years post vintage is absolutely ludicrous. It demonstrates a laughable lack of understanding of Burgundy and of Pinot Noir. Most Village & 1er Cru Burgundies from '93 are still not at their peaks. As Stuart stated, this wine should be years away from it’s apex & should have many, many years of drinkability in front of it.

Mr. Parker may be many things & people may disagree about many of his strenghts & weaknesses, but he is NOT someone who has even the tiniest amount of credibility when it comes to Burgundy. And that is with good reason. [soap.gif]

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Look Todd, don’t complain. If he rated Burgs the way he does Bordeaux, the prices would be even worse.

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RMP describes the 85 Ausone as: ‘A major disappointment, this wine continues to dry out, showing light body, high tannin, a weedy, red currant fruitiness, and a pinched, abrasive finish. It has gotten worse as it has aged in the bottle. Anticipated maturity: now. Last tasted, 11/99.’ 75 pointer

From magnum last year this was one of the very best Bordeaux wines of the year for me.

Thanks for the notes Jonathan, a very good restaurant.

Best Regards
Jeremy