A tasting I arranged earlier this year; the wines were mostly from my cellar, but the lineup was fleshed out with a few bottles from other attendees’ cellars.
We had a few positive surprises, but as a whole, I’m not particularly keen on the general style of Bordeaux that the region is churning out today; most of these bottles didn’t speak to me much on any level. I know there are still a bunch of producers making great wines that are to my liking - and perhaps several of these might evolve into a more enjoyable direction with enough age - but for the most part, young contemporary Bordeaux just isn’t my cuppa.
- 2020 Château Malartic-Lagravière - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (3.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50,4%), Merlot (47,8%) and Cabernet Franc (1,8%) from vineyards that are 28 years old in average, harvested between September 9th and 24th. Macerated with the skins for 21 to 23 days in stainless steel tanks and oak vats. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (65% new). 14,2% alcohol.
Dense, dark and fully opaque black cherry color with a youthful blueish hue. The nose feels very youthful, sweet and primary with aromas of cassis candies, some raspberry jam, light residual lactic notes from the MLF, reminiscent of blueberry yogurt, a little bit of toasty oak spice, a hint of milk chocolate, a touch of ripe Bing cherry and a whiff of strawberry marshmallow. To be honest, the nose really doesn't remind me of Bordeaux one little bit. The wine feels ripe, juicy and quite primary on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and expressive flavors of ripe blackcurrants and dark mocha or coffee, some sweet notes of toasty oak spice, a little bit of lactic blueberry yogurt, light cherry tones, a hint of savory umami character and a touch of gravelly minerality. The medium acidity feels quite soft and modest to keep such a juicy, fruit-driven wine in balance, but at least the ripe medium tannins bring some firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is rich, round and gently grippy with a juicy but also somewhat anonymous aftertaste of ripe blueberries, some lactic notes of blackcurrant yogurt, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light toasty notes of mocha oak, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of milk chocolate.
Ugh, this feels just too lush and primary at the moment; the unintegrated lactic notes from the MLF combined with the sweet, candied primary fruit flavors make this feel nothing more than an anonymous and quite generic Bordeaux blend from the quite ripe end of the spectrum. Had this been poured to me blind, I never would've guessed this is a Bordeaux - it is just too ripe, too soft and too sweet to match my perception of the region. Perhaps I'm just stuck in the past and my idea of a Bordeaux wine is a style not made anymore - because even if the wine starts to feel more like a typical Bordeaux wine as it ages and (hopefully) loses those lactic and primary fruit notes, I doubt any amount of aging can fix that sense of softness and elevated ripeness that are so very much present here. Can't say I'm a fan and even if the wine is still a baby and will age and evolve for many more years, to me, this wine doesn't hold that much promise. Not really worth the 41,90€.
(84 points) - 2020 Château Maucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (3.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Merlot (42%) and Petit Verdot (6%). Aged in French oak barriques (40% new, 60% once or twice used) for 12 months. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, luminous and somewhat translucent ruby-red color. The nose feels youthful and rather fruity but still somewhat classically-styled with aromas of wild strawberries and ripe blackcurrants, some tobacco, light crunchy notes of fresh dark forest fruits, a little bit of smoky character, a hint of meat stew with herbs and a touch of toasty spice. The wine feels youthful, dry and maybe a bit thin on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of crunchy dark berries like blueberries and crowberries, some fresh blackcurrant tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light bitter notes of sour cherries, a hint of licorice root and a touch of toasted oak. The structure relies mostly on the high acidity as the ripe, supple medium-minus tannins don't contribute that much to the structure. The finish is light, dry and youthful with a little bit of black tea-like tannic grip and a moderately long aftertaste of fresh blackcurrants and blueberries, some crunchy notes of tart red plums, a little bit of crowberry, light woody notes of pencil shavings and a hint of sour cherry bitterness.
A nice but also a bit underwhelming little Bordeaux. I enjoyed how the wine was stylistically dry, fresh and quite acid-driven - not big, sweetly-fruited and heavily oaked like so many contemporary Bordeaux wines - but conversely it was lacking in depth, fruit intensity and tannic structure. At least the wine didn't feel too primary or tightly-knit despite its youthful overall feel, so it drinks really well right now. Most likely the wine will continue to evolve and perhaps even improve for some years, perhaps reaching its apogee at around 10 years from the vintage. However, I doubt this wine is going to turn into something particularly memorable with any amount of aging. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 26,87€.
(88 points) - 2019 Château Capbern - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (3.2.2024)
A blend of A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. Aged in French oak barriques (60% new) for 18 months. 15% alcohol.
Quite dense and rather opaque black cherry color with a youthful, slightly purplish tinge. The nose feels quite big and dramatic with quite ripe, expressive and rather oak-driven aromas of dark plums and blackcurrants, some blueberry tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light sweet and chocolatey notes of toasted new oak, a herbaceous hint of bell pepper and a touch of cedary oak. The wine feels rich, dense and chewy on the palate with a full body and very juicy flavors of glossy new oak spice and sweet cassis-driven dark fruit, some plush plummy tones, a little bit of ripe black cherry, light toasty cocoa tones, a vaguely herbaceous hint of paprika powder and a touch of licorice. There's a rather big smack of alcohol heat, which makes me wonder if the wine might be even higher than the listed 15% ABV. Despite its ripeness and rather lush and glossy flavor profile, the wine still retains a surprisingly firm sense of structure, thanks to its moderately high acidity and still quite assertive and grippy - yet not aggressive - tannins. The finish is ripe, quite hot and rather grippy with a long and somewhat sweetly-fruited aftertaste of soft dark plums, some crème de cassis, light toasty notes of sweet mocha oak, a little bit of juicy black cherry, a woody hint of cedar and a touch of roasted bell pepper. The wine ends on a quite grippy and rather noticeably hot note.
This is a big and impactful St. Estèphe where everything seems to be dialed up to eleven. The glossy new oak seems very unintegrated at this point, dominating the overall flavor profile quite a bit - which is a feat in its own right, considering how the wine is bursting with very ripe, sweet-toned fruit. Furthermore, the alcohol feels just way too high here. The wine seemed so warm with the first sip that I had to check the label for the alc% - and wasn't really surprised seeing it listed at 15%. I wouldn't have been surprised even by a higher number. I guess the wine can go on to age for quite a bit with its intense fruit flavors and quite firm structure, but I have no idea how much aging a wine this oaky will require before those toasty wood tones have integrated nicely enough with the fruit. And I doubt no amount of aging is going to help with the rather disturbing alcohol heat. Can't say I loved this wine - quite the opposite. Not really worth the 25,83€.
(86 points) - 2018 Château Beau-Site - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (3.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Merlot (25%) and Petit Verdot (2%). Fermented and macerated with the skins in stainless steel tanks for 3-4 weeks. Aged in French oak barriques (40-50% new) for 12-14 months. 14,5% alcohol, 4,7 g/l acidity.
Dark, slightly translucent black cherry color that doesn't look young nor particularly old. The nose feels open, fragrant and quite dark-toned with aromas of sweet black cherries and ripe blackcurrants, some juicy black raspberry tones, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of fresh blueberry, a hint of sweet toasty oak and an odd, dough-y touch of yeast. The wine feels ripe, dense and quite chewy on the palate with a moderately full body and juicy flavors of dark fruits, some ripe bilberries, a little bit of fresh blackcurrant, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a toasty hint of sweet oak spice and a crunchy touch of tart crowberry. The high alcohol does lend some warmth to the palate, but despite the ripeness, the wine still feels pretty firm and structured with its rather high acidity and ample tannins that feel quite ripe and supple at first, but start to feel more grippy pretty quickly. The finish is rich, juicy and somewhat grippy with a little bit of alcohol warmth and a long aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and juicy dark plums, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light crunchy notes of fresh bilberries and crowberries, a little bit of earth, an odd hint of yeasty character and a touch of toasty oak spice.
A quite balanced and enjoyable structured but also a little bit awkward St. Estèphe red that sports an odd, slightly dough-y streak of yeasty character that slightly distracts from the pleasure. Otherwise the wine is pretty nice and shows decent promise for future development. Although the wine is pretty drinkable already now, I feel the wine would really benefit from at least a few years of additional aging, just allowing it to get its game together a little bit better, further integrate those somewhat toasty undertones and hopefully lose that weird yeasty note. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 34,06€.
(89 points) - 2018 Château Labégorce - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (3.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (44%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Aged in French oak barriques (40% new) for 12-14 months. 14,5% alcohol.
Dense and rather opaque black cherry color with a fain, youthful purplish hue. The nose feels savory and quite classically style - although rather ripe at that - with aromas of fresh dark berries, some exotic spices, a little bit of blackcurrant juice, light oaky notes of cedar and cloves, a hint of ripe blueberry, a touch of brambly raspberry and a whiff of inky character. The wine feels dry, quite sinewy and still pretty juicy on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and pretty intense flavors of fresh blackcurrants, some exotic spices, a little bit of brambly black raspberry, light oaky notes of cloves and savory wood spice, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of floral lift. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the palate and the overall feel is pretty firm and structured, thanks to the high acidity and still pretty ample and grippy tannins. The finish is long, rather grippy and slightly warm with a ripe yet dry and rather intense aftertaste of fresh blackcurrants and brambly black raspberries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, light inky tones, a little bit of crunchy red berries, a hint of toasty oak character and a ferrous touch of blood.
A still very youthful but also wonderfully firm, sophisticated and rather promising Margaux. The wine does show some ripeness, but despite this, the fruit profile is still pretty dry and crunchy. The high alcohol does feel a bit too prominent at times, but that is probably the biggest downside here - otherwise this is a quite nice an effort for a contemporary Bordeaux. At the moment the wine is still a bit too tightly-knit and the new oak influence comes across as somewhat unintegrated for now, but I can imagine this wine can turn into pretty nice old bones, if given enough age. Most likely the wine isn't going to peak in another decade or two, so no real hurry to pop any bottles open now. Priced according to its quality at 38,45€.
(91 points) - 2018 Château Haut-Bages Libéral - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (3.2.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon (79%) and Merlot (21%). Fermented and macerated with the skins for 24 days. Aged in French oak barriques (40% new, 40% once used) and egg-shaped concrete tanks (20%) for 16 months. 14,5% alcohol.
Dense, inky-black and fully opaque appearance with a youthful, slightly blueish tinge. The nose feels ripe, sweetly-fruited and fragrant with dark-toned aromas of blueberry juice and dark plummy fruit, some perfumed floral tones, a little bit of sweet oak spice, light elderberry tones, a hint of crème de cassis and a touch of wild strawberry. The wine feels dry, quite concentrated and rather chewy yet surprisingly airy on the palate with a moderately full body and intense flavors of fresh blackcurrants and elderberries, some fresh bilberries, a little bit of sweet plummy fruit, light woody tones, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of wild strawberry. The medium-to-moderately high acidity is a bit on the soft side for a wine of this size and ripeness, but fortunately the assertive, noticeably grippy tannins give the wine an impressive, tightly-knit tannic frame and the overall feel is anything but soft or round. The brooding finish is dark-toned, tannic and intensely flavored with a lengthy aftertaste of sweet blackcurrants and juicy plums, some savory woody tones, a little bit of herby greenness, light bilberry tones, a hint of elderberries and elderflowers and a touch of stony minerality. The high alcohol lends a little bit of warmth to the aftertaste.
An impressively structured, powerful and wonderfully fragrant Pauillac that manages to come across as relatively airy and light on its feet despite the rather high ripeness. The overall feel is maybe a bit too sweet-toned in taste and slightly lower in acidity than I prefer, but still this is a fine and very promising effort in its own right. Tasting this next to 2018 Labégorce, I'd say I preferred it a tiny bit more due to its higher acidity and somewhat drier, more savory flavor profile. Nevertheless, these were both pretty impressive wines with lots of upside. At the moment the tannins here might still come across as too tough and stern, but most likely they will start to resolve in another 10-15 years. This is a serious and beautifully nuanced Bordeaux red that really could use some additional aging. Priced according to its quality at 50,63€.
(90 points) - 2016 Château Mazeyres - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (3.2.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Merlot (88%), Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot (4%), harvested between September 28th and October 10th. Aged in French oak barriques (33% new, 40% used) and egg-shaped concrete tanks (27%). 13,5% alcohol. Total production 74,000 bottles.
Luminous, deep and somewhat translucent pomegranate red color. The nose feels ripe, sweet-toned and pretty attractive with vibrant aromas of juicy dark berries and dark plummy fruit, some brambly black raspberry tones, a little bit of licorice, light boysenberry notes, an attractive hint of exotic spices, a touch of sweet red fruits and a toasty whiff of chocolatey new oak. The wine feels quite dry, youthful and quite dark-toned on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of dark forest fruits and fresh blueberries, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light fragrant notes of exotic spices, a hint of brambly raspberry and a touch of licorice. The overall feel is velvety smooth and harmonious with the rather high acidity and supple medium tannins. The finish is ripe, sweet-toned and slightly warm with a quite long aftertaste of dark forest fruits, some dark plummy tones, a little bit of ripe blueberry, light toasty notes of sweet oak spice, a hint of brambly black raspberry and a touch of licorice. The supple tannins make the wine end on a gently grippy note.
A sophisticated and harmonious but perhaps a bit pedestrian Pomerol. The wine shows good sense of balance, albeit coming across as a bit too supple and mellow - I'd like a 2016 Bordeaux to show a bit more firmness and structure. The overall feel is just very "Merlot" here, but that shouldn't come as a surprise, as the wine is composed almost entirely of Merlot. Fortunately the new oak component doesn't show that much - and what little shows gets probably integrated qute easily with the vibrant, dark-toned fruit as the wine ages. Overall the wine is so gentle and smooth that it really doesn't call for any additional aging, but as the wine still comes across as so youthful, I'd say some tertiary complexity wouldn't do the wine nothing but good. At the moment the wine is pretty good, but there's still room for improvement, so probably it will get a bit better over the next handful of years. Probably peaking at around 15-20 years of age. Priced somewhat according to its quality at 31€.
(89 points) - 2015 Château de Fieuzal - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (3.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Merlot (10%) and Petit Verdot (5%). 14% alcohol.
Quite translucent and moderately evolved dried-blood color with a tertiary brownish tinge. The nose feels understated, somewhat earthy and relatively aged with light aromas of beef jerky, some sweet pruney tones, a little bit of ferrous blood, light earthy tones, a woody hint of pencil shavings, a touch of ripe boysenberry and an oxidative whiff of meat stew. The wine feels dense, dry and moderately chewy on the palate with a medium body and quite evolved flavors of gamey meat and dark forest fruits, some gravelly mineral tones, a little bit of old leather, light sweet notes of wizened blackcurrants, a hint of forest floor and a touch of ripe red plum. The overall feel is pretty structured with the moderately high acidity and rather grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, evolved and quite grippy with a savory aftertaste of earthy forest floor and juicy dark fruits, some oxidative notes of meat stew and game, a little bit of licorice root, light woody notes of pencil shavings, a hint of pruney dark fruit and a touch of gravelly minerality.
Most likely we had a dud bottle - I'd expect a 2015 Fieuzal to be a very youthful and tightly-knit effort. This, on the other hand, seemed very evolved and already slightly oxidized. Perhaps a faulty cork or just questionable provenance - after all, the wine was sourced from a wine auction. Leaving the wine unrated, but in this condition this would've been 86-87 pts. at most. Not worth the 35€.
(NR/flawed) - 2014 Château Ferrière - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (3.2.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon (68%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (2%), harvested between September 23rd and October 8th. Vinified in concrete tanks and old wooden vats. Aged in French oak barriques (40% new) for 18 months. 13,5% alcohol.
Luminous, somewhat translucent and quite dark ruby-red color that doesn't look young nor particularly evolved. The nose feels a bit restrained but also wonderfully nuanced and attractive with aromas of black cherries and crushed blackcurrants, some savory woody tones, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, light sweet notes of dark forest fruits, a hint of forest floor and a herbaceous touch of chopped herbs and leafy Cab character. The wine feels firm, focused and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and intense, dry flavors of crunchy blackcurrants and brambly black raspberries, some tart red plums, a little bit of savory wood spice, light astringent chokeberry tones, a hint of savory spice and a herbaceous touch of leafy Cab character. The overall feel is clean and pretty classically styled - down to the bright, high acidity and still remarkably tough and rather noticeably grippy tannins. The finish is dry, long and quite tannic with a rather intense aftertaste of crunchy cranberries and blackcurrants, some tart red plummy tones, a little bit of earthy forest floor, light astringent notes of chokeberries, a leafy hint of herbaceous greenness and a sweeter touch of ripe dark fruit.
A very tasty, focused and classically styled Margaux that feels almost like an anachronism among all the sweeter-fruited and more oaky contemporary Bordeaux wines. This is not as "old school" as their super-traditionalist neighbor, Bel-Air Marquis d'Aligre, but still something I did not expect from a 2010's Bordeaux! With its very dry and crunchy fruit profile, assertive tannins and somewhat herbaceous undertones, this feels more like a classic claret from the 1980's or 1990's - maybe with a tad more ripeness and oomph, but nothing more. Even at 10 years of age, the wine is still very tightly-wound and rather tough in character - there's a lot of upside to this wine, but like some great Bordeaux wines from 1986 or 1995, this is going to call for a lot of aging before the wine starts to resolve. With its intense, vibrant and still rather youthful fruit flavors, I have no doubt this wine will age gracefully for at least another decade or two - and keep for much longer. Even if the wine wasn't the most approachable wine in our tasting, I found it to be perhaps the best one we tasted. Priced according to its quality at 50,53€.
(93 points) - 2008 Château Cadet-Piola - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (3.2.2024)
A blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). 13% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and moderately evolved rusty-maroon color. The nose feels dark-toned, a bit closed and surprisingly tertiary with aromas of juicy dark berries, some pruney dark fruit, a little bit of balsamic VA, light leathery tones, a hint of loose tobacco, a touch of meat stew and a whiff of forest floor. The wine feels dry, silky and quite evolved on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and slightly tired flavors of ripe dark berries, some wizened dark fruits, a little bit of old leather, light tart notes of crunchy red currants, a hint of gravelly minerality and a touch of extracted woody bitterness. The overall feel is quite stern and sinewy with the high acidity and rather tough and grippy tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and a bit tired with an evolved aftertaste of wizened dark berries, some forest floor, a little bit of old leather and tobacco, light crunchy notes of redcurrants, an oxidative hint of beef jerky and a touch of balsamic VA.
I was very surprised how evolved - even slightly oxidative - this wine was. A typical 2008 Bordeaux should be only arriving on its plateau of maturity now, but as the wine seemed to have passed its prime years already, I guess the wine just suffered from a dried-up cork that had allowed a tiny bit of oxygen, maybe? Most likely we didn't have a representative bottle, but since I have no previous experience with Cadet-Piola, it's hard to tell for certain. While not a bad wine per se, this wasn't really what I was expecting and thus not really worth the 33€.
(85 points) - 2005 Château la Bienfaisance Sanctus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (3.2.2024)
The flagship cuvée of Château la Bienfaisance, made with fruit sourced from an old, 4-hectare vineyard planted predominantly to Merlot along with a little bit of Cabernet Franc. Fermented and macerated in tronconic oak vats for a month. Aged in French oak barriques (90% new) for 18 months. 14% alcohol.
Quite dense and almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a slightly evolved dried-blood hue. The nose feels very understated and borderline mute with aromas of dusty attic, vague sweet notes of dark fruits, a little bit of damp earth, light blueberry tones and a hint of mildewy cellar. The wine feels very dense, ripe and powerful on the palate with a full body and almost completely mute flavors of vague wizened dark berries and some understated dusty tones. High in acidity with ample, tough and grippy tannins. The finish is tough, grippy and slightly warm with a dull, short aftertaste of dusty earth, some wizened dark berry tones and a hint of extracted bitterness.
A mildly corked bottle. The wine didn't show that much disagreeable TCA aromatics; it was just quite mute throughout, from the nose to the aftertaste. This wasn't a particularly pricey bottle at approx. 35€, but it didn't manage to deliver this time.
(NR/flawed) - 2005 Château Charmail - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (3.2.2024)
A blend of Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and the remaining 20% is a combination of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (approx. 1/3 new). 13% alcohol.
Very deep, dark and rather opaque blackish-red color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels ripe, dark-toned and slightly evolved with layered aromas of fresh dark berries, some tobacco, a little bit of dried blueberry, light cassis tones, a savory hint of old woody spice, a sweeter balsamic hint of VA and a touch of meaty umami. The wine feels dense, ripe and silky on the palate with a moderately full body and quite intense flavors of juicy dark fruits, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of wizened blackcurrant, light black cherry tones, sweet bilberry-driven hints of dark berries and a touch of balsamic VA. The overall feel is enjoyably firm and muscular yet not tough or aggressive with the rather high acidity and ample, powdery and black tea-like tannins. The finish is juicy, rich and somewhat grippy with a long aftertaste of ripe black cherries, some plummy tones, a little bit of black tea, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of wizened blackcurrant and a woody touch of pencil shavings.
A quite classically styled, harmonious and balanced Haut-Médoc with lovely sense of nuance and firm structure. The wine doesn't feel like a grand vin, but maybe that makes the wine so enjoyable? After tasting several more "impressive" but younger Bordeaux wines, this wine feels much more attractive and rewarding - it doesn't come across as a wine that is made to be big and impactful but just a solid Haut-Médoc. There's ripeness, yet the overall feel is firm and savory; there's a little bit of oak, but most of it has integrated easily with the fruit flavors; both the tannins and acidity are just on point in relation to the wine's body and fruit intensity. Sometimes less is more. Although the wine is starting to show some age and drinks really nicely right now, I think there's still a little bit of room for further development; drink or keep. Great value at 35€.
(91 points) - 2005 Château Haut-Bergey - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (3.2.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (35%). 13% alcohol.
Deep, rather opaque and quite luminous black cherry color. The nose feels dark-toned, somewhat sweet and both quite youthful and also somewhat evolved with layered aromas of juicy blackcurrants and ripe forest fruits, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of fresh bilberry, light toasty notes of mocha oak, a sweet hint of wizened red plum, a woody touch of pencil shavings and a whiff of herby meat stew. The wine feels juicy, vibrant and still relatively youthful on the palate with a rather full body and quite intense flavors of ripe blackcurrants, some pipe tobacco, light juicy notes of red plums and dark damsons, a little bit of stony minerality, a floral hint of violets and a savory touch of meaty umami. The overall feel is still pretty firm and structure-driven, thanks to the high acidity and still rather assertive and grippy tannins that pile up on the gums. The finish is long, savory and rather grippy with a complex aftertaste of ripe dark fruits, some wizened blackcurrant tones, a little bit of sweet black cherry, light crunchy notes of dark damsons, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of old leather.
A firm, structured and intensely-flavored Pessac-Léognan that is still quite youthful for its age and still shows good potential for additional improvement if left to age for longer. The wine feels a bit more modern and polished wine when tasted next to the somewhat more down-to-earth 2005 Charmail, but at the same time showing more depth and intensity. I'd say I prefer the less-is-more style of Charmail, but tasting these side-by-side, it's quite evident that Haut-Bergey is a more impactful wine in comparison. Good stuff at the moment, will get better with further aging. Solid value at 40€.
(92 points) - 2004 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (3.2.2024)
A blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Typically aged in oak barriques (approx. 75% new) for 18-24 months. 14% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Rather dark and opaque plummy red color with an evolved maroon hue. The nose feels dark-toned, somewhat evolved and slightly sweetish with aromas of dark plummy fruit, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of soot and charcoal, light sweet toasty oak tones, a hint of strawberry and a touch of mushroomy earth. The wine feels juicy, silky and a bit mellow on the palate with a rather full body and succulent flavors of ripe blackcurrants and dark plummy fruit, some toasty oak spice, a little bit of sweet blueberry-driven forest fruit, light chocolatey mocha tones, perhaps bretty hints of smoky phenolic spice and rustic funk and a woody touch of pencil shavings. The structure relies more on the ample and still rather grippy tannins than on the slightly soft medium-plus acidity. The finish is juicy, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned with a long, vibrant aftertaste of strawberries and dark plummy fruit, some extracted woody bitterness, light blueberry tones, a little bit of ripe blackcurrant, a toasty hint of sweet oak spice and a faint funky touch of barnyard.
A ripe yet not completely overdone St. Émilion from the somewhat modern end. The oak does still show quite a bit despite the wine being almost 20 years old; otherwise the wine is in a quite good spot. It doesn't feel young anymore, but there aren't any obvious tertiary signs, either. The acidity is a bit on the low side to my liking, but at least the firm tannic backbone gives the wine necessary firmness and sense of structure - I hope the wine doesn't turn too soft and flabby as it ages and the tannins resolve! All in all, good stuff, despite the somewhat pronounced oak impact. There seems to be a tiny bit of rustic funk that adds nice sense of understated complexity to the wine. Drink or keep.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker