TN: A Rancio & Two Reds....(short/boring)

Had these two over the last few days:

  1. Tabacal Dos Tresmontaine Rancio IGP: Cotes Catalanes Grenache (16%; Aged over 5 yrs in barrels; HausAlpenz/Edina/MN) CavesArnaud de Villeneuve/Rivasaltes NV: Deep bronze/garnet/slight browning color; rather sherry/maderized/oxidized slight old Grenache/strawberry bit honeyed/orangey light earthy/dusty quite complex very interesting nose; near dry somewhat oxidized (in a good way)/maderized/rancio slight honeyed/orangey slight Grenache/old flavor w/ no bitterness; very long/lingering rather oxidized/maderized/rancio some honeyed/orangey quite savory/saline slight old Grenache quite complex finish w/ no trace of bitterness; resembles some a Sercial Madeira w/o that level of oxidation; resembles a lot the old deMeuller Priorat dry Raancios; quite an interesting savory/saline Rancio that would be good w/ strong/spicy appetizers; not at all harsh or austere on the palate. $25.50 (KK)

  1. Caymus Suisun The Walking Fool RW Blend/SuisunVlly (13.9%; Zin/PetiteSirah) CaymusVnyds/Fairfield/SuisunVlly 2021: Dark color; strong grapey/berry/Zin-like/plummy strong toasty/oak some attractive bit earthy/soupy nose; rather soft/soupy strong grapey/plummy/Zin-like strong toasty/oak rather simple flavor w/ little structure or tannins; med.short strong grapey/plummy/soupy bit Zin-like some toasty/oak finish w/ little tannins or structure; fairly rich/lush but quite soupy & shows little of interest; very much a commodity wine one (small) step above ApotheticRed; pretty dull/simple red totally absent of character; way overpriced at $35.00 (KK)

  1. Idlewild Freisa RanchoCodaVnyd/RRV (12.9%) Geyserville 2022: Fairly dark color; strong floral/lilacs/violets very Nebb-like some earthy/tarry/pungent bit rustic light toasty/oak/smokey some complex lovely perfumed nose; quite tart/tangy very strong Nebb-like/floral/lilacs some pungent/tarry some toasty/oak rather rich/structured some complex flavor w/ ample ripe/chewey tannins; very long/lingering intense floral/Nebb-like/lilacs/violets/perfumey some tarry/pungent light toasty/oak some complex rich/hard/structured finish w/ ample hard tannins; very strong Nebb in character but a bit more rustic; more like a Valtelline Nebb but not the high-toned perfume, some like a Val d’Aosta Nebb but not the rustic earthiness; a pretty rugged Freisa that needs 2-8 yr of age; not the perfume of a Piemonte Freisa but much the same rugged/mouthfilling tannins; quite a good Calif Freisa that needs age. $42.00

More rottlescarpa from TheBloodyPulpit:

  1. Rancio: I developed a love for Rancio wines back in the late '70’s when DarrellCorti imported a bunch of the deMeuller Rancios, dry to very sweet, from the Priorat, that he had discovered on a visit to the area. Back in those days, the Priorat production was almost entirely Rancio wines. Then the old-vine Grenache/Carignane/Syrah vnyds were discovered by EricSolomon & others that could make dry, oak-laden, reds that sold for big $$'s. So now all the producers drive around in BMW’s instead of horse-drawn wagons like the days of old.
    But Rancio wines are a genre that makes for wonderful saline/savory apertif wines. I am very fond of them. We are taught in Wines 101 that oxidation in wine is a bad thing. Nothing could be more wrong. HausAlpenz carries a number of Rancio wines & I find them invariably good. A recent TerraVOX Rancio from MO was also outstanding.

  1. The Walking Fool has a cutesy story by Jenny Wagner of a relative, Johannes, who used to walk down from his home on HowellMtn to work in the wineries in the NapaVlly floor. He is depicted on the label w/ a yoke carrying water up to his home. The story is, by far, the most compelling part of this dull commodity wine.

  1. Freisa: Is one of the parents of Nebbiolo w/ another unknown variety. I find Freisa, Calif & Piemonte, resembles Nebb quite a lot but a bit more rustic/rugged & not as high-toned in character. This Idlewild Freisa is one of the better examples.
    Tom
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Can I get a source for this?

Just wondering because J. Vouillamoz writes that Freisa is one of the offsprings of Nebbiolo; Nebbiolo seems to be an older variety than Freisa (based on written records); and most likely both Nebbiolo’s parents are extinct. I’d like to see who has more credibility in these things than Vouillamoz!

The tabacal is nice… I brought it+ some other Sotolon selection stuff to a sherry evening with some NY beserkers much to bemusement from them . If you like rancio stuff, you should totally get the other hausalpenz/sotolon stuff;they really have such a wide range. I really like their Demon Du Midi

Extremely affordable…and exceptional with things that manzanillas go with…

We had a good madeira night in NY a couple of days ago…(see here for details)


Am looking thru your posts, and learning ! terravox looks fascinating. If you’re ever in NY and want to taste some oxidized goodness, let me know!

I don’t think anyone knows the answer with any degree of certainty. In the attached Decanter article they quote Ian D’Agata who says Freisa is more likely Nebbiolo’s parent. Like you also said there are those who think the opposite.

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While I respect d’Agata greatly, he is still a wine expert, while Vouillamoz is an DNA scientist-ampelographer, which lends a bit more weight to his words in matters like these.

Here’s a source right on Vouillamoz’s site listing Nebbiolo’s offspring, including Freisa: DNA profiling - JoseVouillamoz.com

And here’s another quote: Freisa was believed descended from Nebbiolo and Avanà (Hibou noir in France). Our findings support Nebbiolo as true parent, definitely excluding Avanà as Freisa’s second genitor.

https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-020-72799-6

It would make more sense for Nebbiolo to be the parent, since there are many varieties which seem to be related to Nebbiolo, whereas those that seem to be related to Freisa seem to be much more scarce - which should not be the case, if Freisa was the parent.

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Otto, don’t doubt your source at all but notice that both use the word “believed” in their quote meaning it’s their thought-opinion.

What I can say with certainty is I have recently had that Idlewild Freisa and it is delicious!

Tom

It was on a Jancis Robinson page.

If she is the Most Credible Source here, her site also says Nebbiolo’s parents are most likely extinct…