TN: A pair of 2003 Pegau

WINE TALK
1

To honor Robert Parker’s retirement, I opened a 2003 Pegau Cuvée da Capo. To enjoy the final episode of Game of Thrones, I decided to check in on the Pégau Cuvée Réservée.

This is a baby. Screaming, sappy Grenache, white pepper, pine, raspberry, and garrigue. The longer this is open the sharper it gets. It is so rich, incredibly spicy and peppery. The amount of tannin still on display is almost shocking. I have never encountered a more structured Grenache.

Is it absolutely perfect? For me, there is a bit of alcohol poking through that detracts just a little bit. Also, to be clear, this is not a wine I would to drink that often. Whereas in its youth it was hard to distinguish from the Cuvée Réservée, now it is an entirely different animal. Huge. Powerful. Freakish. One of the spiciest wines I have ever tasted. It is quite monumental. Quite eclectic. Incredibly assertive.

Can one imagine a more fitting wine for Robert Parker? Thank you Bob. (99 pts.)

While these were quite similar in their youth, they have diverged considerably over the past 10 years. The Cuvée da Capo is freakishly intense and seemingly getting bigger, more structured, and even more powerful. In contrast, this Cuvée Réservée is getting more classic, more garrigue laden, very spicy and peppery, clearly a product of a ripe vintage, but far from over the top. The nose shows grilled, ripe plums and a bloody note, but the palate is utterly classic, screaming of dried Herbes de Provence, pepper, pine, cherry, a hint of soy, but really all of the flavors and food groups I expect from CDP. It is delicious. There is more sweetness and more raspberry than many vintages, but it is generous, powerful and aging exceptionally well.

It does remind me more and more of the 1990 in profile, although this is even bigger and more ripe. (97 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

2

Great notes and a fitting send-off for Bob.

I’ve never had the ability to do a side-by-side comparison of the Reservee and the Da Capo, but hope to be able to here in a few years with the 2010s. I have however done them a few times with Reservee and Laurence, which has been interesting…

3

Thanks tor the TNs.

Will definitely pull out a 2003 Reservee this year to try what I held on since purchased at-release.

4

Nice TN. I was not familiar with either wine, but feel like I am a bit now. I like your TN “style”.

5

Excellent description - close to my impressions (although I only had it side by side 12+ years ago).
The Reservée is drinking very fine now … but on the other hand no hurry, also fine in 2030+

6

Great notes, but honestly the writing makes the Cuvee Reservee sound like a better wine than the da Capo, despite the scores. To me a “huge, freakish, incredibly assertive” wine with alcohol poking through sounds worse than a beautifully classic wine that is aging well but keeping great fruit.

What do you mean by calling the da Capo “sharp” (“The longer this is open the sharper it gets.”)? Sharpness in wine is not necessarily a positive quality to me.

7

A better wine for drinking NOW, not in the long run

8

Cool. Sounds like I may not have waited in vain for the Réservée to calm down.

9

Eric,
I know you’ve loved these since release. I always found a roasted quality which for me was appealing, and sold or gave away all of mine. Maybe I should have waited, or maybe they’re just not for me.
Thanks for the data points,
Warren

10

The sharpness was a bit of tannin and alcohol (which one does notice). The Cuvee Reservee is more of what I am used to. The da Capo is almost a bit shocking but ultimately incredibly enjoyable.

11

Cool tribute, Eric. Well done.

This vintage of Pegau never worked for me, but 2000 and 2001 are “wows” and 2004 ain’t too shabby in its own right.

12

2000 is great to drink now, but 2001 will be better in 3-5 years.
2004 is similar to 1994 which is still fine.

13

The Reservee is one of the few CdP from 2003 that survived the complex climatic conditions. I like it. But 2000, 2001 and 2004 is better IMO
It is funny that the 2003 Da Capo, the only wine which ever got more than 100 points by Parker, at the same time was deemed undrinkable by many reviewers. (And Parker characterized as “having got Alzheimers” [wow.gif] )
I am happy to hear the wine was pleasurable